John4wd's 1993 DLX Pickup Build-Up Thread
09-22-2011, 08:04 PM
#41
Registered User
Thread Starter
I did POR15 panting today and put on new 22R-E valve cover sticker, looks sweet!!!!
below battery tray it had paint rubed off since there was no plastic battery tray and no hold down bar and hold down j-bolt so the battery rubbed somepaint off and where the air box was at there was surface rust under it and the side where water was coming up through hole from missing air box mounting bolts and from the plastic gromit for wire harness splashing in the front fender wheel well. Here are the pics...
I'll update tomorrow night...
Ps. The felpro distributor shaft seal is crap, go get an oem one you'll thank me :}LOL
I also got some better tow hooks from a 4-Runner...
below battery tray it had paint rubed off since there was no plastic battery tray and no hold down bar and hold down j-bolt so the battery rubbed somepaint off and where the air box was at there was surface rust under it and the side where water was coming up through hole from missing air box mounting bolts and from the plastic gromit for wire harness splashing in the front fender wheel well. Here are the pics...
I'll update tomorrow night...
Ps. The felpro distributor shaft seal is crap, go get an oem one you'll thank me :}LOL
I also got some better tow hooks from a 4-Runner...
Last edited by john4wd; 09-26-2011 at 08:50 PM.
09-23-2011, 10:33 PM
#42
Registered User
Thread Starter
Here are pics on what I did today, ran into a broken bolt reinstalling filter box and had to take time to try and get bolt out up to and including drilling it out and while using a cold chisel to get it out the welded on nut broke off so that bites, painted some Por15 on inside and outside hole and used same tyle bolt and a large washer attached to a nut and it's good to go for another 18 years. Put in battery and it's wrong size and about the time to be replaced due to it's old.
Tighten crank bolt to spec. put oil and lucas zink break-in additive and will change in 500 to 1000 miles and do valve adjustment and check head bolt torque and then using Rotella 6 and the taller Toyota 3 oil filter from then on...changed tranny gear oil, and put in new oem air filter and also doing oem plugs, cap, rotor and wires too...
Tighten crank bolt to spec. put oil and lucas zink break-in additive and will change in 500 to 1000 miles and do valve adjustment and check head bolt torque and then using Rotella 6 and the taller Toyota 3 oil filter from then on...changed tranny gear oil, and put in new oem air filter and also doing oem plugs, cap, rotor and wires too...
09-23-2011, 10:36 PM
#43
Registered User
Thread Starter
My 93 came with an air box where the inlet was behind the headlight using a plastic piece with a hole in it, One of the mounting tabs on old box is broken off and one corner has a big area broken, so I got a new air box when I bought a used MAFM from bottom of air box to the TB inlet and I just noticed it's different even though the 2wd was a 92 and it also a 22RE and the 92 inlet is beside the radiator behind grille and use the same hole as the carberated inlet goes and brings in air from the outside unlike the old box which the intake tube went behind headlight...I'm not doing mudding or deep water crossings, just back country and the Badlands in Attica Indiana offroading, so having an opening in the front grille no need to worry about sucking in water.
I'm not interested in a K&N system or equivalent just yet, maybe later...
Below are the pics of each system...
Old area where air is gotten...
The whole old air box assembly...
The opening the new box will use...
The whole new air box assembly...
The old system looks restricted, I had an 87 22R carbed truck that used the hole beside radiator and behind grille.
I'm not interested in a K&N system or equivalent just yet, maybe later...
Below are the pics of each system...
Old area where air is gotten...
The whole old air box assembly...
The opening the new box will use...
The whole new air box assembly...
The old system looks restricted, I had an 87 22R carbed truck that used the hole beside radiator and behind grille.
09-23-2011, 10:59 PM
#44
Registered User
Thread Starter
Update on air box, went to mount the base on it today after putting putting on Rad. over flow tank/bottle and it covers the hole where the new box inlet tube goes and that's the same hole that the older carbed toy trucks use, so I know there are not as wide over flow tank/bottle so not to cover the hole and then I can use the tube to box inlet and I went on ebay and ordered a used one so I can attach the tube to that hole beside the radiator. Here below are the pics showing the differences in 2 different over flow tank/bottle. I'm falling asleep so If I think of anything else I'll do it tomorrow, nightie night all!!!!
