Lewis15498's 1992 Xtra Cab Build-Up Thread
10-13-2011, 08:12 PM
#41
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Day 11: Crossmember Replacement
After cleaning up the tubular crossmember it was obvious that it was rotted so badly, its structural integrity had been completely comprimised. Looking at it made me sick and I couldnt put the truck back together without addressing it. This post will be in a "how to" format, to aide others with this problem.
Materials Used:
1 1/4" Blackened Steel pipe, Has an OD just under 1 3/4" ($23 for 10 ft)
Welding wire ($5-10)
Tools used:
Dremel
Drill with 1 3/4" hole saw
Sawzall with metal blade
Chipping hammer + framing hammer
Not Shown:
Mig Welder
Angle grinder
Before you get overzealous and cut the old crossmember out, take some measurements of the gas tank bracket, so you will know exactly where it needs to be when you reinstall it. Try not to measure from welded edges as they will likely get cut when you are removing it from the old crossmember. This will save you alot of headaches later in the job.
Sawzall the crossmember off near the frame on both sides. You can see after I cut one side, the crossmember snapped just from me leaning on it.
Grind the pipe that goes through the frame down until you have solid metal all the way around. Clearance the inside of the pipe so that the blackened steel pipe will slide inside it. The hole saw proved ineffective, the dremel was helpful, but I found the best method was to use a chipping hammer or chisel, and then striking it with another hammer. An air chisel would probably be easier. Chipping off the scale inside the pipe will likely provide sufficient clearance. If you dont have scale, you probably dont need to replace the crossmember.
Now that the pipe is clearanced its a good idea to treat the rust, as you will not have another chance to do this. I stuffed a sponge saturated in eastwood fast etch and let it sit for an hour or so to attack the rust, then after it dried sprayed it with eastwood internal frame coating. I was very pleased with the results.
Now slide your new pipe through the old pipes going through the frame. If it is a tight fit, feel free to persuade it with a sledge hammer.
Weld your new crossmember into place. Weld all the way around the pipe on both the inside and outside of the frame on both sides. Trim excess pipe off the ends, otherwise you may have clearance issues with the rear tires.
Next cut the gas tank bracket off of the old crossmember. I used a grinder to do this, but it doesn't really matter how you do it, as long as you do not damage the bracket.
Using the measurements you took earlier, determine where the gas tank bracket must be. TACK weld the bracket in place. The welds should hold the bracket sturdy, but can be easily broken off with a few hammer blows. Keep in mind the new pipe is smaller, so try to maintain roughly an 1/8" gap between the bracket and pipe.
Now that the bracket is tacked in place, grab your gas tank and test fit it. Make sure all 6 bolt holes line up at the same time. If your measurements are good, you should be spot on. If not, make adjustments accordingly. Do not skip this step! If you weld the bracket completely then find out your measurements were off, you are going to have a major headache on your hands.
Now that you Have test fitted your gas tank, you can remove the tank and weld the bracket in place. I plan to coat the inside of the pipe with internal frame coating and paint the outside with rust encapsulator. Be sure to strip off the black with acetone before painting. I am heasitant to cap the ends of the pipe, as the old pipe was capped with rubber plugs and rotted from the inside out. If you do not cap the ends be sure to wash the pipe out with a hose from time to time.
After cleaning up the tubular crossmember it was obvious that it was rotted so badly, its structural integrity had been completely comprimised. Looking at it made me sick and I couldnt put the truck back together without addressing it. This post will be in a "how to" format, to aide others with this problem.
Materials Used:
1 1/4" Blackened Steel pipe, Has an OD just under 1 3/4" ($23 for 10 ft)
Welding wire ($5-10)
Tools used:
Dremel
Drill with 1 3/4" hole saw
Sawzall with metal blade
Chipping hammer + framing hammer
Not Shown:
Mig Welder
Angle grinder
Before you get overzealous and cut the old crossmember out, take some measurements of the gas tank bracket, so you will know exactly where it needs to be when you reinstall it. Try not to measure from welded edges as they will likely get cut when you are removing it from the old crossmember. This will save you alot of headaches later in the job.
Sawzall the crossmember off near the frame on both sides. You can see after I cut one side, the crossmember snapped just from me leaning on it.
