NEWBIE's CHEAP SWAP 3.4 from 97 4runner auto ----> 88 4runner 3.0 5speed
01-06-2011, 10:42 PM
#21
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putting pics on photo bucket and will link from there
in the mean time to rant some more...I got a job marketing, building web pages, and running a mustang MD-250 dyno. Out of no where I fell into it!
After i read these manuals and learn some more I will put my girlfriends 02 3.4 auto 4runner, all stock on there and my 3.4 swap on there to compare numbers just for ˟˟˟˟s and giggles, any one hear of some one putting a 3.4 swap on a dyno?
I'm not a high performance guy, well untill now, i understand alot of it but there is much to learn.
THE SWAP: I got alot done, all parts pulled off 3.slow, it is now in the corner of my garage, making it the worlds most shistastic engine and table,
3.4 is on the engine stand, am am giving it the look over. It has 163,xxx? mi, (I'm have to check the cluster I have that too, if anyone needs one) the timing belt was done at 110,xxx and was maintained at toyota all but the last about 2years before I got it. I'd love to check the compression (im sure its good, i just want to play with my new compression checker) but I see no way to do this untill it have it all bolted in. I know I shouldn't ask but...should I do the timing again now before the engine goes in. How many miles can you get on a timing belt on average? Anyone ever do a timing belt in a 3.4 swap w/ out removing the engine? Also, one valve cover is leaking a tiny bit, no biggie to ignore this if i can deal with a little mess right? If I had the cash I would but...im still figuring things out....talked to a guy about the cross over, will see what he quotes me tomorrow, i gave him yotatech's diy link to look at. One 3.0 engine mount rubber isolator is 99% disconnected for it's mating piece, so i will need a new one of those im pretty sure, the oil pickup from my 3.0 I am concerned about, b/c the engine had a rod knock, im sure shavings of metal have passed through/ maybe stuck in it....should I worry? I'll clean it good I promise lol ....rant...so much gonig on try to get notes out before I forget thing and will then come back to them.
posting individual pics arnt working so for now, http://s699.photobucket.com/albums/vv357/tirogersnmu/ ,sorry there not in a separate folder
in the mean time to rant some more...I got a job marketing, building web pages, and running a mustang MD-250 dyno. Out of no where I fell into it!
After i read these manuals and learn some more I will put my girlfriends 02 3.4 auto 4runner, all stock on there and my 3.4 swap on there to compare numbers just for ˟˟˟˟s and giggles, any one hear of some one putting a 3.4 swap on a dyno?
I'm not a high performance guy, well untill now, i understand alot of it but there is much to learn.
THE SWAP: I got alot done, all parts pulled off 3.slow, it is now in the corner of my garage, making it the worlds most shistastic engine and table,
3.4 is on the engine stand, am am giving it the look over. It has 163,xxx? mi, (I'm have to check the cluster I have that too, if anyone needs one) the timing belt was done at 110,xxx and was maintained at toyota all but the last about 2years before I got it. I'd love to check the compression (im sure its good, i just want to play with my new compression checker) but I see no way to do this untill it have it all bolted in. I know I shouldn't ask but...should I do the timing again now before the engine goes in. How many miles can you get on a timing belt on average? Anyone ever do a timing belt in a 3.4 swap w/ out removing the engine? Also, one valve cover is leaking a tiny bit, no biggie to ignore this if i can deal with a little mess right? If I had the cash I would but...im still figuring things out....talked to a guy about the cross over, will see what he quotes me tomorrow, i gave him yotatech's diy link to look at. One 3.0 engine mount rubber isolator is 99% disconnected for it's mating piece, so i will need a new one of those im pretty sure, the oil pickup from my 3.0 I am concerned about, b/c the engine had a rod knock, im sure shavings of metal have passed through/ maybe stuck in it....should I worry? I'll clean it good I promise lol ....rant...so much gonig on try to get notes out before I forget thing and will then come back to them.
posting individual pics arnt working so for now, http://s699.photobucket.com/albums/vv357/tirogersnmu/ ,sorry there not in a separate folder
Last edited by tirogers; 01-06-2011 at 10:54 PM.
01-07-2011, 06:53 AM
#22
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I'd change the timing belt and all those little things that you mentioned.
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Man, and I call it a day when it gets to about 45. We Californians are spoiled.