Shows old tank/bottle attached and covering the hole. Arrows showing the hole and also how much wider old one is...
Shows how much larger than it needs to be for my air box past the fill up cap
Here is the new one I just ordered off ebay, see how it's not as wide as the old one, see the longer extended area past fill hole in that so call kick-out the old one has, the new one doesn't have that. It'll work perfect :}
Shows old tank/bottle attached and covering the hole. Arrows showing the hole and also how much wider old one is...
Shows how much larger than it needs to be for my air box past the fill up cap
Here is the new one I just ordered off ebay, see how it's not as wide as the old one, see the longer extended area past fill hole in that so call kick-out the old one has, the new one doesn't have that. It'll work perfect :}
Last edited by john4wd; 09-24-2011 at 06:25 AM.
09-26-2011, 08:02 PM
#47
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks Chef for visiting, much appriciated, was about to do the re-start today after getting there with a new battery from advance auto and got called away to take uncle to his doc appointment, he had heart bypass 2 weeks ago. By the time I got back it was only an hour from dark so I went to Subway and went home to watch MNF, he doesn't have an apointment tomorrow so won't be interupted and I will have all day to get it done and take it for Ted sugested brisk drive, can't wait :} Thanks for visiting!
Last edited by john4wd; 09-26-2011 at 09:17 PM.
09-26-2011, 08:16 PM
#48
Registered User
Thread Starter
rjz5400 great questions, the bracket is what hold the fuel filter to side of motor, there are no new lines there the factory lines but just re-routed to where I mounted the Fuel filter, if you do the re-location like I did, get new fuel filter and get the oem gaskets from your local dealer for the mounting to the fuel rail, the new fuel filter should come with 4 brass gaskets for either end for mounting the lines, If you need more pics let me know I'll be glad to post some more. You don't need to do the risers like I did, but my truck has AC and there is a line I wanted to get further above, plus it looks cool also...Changing the fuel filter is 1000 time easier in it's new home/location :}
If you do it post some pics on my thread I want to see it...
Ps. see the wire on the left side of the fuel filter, the lower end of the fuel filter bracket slips under it. The bracket has not been alter/cut.
If you do it post some pics on my thread I want to see it...
Ps. see the wire on the left side of the fuel filter, the lower end of the fuel filter bracket slips under it. The bracket has not been alter/cut.
09-27-2011, 05:49 AM
#49
Registered User
ok sounds pretty self explanatory, remove lines, remove filter from bracket, unbolt bracket from block, attach bracket to fenderwell (w-wo/ risers) bolt fuel filter to bracket, route the supply lines to avoid kinks and not block anything, bolt up, (prime?) done.....
i will post pics but it has rainy everyday since i took out the injectors, sucks cause i would be riding my moped everywhere but who wants to arrive soaked??
i will post pics but it has rainy everyday since i took out the injectors, sucks cause i would be riding my moped everywhere but who wants to arrive soaked??
09-27-2011, 10:14 PM
#51
Registered User
Thread Starter
Engine RPM's going up then down, then up and down by itself
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As title states the engine RPM's going up then down, then up and down, then up and down by itself over and over and over & me touching nothing.
I started truck to set timing and it started right off and ran and when it was warm I use a jumper between TE1 and E1 to bypass ECM timing advance and got it all set and took out the jumper and it started to do the RPM's going up then down, then up and down by itself over and over till I turned off engine, I waited till it cooled down and restarted engine and right off and it did the up and down RPM's over and over. What did I do? Did I short out something to do with making the RPM's surging like it's doing?
I did not touch anything else beside what's needed to do timing, the jumper & moving dist. to get timing adjusted & hooking up timing light and removing timing light power lines to new battery and attaching inductive pick-up around the #1 spark plug wire.
Help please! And what did I F-up this time?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
As title states the engine RPM's going up then down, then up and down, then up and down by itself over and over and over & me touching nothing.