Grind the pipe that goes through the frame down until you have solid metal all the way around. Clearance the inside of the pipe so that the blackened steel pipe will slide inside it. The hole saw proved ineffective, the dremel was helpful, but I found the best method was to use a chipping hammer or chisel, and then striking it with another hammer. An air chisel would probably be easier. Chipping off the scale inside the pipe will likely provide sufficient clearance. If you dont have scale, you probably dont need to replace the crossmember.
Now that the pipe is clearanced its a good idea to treat the rust, as you will not have another chance to do this. I stuffed a sponge saturated in eastwood fast etch and let it sit for an hour or so to attack the rust, then after it dried sprayed it with eastwood internal frame coating. I was very pleased with the results.
Now slide your new pipe through the old pipes going through the frame. If it is a tight fit, feel free to persuade it with a sledge hammer.
Weld your new crossmember into place. Weld all the way around the pipe on both the inside and outside of the frame on both sides. Trim excess pipe off the ends, otherwise you may have clearance issues with the rear tires.
Next cut the gas tank bracket off of the old crossmember. I used a grinder to do this, but it doesn't really matter how you do it, as long as you do not damage the bracket.
Using the measurements you took earlier, determine where the gas tank bracket must be. TACK weld the bracket in place. The welds should hold the bracket sturdy, but can be easily broken off with a few hammer blows. Keep in mind the new pipe is smaller, so try to maintain roughly an 1/8" gap between the bracket and pipe.
Now that the bracket is tacked in place, grab your gas tank and test fit it. Make sure all 6 bolt holes line up at the same time. If your measurements are good, you should be spot on. If not, make adjustments accordingly. Do not skip this step! If you weld the bracket completely then find out your measurements were off, you are going to have a major headache on your hands.
Now that you Have test fitted your gas tank, you can remove the tank and weld the bracket in place. I plan to coat the inside of the pipe with internal frame coating and paint the outside with rust encapsulator. Be sure to strip off the black with acetone before painting. I am heasitant to cap the ends of the pipe, as the old pipe was capped with rubber plugs and rotted from the inside out. If you do not cap the ends be sure to wash the pipe out with a hose from time to time.
10-17-2011, 07:26 PM
#44
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Thanks guys, I appreciate the kind words!
Day 12: Frame Painting
To prep for paint, I ran over everything again with a wire wheel, then wiped it down with acetone. FUN FACT: Acetone will eat through nitrile gloves! Be sure that your gloves are latex based. I figured this one out the hard way.
Before painting I coated the inside of the frame with Eastwood internal frame coat. I used three cans and was very pleased with the results. Its very messy so I reccomend you do it before painting the outside of the frame.
I laid down the first coat covering the underside of the frame, down the sides about an inch or so, and everything that I would struggle to paint after the frame is flipped over. The second coat I went over everything that was facing up or on the sides. (Essentially everything but the top side of the frame).
I let the paint dry overnight then flipped the frame over, wire wheeled and cleaned the top with acetone. Then painting, the first coat I covered anything that wasnt painted. The second coat I went over the top and sides. The end result was a minimum of 2 coats over everything. Its not perfect, but as good as you can expect to get. I am pleased with the results.
Day 12: Frame Painting
To prep for paint, I ran over everything again with a wire wheel, then wiped it down with acetone. FUN FACT: Acetone will eat through nitrile gloves! Be sure that your gloves are latex based. I figured this one out the hard way.
Before painting I coated the inside of the frame with Eastwood internal frame coat. I used three cans and was very pleased with the results. Its very messy so I reccomend you do it before painting the outside of the frame.
I laid down the first coat covering the underside of the frame, down the sides about an inch or so, and everything that I would struggle to paint after the frame is flipped over. The second coat I went over everything that was facing up or on the sides. (Essentially everything but the top side of the frame).
I let the paint dry overnight then flipped the frame over, wire wheeled and cleaned the top with acetone. Then painting, the first coat I covered anything that wasnt painted. The second coat I went over the top and sides. The end result was a minimum of 2 coats over everything. Its not perfect, but as good as you can expect to get. I am pleased with the results.
10-17-2011, 07:37 PM
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That frame looks great. Not the same frame it was a few post back. I got a chuckle out of learning the hardway. Been down that road a time or two myself.
Good job, It keeps looking better.
Good job, It keeps looking better.
