ronnie4

If you notice any differences in the wiring could you let me know? Are you going to use a power steering cooler? I know my 7m supra had one.

7m4x4dude

yeah im goign to use a auto tranny cooler, yeah if i find difference i'll let you know

right off the bat i know the fuel pump is different since i do not have an fuel pump in the truck, i could wire it up with a relay and cor like oem for the 7mge

http://www.supracharged.com/tech/wir...ring_color.png

toyota4x4907

Dual cooling fans??

7m4x4dude

yeah they were fromt he a/c for the 89+ turbo supra' and it doesn't appear i will be able to use them. i have already removed them, and i am making bracket's to fit the bottom of the rad into, and still have cutting to help clearence & add air flow over the rad, there's enough clearence so i wont have to do major cutting.

7m4x4dude

here's some pictures of my harness for B1 connector is, just to remind you, i have a 87 engine harness.



1:The green wire is the ground wire from the ecu to the circuit opening relay on efi trucks, (as far as i know, my truck doesn't have one since it's carb'd from the factory; and the COR controls the fuel pump.)

2: yellow wire is for the fuel pump resister, it's from the ecu, and controlls the function of 6v fuel pump.
For my application, i will not need it. i choose to run my pump 12v's so pressure is more consistant.

3: the Black wire wrapped up with the two orange and black wire's. is for the starter, it came off the black and white stripped wire. it will tie into the st postion of the ignition.

4: the large and small black wire power the ecu, it is wise to power both, works well to combine them, i choose to do so at the fuse link i solder onto the two wire's. i made the wire's about 5-6 feet long so i can route them through the dash to the ignition switch along with the starter signal wire.


here you can see how i twisted the three wire's together for the two switched power supplie wire's for the ecu and the fuse holder. this basic twist method is a good way to solder your wire's together. the wire's are coated smoothly and while it's still hot yuo can tap the wire or flick it to remove access solder. you do not want the solder to form any tips or the wire to extrude. it can cause shorts, grounds; and grimlins.


first start to get the wire hot.from underneith.



Once wire is hot, add solder to the wire and place the heated wire onto the solder puddle.



Now, you will see the solder attract towards the heated wire if every thing is clean and hot enough. add new solder to the top of the wire. and from each side of the wire exposed, yes make it all silver. to much isn't to bad.



now the the wire is coated well, and the wire was hot enough to melt the solder it's best time to get the solder off, you can tap the wire of flick it, or even purchase a sucker to be able to remove most of the solder for removing the solder..




Dont forget to fit and install heat shrink to insulate the solder connection.





well i need to find my M1 connector....

7m4x4dude

started lower rad mounts.

7m4x4dude

here's m1



it has water temp(yellow/green), oil pressure(yellow/black),tach (black), and check engine light (grey)

934rnr

It makes me wonder on mine it's already fuel injected so wiring is gonna be a little different. However I wonder if I can use some of the components with 22re harness like the exisiting coil wiring etc and splice them into the 7mge harness.
I am good with mechanical things but unless electrical stuff is really simple I stay away from it.
That's the only thing that scares me from doing this conversion honestly.

7m4x4dude

having a efi rig already makes it alittle nicer.

you wont have to purchase a fuel pump, or engineer a way for it to fit into the tank, or run high pressure fuel line (100psi).will need to swap the pump for a new unit if you want peace of mind though.

yeah the old coil location is where to splice in for your coil power,tach.

7m4x4dude

well i got the starter installed today, ran some tempory clutch line made from the stock rubbler toyota flex line. i'll be having a SS line made.











also stopped by the store and purchased a small oil cooler that i'll be using for power steering. also purchased enough small line to finish the power steering return line, and also finish the heater core.








also made top mounts for the rad, on the body, and the lower mounts will be on the frame, should work fine till i decide to put a body lift on the truck.





in these pic's i've started to pound out the area on the passenger side, after i cut some of it out, i have welded the passenger side in just to test fit and im still test fitting....







this last picture show's how i routed the new 72 inch postive batterie cable behind the rad and towards the starter.

934rnr

Looking good. Id like to see how this works without a body-lift if you can.
Also do yourself a favor goto the junkyard find a wrecked 90-95 toyota v6 truck or 4 runner.
Get the v6 master brake cylinder and clutch cylinder.
Your brakes and clutch will feel so much better after you put it in. I just did it to my 4 runner.
The v6 master brake cylinder has bigger bore so more braking psi so you have better brakes.
Actually the v6 clutch master cylinder had a bigger bore too.
My brake master was leaking into the booster cylinder likely with the age of your truck it is too.
My clutch master cylinder seals were leaking too into my cab every month or so the thing was empty.
The other plus is they are made of aluminum so they much more blingy compared to the factory rusty ones that came on it stock....
Also another thing if you can change out your differentials too.
If you find a 90-95 4 runner or truck look at the vin plate down on the drivers side inner door sill.