I started truck to set timing and it started right off and ran and when it was warm I use a jumper between TE1 and E1 to bypass ECM timing advance and got it all set and took out the jumper and it started to do the RPM's going up then down, then up and down by itself over and over till I turned off engine, I waited till it cooled down and restarted engine and right off and it did the up and down RPM's over and over. What did I do? Did I short out something to do with making the RPM's surging like it's doing?
I did not touch anything else beside what's needed to do timing, the jumper & moving dist. to get timing adjusted & hooking up timing light and removing timing light power lines to new battery and attaching inductive pick-up around the #1 spark plug wire.
Help please! And what did I F-up this time?
09-27-2011, 10:58 PM
#52
Chill homie! lol.... Jk, I know, this kinda thing is NERVE RACKING!!! 
Most common fluctuation of Idle like that is usually between either the TPS or the Coolant Temp Sensor. (I think the Idle Air Control Valve can do that as well, but it's more a 'stuck on high idle' type thing... ).
What is far less known(from what I've seen) is that you've got a "Injector Cut" system tied to your brake pedal/light. SOMETIMES, that switch can go bad/get depressed and stick or even go screwy at the ECU for some reason, where it's controlled. This is there so that, when you brake while over 1000rpm, the ECU will cut the power to the injectors, in a pulse like way(it does it every 2 seconds or so, right?).... I think this can also happen through the Coolant Temp Sensor when it goes bad, doing the same thing, but having nothing to do with a faulty brake switch.
The TPS..... I think when it has something to do with this type of fluctuation it's usually related to a problem in the TPS between E2 and IDL ???? Can't recall at this time of night without the book in front of me! hahaha. Someone will chime in, most likely before I can verify some of this... But start by checking the resistance on the coolant temp sensor... Maybe the TPS?(did you remove it during rebuild? Or just leave it attached to the throttle body as is?) I'm not sure, but the "brake light" test I did was through the ECU connectors... It directed me to put the Multi-meter into the proper pins(bk/e2?) and press the brake and take the reading.... not sure if it was running, etc., can't remember, again, ....just too tired! hahaha.
Don't freak out just yet, John...this is a fairly common yet annoying gremlin, ok?
PS> I THINK I've heard of a couple people having this situation due to a vacuum leak(un-metered air after the AFM)
PSS> I would bet it's either the IACV or TPS.... What you do to test the IACV is pinch off the big hose in front of it, completely, and see if it persists? (BE CAREFUL! If the IACV front vacuum hose, the large one, is hard as a rock... DO NOT try to squeeze it to cut off the air..... If you do, you could break loose a bunch of brittle hardened vacuum hose that would fly into the intake, etc., etc., ...yes, IT'S NOT ideal! lol.) If you can reach it's connector and unplug it in the front, then plug it up on both sides, you might get the same result.(You want to stop it from being able to pull in air from the throttle body/plenum, ya know? Take a look at it, you'll see)
PSSS> hahahaha.... Actually, ... Something worth mentioning... "Something as simple as low coolant or air bubbles trapped in the system can cause this fluctuating idle... I would think, since you didn't have any issues with Coolant Temp or Idle up(right?) or TPS before(unless you removed the latter), ...then it could just be since you've refilled the coolant, ..you need to get it on a STEEP hill with the front end up, then add some, run it, and let the air find it's way up and out of the cap. Can even rock up and down on it while it's on the hill, .... as well as before. Keep doing it and see how much air you get out of the system, ... it's FREE AND IT'S VERY LABOR MINIMAL! lol.
Most common fluctuation of Idle like that is usually between either the TPS or the Coolant Temp Sensor. (I think the Idle Air Control Valve can do that as well, but it's more a 'stuck on high idle' type thing... ).
What is far less known(from what I've seen) is that you've got a "Injector Cut" system tied to your brake pedal/light. SOMETIMES, that switch can go bad/get depressed and stick or even go screwy at the ECU for some reason, where it's controlled. This is there so that, when you brake while over 1000rpm, the ECU will cut the power to the injectors, in a pulse like way(it does it every 2 seconds or so, right?).... I think this can also happen through the Coolant Temp Sensor when it goes bad, doing the same thing, but having nothing to do with a faulty brake switch.
