Why does everyone go with a chevy or ford smallblock??
#24
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Well I've struck a never here so next time I'll keep my oppinions to myself.As far as me knowing about motors goes I've built them since I was 8yrs old with my dad so I think I know what I'm talking about.Oh and let me rephrase my statement they dont have enough tourque for me.
James
#25
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Thread Starter
If you really did build engine since you were 8 then you wouldn't be starting a thread "why does everyone go with a SBF or SBC?" now would you? The UZ motors do not make low end torque like the American V8's do. UZ's like high revs not stock SBF's and SBC's. The 1UZ came in cars not trucks. It is still cheaper to put an American V8 in the truck than it would be to put a 1UZ in. Your stuck with fuel injection and an automatic trans with the UZ motors except the few that make adapters for the manual conversions. With an American V8 you can go auto or stick, carb or fuel injected and parts are cheap and easy to get.
James
James
#27
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hey ford and chevys do have more than decent touqe for the job ,with right exhaust and bolt ons wowwwwww forget what your driving haaaaaa olds are decent motors but like said has not a lot of choices in cheaper power gainers like ford and forsure chevy if you want to do it be are guest and let us no how it comes out . Remember bigger engines require lots more work is possible . if you dream you can build it[/IMG] EVERYONE FOR THERE SELF
#29
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John, Nice Truck!!! I almost can't believe that a 454 will fit in a Yota! lol
I drove a 454 in High School and loved it, but hated the mileage. What kinda mileage do you get with the rat motor in the runner? 10-15?
I drove a 454 in High School and loved it, but hated the mileage. What kinda mileage do you get with the rat motor in the runner? 10-15?
#33
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the SBC is arguably the cheapest motor to build. parts are common and plentiful. i put a SBC in my jeep, replacing the AMC 360. my chevy puts out 310ft-lbs STOCK, so its plenty torque for my big ass jeep. here's the best part.... when i'm out in BFE and break something in my motor and need a part, i don't have to wait 3-5 days for the damn part like i did with the AMC motor. i can pretty much find parts at the local 7-11. how's that for smart?
not that motor swaps are for everyone. most people don't really need to do it. and its not easy. i've also swapped out to a manual transmission (SM465) and NP 205 t-case (replacing the quadratrac) so i had even more hurdles to jump through. not only do you need a conversion radiator (and some way to mount it), but custom motor mounts (i bought mounts for FSJs through novak), custom trans/t-case mount, and of course custom driveshafts. when i went manual i decided to go with a hydraulic clutch instead of fabbing up linkage that would twist and become inop. off road. unfortunately the vacuum brake booster was in the way for the clutch MC, so i upgraded to hydroboost brakes. i also went with an aluminum racing radator and electric fan setup, so fabbing some custom mounts and working the electrical was needed there. not to mention matching the donor vehicles wiring harness with the jeep's harness to use the fuel injection. its not for the faint of hart!
would i put a SBC in a toyota? no. i need the v-8 power to move my 5,000 lbs of full size jeep, but with as light as these pickups are adding more weight doesn't make sense. plus i don't want to split my fuel economy in half. i suppose for someone that is into mudding, snow blazing or something that is heavy hp or torque it would make sense, but not for the average off-roader to rock crawler. deep gears make up all the difference here.
Al
not that motor swaps are for everyone. most people don't really need to do it. and its not easy. i've also swapped out to a manual transmission (SM465) and NP 205 t-case (replacing the quadratrac) so i had even more hurdles to jump through. not only do you need a conversion radiator (and some way to mount it), but custom motor mounts (i bought mounts for FSJs through novak), custom trans/t-case mount, and of course custom driveshafts. when i went manual i decided to go with a hydraulic clutch instead of fabbing up linkage that would twist and become inop. off road. unfortunately the vacuum brake booster was in the way for the clutch MC, so i upgraded to hydroboost brakes. i also went with an aluminum racing radator and electric fan setup, so fabbing some custom mounts and working the electrical was needed there. not to mention matching the donor vehicles wiring harness with the jeep's harness to use the fuel injection. its not for the faint of hart!
would i put a SBC in a toyota? no. i need the v-8 power to move my 5,000 lbs of full size jeep, but with as light as these pickups are adding more weight doesn't make sense. plus i don't want to split my fuel economy in half. i suppose for someone that is into mudding, snow blazing or something that is heavy hp or torque it would make sense, but not for the average off-roader to rock crawler. deep gears make up all the difference here.
Al
#34
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What the hell. Have any of you ever crawled or wheeled before? You don't need 400 Ft/Lbs of torque to get over a rock or up a hill. It's all in your gearing and driving style.
To answer your question though, because those swaps you mentioned are actually fairly easy and decently cheap, IMO. Anyway, so you say small block's don't have any decent torque even when modified? Do you know what you're talking about? Because my EFI 402 stroker built off of a LS2 aluminum bottom end that's going in my '00 Taco seems to be disagreeing with you.
To answer your question though, because those swaps you mentioned are actually fairly easy and decently cheap, IMO. Anyway, so you say small block's don't have any decent torque even when modified? Do you know what you're talking about? Because my EFI 402 stroker built off of a LS2 aluminum bottom end that's going in my '00 Taco seems to be disagreeing with you.
Last edited by Diesel_29; 06-22-2008 at 03:44 PM.
#35
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i have a mild 383 stroker that i pulled out of my iroc to put in my 4runner by winter, eagle crank,mild cam,ported and polished factory heads,stock intake and stock tuning put down 503 ft/lbs at the wheels, i have been told by a buddy that works at the shop the the dyno was reading low at the time oh and that was at 2500 RPM
#37
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Thread Starter
Sorry I have'nt been on in awhile my sister and brother inlaw were in a wreck (they rolled my dads 4runner nine times and lived should be getting pics soon).Me and my mom moved back to VA to help them get back on there feet so I've been busy for awhile.Anyway you all show good examples of trucks like the BB454!I just think that sbf and sbc were made to be high revers like the lt1 but then again a lt1 is a whole different beast.I'll definetly try the olds though but a few years done the road.At the moment I need a new job and then I'll worry about the yota.
#38
Registered User
actually the 350 i guess was meant more towards high revving than torque, but still put out quite a bit of it. now the 327 has MORE torque than the 350. weird, but true. but for typical crawling, a 22r is fine, there hasnt been a thing my truck wont pull me out of.
#40
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why the change to a "domestic" small block? More Torque and Horsepower for less money. I've built more than my fair share of engines including a Nissan 2000, an MGB, Flat head Fords, A model Fords, and the SBC, BBC, and SBF, MBF, and BBF 's and the cost per pony is cheapest on the SBC ,usually, 289, 307, and 327's tend to buck the trend. 4 Nissan +.0020 cast pistons cost as much as 8 BBC +.0060 hyperutectic pistons. Heads and blocks are dime a dozen in the US (I got plenty lying around). And 700r4's TH350, and TH400 are dirt cheap and will mate with alot of transfercases