2l-te bolt up question ?
02-05-2017, 08:22 PM
#1
2l-te bolt up question ?
Hello Everyone, Will a JDM 2L-TE that came out of a Hilux that had a 5 Speed manual Trans bolt up to my 5 Speed trans in my 93 pick-up ?
So can I just buy the Engine or will I need the Entire unit. Eng, Trans, transfer case ??
Thanks
Clancy
So can I just buy the Engine or will I need the Entire unit. Eng, Trans, transfer case ??
Thanks
Clancy
02-06-2017, 05:19 AM
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From what I've seen you will need the bell housing from the tranny that was behind the 2lte. This is due to the starter being on the opposite side, if I remember correct. Which transmission do you currently have?
02-06-2017, 08:07 PM
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I found this thread with some good info. The first few posts arent so good, but it gets better further down.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...t-swap-288908/
• *READ THIS 1ST* Toyota diesel conversions FAQ *updated 1/22/13*
05-11-2004, 01:55 PM
Ok, I get so many emails concerning this subject that I thought it appropriate to take the time to right up a little FAQ on toyota diesels and converting USA/Canada trucks.
Q: Which years were they originally available in the USA/Canada?
A: The toyota trucks were available in 2wd for in 1981-1986. The engines themselves changed but they all share a similar design (IDI inline 4cylinder). You could get the 4wd models in 1985-86 in a turbo diesel form (2L-T). Although some of these 4wd versions I have seen with a 2L non turbo.
Q: What are the engines that were available with these trucks?
A: There were 3 truck diesel engines available here in the states.
1L-the first diesel engine available here in the US. A slow but rugged engine. It only was available NA
2L- A larger displacement 2.2L overhead cam inline 4 cylinder. A little better power than the 1L but no powerhouse.
2L-T- A turbo charged version of the 2L which in later models featured a roller rocker valve train and lower compression to compensate for the extra heat created by forced induction. The final version available from Toyota sold here in the USA and Canada.
Q: Are parts hard to find for these engines?
A: Not too bad. Some stuff can be found at NAPA and dealerships. It really depends what you are looking for. Some parts are no longer available so finding them requires a creative thinker. Since Toyota built these things in a modular fashion, most parts can be had from your local dealership. It helps to find the part number in the Toyota EPC here:
http://www.showmesome.info/hilux/inf...load_links.htm
Q: I want to convert my USA/Canada truck to diesel. What engine/combo is the easiest to convert and cheapest?
A: All three engines share the same bolt pattern. So you can really use any of them.
Q: What is the ideal truck to convert?
A: 4x4 trucks/4runners from 1985-1995 with the 22re gas engine and w56 transmission should bolt right up. The electrical will be a little more involved but nothing too difficult.
Q: Which transmission should I use for my conversion?
A: The w56 transmission is what you will need for any L series toyota diesel conversion. This is a 5-speed overdrive 4x4 transmission with a removable bellhousing. You will need to purchase a diesel bellhousing and swap out the gas bellhousing for the diesel one in order to mate the engine trans up sucessfully. The reason for this is that on the 22re the starter is on the passenger's side of the car. On the diesel, the starter is on the driver's side of the car. If you were to try and get around this, the turbo would basically be touching the starter and it wouldn't fit. The W56 was standard on 4x4 trucks and 4 runners from 1985-1995.
Q: Which engine would you recommend from your experiences?
A: The 1L and the 2L are not really worth the time. They are painfully slow and in a 4x4 setting, they are greatly underpowered. Pretty good for a little 2wd truck though. To convert a 2wd truck just buy the 2wd diesel trans complete with bellhousing and install. There are 3 more engine available only in Europe that are highly recommended for anyone doing a diesel conversion. They are:
2L-TE- Same block as the 2L and 2L-T but has an electronically controlled timing advance module in the injection pump which gives is much better response time under load. It controls mroe finely the fuel delivery and has a larger advance curve giving it a slight Hp increase of 10hp from the 2LT. The bad news with this engine is that; due to a casting flaw from Toyota, they are highly prone to cracking between the exhaust valves requiring a replacement head. Toyota issued a TSB (technical service bulletin) regarding the casting issue and ultimately redesigned the head with a new casting to alleviate the problem with cracking. The new cylinder casting is identical to the cylinder heads used on the 3L engines and can be purchased through Toyota USA for approx $600 usd. This coupled with the fact that they are not exactly powerhouses make them a suitable but not ideal candidate for conversion. Additionally, wiring is comparable to a 1kzte conversion.
3L- A 2.8 liter sharing the same block as the 2L and 2L-T/2L-TE. A manually controlled injection pump so they are not too complicated to wire up. Since they are not turbocharged, they are not as powerful as the 2LTE's but for a small 2WD truck, they're great.
Q:How difficult are these things to wire up?
A: Depends on which engine you're dealing with. For the 1L. 2L. 2LT's, and 3L's there is really one wire to hook up for the fuel cut solenoid. This basically allows fuel to reach the inector lines. Wiring up the temp sending unit etc requires a bit of reading but nothing too difficult.
