TinMan's 1985 4Runner Build-Up Thread
07-18-2010, 04:53 PM
#21
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I took some time yesterday to iron out a few things with the front end that were bothering me.
After putting the OME 2" lift on a few months ago the torque rod was not long enough without turning the front end forward, which changed the caster angle. And without a torque rod under hard braking the axle would roll forward and push the steering to the right. Finally got tired of it and built an adjustable torque rod
Worked great so on to the next project.
The lift also change the angle of the drag link. Not much, but enough to make the steering wheel sit off to the left. So I looked around for a 3/4" heavy duty turnbuckle. Could not find anything in the local area. So went ahead used 3/4" coupler. I knew it would not give me the fine adjustment needed. But I thought it would help bring it back to near straight. It worked real well, the steering wheel is almost perfectly straight.
After I got done and painted I noticed the adjusters on tie rods of another vehicle. And thought dang that would have worked great. I could have went to the local junk yard and found one off a heavy truck and it would have worked great. But oh well this worked well also.
Either way the old runner tracks great down the road, and with the torque rod fixed, and the drag link at the proper lengths. All the vibration I had before is gone.
I bought a engbldr stock head with 268 cam from babyfood1217, he said he bought it for a rebuild and then ended up buying a oregon engine builder engine. He never used it, and gave me a good deal on it. It should be in on Wednesday.
Might be able to get the head on the short block next weekend. Baby steps.
Later
After putting the OME 2" lift on a few months ago the torque rod was not long enough without turning the front end forward, which changed the caster angle. And without a torque rod under hard braking the axle would roll forward and push the steering to the right. Finally got tired of it and built an adjustable torque rod
Worked great so on to the next project.
The lift also change the angle of the drag link. Not much, but enough to make the steering wheel sit off to the left. So I looked around for a 3/4" heavy duty turnbuckle. Could not find anything in the local area. So went ahead used 3/4" coupler. I knew it would not give me the fine adjustment needed. But I thought it would help bring it back to near straight. It worked real well, the steering wheel is almost perfectly straight.
After I got done and painted I noticed the adjusters on tie rods of another vehicle. And thought dang that would have worked great. I could have went to the local junk yard and found one off a heavy truck and it would have worked great. But oh well this worked well also.
Either way the old runner tracks great down the road, and with the torque rod fixed, and the drag link at the proper lengths. All the vibration I had before is gone.
I bought a engbldr stock head with 268 cam from babyfood1217, he said he bought it for a rebuild and then ended up buying a oregon engine builder engine. He never used it, and gave me a good deal on it. It should be in on Wednesday.
Might be able to get the head on the short block next weekend. Baby steps.
Later
Last edited by TinMan; 07-18-2010 at 04:59 PM.
07-18-2010, 05:50 PM
#22
nice work Todd .. subscribing ..
one thing on your engine block .. paint the front of the block .. by the timing chain (the exposed metal)
otherwise , it wont take long to ruen the "look"
nice work .. hope you dont mind my 2C
.
one thing on your engine block .. paint the front of the block .. by the timing chain (the exposed metal)
otherwise , it wont take long to ruen the "look"
nice work .. hope you dont mind my 2C
.
Last edited by slacker; 07-18-2010 at 07:03 PM.
07-18-2010, 05:56 PM
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I'll always take as much advice as can get from the pro's. Thanks
I know exactly the area that you are talking about. I'll check those area's tomorrow.
Thanks it will be slow.
I know exactly the area that you are talking about. I'll check those area's tomorrow.
Thanks it will be slow.
07-19-2010, 01:26 AM
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yep to low for high steer. I did not know it when I bought the suspension. But thats ok, high steer would be money I dont need to spend right now. Set up this way the push pull is doing fine, and I only plan to put 32's on it when these tires are shot.
Thanks for the encouragement.
Thanks for the encouragement.
07-24-2010, 07:45 PM
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Ya know, I been doing some thinking, which is dangerous.