10-18-2011, 09:10 PM
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Thanks Terry! Hopefully I'll at least get the rear axle on this weekend. I'm seriously considering buying a budbuilt crossmember for the truck, but the budget is real tight right now.
10-19-2011, 04:26 AM
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I hear you on the tight budget, I am there myself. One thing about having a tight budget that actually benefits me, is that it makes me get alot of the freebie things done like cleaning or cheap repairs that cost little to nothing.
Nothing like getting a part and not being able to get it put on cause you still have some free prep work to do. It is the least exciting, but there is always something that needs done and when you fianlly get to that stage it goes quick and easy.
Nothing like getting a part and not being able to get it put on cause you still have some free prep work to do. It is the least exciting, but there is always something that needs done and when you fianlly get to that stage it goes quick and easy.
11-28-2011, 08:28 PM
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You guys are overdue for an update. I assure you I haven't given up on the project, just been working hard, and now that the sun ditches me around 4 PM, I haven't been as good about taking progress pics. That said, lets get this show on the road.
Day 13
Stripped down the rear axle and discovered I had a broken leaf spring. Picked up John R leaf springs off ebay. They are are a spring company from the midwest. I had never heard of them but I got them for $103.75 each with free shipping, so I took the risk, we'll see how they do.
Got the axle painted, unfortunately it was a little too cold and the paint didnt set up perfectly, but perfect isnt attainable with the limited resources I have.
About the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator paint, while I really like it, you cannot use it below 65*F, as the eastwood guy told me after the fact. That should have been printed on the label guys!
__________________________________________________ _______________
Day 14
Beautiful day, got some hardcore painting done. Everything I painted except the gas tank set up fairly well. Not the end of the world, I can always replace it, as the tank had some pin holes in the top.
__________________________________________________ _______________
Day 15
Mounted up the rear axle, Steering components and one of the FL wheel/suspension. Forgot to get a pic of the rear axle.
I went with Raybestos professional grade balljoints. While they seem to be high quality, the hardware included is not. They use M16 x 1.50 nylock nuts instead of castle nuts. One of these stripped out on me, and I initially thought it was my fault. Then when mounting the upper balljoints all of the mounting nuts stripped out on me, before reaching the TSRM reccomended 25 lbs/ft.
Rock auto exchanged the balljoint with stripped nylock, as I could not find a M16 x 1.50 anywhere without buying a box of 25 for $80-100. I bought class 8 nuts for the upper control arm mounts, but I was forced to used the Nylock nuts on the balljoint studs, as I had no alternatives. You cannot use a castle nut, as there is no hole drilled for a cotter pin. I didnt want to drill a hole, fearing of weakening the stud, but now that I think about it the part that you would drill doesnt see any real load, so you probably could safely drill it. Food for thought in the Raybestos pro VS moog quality debate.
__________________________________________________ _______________
Day 16
Installed the FR suspension/wheel. The front brakes had siezed up and the wheels would not spin. In addition to this the aluminum rims had siezed to the steel hubs so badly, that if this was a running vehicle, I could have removed all the lug nuts then driven it without loosing a wheel.
I tried numerous methods to remove the wheel. The method that worked was to smash the wheel repeatedly with a 8ft concrete filled lolly column that had to have weighed at least 150 lbs. I think that it worked because the inertia of such a heavy item, is able to strike the wheel and still have some force behind it after the rubber tire deflects. Despite being a big guy, swinging that thing around was quite an exhausting task.
After I got the wheels off, I freed up the brakes, as I really dont have the scratch to replace all the brake components right now. That will be done later Replacing everything including wheel bearings and backing plates from Toyota.
I clearanced the hub hole in the rims and lathered the hub up really good with anti sieze so hopefully I wont have to deal with stuck wheels ever again.
These pictures were taken today, so chronologicly they dont make sense as you can see things I havent done until today.
__________________________________________________ _______________
Day 17 aka today
Plumbed all of the brake lines on the frame. The nicopp (nickel copper alloy, also known as cunnifer) were incredibly easy to work with. While I cant speak for the longevity of it, I would reccomend it to anyone. Really happy with the results of this. Also got the gas tank and fuel lines mounted up.
