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do you have a low fuel dummy light? if so, pull signal from there to trip a relay to the pump in the aux tank. maybe have it run for a preset amount of time then shut off. i assume theres a float in the aftermarket tank as well. just have the signal for low fuel trip that to kill the aux pump.
I always set my trip odometer when I fill the tank, I can make it 5 days back and forth to work (about 46 miles round trip) but I always get nervous when the trip odometer gets around the 250 mile mark, and my gauge reads empty, then when I fill it up and it only takes 12.5 to 13 gallons and Im like oh, I had plenty of gas left, lol. One of these days I need to recalibrate for the 31's I'm sure that's affecting my odometer reading to some degree.
I was doing some research on a Ford gas tank swap when I had my 86' 4runner. With the 302 V8 and 12 to 13 mpg average I felt like I needed the extra full caring capacity, never got it done though.
The 31's are about 7% larger than stock so whatever your trip meter says, multiply that by 1.07 and you'll get your actual mileage. Of course, that doesn't actually extend your range, just means you can calculate actual MPG more accurately. With non-aggressive tires, it's possible to increase your MPG with 31's since the engine has to turn less to go the same distance. This only works on flat highways though since it has to work 7% harder to start moving and to get up hills.
Originally Posted by space-junk
do you have a low fuel dummy light? if so, pull signal from there to trip a relay to the pump in the aux tank. maybe have it run for a preset amount of time then shut off. i assume theres a float in the aftermarket tank as well. just have the signal for low fuel trip that to kill the aux pump.
does that make sense?
Good idea! I didn't think of that. I like the idea of using the factory low fuel dummy light to trigger a relay to a transfer pump. This would prevent the main tank from overfilling since the main tank would be close to empty. The pump would automatically come on. The auxiliary tank has no provisions for a level sending unit or fuel pump. It's just a tank with some fittings for fuel and vapors to get in and out. I'm not sure how to turn it off though. A timer is pretty basic and would work okay, but the issue would be when the auxiliary tank is empty and the pump keeps running for a bit it might burn out. I saw another thread somewhere where the guy put a pressure switch after the pump so the pump would only run if there was pressure being output. To start it there was a momentary button which bypassed the safety to get the pump going then it would keep going on its own until it lost pressure.
I saw another thread somewhere where the guy put a pressure switch after the pump so the pump would only run if there was pressure being output. To start it there was a momentary button which bypassed the safety to get the pump going then it would keep going on its own until it lost pressure.
No, that all went well. The videos will continue to come out, slowly. The truck as been running fine ever since. Problem is as I was putting the motor back together I noticed a couple lobes on the cam are wiping themselves. The truck does have a very slight skip at idle and seems down on power. Both would come from a lobe or a few that aren't as tall as the others. Engine is running and I'm still driving the 4Runner a couple times a week. But I know it's going to get worse so I put the order in. I'm tired of bastardized Craigslist motors and making engines with the best parts from a few different trucks/engines. I'd like to do it once more and be done. With that in mind I ordered it with the dual row timing chain. Should last a good long while. Figure with around 415,000 miles on the truck now, this new engine should last until the truck has 3/4 of a million miles.
The engine that's in the 4Runner now has a good bottom end. My Pickup has low oil pressure. I'll probably make a bastard engine with the 4Runner bottom end and the Pickup top end to put into the Pickup. Then I'll send all the rest back to Putney's as the core. We'll see. I have some time to figure it out.
Where did you find the west coast style mirrors?? Been searching like hell for a pair and can’t find any anywhere. I tried a pair for the early broncos but they are too big and have too much droop. Also how did you end up mounting them? Sorry to revive the thread, I just have to find a pair!
Where did you find the west coast style mirrors?? Been searching like hell for a pair and can’t find any anywhere. I tried a pair for the early broncos but they are too big and have too much droop. Also how did you end up mounting them? Sorry to revive the thread, I just have to find a pair!
I have them too. I got two sets a while back from eBay. I kept searching "compact truck mirrors" and "mini truck mirrors." The set I have on my truck are stainless steel, were brand new in the box, and had a copywrite date of 1988. They were a standard item in the auto department of Kmarts and big box auto stores in the 1980's. The top two screw holes matched the Toyota holes. I have another set that are chrome and they were "Cal Custom." Cal Custom stuff I know was sold at Kmart. I probably paid $50 a pair. Checking "Datsun truck mirrors" I just found these that need a little work: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1981-1982-1...Xgo4:rk:6:pf:0 and checking "mini truck mirrors" there are these for $49 each but they have 10 and they are brand new https://www.ebay.com/itm/Deluxe-Ford...zwQ:rk:49:pf:0
Thanks man, exactly what I was looking for. Notice any more vibration with them being mounted just to the door skin at lower attachment point? I was trying to come up with a way to reinforce with out pulling door apart. The top holes on my drivers side are bored out too. PO put some massive machine screws in there just to hold mirror on....I love fixing other peoples lack of effort!
I bought mine at a junkyard. I buy them whenever I can since they rust out and people like them. I currently only have one side as a space and it's not even complete.
You should definitely mount them using all the holes. If you leave a pair of holes without bolts the mirror is likely going to slap around and chip the paint. I don't know if the mirrors I have are a factory or dealer option. The top two holes are the same spacing as the factory power or factory small manual mirrors. The lower holes will need to be drilled out. You can either drill them and put a nut on the backside which requires you remove the door panel and place the nut back there and hold it while you tighten the bolt. You'd have to remove the door panel to remove the mirrors too. Or you can install rivnuts totally from the outside. Doesn't require door panel removal.
Not much to say since the last update. I did install the James Dean Creations reproduction decals. Came out awesome despite my amateur installation skills. Also, my 22RE Performance engine should be finished up end of next week. Looking forward to getting it in and driving the truck more. Only been driving it about once a week due to the cam lobes flattening. Got a bunch of goodies to install at the same time.
I'm very happy with the quality. They are printed on 3M material. The decals come with a squeegee and some instructions. They do state quite a few times that they will not warrantee any amateur installations. I see why, too. Too many variables. The decals feel like they are nice and thick. There are no points at any of the corners, they are all cut to a super small radius, maybe 1/16" or less. Points are easy to snag and start the decal peeling but even just the tiny radius makes that much less likely. The decals do not come cut for the mirrors so you'll have to do that yourself. I just cut them with scissors. Nothing special. Be very careful installing them. You only have a few minutes before the water you have on the car and sticky side of the decal gets soaked up into the backing paper. Once this happens, the decals slowly start to move around on the backing paper and lose their relative spacing. On 1987 and 1988 4Runner decals, the spacing between all the stripes is pretty important. Having them not spaced right or not parallel would very quickly make them look stupid. Have someone help you. Two hands is not enough. I'm hesitant to offer help, since I am no pro and I don't want to ruin someones $250 decals. But if you ask, I'll say yes.
Do you have pics of them on the truck? What color did you go with?
unfortunately I’m nowhere near a point for install, but would like to make the purchase soon before either a) they stop making then or b) the price continues to go up
Now imagine the stickers are 4 to 5 feet long. It was harder than I expected.
My decals were originally black. James Dean's site lists gold metallic, smoke, and silver as the choices. I chose smoke as that sounded like it would be the black one. They look like silver to me, but they look okay. I suppose they might have sent me the wrong ones, but I never did ask.
Also, on the subject of decals, Toyota sent me this window cling for free!
04-13-2017, 05:03 PM