The TPS..... I think when it has something to do with this type of fluctuation it's usually related to a problem in the TPS between E2 and IDL ???? Can't recall at this time of night without the book in front of me! hahaha. Someone will chime in, most likely before I can verify some of this... But start by checking the resistance on the coolant temp sensor... Maybe the TPS?(did you remove it during rebuild? Or just leave it attached to the throttle body as is?) I'm not sure, but the "brake light" test I did was through the ECU connectors... It directed me to put the Multi-meter into the proper pins(bk/e2?) and press the brake and take the reading.... not sure if it was running, etc., can't remember, again, ....just too tired! hahaha.
Don't freak out just yet, John...this is a fairly common yet annoying gremlin, ok?
PS> I THINK I've heard of a couple people having this situation due to a vacuum leak(un-metered air after the AFM)
PSS> I would bet it's either the IACV or TPS.... What you do to test the IACV is pinch off the big hose in front of it, completely, and see if it persists? (BE CAREFUL! If the IACV front vacuum hose, the large one, is hard as a rock... DO NOT try to squeeze it to cut off the air..... If you do, you could break loose a bunch of brittle hardened vacuum hose that would fly into the intake, etc., etc., ...yes, IT'S NOT ideal! lol.) If you can reach it's connector and unplug it in the front, then plug it up on both sides, you might get the same result.(You want to stop it from being able to pull in air from the throttle body/plenum, ya know? Take a look at it, you'll see)
PSSS> hahahaha.... Actually, ... Something worth mentioning... "Something as simple as low coolant or air bubbles trapped in the system can cause this fluctuating idle... I would think, since you didn't have any issues with Coolant Temp or Idle up(right?) or TPS before(unless you removed the latter), ...then it could just be since you've refilled the coolant, ..you need to get it on a STEEP hill with the front end up, then add some, run it, and let the air find it's way up and out of the cap. Can even rock up and down on it while it's on the hill, .... as well as before. Keep doing it and see how much air you get out of the system, ... it's FREE AND IT'S VERY LABOR MINIMAL! lol.
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 09-27-2011 at 11:36 PM.
09-28-2011, 08:12 AM
#53
Registered User
Thread Starter
Damn gremlins, yea very nerve racking chef, after all my careful work, I swear I didn't touch anything, didn't even touch the brake pedal or clutch pedal, used cluch start cancel button and didn't touch acelerator, just turned the key it started right up did the timing and pulled out the jumper and bam there went the whole up and down of the idle surging over and over till I turned off motor and it did it again when I restarted the engine after it cooled down...The TB sat on table the whole time engine was being done and wasn't touched till it went back on, I did add water before I started it the other day on the other mishap with the sputtering but I got it to idle smoothly and turned it off and went home and next day added more water and when it was surging the radiator cap was off and you can see the water also surging and the RPM's did, so we know water is flowing, today I'll remove water temp sensor and see if water comes out, I know it works it's showing temp on the guage. temp sensor is around 20 bucks, a new TPS is almost 200 bucks, If the brake switch was bad wouldn't the brake lights not work also if they both use same switch? Oh back to the day when everything was easy to work on!!!! :}LOL
Last edited by john4wd; 09-28-2011 at 08:21 AM.
09-28-2011, 10:04 AM
#54
NOOOOOO, ....(not being rude, just trying to stop ya....lol)....
The "Coolant Sensor" that just relays to the gauge is not the one I am speaking of... I'm actually speaking of the "Coolant Temp Sensor", which is right next to the Cold Start Injector Time Switch.... It in NO WAY has anything to do with the gauge temp reading. Rather, it senses coolant temp and has a lot to do with going into closed loop. When it goes bad, it CAN cause surging idle issues, but it's less frequently the culprit, because it has to be 2-3 things going wacky in unison, I believe.