If you're interested to do everything I needed three 25 ft rolls for this and the brake/clutch lines in the engine bay, so you're looking at about $150 in materials. I did this with a tubing cutter, craftsman flaring kit, and eastwood bending plyers. You can get all 3 of these tools for about $100 total. So you're looking at about $250 for the job, and you will have the tools and some left over tubing for your next job, your lines will never rust, and you probably only spent a quarter of what it would cost to get all the lines from toyota.
Took advantage of the warm day and painted a couple parts, somehow I forgot about the sway bar before, and I had skipped the crossmember because I had plans of replacing it with a budbuilt unit, but its not in the budget now, so I slapped some paint on it for the time being.
Day 13
Stripped down the rear axle and discovered I had a broken leaf spring. Picked up John R leaf springs off ebay. They are are a spring company from the midwest. I had never heard of them but I got them for $103.75 each with free shipping, so I took the risk, we'll see how they do.
Got the axle painted, unfortunately it was a little too cold and the paint didnt set up perfectly, but perfect isnt attainable with the limited resources I have.
About the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator paint, while I really like it, you cannot use it below 65*F, as the eastwood guy told me after the fact. That should have been printed on the label guys!
__________________________________________________ _______________
Day 14
Beautiful day, got some hardcore painting done. Everything I painted except the gas tank set up fairly well. Not the end of the world, I can always replace it, as the tank had some pin holes in the top.
__________________________________________________ _______________
Day 15
Mounted up the rear axle, Steering components and one of the FL wheel/suspension. Forgot to get a pic of the rear axle.
I went with Raybestos professional grade balljoints. While they seem to be high quality, the hardware included is not. They use M16 x 1.50 nylock nuts instead of castle nuts. One of these stripped out on me, and I initially thought it was my fault. Then when mounting the upper balljoints all of the mounting nuts stripped out on me, before reaching the TSRM reccomended 25 lbs/ft.
Rock auto exchanged the balljoint with stripped nylock, as I could not find a M16 x 1.50 anywhere without buying a box of 25 for $80-100. I bought class 8 nuts for the upper control arm mounts, but I was forced to used the Nylock nuts on the balljoint studs, as I had no alternatives. You cannot use a castle nut, as there is no hole drilled for a cotter pin. I didnt want to drill a hole, fearing of weakening the stud, but now that I think about it the part that you would drill doesnt see any real load, so you probably could safely drill it. Food for thought in the Raybestos pro VS moog quality debate.
__________________________________________________ _______________
Day 16
Installed the FR suspension/wheel. The front brakes had siezed up and the wheels would not spin. In addition to this the aluminum rims had siezed to the steel hubs so badly, that if this was a running vehicle, I could have removed all the lug nuts then driven it without loosing a wheel.
I tried numerous methods to remove the wheel. The method that worked was to smash the wheel repeatedly with a 8ft concrete filled lolly column that had to have weighed at least 150 lbs. I think that it worked because the inertia of such a heavy item, is able to strike the wheel and still have some force behind it after the rubber tire deflects. Despite being a big guy, swinging that thing around was quite an exhausting task.
After I got the wheels off, I freed up the brakes, as I really dont have the scratch to replace all the brake components right now. That will be done later Replacing everything including wheel bearings and backing plates from Toyota.
I clearanced the hub hole in the rims and lathered the hub up really good with anti sieze so hopefully I wont have to deal with stuck wheels ever again.
These pictures were taken today, so chronologicly they dont make sense as you can see things I havent done until today.
__________________________________________________ _______________
Day 17 aka today
Plumbed all of the brake lines on the frame. The nicopp (nickel copper alloy, also known as cunnifer) were incredibly easy to work with. While I cant speak for the longevity of it, I would reccomend it to anyone. Really happy with the results of this. Also got the gas tank and fuel lines mounted up.
If you're interested to do everything I needed three 25 ft rolls for this and the brake/clutch lines in the engine bay, so you're looking at about $150 in materials. I did this with a tubing cutter, craftsman flaring kit, and eastwood bending plyers. You can get all 3 of these tools for about $100 total. So you're looking at about $250 for the job, and you will have the tools and some left over tubing for your next job, your lines will never rust, and you probably only spent a quarter of what it would cost to get all the lines from toyota.
Took advantage of the warm day and painted a couple parts, somehow I forgot about the sway bar before, and I had skipped the crossmember because I had plans of replacing it with a budbuilt unit, but its not in the budget now, so I slapped some paint on it for the time being.