Q:What all needs to be swapped out with my gas truck if I were to buy a half cut?
A:You will need to take out the following:
engine
trans
fuel tank
dash
wiring harness
driveshafts
I'm sure theres more but if these dont deter you then go ahead.
Q: I cant get my a/c system to cycle on and off like it should. It was working fine before the conversion. What's the problem?
A: All toyota trucks and 4 runners from 1990-1995 use what's called an a/c amplifier. This basically is a logic circuit that takes 3 different signals and then decides if your system is ready to operate.
1 signal is the tachometer signal. Even if the truck is not equipped with a factory tachometer, it still gets this signal from the factory. This tells the a/c amp that the engine is running. Then it needs an idle up signal which it basically sends a +12v to increase the engine RPM. To use this feature, you can use an idle up solenoid from an 85-88 celica or truck with te 22re engine. it's got 2 wires, 1 12v and other is ground. When energised is pulls and not, it retracts.Last is the switch in the dash. This is the sending unit which sends the power to the a/c amp which tells it to turn on. If you have all of these signals, your a/c will function flawlessly. This info took me 2 months of reading schematics to learn.
Q: there's not much info regarding Toyota diesels on the internet. Where is a good place to start reading?
A: Right here as well ashttp://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/ which is an Australian Toyota board. Very helpful bunch over there!
If you have any other questions that are not convered in this FAQ feel free to PM me through this board. I will help in any way I can. Todd
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...t-swap-288908/
• *READ THIS 1ST* Toyota diesel conversions FAQ *updated 1/22/13*
05-11-2004, 01:55 PM
Ok, I get so many emails concerning this subject that I thought it appropriate to take the time to right up a little FAQ on toyota diesels and converting USA/Canada trucks.
Q: Which years were they originally available in the USA/Canada?
A: The toyota trucks were available in 2wd for in 1981-1986. The engines themselves changed but they all share a similar design (IDI inline 4cylinder). You could get the 4wd models in 1985-86 in a turbo diesel form (2L-T). Although some of these 4wd versions I have seen with a 2L non turbo.
Q: What are the engines that were available with these trucks?
A: There were 3 truck diesel engines available here in the states.
1L-the first diesel engine available here in the US. A slow but rugged engine. It only was available NA
2L- A larger displacement 2.2L overhead cam inline 4 cylinder. A little better power than the 1L but no powerhouse.
2L-T- A turbo charged version of the 2L which in later models featured a roller rocker valve train and lower compression to compensate for the extra heat created by forced induction. The final version available from Toyota sold here in the USA and Canada.
Q: Are parts hard to find for these engines?
A: Not too bad. Some stuff can be found at NAPA and dealerships. It really depends what you are looking for. Some parts are no longer available so finding them requires a creative thinker. Since Toyota built these things in a modular fashion, most parts can be had from your local dealership. It helps to find the part number in the Toyota EPC here:
http://www.showmesome.info/hilux/inf...load_links.htm
Q: I want to convert my USA/Canada truck to diesel. What engine/combo is the easiest to convert and cheapest?
A: All three engines share the same bolt pattern. So you can really use any of them.
Q: What is the ideal truck to convert?
A: 4x4 trucks/4runners from 1985-1995 with the 22re gas engine and w56 transmission should bolt right up. The electrical will be a little more involved but nothing too difficult.
Q: Which transmission should I use for my conversion?
A: The w56 transmission is what you will need for any L series toyota diesel conversion. This is a 5-speed overdrive 4x4 transmission with a removable bellhousing. You will need to purchase a diesel bellhousing and swap out the gas bellhousing for the diesel one in order to mate the engine trans up sucessfully. The reason for this is that on the 22re the starter is on the passenger's side of the car. On the diesel, the starter is on the driver's side of the car. If you were to try and get around this, the turbo would basically be touching the starter and it wouldn't fit. The W56 was standard on 4x4 trucks and 4 runners from 1985-1995.
Q: Which engine would you recommend from your experiences?
A: The 1L and the 2L are not really worth the time. They are painfully slow and in a 4x4 setting, they are greatly underpowered. Pretty good for a little 2wd truck though. To convert a 2wd truck just buy the 2wd diesel trans complete with bellhousing and install. There are 3 more engine available only in Europe that are highly recommended for anyone doing a diesel conversion. They are:
2L-TE- Same block as the 2L and 2L-T but has an electronically controlled timing advance module in the injection pump which gives is much better response time under load. It controls mroe finely the fuel delivery and has a larger advance curve giving it a slight Hp increase of 10hp from the 2LT. The bad news with this engine is that; due to a casting flaw from Toyota, they are highly prone to cracking between the exhaust valves requiring a replacement head. Toyota issued a TSB (technical service bulletin) regarding the casting issue and ultimately redesigned the head with a new casting to alleviate the problem with cracking. The new cylinder casting is identical to the cylinder heads used on the 3L engines and can be purchased through Toyota USA for approx $600 usd. This coupled with the fact that they are not exactly powerhouses make them a suitable but not ideal candidate for conversion. Additionally, wiring is comparable to a 1kzte conversion.