Far as the Brake light Signal Switch that shuts off the injectors intermittently? >>> Makes NO difference if you've touched the brakes, etc. Could just simply be coincidence and then, as I mentioned in the previous paragraph, "A combination of things going wacky", ... but more like scenario usually being that the switch just went bad. CHECK the brake lights and pull back on the pedal, etc. But to really diagnose this switch you have to test it(I believe at the ECU, ...not sure there's another test.... Probably is, but I don't know of it)
Far as the coolant..... I hear ya, you added coolant, .... but that's not what I'm suggesting... Getting it on a hill brings gravity into the picture and forces the air to find it's way out. You can even jack up the front end with blocks behind the rear wheels, HIGH as you can, .....and then run it, get on a ladder and have the top off. See, you're not as worried, at this point, about "having enough coolant in there" as you are 'GETTING THE AIR OUT OF THE SYSTEM', ...ya feel me? Air pockets can wreak HAVOC, John. Being a lil low on coolant? .....NOT SO MUCH, lol. But YES, definitely wanna keep it topped off(WITHIN REASON).... Also, keep the overflow full when 'BURPING' the system....... Then sqeeze the hoses(wear gloves if they're scalding), as it assists in 'PULLING' or 'PUSHING' coolant into areas where there might be air, ya know?
Near the end here..... I want to AGAIN mention the IACV ..... THIS INDEED can cause issues with erratic idle. I explained above how it works, how to test it, etc. In fact, everything I've mentioned so far involves 'FREE' methods of 'TESTING', not removing or swapping out, etc. Nope, I recommend, as I've learned the hard way, to, "stay with a 'Process Of Elimination', and therein that POE, keep records of each thing you test, then rule it out, starting with the simplest thing first(Burping the system and diagnosing possible issues with the IACV in your case)... Do NOT break from the plan of attack when testing these things in a POE, because then you just get confused(well.... I DID! hahaha)" ....
Finally, ..... TPS-TESTING is free, homie! lol. I hear ya, it's a concern that you might have got it wet or something, then the cost of it, FHEWWWWWW, ... I feel ya, for sure! But you can test it for free.
Do you need any info on these things, John? Please feel free to ask, ok? I have some pretty good links and write ups myself, ya know? But, for the most part, all of this stuff is written up in even the Haynes, .... and ESPECIALLY in the FSM.... gotta love that book when you get used to navigating 1490 PAGES! hahaha.
The "Coolant Sensor" that just relays to the gauge is not the one I am speaking of... I'm actually speaking of the "Coolant Temp Sensor", which is right next to the Cold Start Injector Time Switch.... It in NO WAY has anything to do with the gauge temp reading. Rather, it senses coolant temp and has a lot to do with going into closed loop. When it goes bad, it CAN cause surging idle issues, but it's less frequently the culprit, because it has to be 2-3 things going wacky in unison, I believe.
Far as the Brake light Signal Switch that shuts off the injectors intermittently? >>> Makes NO difference if you've touched the brakes, etc. Could just simply be coincidence and then, as I mentioned in the previous paragraph, "A combination of things going wacky", ... but more like scenario usually being that the switch just went bad. CHECK the brake lights and pull back on the pedal, etc. But to really diagnose this switch you have to test it(I believe at the ECU, ...not sure there's another test.... Probably is, but I don't know of it)
Far as the coolant..... I hear ya, you added coolant, .... but that's not what I'm suggesting... Getting it on a hill brings gravity into the picture and forces the air to find it's way out. You can even jack up the front end with blocks behind the rear wheels, HIGH as you can, .....and then run it, get on a ladder and have the top off. See, you're not as worried, at this point, about "having enough coolant in there" as you are 'GETTING THE AIR OUT OF THE SYSTEM', ...ya feel me? Air pockets can wreak HAVOC, John. Being a lil low on coolant? .....NOT SO MUCH, lol. But YES, definitely wanna keep it topped off(WITHIN REASON).... Also, keep the overflow full when 'BURPING' the system....... Then sqeeze the hoses(wear gloves if they're scalding), as it assists in 'PULLING' or 'PUSHING' coolant into areas where there might be air, ya know?
Near the end here..... I want to AGAIN mention the IACV ..... THIS INDEED can cause issues with erratic idle. I explained above how it works, how to test it, etc. In fact, everything I've mentioned so far involves 'FREE' methods of 'TESTING', not removing or swapping out, etc. Nope, I recommend, as I've learned the hard way, to, "stay with a 'Process Of Elimination', and therein that POE, keep records of each thing you test, then rule it out, starting with the simplest thing first(Burping the system and diagnosing possible issues with the IACV in your case)... Do NOT break from the plan of attack when testing these things in a POE, because then you just get confused(well.... I DID! hahaha)" ....