Last edited by Lewis15498; 11-28-2011 at 08:33 PM.
11-29-2011, 01:50 AM
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I have been meaning to send you a PM and see if you were still alive and kicking. Truck frame looks great. You have done great work on your frames. Your brake lines look great.
On the pinholes on your gas tank. Red Kote will seal them up. Dont know what finding a tank in your area is like. Down here, they are not to easily found. I have a write up on both of my builds about the gas tank. I think the 88 build is a little better explaining it and with materials, it is around $60.
Your build is looking great. Keep up the great work.
On the pinholes on your gas tank. Red Kote will seal them up. Dont know what finding a tank in your area is like. Down here, they are not to easily found. I have a write up on both of my builds about the gas tank. I think the 88 build is a little better explaining it and with materials, it is around $60.
Your build is looking great. Keep up the great work.
11-29-2011, 06:25 AM
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I have been meaning to send you a PM and see if you were still alive and kicking. Truck frame looks great. You have done great work on your frames. Your brake lines look great.
On the pinholes on your gas tank. Red Kote will seal them up. Dont know what finding a tank in your area is like. Down here, they are not to easily found. I have a write up on both of my builds about the gas tank. I think the 88 build is a little better explaining it and with materials, it is around $60.
Your build is looking great. Keep up the great work.
On the pinholes on your gas tank. Red Kote will seal them up. Dont know what finding a tank in your area is like. Down here, they are not to easily found. I have a write up on both of my builds about the gas tank. I think the 88 build is a little better explaining it and with materials, it is around $60.
Your build is looking great. Keep up the great work.
The rust encapsulator paint supposedly can plug the pinholes, and they are on the top of the tank so I'm not too concerned about it at this point. I can find a new tank on the internet for $100-150, so if becomes an issue I will just grab a new one.
Its gonna come back off in the spring anyways as I need to fab up a new skid plate for the gas tank. Mine was rotted beond repair and I refuse to pay toyota $460 for a stamped piece of metal.
12-04-2011, 06:38 PM
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Day 18
Getting the engine ready to install I dropped the front sump pan and installed the 3VZ pan. Ive seen others drill out the plug for the mid sump dipstick, but a new union was only like $6 from toyota. I drove the old plug out with a 1/4" extension from my socket set, it was the perfect size.
Plugging up the hole in the oil pump for the front dipstick was not as easy. I bought a plug like the one in the mid sump hole, but it didnt fit so I ended up just tapping threads into the hole. I got a bolt to fit in the hole and covered it in FIPG. Hopefully it wont leak, I dont see any reason it would.
Installed the new flywheel. The flywheel bolts are one time use according to the TSRM so, new bolts were in order. Torqued them to spec. I'm all about using creative methods to avoid buying expensive tools, but I strongly advise anyone who does this type of work to buy a torque wrench.
Also I changed the oil seal and pilot bearing prior to this, but dont have any pics. Rented a blind hole puller which is a really cool tool.
Cleaned the sticky rust preventative gunk off the flywheel. Also cleaned the contact surface of the pressure plate. Installed the clutch.
Tapped out the holes in the block. This would have been easier to do prior to installing the clutch/flywheel.
The thead in the bolt holes on the right side of the block for the stiffener plate were non-existent. Either the 4runner didnt use them. or someone took it off. Could only find m10x1.5 helicoil so now they are 1.5 pitch instead of 1.25.
Finally got the engine/trans back on the frame. Stupid easy to do without a cab in the way.
Getting the engine ready to install I dropped the front sump pan and installed the 3VZ pan. Ive seen others drill out the plug for the mid sump dipstick, but a new union was only like $6 from toyota. I drove the old plug out with a 1/4" extension from my socket set, it was the perfect size.
Plugging up the hole in the oil pump for the front dipstick was not as easy. I bought a plug like the one in the mid sump hole, but it didnt fit so I ended up just tapping threads into the hole. I got a bolt to fit in the hole and covered it in FIPG. Hopefully it wont leak, I dont see any reason it would.
Installed the new flywheel. The flywheel bolts are one time use according to the TSRM so, new bolts were in order. Torqued them to spec. I'm all about using creative methods to avoid buying expensive tools, but I strongly advise anyone who does this type of work to buy a torque wrench.