I know the old runner is low for high steer, but I don't see any reason I can't put a hydro assist on it. That would make it feel like driving a sports car.
I don't know maybe sometime in the future. Money to spend in other area's right now.
Later
I know the old runner is low for high steer, but I don't see any reason I can't put a hydro assist on it. That would make it feel like driving a sports car.
I don't know maybe sometime in the future. Money to spend in other area's right now.
Later
08-09-2010, 06:25 PM
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Been a little slow lately but the motor is all mocked up. the proper bolts in the proper places, and all brand new. Now to order a Toyota head gasket. and finish the final assembly.
Still need to pickup a few little odds and ends. But I should be able to do that this payday.
And I started my rear tube bumper this weekend. I'm going for the same style as dirtco built for his.
Frame brackets are done, but that is as far as I got Sunday.
And this time I took the time to mark them out on some 20ga sheet metal so I have template.
later
Still need to pickup a few little odds and ends. But I should be able to do that this payday.
And I started my rear tube bumper this weekend. I'm going for the same style as dirtco built for his.
Frame brackets are done, but that is as far as I got Sunday.
And this time I took the time to mark them out on some 20ga sheet metal so I have template.
later
Last edited by TinMan; 08-09-2010 at 06:28 PM.
08-10-2010, 01:41 AM
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Thanks build is slow right now, and might get slower. We have a house sitting empty in another state, trying to sell. Hard to make two mortgage payments and still have money to play with vehicles.
Gary I will read toys thread again. I have thought about longer shackles to gain the clearance needed. Right now the shackle angle would support longer shackles. I would definitely like to put on a high steer. The push pull sucks. But then for the cost of the high steer kit, and gear box, I could buy a hydro assist kit, and most likely that would make a world of difference.
Later
Gary I will read toys thread again. I have thought about longer shackles to gain the clearance needed. Right now the shackle angle would support longer shackles. I would definitely like to put on a high steer. The push pull sucks. But then for the cost of the high steer kit, and gear box, I could buy a hydro assist kit, and most likely that would make a world of difference.
Later
08-10-2010, 02:21 AM
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i have considered that as well (i still have the ancient push/pull too), but it still doesnt take care of the tie rod just asking to get bent up into modern art
08-10-2010, 06:49 PM
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Gary, I think if you got rid of the stock tie rod ends, installed GM 1 tons, reamed out the steering arms it would be fine. Heck for the cost of IFS gear box, and high steer, you can almost go full hydro. I have been watching for a heavy duty rack and pinion at the local pick and pull. I think that might be a good poor mans hydro.
later
later
08-10-2010, 06:54 PM
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No pictures tonight because it got dark.
For a while I have been having a hard time starting the runner. intermittent, I would turn the key and the starter would just click. Did it to me again tonight leaving work. So I stopped at radio shack and picked a 40amp auto relay part# 275-001. Made my own hot shot for the starter. Worked like a champ. Took about 1 1/2 hour to do. I need to put some seem sealer on the post end of the relay once I drive it for a few days and know that it is all good. Only cost me $7.00. But I had the 10ga wire, shrink wrap, solder, and connectors. Man what a difference that has made already. I'll take a few pictures tomorrow and post up.
Later
For a while I have been having a hard time starting the runner. intermittent, I would turn the key and the starter would just click. Did it to me again tonight leaving work. So I stopped at radio shack and picked a 40amp auto relay part# 275-001. Made my own hot shot for the starter. Worked like a champ. Took about 1 1/2 hour to do. I need to put some seem sealer on the post end of the relay once I drive it for a few days and know that it is all good. Only cost me $7.00. But I had the 10ga wire, shrink wrap, solder, and connectors. Man what a difference that has made already. I'll take a few pictures tomorrow and post up.
Later
10-08-2010, 01:52 AM
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Been a while but I about have the garage cleaned out and ready to start on the old runner again.
I plan to pull it into the garage and basically start at the ground. I am ordering a TG classic 4" front, and 5" rear lift, V6 4.88 rear diff with grizzly, and 4 cylinder front 4.88 with grizzly, 4.7/1 transfer gears, and a few other small items.