Finally, ..... TPS-TESTING is free, homie! lol. I hear ya, it's a concern that you might have got it wet or something, then the cost of it, FHEWWWWWW, ... I feel ya, for sure! But you can test it for free.
Do you need any info on these things, John? Please feel free to ask, ok? I have some pretty good links and write ups myself, ya know? But, for the most part, all of this stuff is written up in even the Haynes, .... and ESPECIALLY in the FSM.... gotta love that book when you get used to navigating 1490 PAGES! hahaha.
09-28-2011, 09:37 PM
#55
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ok gang this is what happened, I started truck today and it idled high which is normal when cold and waited till it warmed up and it never did idle down like a normal engine would and again when it got warm it did the up and down RPM's over and over till I did what snobdds said and turned down the adjustment screw on top of TB and the surging of RPM's stopped, I turned it all the way down and the idle went down to 1100 I put in the jumper and right away the RPM's dropped to 1000 but no further and I adjusted the dist. till the timing was at 5 degrees and then I removed jumper and it went to 12 degrees and and idle went up to 1750 RPM's and just stays there and doesn't drop or go up, Here's the kicker, you step on brake pedal the RPM's take a nose dive to 700 RPMs and then up to 1500 and back down to 500 then 700 then 1500 and starts all over, release brake and it jumps to 1750 and stays and if you push on accelerator till 2000 RPM's the surging like in the start of this thread does it again over and over...
This is what is new or used,
new pro head & 268 cam from engnbldr.
new timing set timing cover water pump & oil pump 4piece a-la-cart from engnbldr.
new dual stage thermostat.
new cap, rotor, plugs & wires.
new used MAFM with the air filter bottom box too.new used full guage cluster from 22re 2wd from same truck as the MAFM came from.
new gaskets and seals everywhere.
new radiator cap.
new oem air filter
new pcv valve
new oil pressure guage sender.
new oem radiator hoses.
Most of the items would have no effect on the surging, I have no idea what's causing it???
Everything else is the same as when it was disassembled, truck ran great till the old mafm went bad, that's why I got a new used one that included everything from TB to the air filter box, it idled down like normal and didn't do the RPM surging over and over.
I was thinking the new dual stage thermostat, I bought a oem single stage before I bought the dual one, but used the dual stage.
I also did the valve check and adjustment and check HB torque and only 2 moved a smidgen till wrench clicked at 60 foot lbs...
The truck is possessed by a demon!!!! :}LOL
1st pic of left side oil and water temp when engine warm.
2nd pic of right side battery and fuel.
3rd pic of tach where it sat at 1750 RPM's and wouldn't go down, after timing was adjusted and jumper removed.
This is what is new or used,
new pro head & 268 cam from engnbldr.
new timing set timing cover water pump & oil pump 4piece a-la-cart from engnbldr.
new dual stage thermostat.
new cap, rotor, plugs & wires.
new used MAFM with the air filter bottom box too.new used full guage cluster from 22re 2wd from same truck as the MAFM came from.
new gaskets and seals everywhere.
new radiator cap.
new oem air filter
new pcv valve
new oil pressure guage sender.
new oem radiator hoses.
Most of the items would have no effect on the surging, I have no idea what's causing it???
Everything else is the same as when it was disassembled, truck ran great till the old mafm went bad, that's why I got a new used one that included everything from TB to the air filter box, it idled down like normal and didn't do the RPM surging over and over.
I was thinking the new dual stage thermostat, I bought a oem single stage before I bought the dual one, but used the dual stage.
I also did the valve check and adjustment and check HB torque and only 2 moved a smidgen till wrench clicked at 60 foot lbs...
The truck is possessed by a demon!!!! :}LOL
1st pic of left side oil and water temp when engine warm.
2nd pic of right side battery and fuel.
3rd pic of tach where it sat at 1750 RPM's and wouldn't go down, after timing was adjusted and jumper removed.
Last edited by john4wd; 09-28-2011 at 09:40 PM.
09-29-2011, 10:06 AM
#56
John, .... I'm wondering if you went through my post/instructions for diagnosis?? ........