3L- A 2.8 liter sharing the same block as the 2L and 2L-T/2L-TE. A manually controlled injection pump so they are not too complicated to wire up. Since they are not turbocharged, they are not as powerful as the 2LTE's but for a small 2WD truck, they're great.
Q:How difficult are these things to wire up?
A: Depends on which engine you're dealing with. For the 1L. 2L. 2LT's, and 3L's there is really one wire to hook up for the fuel cut solenoid. This basically allows fuel to reach the inector lines. Wiring up the temp sending unit etc requires a bit of reading but nothing too difficult.
Q:What all needs to be swapped out with my gas truck if I were to buy a half cut?
A:You will need to take out the following:
engine
trans
fuel tank
dash
wiring harness
driveshafts
I'm sure theres more but if these dont deter you then go ahead.
Q: I cant get my a/c system to cycle on and off like it should. It was working fine before the conversion. What's the problem?
A: All toyota trucks and 4 runners from 1990-1995 use what's called an a/c amplifier. This basically is a logic circuit that takes 3 different signals and then decides if your system is ready to operate.
1 signal is the tachometer signal. Even if the truck is not equipped with a factory tachometer, it still gets this signal from the factory. This tells the a/c amp that the engine is running. Then it needs an idle up signal which it basically sends a +12v to increase the engine RPM. To use this feature, you can use an idle up solenoid from an 85-88 celica or truck with te 22re engine. it's got 2 wires, 1 12v and other is ground. When energised is pulls and not, it retracts.Last is the switch in the dash. This is the sending unit which sends the power to the a/c amp which tells it to turn on. If you have all of these signals, your a/c will function flawlessly. This info took me 2 months of reading schematics to learn.
Q: there's not much info regarding Toyota diesels on the internet. Where is a good place to start reading?
A: Right here as well ashttp://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/ which is an Australian Toyota board. Very helpful bunch over there!
If you have any other questions that are not convered in this FAQ feel free to PM me through this board. I will help in any way I can. Todd
02-14-2017, 07:40 PM
#5
Hi Atlas,
Its the R150 Transmission.
I've Ended up getting a 2L-T and a Diesel bell housing. to go between the Engine and Trans.
I'm sure I'll need many more parts before I'm done.
Thanks for your help.
Its the R150 Transmission.
I've Ended up getting a 2L-T and a Diesel bell housing. to go between the Engine and Trans.
I'm sure I'll need many more parts before I'm done.
Thanks for your help.
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10-22-2018, 04:38 AM
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The engine may have different engine mount brackets like some of the other Toyota diesels . This means you have to add your old ones to the donor engine.
The air intake may face in a different direction, but again you can probably use your old one on the donor engine.
And maybe the outlet for the radiator hose will also point the wrong way.
This is because they were fitted to a wide range of Hiluxes , Landcruisers , Dynas and Hiace over the years.
If any of them are radically different ,it will be the 5L
If you dont get all the answers here try some of the aussie forums where a few of the guys have swapped 3L for 5L , but not many do engine swaps on Hiaces.
The air intake may face in a different direction, but again you can probably use your old one on the donor engine.
And maybe the outlet for the radiator hose will also point the wrong way.
This is because they were fitted to a wide range of Hiluxes , Landcruisers , Dynas and Hiace over the years.
If any of them are radically different ,it will be the 5L
If you dont get all the answers here try some of the aussie forums where a few of the guys have swapped 3L for 5L , but not many do engine swaps on Hiaces.
10-25-2018, 03:07 PM
#9
3L swap 2¢
I recently swapped a 3L into a 1994 4x4 pickup. I used the W56 tranny from a 1986 pickup. I bought a bell housing off eBay for about $130. I recommend lifting the cab during the mounting process to allow more room to work. Since I started with a 3VZE, my mounts were too far back which caused me issues when I set the cab back down. My oil pan was also an issue as it came into contact with my front diff. I remedied this by lifting the cab, engine and transmission until the pan cleared the pig.
As far as the air cleaner goes, I chucked it and built a cold air intake complete with high flow filter and snorkel. I swapped battery and air box locations as well. I highly recommend intercooling your system. Also a pyrometer, boost guage, and oil pressure guages are a must!
I wired my glow plugs to a relay and dash switch. 5 seconds on the switch before cranking, and it fires right up.
As far as the air cleaner goes, I chucked it and built a cold air intake complete with high flow filter and snorkel. I swapped battery and air box locations as well. I highly recommend intercooling your system. Also a pyrometer, boost guage, and oil pressure guages are a must!
I wired my glow plugs to a relay and dash switch. 5 seconds on the switch before cranking, and it fires right up.
06-13-2020, 09:31 AM
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If anyone is still on this I'd love some help. Putting a 2LT circa 1986 into a 95 4 runner with 3l auto. Do I need to change the oil pan as I had to do on a previous conversion into an 83 4x4 with solid axle?
