rayl82

Elvota

Hmmm... I would have thought they would have been the same or at least more similiar than a 2" difference.

Guess that's an example of the blind leading the blind.... or you are just really, really unlucky.

rayl82

knock on wood through a horse shoe my way this 2nd engine beter start and run I'm running out of money

Jason4X4

Also found last night that the fuel line on a t-100 engine is about 6" longer than the fuel line on the tacoma engine.

Jason4X4

It's alive!!!! AGAIN.....

Jason4X4

it idles at about 1900 rpm though, anyone know how to reset the needle on the tach?
Apparently somehow the needle got knocked off the tach at some point, and I think that is why it doesn't work.

Elvota

Congratulations!!

I take it this motor is working much better than the last? Have you been able to drive it yet?

This may sound cheesy, but if you can get something that tells you the actual RPM's (secondary gauge, monitor OBD scanner) then run the motor until it warms up and idle is steady.

Then pop the gauge cluster out and remove the screen. Pull off the tach needle while idling and stick it back on at the correct RPM's. I did that once with my 3.0 as the needle had also fallen off on mine. I think with the 3.4 I am about 300 off, so I'll have to do my trick as well some time soon.

Jason4X4

I have the scanner in it, that's how I know it's at 1900, I tried moving the needle around with it running, and it doesn't do nothing.

Also keeps setting a p1300, for the ignitor, I just did the test, and it said replace the ignitor, and I did, and it set the code again. I know you had a problem with that and it was a loose wire, but it's getting chilly outside.

Elvota

Oh... I didn't mean just move the needle. Physically pull it off the pin and replace it at the correct reading. That should fix it.

My ignitor code was from a loose wire... but without that connected it wouldn't run at all. I have the FSM tests for that code. If you like, PM me a E-Mail and I can forward them to you.

breknraj

Be certain your ignitor is WELL grounded through the mounting screws. You may need to scrape some paint off of the mounting point to insure the circuit.

Jason4X4

That's what I did, but the tach doesn't ever move, as soon as the key is on, it jumps to one spot, and it never moves again till the key is turned off.

Jason4X4

on the way to drop rob off, he reminded me athat we didn't hook up the body ground yet, we just stufed the battery in to fire it up, tomorrow, we will hook up the body grounds and build a battery tray when I get off work, hopefully that takes care of that.

Jason4X4

Also got the exhaust buttoned up.

had to move the front o2 sensor over, it was hitting the frame


just attached the factory t100 downpipe to the exhaust that was already under the truck


The factory o2 bung for the 3.0 is now where the rear o2 will reside, but it is gonna have the bypass box, it will stay there for the heater though.


one more shot

Jason4X4

Got the battery tray made, wound up haveing a plugged injector, that is what was setting the p1300 ignitor code, good thing we had 6 spares off the junk 3.4. Still has a high idle, gonna go hook up the rear o2 heater and it still needs an air filter and the wiring finished up. we are gonna go chop up the hood so we can put it back on too.

Jason4X4

Idles still way high, and I hooked up the rear o2 sensor bypass that elvota did, and now it is setting the p1300 again. Elvota, which wire colors did you hook up to? and which were the heater wires?

Also, got the tach fixed, the wire in the dash harness changed color somewhere, so once I ohmed the right wire and hooked it up, the tach now works.

RobD

If you're getting high idle, make sure you check your vacuum lines. Odds are you have one that's got a crack or isn't connected.

This is for the NGK/NTK O2 sensors that I used in mine. Hope they help: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/images/...t_11-16-04.pdf

Elvota

Wiring colors could be different.... but I spliced into red (from OX2 pin at ECM) and brown (ground for O2). Heater wires were R-W (from HT2 pin on ECM) and W-L provides the 12v to the O2 sensor. R-W and W-L were left unmolested and connected to the sensor.

I don't see why a bad secondary O2 would effect idle. That O2 only checks the cats performance. If below par, it pops up a code. You could try unplugging to O2 completely and see if that changes anything. My bet is it wont.... besides generating another code.

My 3.4 idles pretty high until it warms up... that's not what you are experiencing, correct?

Jason4X4

I think I spliced it in wrong, the rear o2 sensor is the only one that didn't have a plug, somehow it got cut off. it idles that high even when it warms up. I went and drove it around the block, and it was at operating temp, and was still high.

Jason4X4

Hey Elvota, where did you get your air filter and adapters? Rayl82 needs one.

Battery Tray


My Chit


The hole in the hood was alot smaller than I expected





just because

Elvota

I went here:
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/Se...Words=EAAU3051

Part number EAAU3051 in case link doesn't work.

I liked the Amsoil product as there is no oil to mess up the MAF. Plus it's got chrome ends.

Take a look at this engine pic for reference:



I got a blue "silicone" type adapter from AutoZone and then a small section of the ricer chrome intake tube. On the intake side of the MAF there was a small ridge designed to hold on to the factory intake. I simply ground off most of this ridge, and then attached the blue coupler/ chrome pipe/ air filter in that order. I brought the filter and MAF into AutoZone to see what I needed.

I also built a bracket to support the assembly and mounted that from the inner fender to the two holes under the MAF.

The rest of the intake is all OEM. Seems to work well... at least I haven't had any issues yet.

Nice that you were able to keep the hood hole so small. I have enlarged mine slightly. You'll see when you start driving it (especially on the trails) that the motor moves quite a bit and my intake started to rub. Just keep an eye on it and enlarge if necessary.

About your code and high idle...

Do you have a way to get a laptop watching your OBD port? I got a pretty cheap interface here:

http://www.scantool.net/products/pro...products_id=12

It's only $35 if you don't get the box. Comes with free software but more can be downloaded. They are made right here in Phoenix, AZ... so maybe you could pick one up or shipping is one day. Would give you more info on your code/ idle issue with all sorts of real time monitor data.

One reason this interface is so cheap is that it doesn't read all Toyota OBD platforms... so make sure you get the specific one for your year motor.

If mine is compatible with your year 3.4, you are welcome to drive over and we can check it out. Or maybe I can come by there if that makes more sense. Just let me know.