Also I changed the oil seal and pilot bearing prior to this, but dont have any pics. Rented a blind hole puller which is a really cool tool.
Cleaned the sticky rust preventative gunk off the flywheel. Also cleaned the contact surface of the pressure plate. Installed the clutch.
Tapped out the holes in the block. This would have been easier to do prior to installing the clutch/flywheel.
The thead in the bolt holes on the right side of the block for the stiffener plate were non-existent. Either the 4runner didnt use them. or someone took it off. Could only find m10x1.5 helicoil so now they are 1.5 pitch instead of 1.25.
Finally got the engine/trans back on the frame. Stupid easy to do without a cab in the way.
12-07-2011, 02:03 AM
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You got it looking as if it came that way. Really looking good. Bet it is nice having the body off for this engine swap. Probably the best way to go when swapping motors. Great job. Looking good.
12-07-2011, 06:44 AM
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Thanks Terry, your comments are always appreciated!
So obviously I want this thing to run like a boss when I start it up so I ordered a set of remanufactured injectors for it. I'm a little worried about the new injectors getting contaminated by anything in the fuel rail and fuel flex hose which had been sitting left open when I bought the engine.
Im thinking about taking the fuel hose and rails, and flushing them with solvent as best I can. Then I will connect them to the fuel system, set them in a clean bucket and run gas through them to flush everything out. Hopefully this will prevent any contamination issues that could clog an injector.
If anyone has other ideas as how to accomplish this I would love to hear them.
So obviously I want this thing to run like a boss when I start it up so I ordered a set of remanufactured injectors for it. I'm a little worried about the new injectors getting contaminated by anything in the fuel rail and fuel flex hose which had been sitting left open when I bought the engine.
Im thinking about taking the fuel hose and rails, and flushing them with solvent as best I can. Then I will connect them to the fuel system, set them in a clean bucket and run gas through them to flush everything out. Hopefully this will prevent any contamination issues that could clog an injector.
If anyone has other ideas as how to accomplish this I would love to hear them.
12-10-2011, 04:33 AM
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I used a turkey baster to fill the lines. I ran some diesel into some lines and let it sit and then blew out with an airhose. About the only solvent I know of to eat up the varnish.
High tech. huh???lol..
High tech. huh???lol..
12-14-2011, 06:45 PM
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Auto to manual conversion
Lol Terry, it doesn't have to be fancy to do the job.
DAY 19: Auto To manual conversion
So I have been running on the assumption that the holes for the clutch slave cylinder were on the firewall. I discovered that that was not the case, as the auto and manual trucks have different cabs. Seems crazy that Toyota actually has 4 different types of cabs instead of having 2 types and utilizing block off plates.
Regardless it was obvious that I needed to drill some holes. As far as I'm concerned I had one shot to get this right. And due to the tight space it wasnt practical to try and drill from the inside. This left me with no idea exactly where to drill. Instead of playing guess and fret I threw on my fabricating helmet and got to work.
* The holes on the left of the mount the bracket through the 2 drivers side brake booster studs. The right side is your drilling template. The 2 holes in the connecting (middle) piece are unused (just using up old stock).
HOW TO SECTION:
To make this you will need a welder, 1/8" flat stock, a 5/16" drill bit and a 1 1/4" hole saw, drill (obviously), sawzall, angle grinder and a dremel or other handheld grinder.
First cut 2 strips of stock and weld them together to make the template plate. Using the hole saw cut a hole in it. Position the hole so the two mounting holes for the clutch master will also be on the plate. Clear any sharp edges in the hole with the dremel. Now the clutch master should fit thru the hole with a little clearance. Center it, and clamp it with vice grips exc. Using the 5/16" drill drill right thru the master cyl mounting hole. Throw a nut and bolt thru the new hole, then remove the vice grip so you can drill the other side. Drill the other side then clean up any cut edges and grind welds flush with grinder. Now you have your clutch master template plate.
Bolt the template to the clutch master studs on your new pedal set. You may need to grind off excess material for it to fit properly. Tighten the nuts to secure it in place.
Cut another strip and drill two 5/16" holes in it that will line up with the drivers side studs on the brake booster. You need to be really precise here, and may have to clearance the holes a little with the dremel to get it to fit on the studs. Now bolt this to the pedal set. You can use nut and bolt but I just bolted it to the pedal set with the brake booster since the booster has to come off anyways.
