94runnerfan

Well I got my first big boy job this summer well internship but what ever, so I will finally have a decent income, and well just like any good YotaTech user I will be spending it all on my truck haha. That and my BAD ASS bro, is swapping to 1-tons very soon, so I will be getting a good deal on an aussie locker, high steer, wheel spacers, hangers, and a bunch of other parts that make we want to get building. Now I just have to curse how much shipping is from Alaska


I am starting with a white 94 4runner 3.0 auto, with 31" bfg all terains.
The final goal will be a trail rated Mall Crawler, i.e. a really capable trail rig that still daily drives well because it is my only car.

Hear is the break down/goal

Engine:
Chevy 4.3 93-95 early Votec
700R4 auto
3.0 auto toyota t-case
relocated astrovan, s-10 or explorer gas tank to spare tire location.

Suspension:
I am trying to keep rear coils, with leafs in the front. I want to keep it low both for COG, as well as it is my daily driver, so I would like it to fit in garages when neaded.

front:
SAS
85 toyota axle
e-locker
30 spline longs
Hybrid rear leafs
Ford shock towers
home made hangers, and shackles

rear:
edit:
For now:
stock links
Panhard drop bracket
OME 862's LC .75" lift coils
aussie locker from my bro

later:
lengthed stock links
With Johnie joints
e-locker
triangulated top links

Gears and tires:
4.88 gears and extended diff breathers
35x10.5 BFG AT's for DD
36x12.5 TSL's for the trail
stock I think tacoma painted black

mall crawler factor:
Heated seats
remote start/rear window
pioner indash DVD
pioner 6.5's in front doors
pioner 6x9's in stock rear locations
10"rockford forgate sub
custom gear/sub box
Aux oulet/ power converter in side compartment
Mini fridge for camping
murdered out grill, mirrors, door handles and tailgate

Protection
Home made, Slider steps,rear bumper, and front bumer, trans skid plate
eventually exo cage
ADDED: Rear tire carrier
I measured trying to fit a 35" spare, and a 48" or 60" in the back of my truck haha, that was a dumb plan.

I am hopefully going to get going on this project in 2 weeks after finals, starting with with the engine swap. I do have some questions before all of this gets going
1)How much lift do I need for 36's hopefully without to much. I think 904_runner was runnig 36's with cruiser coils for a while, but from what I have read on the site most say no bigger than 33's with the LC coils/bj spacers? Is that becasue the front?
2)does anybody have any input on toyota t-case with an advaced adapter vs chevy t-case, aside from the fact that 1 is toyota, and this is a toyota board.
3)how much gusseting is necessary on the front axle. I am thinking marlins or homemade ball gussets/ upper truss and calling it good. Should I truss the rear axle as well?
3)I also need some advice on 4 links. I am thinking of triangulating my top links to delete the pan hard bar, so I can move the tank to the rear. I am wondering if I keep the same length(from top of the axle to mt points on the frame), but triangulate them enough to ditch the panhard(i think 45 degres between links), do I need to re do the whole geomotry of the setup or should it be good.

mattaway

if you use a chevy t-case, keep in mind the full size 700r4 has passenger side drop, while the s10's used drivers side drop. and alot of 90's models used the 4L60E instead of 700r4.

94runnerfan

cool the 700r4 is actually coming out of a Camaro I think, from behind an LS1. My dad has had 2 sitting in the garage for a few years now, so I will have to convert it to 4x4 regardless. I hadn't thought about diver vs pass drop though thanks.
From what I understand post 96 had 4l69e, and pre 96 had the 700r4's right? That is why I was aiming for 93-95 vortec they still start off with 190HP, but I don't have to deal with nearly as much wiring.

a4runnerfreak

And, not to rain on your locker parade, but the Aussie won't fit into the V6 3rd, as Aussie doesn't make a locker for our V6 rigs. The only way you can use the Aussie is to use a 4 cyl 3rd in the pumpkin. Just FYI......

94runnerfan

Yah the locker is actually coming out of my brothers 4cyl when he does the axle swap which is why I was thinking Aussie. I was thinking I would be able to swap my v6 3rd with the 4cyl 3rd out of the SFA when I get it though.

a4runnerfreak

As long as the 3rd's are all 8", you should be golden.

wheatus

sounds like a big build, what is your time frame on all of this? i am interested to see how it all works out. i have a 4.3 vortec that i would love to swap into my truck but the 22r refuses to die.

mattaway

i'm not sure what trannys were used in camaros, but i know that early first gen s10s with the 4.3 had 700r4, and after 90 or 91 they came with 700r4 or 4L60E.

my 89 s10 had a solid 200,000 mile 700r4. that tranny took alot of abuse

94runnerfan

As i get the money it will go in. I am hoping to do the SAS, and engine with in the next month or so, but we will see. The tough part is I will have to try and do it in weekend increments, so I can drive it to work on Monday. As for the engine my 3.0 is in good shape the power just isn't there with an auto, or maybe I just set my goals to high, with my dreams of passing somebody going up hill someday haha. I love the 22r to though I drove my dads 86 2wd for a while before I got my runner I miss the 22 and 5 speed that thing was fun to drive. I don't really understand why everybody waits till the engine blows to swap, motivation i guess. I already have an offer to buy my 3.0 and tranny which will pay for a huge chuck of the swap.

