jacumja

N8, I called and those rims and tires belong to
SCknight one of our fellow members. Super nice guy, what a small world we have, right. He yanked them off a lifted 95 because they were too small. We talked about 300 which is good for both of us.
However he said they were not rotated properly by the previous owner of the 4runner and theres a x stlye wear pattern on the tires but they are all equal tread left. I hope I'm describing that right. I just don't want to drive that hour and a half, pay that for em, pay to have them lug centric balanced, have an alignment done and then be told the wobbles are still there due to bad tread wear.
Also there mud terrains and those kuhmos are crazy loud and wear fast on daily driving. I appreciate you taking the time to find them. Please message back any thoughts on the wear pattern part.

jacumja

Azca I just walked out to measure the rim to the fender, 12 inches on both sides.
I know the alignment was done wrong. The tech said that was the best he could do given the wear on the tires.
Thanks for the input, what would cranking the torsion bars down to hard do.
I forgot to mention
My speedometer bounces off by 1 to 5 mph and my cruise control goes up and down by 5 mph ever 3 seconds when I try to use it. I'm guessing this has something to do with the speed sensor having trouble reading the wheels and tires.
Then again the speedometer is seperate from the speed sensor totally. I guess we'll see when I swap stuff out and then start trouble shooting.

[N8]

I would look elsewhere given that they've got "issues" and you're looking for AT's anyway.

I still like the idea of 33x10.50 AT's with 15x7 Soft 8's but that's not gonna be dirt cheap like a set of used rims/tires

jacumja

N8 you didn't exactly pick out a mad expensive set up for me to start with. Those 8s can be at my door for 180.00 total. The tires around 500.
Thing is I buy these rims and tires and then find the tires aren't right I gotta buy that 500 in tires anyway.
I called this huge junkyard up here yesterday and he says hes got 12 4runners sitting out there most from the nineties.
Anybody need anything while I'm out there.

jacumja

Here are the tires and rims he's selling if anybody wants a better look.

Azca

I am not sure if they have weakened or if someone adjusted them to get a better ride. Cranking them up will firm up the ride a bit but may also help the handling.

Crank them up so that you have about 13.5 inches, that will cure the rubbing. I believe the 13.5 is stock measurement, if you search this forum under sway bar adjustment or BJ (ball joint) spacers you will find the correct measurement. Make absolutely sure you take all the weight off the front of the vehicle by jacking it up before you start, if not you will snap the adjusting nuts. Again make absolutely sure you crank both sides the same number of times. Measure so that they are about the same, drive it around a bit to set the springs and check/adjust them again.

After you put on the new rims and tires and crank the torsion bars get it aligned again, don't do it before as you will just be throwing money away. Hopefully after you do this your problems should be taken care of!

Azca

Sorry about the speedo, this is completely out of my league. I think I recall the speed sensor is located in the transmission, perhaps someone else can help on this??

[N8]

Tbar crank won't cure rubbing. Just makes it harder to get it to rub. It will raise & stiffen your front suspension.

JDMSLIK

wtf man settle down. Good for you, you got a good tech. I was implying towards a previous owner getting a hack job fix on the frame. Or selling a vehicle with a known alignment problem.

You may want to include all known information next time you ask for diagnostic help. Saves time rambling on about pulling motors with oak trees.

JDMSLIK

Another thing not every bent frame can be seen visually under the hoist.

jacumja

JDMSLIK
I don't need to "settle down" as you put it, I'm not upset. I think your spending way too much time reading things into peoples replies. For the sake of the forum please refrain from acting like one of these...

But not to worry there is a plan of action for you.
Step 1. Move out of your mom's basement.
Step 2. Change out of if not wash the spider man pj's you've been wearing for the last week. The dna stains on it are big enough to be zoned commercial for god's sake.
Step 3. I recommend you stop acting like such a " hummer driver" or jack off, whichever you prefer.