Now with both pieces bolted down. Cut and weld a connecting brace between the two of them. Weld it so that it is true to the brake booster side. Then cut 2 little pieces and place and weld them to bring the connecting strip down to the drill template. try to position them so they wont be in the way of you drilling.
Unbolt everything and you should have something similar to what is pictured above. The brake booster plate is not on the same plane as your drill template. DO NOT BEND ANYTHING as it will screw up the positioning of your template. With the bracket off you can re-weld anything that you could only tack weld when it was bolted up. When you're finished welding grind all the welds on the brake booster side flush or the bracket will not sit right against the firewall/brake booster.
Slide your bracket onto the brake booster studs and bolt your booster to the firewall. Try to center the studs in the holes on the firewall. You now have a template showing you exactly where to drill. Double check everything and then drill away. Use the dremel to deburr your new holes and you should be ready to bolt up, I did a little cleaning first. HINT: Before drilling the 1 1/4" hole take the drill bit out of the middle of the hole saw.
Welded a couple braces on the pedal set before bolting it up to the truck. Not pretty, but hope it will help keep it from cracking. When you bolt the pedal set up DO NOT forget to get a M8 x 1.25 bolt to bolt the clutch pedal tower to the dash brace. There is a threaded hole there just like the one you unbolted for your AT brake pedal. If you forget this you will have clutch pedal issues!
All installed...
DAY 19: Auto To manual conversion
So I have been running on the assumption that the holes for the clutch slave cylinder were on the firewall. I discovered that that was not the case, as the auto and manual trucks have different cabs. Seems crazy that Toyota actually has 4 different types of cabs instead of having 2 types and utilizing block off plates.
Regardless it was obvious that I needed to drill some holes. As far as I'm concerned I had one shot to get this right. And due to the tight space it wasnt practical to try and drill from the inside. This left me with no idea exactly where to drill. Instead of playing guess and fret I threw on my fabricating helmet and got to work.
* The holes on the left of the mount the bracket through the 2 drivers side brake booster studs. The right side is your drilling template. The 2 holes in the connecting (middle) piece are unused (just using up old stock).
HOW TO SECTION:
To make this you will need a welder, 1/8" flat stock, a 5/16" drill bit and a 1 1/4" hole saw, drill (obviously), sawzall, angle grinder and a dremel or other handheld grinder.
First cut 2 strips of stock and weld them together to make the template plate. Using the hole saw cut a hole in it. Position the hole so the two mounting holes for the clutch master will also be on the plate. Clear any sharp edges in the hole with the dremel. Now the clutch master should fit thru the hole with a little clearance. Center it, and clamp it with vice grips exc. Using the 5/16" drill drill right thru the master cyl mounting hole. Throw a nut and bolt thru the new hole, then remove the vice grip so you can drill the other side. Drill the other side then clean up any cut edges and grind welds flush with grinder. Now you have your clutch master template plate.
Bolt the template to the clutch master studs on your new pedal set. You may need to grind off excess material for it to fit properly. Tighten the nuts to secure it in place.
Cut another strip and drill two 5/16" holes in it that will line up with the drivers side studs on the brake booster. You need to be really precise here, and may have to clearance the holes a little with the dremel to get it to fit on the studs. Now bolt this to the pedal set. You can use nut and bolt but I just bolted it to the pedal set with the brake booster since the booster has to come off anyways.
Now with both pieces bolted down. Cut and weld a connecting brace between the two of them. Weld it so that it is true to the brake booster side. Then cut 2 little pieces and place and weld them to bring the connecting strip down to the drill template. try to position them so they wont be in the way of you drilling.
Unbolt everything and you should have something similar to what is pictured above. The brake booster plate is not on the same plane as your drill template. DO NOT BEND ANYTHING as it will screw up the positioning of your template. With the bracket off you can re-weld anything that you could only tack weld when it was bolted up. When you're finished welding grind all the welds on the brake booster side flush or the bracket will not sit right against the firewall/brake booster.
Slide your bracket onto the brake booster studs and bolt your booster to the firewall. Try to center the studs in the holes on the firewall. You now have a template showing you exactly where to drill. Double check everything and then drill away. Use the dremel to deburr your new holes and you should be ready to bolt up, I did a little cleaning first. HINT: Before drilling the 1 1/4" hole take the drill bit out of the middle of the hole saw.