I heard there both pretty sturdy, i figure if you can run them behind a big block in a full size truck, a 4.3 in a runner shouldn't be an issue.

LIVES4CRAWLIN91

hey on the aussie locker note, I was on their site just a couple of hours ago and noticed that they do build a locker for the v6 thirds, at least they are advertising it, so ya , but good luck on the build, I was thinking of swapping a 4.3 myself, but I think I'm leanin to an lc engineering crate motor just to keep it yota.

a4runnerfreak

I'll have to look into that. They've been sayin that They've been "working" on a locker for us V6 guys for like the past 3 years.......lol!

*Edit, I didn't see anything for us V6 guys. Owell, Lockright it is....

wheatus

a motor swap in a weekend is a little amibitous i think i would make some contingency plans for getting to work monday morning. i am not saying that it can't be done but you are really going to have to plan ahead and have everything you are going to need or likely to need on hand. there are a lot of little things that come up when you do an engine swap that are unforeseen. you are right about the motivation thing, my truck is just a toy and it runs well so i don't care to mess with it. maybe after i get my paint and body work project finished up but i doubt it. i have spent more time working on my truck than driving it.

94runnerfan

haha yah it is a lot of ambitious especially with no fab or engine experience. I am not counting on it I still live with my parents, and they have the toy that I used to drive still parked in the back yard, so if all else fails I do have a back up plan, just trying to avoid having to deal with the hassle of borrow there car. I am sure I will run into a ton of issues, but I think if I get everything complete together and rebuilt, then dig into the truck I am hoping it won't take to long. I go into runner withdraws fast haha.

ryantowry_81

SWEEEEEEETTTTT It has begun!!!! hahahaha.

I cant wait to see this thing finished!! little bro finally got the motor head itch too huh?

so i am tearing out my toy axles this week and getting the 5.38's in the one tons, so i should be able to bring some of the stuff down with me when i come down on may 15th, the only real oversized part are the high steer bars but shouldn't be too bad to ship (BTW you will need to either buy the trail gear pitman arm or the sky manufacturing conversion joint cause i need mine).

also i can use the plasma to cut you out some brackets and i have a set of f-250 shock towers you can have too, we just need to sit down and figure out exactly how you want it and then talk dad into helping you weld it together.

I might be going 4.3 or 5.0 in my truck in the next week or two also cause some one offered me a huge amount of money for my buick motor and i want fuel injection after all so i should be able to help you with that too.

my 2 cents on the questions you had:

1)How much lift do I need for 36's hopefully without to much? Is that becasue the front?

from my experience the hardest part to clear is the fire wall and you can either hammer/cut that out of the way or move the axle forward (which the RUF'S do anyways). personally i perfer to move the front axle forward to clear cause it also helps approach angle and weight distribution (IE the motor is more behind the aaxle so more weight is on the rear axle....more traction.) if i had to bet you could get good flex with ony 3" of lift or so.

2)does anybody have any imput on toyota t-case with an advaced adapter vs chevy t-case, aside from the fact that 1 is toyota, and this is a toyota board.

as for the transfer case go with the toyota transfer case, unless you can find a 205 or an atlas in your budget(big $$$$) the toyota is the next best thing!
3)how much gusseting is necesary on the front axle. I am thinking marlins or homemade ball gussets/ upper truss and calling it good. Should I truss the rear axle as well?

i have run the piss out of mine in the last couple weeks with no gusseting and 39's and no prob yet, so if you make your own knuckle gussets you shoud be fine....you only really need the gusseting if you drive like me and i have seen how you drive, you are not that crazy.
3)I also need some advice on 4 links. I am thinking of triangulating my top links to delete the pan hard bar, so I can move the tank to the rear. I am wondering if I keep the same length(from top of the axle to mt points on the frame), but triangulate them enough to ditch the panhard(i think 45 degres between links), do I need to re do the whole geomotry of the setup or should it be good.

if you get rid of your panhard you will need to put more angle on the links than you have now. there are some good programs to build links in that you can cycle the travel and put side loads on them and see what happens but i dont remember if it was on here or pirate....


oh and you have to have this done by next june, we are thinking or taking a vacation to the rubicon, and driving the wheeling rigs the whole way just to say we did it!!! might have to stop through spokane and show you how to wheel....lol J/K

cant wait to see you in two weeks and i will come with presents!!

oh and dont worry about only working on the weekends, you can do it especially the motor cause you have the motor guru right there at your disposal, i remember pulling grandpas chevy and replacing engine and trans in a day with him.

94runnerfan

sounds good.
Are you sure you don't want to take the High steer arms as a carry on. I am sure they will let you on a plane with a large metal pipe right haha.
I am thinking if I mess with the steering arm I might be able to keep the stock steering box location, and still move the axle forward.