Most standard 90-95 v6 trucks or 4 runners came with 4.56 gears which the axle code on it would be g254.
The automatic v6's came with with usually 4.56 or 4.88's so the code for 4.88's would be g144.
The differentials will drop right in and likely you have 4.11's in your truck(which are fine if you plan on running just stock tires).

Pre 89 automatics usually had 4.30's in it but it's not always the case it depends on the factory tire size.

Just something to look for if you decide to re-gear on the cheap.
Plus 4.56's or 4.88 and a v6 3rd would be a lot better with the power of a 7mge motor.
33's or even 35's would do really well with that.

Also you can go here to find out how to decode your vin: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ToyVIN.shtml


Over all I do like this project a lot.

Love to see that thing rolling on 33's with no lift or a small body-lift it's very doable.
I run 35's with just a 2" body-lift and some trimming.

ronnie4

LOoking good man, I think you can use a Land Cruiser master brake cylinder as well and it is a bit bigger that the V6 master cyl. What are you going to use for the high pressure power steering line?

934rnr

True I had a FJ80 master on my 82 truck and ifs v6 front brake calipers . It worked fairly well too.
I was thinking on the cheap that's why I got mine from the junkyard instead of a new one. Finding a fj80 in the scrapyard is rare but yeah if you can find one get the master out of it.
I paid quite a bit for the fj80 master cylinder from marlin.
I think I paid less than $10 for the v6 master I got from the junkyard.

ronnie4

I've actually gotten lucky enough to find 2 FJ 80's at the local junkyard recently. I want to say one form a MK3 supra will work as well, but just can't remember for sure.

934rnr

Well a mk3 supra master would be decent if you were doing a rear disk brake swap too.
Anyways back to the 7mge swap so we can let this guy have his thread back....

7m4x4dude

hahahaha, no guys' it's fine. when you ramble i wont have to search for that info LOL

i have mk3 supra parts out the ass. so i might try a supra master and clutch master first, but right now starting the truck is still first agenda.



im saving up for a set of 35x12.50 15's bfg km2's, but right now i have 2 33x1250's that are 70% or better tread, and two that are just gettin me by.(25-35%)

as for the gear's, im going to go a season with the 4.11's i may still try to add atleast a mk3 lsd into the rear.



i do not want to pay for a body lift or any suspension lift. so my plan's are to make them if i need them.
right now i think if i make some shackles and bj spacer's i should be golden for the mean while.maybe tighten the torsen bars a bit, just so i know im right i tighten the torsen bar's with an 19/22mm under the cab? which direction tighten's the torsen bars?

934rnr

DO NOT touch the torsion bars if you put in ball joint spacers. Clockwise tightens them but I wouldn't do it unless you absolutely have to....
Only because you need to have it on a flat surface crank both of them equally and you have to measure the distance between the ground and the frame. It's a PITA unless your patient.

Better yet throw a LSD in the front ifs diff too.

I got my 4.56 differentials for free only because I parted out a guy's 4 runner for him and that was my payment for doing so.
It's really easy to change them out front and back will take less than 2 hours with a lift.
I guess 4.11's are ok for now.
If your going that far to throw a LSD in re-gearing would only be a extra step all that I am saying.

Also if you plan on doing a rear disk conversion there's a guy on www.pirate4x4.com who sells brackets using 79-85 toyota truck front calipers.
So having the supra master it's already porportioned for rear disks and would go nicely with it.
If you went that route too.

7m4x4dude

well if i find some shorter gears for a good deal before i tear it apart i;ll probally do it. though i dont mind tearing into them at a later date either...

but the rad does fit!





still have to finsih taching the mounts in and bracing them up.







this last one needs some bracing it's the drivers side.



hood closes with the rad in too. no cap though hope it doesn't make a difference i mounted it low i think.

7m4x4dude

oh yeah, just in case every one is wondering, the rad was a new mk3 unit that was installed on a car that got a new jdm motor that came with a rusty bhg as soon as it get's set up it's coming back apart for a rad flush.maybe i'll flush the rad out tomorrow.

ronnie4

It's looking good man, I was planning on just using the 22re stock radiator on mine, but it looks like the 7m radiator fits in there pretty nicely, I might have to give that a shot.