3.4 Swaps The 3.4 V6 Toyota engine

Toyota Motorhome 3.0 Swap

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Old 07-14-2011, 04:51 PM
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I'm sure there's a way to get bigger pics in here; can you point me to the instructions?
Old 07-14-2011, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Captainjack
I'm sure there's a way to get bigger pics in here; can you point me to the instructions?
upload your pics to a free hosting service like photobucket.com
than copy and paste the [img]yourpic[/img] code into your post.
I probably have over 1000 pics...easy to organize albums etc,
works awesome.
Old 07-15-2011, 06:48 AM
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Thanks for the help.
If I did this right you should be able to find larger pics below:

http://photobucket.com/motorhomeengineswap

Last edited by Captainjack; 07-15-2011 at 07:02 AM.
Old 07-15-2011, 10:54 AM
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use the IMG code like this
Old 07-21-2011, 01:54 PM
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We got started on the 3.4 remanufacture today:
http://photobucket.com/motorhomeengineswap
Old 08-01-2011, 12:12 PM
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Today we started assembling the donor 3.4. It ended up being .020 over on the bore and I had it balanced within 1/2 gram. I didn't want to take the pan off the original 3.0 so I bought a new pan and oil screen tube. Just finished adding the new fuel tank ( 16gal.). I thought I could get at least one weekend camping before starting the swap, but it looks like I'll be ready to pull the 3.0 next week. I'm going to leave the exhaust in the original position, so this week I'm going to build a custom crossover that stays within the same envelope as the 3.0 exhaust. I will have it ceramic coated when complete. I'll put some pics of the fabrication in progress. I've added a couple of pics of the engine going together. See at: http://photobucket.com/motorhomeengineswap
Old 08-18-2011, 09:16 AM
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I've been running a little behind on the project. We were able to go camping last weekend. I was surprised that the 3.0 did so well climbing Mt Lemon. I'm hoping the new 3.4 with SC will be awesome. Today we are pulling the 3.0 (see pics). I'm going to build a fixture that will put the 3.4 exhaust dump in the "exact" location as the current one on the 3.0. Things look pretty tight in there, and I don't want to miss by 1/2 inch! As soon as I have both engines side by side on build stands, I will photo the build of the new crossover as well as the fixture for building this. This project should be well near complete by this time next week: http://photobucket.com/motorhomeengineswap
Old 08-19-2011, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Captainjack
I will photo the build of the new crossover as well as the fixture for building this. http://photobucket.com/motorhomeengineswap
Any chance you would make two instead of just the one ???

Andrew.
Old 08-19-2011, 04:05 PM
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Andrew. I could make another if I had the 3.4 crossover for parts. Let me know--the second one is always easier than the first. You may want to get my report on how the dry fit goes!
Old 08-19-2011, 04:06 PM
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I got quite a bit done today. I posted about 20 pics of the crossover. I'll try to explain my rationale for the process. Like I said earlier, space is very limited for the exhaust, so I wanted the crossover to fit in the exact same envelope as the original 3.0. I considered re-routing to the passenger side, but there is just too much in the way. The first pics you see are the two engines on a stand showing the crossover. I started by bolting the 3.4 crossover onto the engine; of course it dumps on the passenger side. After removing the heat shield, my first cut was to remove the dump and fit the new pipe taking care to stay very close to the block. It measures about 3.5 inches from the block to outside envelope of the pipe; anymore than this and the pipe will hit the firewall insulation. After the pipe is fit and welded, I bolted everything in place then started on the driver's side dump. I don't like the dual flange arrangement because it takes too much space. I made a "Y" pipe and had it drop into the exact location of the drop on the 3.0. I did this by constructing a fixture made from the 3.0 drop. With the pipe in place on the 3.0, I welded a bracket onto the pipe and then bolted it to the block using one of the tranny bolts. Since the blocks are identical, I then removed the pipe from the 3.0, bolted it to the 3.4--I now have the exact envelope for constructing the "Y" pipe for the dump. In the pics you can see the pipe bolted to the 3.4, then you can see how I aligned the dump to fit this envelope. Before I reattach the heat shield, I am going to dry fit the engine to make sure that I have access to weld on the new flange. I'm hoping that I can attach it to the 2.25 pipe that is shown attached to the Y pipe. In any case, with a dry fit I will be able to fit up for the exhaust without the agony of working around mistakes or near misses. The exhaust will open to a 2.5 inch about 12" in back of flange joint. If you have any questions about the pics or the process, let me know.
Old 08-20-2011, 07:52 AM
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We did the dry install this morning; everything looks great. The dump was in exactly the right place with plenty of room for installing the flange. Clearance from the firewall was good with plenty of space for adding the heat shield. It's early in the project, but so far all is well. http://photobucket.com/motorhomeengineswap
Old 08-20-2011, 07:46 PM
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thats one perrty motor! nice job!

FYI: If you swap the lower rad hose inlet for your 3.0 one, you can use your original lower hose, and might as well get a thermostat while youre at it!
Old 08-21-2011, 04:11 PM
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We started the installation on Saturday. So far everything has went well--no issues or surprises on anything. The new engine uses the same pan and dipstick as the original 3.0; fortunately, the dipstick location for the 97 T00 is exactly the same as the 3.0, so we didn't have to do anything here. I used the starter from the T100 because the connector is different from the 3.0. I used the AC from the T100 and swapped out the top plate from the 3.0; now all the hoses connect, and I didn't have to swap any pulleys. The alternator is from the T100. I haven't gotten to the radiator yet but from the comment from calipatient, I guess I may have to do some mods--and thanks for the tip! The connector from the transmission is different but from what I see on the wiring diagram, it should be easy to change connectors as all the functions are the same--even the wiring colors match. Tomorrow we'll be really into it, so I'll find out if there are any surprises. So far, this is a piece of cake. Famous last words!
Old 08-22-2011, 06:38 PM
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are you planning on cutting a hood scoop? it looks pretty tight and i read that youll need to use a 2" body lift or a hood scoop. although i may have read wrong
Old 08-22-2011, 06:47 PM
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Please don't tell me you actually left the crossover like this...
Old 08-22-2011, 08:55 PM
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no I kid!


Fyi, grab the IMG code from photobucket and just copy and paste it to hear to get your photo's showing.
Old 08-23-2011, 06:52 AM
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The hood will have to be cut.
Old 08-23-2011, 06:56 AM
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I'll give the cut and paste a try

Last edited by Captainjack; 08-23-2011 at 06:58 AM.
Old 08-23-2011, 12:35 PM
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I've been messing around trying to get the photobucket stuff added directly and all I've managed to do is to get some menu feature to come up between all the pics; does anyone know how to delete this crap? This is a lot more frustrating than swapping an engine!
Old 08-23-2011, 12:46 PM
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your almost there

in that menu feature that is now showing is an IMG code just right click and copy the IMG code and paste to your reply thread where your typing your reply on yotatech.

thats it.

by tha way nice work !!

Last edited by RMA; 08-23-2011 at 12:47 PM.


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