Welded a couple braces on the pedal set before bolting it up to the truck. Not pretty, but hope it will help keep it from cracking. When you bolt the pedal set up DO NOT forget to get a M8 x 1.25 bolt to bolt the clutch pedal tower to the dash brace. There is a threaded hole there just like the one you unbolted for your AT brake pedal. If you forget this you will have clutch pedal issues!
All installed...
Last edited by Lewis15498; 12-14-2011 at 06:47 PM.
12-19-2011, 12:11 AM
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You do an outstanding job on your write ups and pics. I try to do my write ups like yours and they just dont turn out as good.
Glad to see you are making some great progress.
Glad to see you are making some great progress.
01-05-2012, 06:34 PM
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Thanks for the compliments guys, they are always appreciated. Sorry I haven't posted any progress lately, that is because there hasn't been any. Things have been crazy lately.
On the plus side I finished college and now have a BS in management with an accounting and finance minor. My girlfriend also got me a new macbook pro for Christmas so posting will be a breeze when I finally have some progress worth posting again.
On the downside, I wrecked my 92 Accord daily driver on a granite curb avoiding some asshole driver who must have thought he was supposed to center his car over a double yellow line. Car was totaled, the accident bent the front of the unibody down, and wrecked the entire front subframe, junked 2 rims and tires, as well as (presumed) minor suspension damage to the rear.
I don't have full coverage or a lot of cash so my only option was to fix it. Got the front end pulled out, and replaced the subframe beams along with everything else bent and got it back on the road and it had a scary loud clunk under brake. Come to find out I bent the brake rotor. So I got new rotors, pads and wheel bearings in today. Upper control arms with fresh balljoints should be in tomorrow. Picked up a set of rims from a 95 accord with snow tires so I can ditch the curb eaten rims. After I finish the front end I need to figure out what bent in the rear (rear wheel is toed out). Hopefully it will be back in action within a week, then I can get back to the yota.
On the plus side I finished college and now have a BS in management with an accounting and finance minor. My girlfriend also got me a new macbook pro for Christmas so posting will be a breeze when I finally have some progress worth posting again.
On the downside, I wrecked my 92 Accord daily driver on a granite curb avoiding some asshole driver who must have thought he was supposed to center his car over a double yellow line. Car was totaled, the accident bent the front of the unibody down, and wrecked the entire front subframe, junked 2 rims and tires, as well as (presumed) minor suspension damage to the rear.
I don't have full coverage or a lot of cash so my only option was to fix it. Got the front end pulled out, and replaced the subframe beams along with everything else bent and got it back on the road and it had a scary loud clunk under brake. Come to find out I bent the brake rotor. So I got new rotors, pads and wheel bearings in today. Upper control arms with fresh balljoints should be in tomorrow. Picked up a set of rims from a 95 accord with snow tires so I can ditch the curb eaten rims. After I finish the front end I need to figure out what bent in the rear (rear wheel is toed out). Hopefully it will be back in action within a week, then I can get back to the yota.
Last edited by Lewis15498; 01-05-2012 at 06:36 PM.
01-05-2012, 07:46 PM
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Sorry to hear about the crash. Glad you are ok and able to fix your Honda. Congrats on your BS. School and life is hard to do but once yo are in the field you want to be doing, it makes life so much easier.
Congrats again!!
Congrats again!!
03-27-2012, 09:34 PM
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Hello friends, sorry for the lack of updates. I have cut up and welded my exhaust crossover and completed most of the wiring. I don't have any pictures at the moment either. Hopefully I can get this thing going soon.
In other news I just retuned from London for a final interview with a global automotive electronics remanufacturing company. I'm incredibly excited about the opportunity and can't wait to start a new career in a field I love. Hopefully it all works out in my favor but I suppose time will tell. Regardless it was my first time leaving the states and I had a great time in the UK.
In other news I just retuned from London for a final interview with a global automotive electronics remanufacturing company. I'm incredibly excited about the opportunity and can't wait to start a new career in a field I love. Hopefully it all works out in my favor but I suppose time will tell. Regardless it was my first time leaving the states and I had a great time in the UK.
