bamachem

yup... ...

followed your buildup as you got your OME suspension, then the Bridgestones, then the TJM, etc. i originally wanted a millenium silver limited and then i was going to add the hood scoop and build it from there. your rig was definitely a blueprint for mine "way back in the day"...

AznSky

.......my regear including parts and labor cost me $800

4.88's plus master install kits 500 shipped
Labor 300 in one weekend. With me just sitting there and watching while they pull the diffs out from my rig

bamachem

that's cheap!

there's a couple of guys here on YT that got their yukons and MIK's from marlin and paid in the $700-800 range just for parts.

$300 to pull the shells and do the swap and then put them back is a smoking deal. i have about 5 hours just in the main swap + another 2 in the initial rear swap to get the ARB'd diff out.

RTdawgs

MotaPsycho

Hi All,
Just a quick question.. I'm not an off-wheeling guru.. but would like some new tires for my runner... what's the widest tire i can get for a 2002 limited 16" without any mods to the suv?

Thanks!!

bamachem

265/75-16 is the largest you'll fit on a stock runner.

bamachem

well, on interstate driving, loaded down w/ a bunch of luggage and the family, pulling the TN hills and going about 73 (corrected) w/ the AC cranking, I got an average of 16.2 MPG for a 618 mile round trip. about 550 of that was on the interstate w/ the rest of it around town. it's not quite as good as it did w/ the SC, but these gears/bearings are also in the breaking-in stage and are still putting off some serious heat. i'm changing the fluid on them this week and hopefully will see an improvement back to about the mid-17's where i was w/ the SC.

as far as "power" goes, it still has to downshift pulling hills, but not nearly as bad as it did w/ the 4.10's. it's obvious on the highway that the SC is no longer helping out, but like i said before, w/ the savings in fuel costs, the savings in future upgrades for the SC, the savings in potential problems due to the SC, and the $ that i got back out of the SC, this setup is MUCH better for my needs. the runner won't see too many more family roadtrips anyway. the wife and i are about to start looking at some used UZJ-100's and some used GX470's.

keisur

Hmm. I only get 15 and under with my setup (4.88's and 285's). I've never been able to get over 16 since I regeared. and pulling a uhaul from SC to TX yielded about 13-14 per gallon.

bamachem

yeah, that's about what brett (dragr1) get's on his SR5, 5-Speed w/ 4.88's and 285's.

i'm also still running the 2-step cooler plugs from the SC. i'm guessing that once the standard NGK's are in and the gears/bearings are broken in good, i'll get somewhere around 17 or so. not bad at all considering the tires i'm running.

Amir904

what would i have to do to get 305/70/16 to fit on my stock 16 wheels? i dont have a lift, just bilsteins.

bamachem

they won't. 285's on stock 16x7's will rub on the upper A-arms and require a lift. 305's would be horrendous.

you need 16"x8"s w/ around 4.0" to 4.5" backspacing and a minimum of 3" lift (usually as 2" suspension and 1" bodylift)

BajaRunner

Yeah I was wondering if I took out the diffs and brought them to a shop they'd charge me less 'cause they didn't have to take them out.

If thats the case, thats what Im gonna do!

I've been looking for some donor thirds but, since I have the e-locker im pretty much outta luck in finding one for a decent price.

Looks like I'll be ordering some gear sets and MIKs .

bamachem

when you do, go thru performance offroad. just PM "PORC" on either pirate or ttora. i got my yukons w/ two master install kits for $501 shipped - killer deal.

you could also buy that 5.29 ARB'd front diff from ravencr for $800 and use the shell, bearings, and ARB locker and then sell the gears on pirate. that way you'd get the front locker to boot! you can get $100 for the 5.29's used and another $150 or so for the front diff in good shape. that would put you at about $800 for the front shell, gears, bearings, ARB & labor - not bad at all.

bamachem

FYI:

I just shipped the rear third and the front diff yesterday at FedEx.

Front Diff = 93# in a Rubbermaid Storage Bin lined w/ some scrap cardboard and the lid screwed down. The bin and cardboard was less than 3#...

Rear Third = 69# in a Rubbermaid Storage Bin lined w/ some scrap cardboard and the lid screwed down. Again, the bin and cardboard was less than 3#...

so, ~90# for a front diff and ~66# for a rear third. These are the weights for OPEN, NON-LOCKED, Factory Thirds. The ARB Diff wieghs more than the OEM diffs, so add at least 5# each for the lockers...

RobT2k

What about with the ATS type A-arms? would I still need the backspacing?

bamachem

well, if you go w/ ats, then you run into other issues like overextending the CV joints on a full droop and then blowing them out. if you want to modify the upper a-arms, then do what steve schaefer did. there should be some good info on his site...

4Peanut

Are you running a 285 spare in the stock location with a trailer hitch? How'd you do it? I would like to carry a 285 spare, especially to OBX this August, and shoulder-pressing it into a 6-1/2" high Yakima basket on top of a 4Runner with 3" of lift may be my only other option.

bamachem

i took the valve stem out so it would flatten out, then i cranked it up in there while sitting on the ground and pressing it up on the panhard bar (to flatten it) while i cranked it up in there. it's not easy, but it works...

4Peanut

Am I understanding correctly that, while it is in the stock location, it is completely deflated? You carry onboard air, don't you?

bamachem

yup... deflated. if i need it, i'll air it up w/ my ARB compressor.