That is kind of where I am having a tough time figuring out how far the bracket needs to go forward. I figured that I will have to get the shackle tubes drilled then wait to check hanger angles before I really now where to mount the front hanger, or is there an easier way to do it.

didn't you say you already had a free 4.3 laying around up there? If not I think you should go with the 5.0 that would be bad ass if I didn't worry about millage, smog and general annoying daily driving crap I would think more about that. The wiring should still be similar enough that you can still help me out. Well that and you could probably jump larger rivers that way.

I think that is what I am aiming for 3-4" with another 2-3 inches from the tires I would be at the brink of the garage limits, but still capable as hell. I am planning to length the front and the rear probably about 1" so I think with replacing the bumpers I will have a lot more space that way.


sure sure once I don't have to hit 6000RPM to accelerate, we will see who hits some sweet jumps haha. Do you think rocks vs mud makes a difference in this department? I was thinking dif armor would be a good idea, because of the amount of rocks, but I don't think it effects how strong the axle need to be right?

I have seen some programs on pirate, but they are way over my head. If there is that much math to figure out I think I will stick to panhard drop for a while, and mess with the tank around that cross member. Do you think if I extend the links 1-2" I will need to relocate my panhard, and spring purches or will it be close enough to leave it b?

dude if you drive all the way to Rubicon, and don't pick me and my rig up or at least me I will be bitter to say the least haha. Are you sure your truck wouldn't go into mud withdraws in the Rubicon?

sweet, dude I forgot about the gradgiation, I was thinking about trying to wheel that weekend, to celebrate being done with finals I would get beaten for that one I think.
Oh yah and I think dad is even getting excited about doing this engine swap. We have been talking about it a tone, and he us actually going to swing by pick and pull after work to check out engines for me STOKED. I was really wondering if he was going to be down to help or just pissed that I was thinking of putting an engine and an SFA on my truck before actually paying it off , but he seems ok with the engine swap at least after the drive to lookout haha. I already had an offer to buy my 3.0 and trans when I pull them. I'm hoping I might be able to get like $500 atleast out of my old drive train. They seem to go for more than that with 2X the milage on CL, and I am looking at about $500 for a whole doner truck so I'm hoping the damage wont be to bad to get it running again. atleast before the HP mods

ryantowry_81

i can get the arms and ends but the tie rond and drag link i minght have to duct tape together and ship but i only paid 35 bucks for the whole thing shipping wise so still not too bad.

as for locating the front axle i would set the front hanger first based on how far forward you want to move the axle forward and then set the tube location and shackle length to get ride height and a good shackle angle(=good ride/flex). personally i had my tubes already there but i moved my hanger forward 1.5" and down 1.5" and havs a 7" shackle (1.5" over stock) and my angle is awesome. it netted me 4" of axle movement forward so i doubt you want to move it that much but we can figure where the max you can move it without moveing the steering box and go from there.
yeah the guy who wants my buick is the one that has the 4.3 but it dosent have the wiring ecm or injectors so he was looking at donor trucks and found a 2wd 94 chevy like my white one with a 305(5.0L)
for 500 and asked if i was against a v-8......so i said hell yes, so we will see what i end up with.

If you want good TBI tech go to binderplanet.com, it is a scout site but they have alot of TBI swap info on there that is really detailed
the rocks are definately much harder on parts (other than seals) than the mud is. but you wont bend the housing unless you do jump it or want to do some crazy rocks, i.e. drops, hoping to get up stuff and extreme angles, and i dont see you getting that crazy around spokane. also if you do want to truss it make your own, way cheaper and the only difficult part is welding it slow as to not warp the housing but dad has that down after all the body work he has done. definately, i repeat definately do diff armor!!! i have had my front 3rd out 3 times punching the housing back out on the trail after nudging a rock in the mud i didn't see
when i get home we will have to take a look at this, so i am more fromilliar with your setup and what you want to do, if anyone can figure out the 4 link software it would be us!! i mean after all they let me design powerplants.....

you are definately welcome to come if that trip does actually materialize but expect body damage if we do the rubi and fordice and other . thinking of taking two full weeks up and back!!! will be 3200 miles from anchorage though, so crazy adventure!! we should set aside a day or two in spokane and go wheel around there!!! that could be fun and also give me a buffer if SHTF going through canada

you should be able to get more than 500 for a good running 3.0 and your auto tranny. i have seen the 3.0 running go for 750-1000 by it self!
and remember pick and pull is your friend!!!

jpsstewart3

This sounds bad frikin ass!!!! I caint wait to see pics!!!!

ryantowry_81

looks like i am picking up two 91 TBI 4.3's for -600 bucks ( yeah i made money on the deal...) so i might have some extra parts there for you too.

if nothing else help you trouble shooting

anthony1

iTrader: (1)

That sounds great ......except for the part where you said you need it to fit in your garage....
If your garage door is the standard size with standard size door, it ain't gonna fit when you're done with it.

Junkers88

*sigh* Me and the rest of the IFS guys will be sitting in the corner drooling.