I kept the IFS rear axle out of the 87 I just tore apart, and plan to use it under the 85 runner. It will get cleaned up and POR15. If I can work it into the budget I am going to do rear disks. If not then the drums will work for a year or so until funds are built back up.
I plan to pull it into the garage, pull the old engine, front and rear axles, fuel tank, then I am going to raise the body about 4" so that I can clean the top of the frame, and POR15, then replace the body bushings. Once that is done I will do the front and rear lift, along with the freshened up axles, and POR15 the rest of the frame. Once it is setting on the wheels again, V6 brake booster and MC, then Paint. Last but not least finish the engine and transfer case.
Right now I am trying to figure out the best way to raise the body. No lift, but I do have two floor jacks.
Later
I plan to pull it into the garage and basically start at the ground. I am ordering a TG classic 4" front, and 5" rear lift, V6 4.88 rear diff with grizzly, and 4 cylinder front 4.88 with grizzly, 4.7/1 transfer gears, and a few other small items.
I kept the IFS rear axle out of the 87 I just tore apart, and plan to use it under the 85 runner. It will get cleaned up and POR15. If I can work it into the budget I am going to do rear disks. If not then the drums will work for a year or so until funds are built back up.
I plan to pull it into the garage, pull the old engine, front and rear axles, fuel tank, then I am going to raise the body about 4" so that I can clean the top of the frame, and POR15, then replace the body bushings. Once that is done I will do the front and rear lift, along with the freshened up axles, and POR15 the rest of the frame. Once it is setting on the wheels again, V6 brake booster and MC, then Paint. Last but not least finish the engine and transfer case.
Right now I am trying to figure out the best way to raise the body. No lift, but I do have two floor jacks.
Later
10-14-2010, 02:06 AM
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Thought it was about time for an update.
The 87 pickup is out of the garage and the runner is pulled in and up on jack stands.
I have recently ordered.
4.88 front and rear 3rds with Grizzly lockers. Rear third is a V6 housing.
TG 4" classic front lift with high steer.
TG 5" classic rear lift.
And a few other odds and ends.
Got in with a local company, and do not have to pay shipping or sales tax, so that saved a ton. Should be in sometime next week.
Going to order some black 15x10 steelies, and 33x12.5 goodyear MT/R. Not going with bead locks, just rim stiffiners.
I just about have the rear stripped down, rear axle, gas tank, spare, etc. Plan is to raise the body, strip the frame, POR15, install new body bushings, then lower the lower body back, and install the rear lift. I am going with a IFS rear axle. I don't think I am going to do anything special to it at this point. New bearings seals, stock brakes, and install the new 3rd.
Once that is complete I am going to finish the rear bumper.
Then move on to the front.
Once the front is done, it will be strip the engine, paint the engine bay, install the new engine, and then on to the body.
We will see how long all this takes.
Later
The 87 pickup is out of the garage and the runner is pulled in and up on jack stands.
I have recently ordered.
4.88 front and rear 3rds with Grizzly lockers. Rear third is a V6 housing.
TG 4" classic front lift with high steer.
TG 5" classic rear lift.
And a few other odds and ends.
Got in with a local company, and do not have to pay shipping or sales tax, so that saved a ton. Should be in sometime next week.
Going to order some black 15x10 steelies, and 33x12.5 goodyear MT/R. Not going with bead locks, just rim stiffiners.
I just about have the rear stripped down, rear axle, gas tank, spare, etc. Plan is to raise the body, strip the frame, POR15, install new body bushings, then lower the lower body back, and install the rear lift. I am going with a IFS rear axle. I don't think I am going to do anything special to it at this point. New bearings seals, stock brakes, and install the new 3rd.
Once that is complete I am going to finish the rear bumper.
Then move on to the front.
Once the front is done, it will be strip the engine, paint the engine bay, install the new engine, and then on to the body.
We will see how long all this takes.
Later