"Far as the Brake light Signal Switch that shuts off the injectors intermittently? >>> Makes NO difference if you've touched the brakes, etc. Could just simply be coincidence and then, as I mentioned in the previous paragraph, "A combination of things going wacky", ... but more like scenario usually being that the switch just went bad. CHECK the brake lights and pull back on the pedal, etc. But to really diagnose this switch you have to test it(I believe at the ECU, ...not sure there's another test.... Probably is, but I don't know of it)"
The high idle is not normal, but the surging up and down is, as I mentioned above, when relating to "Injector cut off" when the RPM's are over 1000(AT ALL) and you hit the brake. If it's continuing to do it when your foot is off the brake, then you either have an issue with the "bk" pin/switch staying engaged or something else is wrong.....
I also mentioned ...........
"PSS> I would bet it's either the IACV or TPS.... What you do to test the IACV is pinch off the big hose in front of it, completely, and see if it persists? (BE CAREFUL! If the IACV front vacuum hose, the large one, is hard as a rock... DO NOT try to squeeze it to cut off the air..... If you do, you could break loose a bunch of brittle hardened vacuum hose that would fly into the intake, etc., etc., ...yes, IT'S NOT ideal! lol.) If you can reach it's connector and unplug it in the front, then plug it up on both sides, you might get the same result.(You want to stop it from being able to pull in air from the throttle body/plenum, ya know? Take a look at it, you'll see)"
AND.....
"Near the end here..... I want to AGAIN mention the IACV ..... THIS INDEED can cause issues with erratic idle. I explained above how it works, how to test it, etc. In fact, everything I've mentioned so far involves 'FREE' methods of 'TESTING', not removing or swapping out, etc. Nope, I recommend, as I've learned the hard way, to, "stay with a 'Process Of Elimination', and therein that POE, keep records of each thing you test, then rule it out, starting with the simplest thing first(Burping the system and diagnosing possible issues with the IACV in your case)... Do NOT break from the plan of attack when testing these things in a POE, because then you just get confused(well.... I DID! hahaha)" .... "
The IACV bypasses the throttle bodies "allowance" of air and pulls in more air in front of the throttle plate, from the bottom side(on most models... not sure on your 93)
Out of all the parts you mentioned/replaced,.... the ones not listed?>>> EVERY ONE I MENTIONED, lol...
* TPS
* Coolant Temp Sensor
* IACV(my guess)
* Intake or Plenum or Air intake Tube leak/missing vacuum hose connection
Pull the 'front' hose that is on the IACV off the Throttle Body, plug it up on both sides(Tbody and IACV) and tell me if it stops. You can adjust the air/idle adjustment screw down COMPLETELY, and it might still do it, because it's pulling air into your plenum at a MUCH larger volume, through the IACV, which is in 'front' of the throttle plate where, when fully warm, if the IACV WAS working, it pulls in the air it needs to maintain 750rpm(The air/idle screw will only change your idle adequately if your IACV isn't busted, k?)
Let us know, bud, ... you'll get it!
"Far as the Brake light Signal Switch that shuts off the injectors intermittently? >>> Makes NO difference if you've touched the brakes, etc. Could just simply be coincidence and then, as I mentioned in the previous paragraph, "A combination of things going wacky", ... but more like scenario usually being that the switch just went bad. CHECK the brake lights and pull back on the pedal, etc. But to really diagnose this switch you have to test it(I believe at the ECU, ...not sure there's another test.... Probably is, but I don't know of it)"
The high idle is not normal, but the surging up and down is, as I mentioned above, when relating to "Injector cut off" when the RPM's are over 1000(AT ALL) and you hit the brake. If it's continuing to do it when your foot is off the brake, then you either have an issue with the "bk" pin/switch staying engaged or something else is wrong.....
I also mentioned ...........
"PSS> I would bet it's either the IACV or TPS.... What you do to test the IACV is pinch off the big hose in front of it, completely, and see if it persists? (BE CAREFUL! If the IACV front vacuum hose, the large one, is hard as a rock... DO NOT try to squeeze it to cut off the air..... If you do, you could break loose a bunch of brittle hardened vacuum hose that would fly into the intake, etc., etc., ...yes, IT'S NOT ideal! lol.) If you can reach it's connector and unplug it in the front, then plug it up on both sides, you might get the same result.(You want to stop it from being able to pull in air from the throttle body/plenum, ya know? Take a look at it, you'll see)"
AND.....