If this picture offends any yotatech members, you also need to get more uv rays.

gary96360

lol thats a bit harsh

Lumpy

Alright, I have my 33X12.5, got them on this evening and no rubbing on normal driving even at full lock both ways. I do not have this lifted at all, I'm measuring 13.5 from front rim to fender. I have very little room between the back of the front fender (by the mud flap) didn't measure, less than an inch 5/8 or so, at full lock...

tc

Try at about 1/2 lock and see how much room you have - bet it's next to nothing.

Azca

From what I understand, without a lift, you will experience some rubbing with the tire in full compression while turning. If you don't do a whole lot of wheeling this won't be a problem for you. If you are hitting it hard you may want to consider a mild lift or BJ spacers.

I agree that cranking on the bars will not only increase the harshness of the ride but will also limit travel so that should be avoided. The BJ spacers can give you up to 1.5 inches but you may also have to throw in a diff drop so that the CV joints don't bind. Doing this may gain you all the room you need and even let you take some of the pressure off the bars to gain a bit more travel. To do this you are looking somewhere in the area of $250 to $450 (you will also need shocks with more travel as well as new springs or spacers in back). Or you could use a BFH and beat the metal a bit to gain some room down under.

In either case I like the 12 inch tire to get a bit more floatation and traction. I have 10.5s now and dig more than I would like...

tc

Cranking the tbars does not limit your travel - the bumpstops are still in the same place. It WILL make it take more force to compress the suspension that far.

The "extra" traction gained by the extra width is arguable. The extra width dramatically affects the fitment and the stress on the steering components though.

What are you airing down to?

Azca

I agree with you, the bump stops are the absolute limiting factor, especially when they drop, but with the extra tension it is harder to get them to flex as you said. That and the extra bounce you get (rough ride) may not be worth it if you crank them up to gain lift. I have heard, both ways, that disconnecting the sway bars will and will not really help this. I still have to believe removing them is an asset when you want each side to work independantly.

When I am running around in sand, driving up loose cinders or rock everything I can get on the ground helps. I also have a problem digging with my MTs in the loose stuff. Yep to be expected but by having a wider tire there is more area/ridges to grab and dig with. The yokohamas seem to be a bit narrower than others so airing down does help but not as much as I would like.

I have heard that going to a wider tire does not improve your contact patch on pavement as the CP is dependent on weight of the vehicle. Not sure this is absolutely true, if it were it wouldn't necessarily better to go wider on a performance car for instance. Obviously lower aspect ratio on the tires, tread compound, tread pattern, tire construction and on and on will impact this as well.

Lumpy

I'm sure I'm going to have to lift it before I get too crazy with her. I know she'll rub if she's bounced around too much. That will come with time. Probably 2" BJ and Crusier coils.

I also left the sway bars disconnected when I changed the lower control arms. It tends to roll a bit but not too terrible. I want them to work more independently from each other.

Azca

The consensus has been 1.5" max on the BJs as it puts quite a strain on the front CV joints. I put 1.5 on mine and had to drop the diff to make up the difference. The front right bound up tight, dropped the diff about an inch and have no problems.

I bought mine off of Ebay for $65 with shipping, added the diff drop and sway bar drop for another $40. You will want to get a die grinder if your are installing the spacers otherwise you will be there all day trying to get it done. You can get some spacers for the rear but that is only a bandage, most runners suffer from butt sag so new springs will help not only the lift but the ride quality as well. Finally new shocks will probably be needed as your travel has increased and the shocks will more than likely bottom out and tear themselves apart. I did my complete lift for $375 complete. I also changed the ball joints since I was there anyway.

Lumpy

Sorry, I guess this is a thread jack...

Alright, the front really does not need much so I'll keep it down to a inch or so...I know the rear will need some help though. My main concern right now is the rear...I know I'll need larger coils, longer shocks, and I know I'll have to get a drop for the goofy bar in the back to keep the axle centered. She'll really rub if I load her up for a weekender.