"Near the end here..... I want to AGAIN mention the IACV ..... THIS INDEED can cause issues with erratic idle. I explained above how it works, how to test it, etc. In fact, everything I've mentioned so far involves 'FREE' methods of 'TESTING', not removing or swapping out, etc. Nope, I recommend, as I've learned the hard way, to, "stay with a 'Process Of Elimination', and therein that POE, keep records of each thing you test, then rule it out, starting with the simplest thing first(Burping the system and diagnosing possible issues with the IACV in your case)... Do NOT break from the plan of attack when testing these things in a POE, because then you just get confused(well.... I DID! hahaha)" .... "
The IACV bypasses the throttle bodies "allowance" of air and pulls in more air in front of the throttle plate, from the bottom side(on most models... not sure on your 93)
Out of all the parts you mentioned/replaced,.... the ones not listed?>>> EVERY ONE I MENTIONED, lol...
* TPS
* Coolant Temp Sensor
* IACV(my guess)
* Intake or Plenum or Air intake Tube leak/missing vacuum hose connection
Pull the 'front' hose that is on the IACV off the Throttle Body, plug it up on both sides(Tbody and IACV) and tell me if it stops. You can adjust the air/idle adjustment screw down COMPLETELY, and it might still do it, because it's pulling air into your plenum at a MUCH larger volume, through the IACV, which is in 'front' of the throttle plate where, when fully warm, if the IACV WAS working, it pulls in the air it needs to maintain 750rpm(The air/idle screw will only change your idle adequately if your IACV isn't busted, k?)
Let us know, bud, ... you'll get it!
09-29-2011, 10:13 AM
#57
See the IACV? It's in the top left of this photo, with the large vacuum hose coming out of the front of it, which travels up and into the front of the Throttle body, before the throttle body flap... if yours is 'stuck open', then NOTHING you adjust is going to 'solve' this. You need to rule that out, k?
09-29-2011, 10:17 AM
#59
OK, I just read this, .............
http://www.toyotapart.com/AUXILIARY_...T-EG89-002.pdf
In that case, it appears it might be a different part number, ...but not sure on if it's a different apparatus all together.... Sometimes, they just change the inner parts, as plastic doesn't corrode, like with the heater control valve... Yours is plastic, mine is metal and a POCrap! lol.
Can you just tell me if you have that valve?
http://www.toyotapart.com/AUXILIARY_...T-EG89-002.pdf
In that case, it appears it might be a different part number, ...but not sure on if it's a different apparatus all together.... Sometimes, they just change the inner parts, as plastic doesn't corrode, like with the heater control valve... Yours is plastic, mine is metal and a POCrap! lol.
Can you just tell me if you have that valve?
09-29-2011, 10:23 AM
#60
This is a question and answer on "ask" or something.... Answered by a Toyota Technician....
Question;
"I have a 93 22RE that I did lots of work to... I don't want it to rev so high when its cold. Its running great.
Just put new cam drive chain and all associated parts in.
Regards,
ghorne"
Answer:
"There is an auxiliary air valve that bolts to the bottom of the throttle body. It has to small coolant lines going to it. This is a thermo wax type valve that changes the idle speed as the engine warms up based on coolant temp. There is no adjustment that can be done on it at least per Toyota. You may be able to disassemble it and try to modify the spring tension on the valve but I would not recommend it."
Question;
"I have a 93 22RE that I did lots of work to... I don't want it to rev so high when its cold. Its running great.
Just put new cam drive chain and all associated parts in.
Regards,
ghorne"
Answer:
"There is an auxiliary air valve that bolts to the bottom of the throttle body. It has to small coolant lines going to it. This is a thermo wax type valve that changes the idle speed as the engine warms up based on coolant temp. There is no adjustment that can be done on it at least per Toyota. You may be able to disassemble it and try to modify the spring tension on the valve but I would not recommend it."