To link your photo so they show in your posts:
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Man, and I call it a day when it gets to about 45. We Californians are spoiled.
01-09-2011, 10:54 AM
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was cleaning up engine today and noticed the HP fuel line on the 3.4 is questionable and needs replacement....any one use the 3.0 HP fuel line from the engine? I just discovered rescue tape....may be try that? from same one else's build DNDAT maybe?
also, being dumb and not paying attention i damaged the oil pickup gasket from the 3.0 while cleaning it, i hope I can remove the 3.4's and salvage it. NOTE: THEY ARE THE SAME AND THE 3.4'S is 8yrs newer
Cleaning parts sucks! i should just get a parts cleaner after how much i spend on brake cleaner! I cleaned the 3.0 pan with purple power degreaser and wire wheel the out side, no it needs some paint. Can I use any spraypaint or does it need to be high temp? I have some stop rust i want to hit it with and then truck spray on bed liner. Any problem with that?
How many of you have a parts cleaner? or what did you use to clean the block of the 3.4 engine prior to installation?
I goofed around with engine mounts and isolators trying to remedy they 3.0 pass side i think that is damages, it appears it could be done by drilling a new hole in one of the backing plates, the 97 has holes for both bot the 89 does not, there cheap ill just replace it, or both of them i guess
the lines running down the firewall from the driver side down under and to the rear of the runner, are those for my rear heat? One leaks and it's definitely coolant. My 4runner was originally am auto (a long time ago) if that matters much? maybe a trans cooler that was blocked off? The trans cooler is still on in front of the radiator. So is the AC cooler thing. I have decided im not going to bother with AC and avoid that headache as I dont have everything I need to make it work, but do have most, so 1 3.4 AC compressor for sale......I will go OBA w/ a york maybe down the road.
I am now going to remove whats in front of my (88) radiator now! The ac condenser evap core thing, and the old trans cooler, so those are for sale too
Sorry for the silly names.
Ok removing all the old AC stuff was a pain in the ass but its out now, easier to clean the engine bay now.
also, being dumb and not paying attention i damaged the oil pickup gasket from the 3.0 while cleaning it, i hope I can remove the 3.4's and salvage it. NOTE: THEY ARE THE SAME AND THE 3.4'S is 8yrs newer
Cleaning parts sucks! i should just get a parts cleaner after how much i spend on brake cleaner! I cleaned the 3.0 pan with purple power degreaser and wire wheel the out side, no it needs some paint. Can I use any spraypaint or does it need to be high temp? I have some stop rust i want to hit it with and then truck spray on bed liner. Any problem with that?
How many of you have a parts cleaner? or what did you use to clean the block of the 3.4 engine prior to installation?
I goofed around with engine mounts and isolators trying to remedy they 3.0 pass side i think that is damages, it appears it could be done by drilling a new hole in one of the backing plates, the 97 has holes for both bot the 89 does not, there cheap ill just replace it, or both of them i guess
the lines running down the firewall from the driver side down under and to the rear of the runner, are those for my rear heat? One leaks and it's definitely coolant. My 4runner was originally am auto (a long time ago) if that matters much? maybe a trans cooler that was blocked off? The trans cooler is still on in front of the radiator. So is the AC cooler thing. I have decided im not going to bother with AC and avoid that headache as I dont have everything I need to make it work, but do have most, so 1 3.4 AC compressor for sale......I will go OBA w/ a york maybe down the road.
I am now going to remove whats in front of my (88) radiator now! The ac condenser evap core thing, and the old trans cooler, so those are for sale too
Sorry for the silly names.Ok removing all the old AC stuff was a pain in the ass but its out now, easier to clean the engine bay now.
Last edited by tirogers; 01-09-2011 at 02:02 PM.
01-09-2011, 11:55 PM
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was carefully looking at mosk's stick on m/t to at pinouts and nothing is remotely close.....am i reading it wrong WTF? I looked at every year listed and nothing similar....hummmmmmmm any one have there wiring notes they can post up?
01-11-2011, 11:55 PM
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I feel like I'm talking to my self, is it b/c i'm so unorganized in my posts and the lack of pics or what? let me know would ya guys?
broke a false water pump stud with my cheap HF torque wrench. I am doing away with the engine fan and going electric. GERRR good thing the 3.0 is there to rob parts off. I put the new stud in but the nut i used to screw it in is stuck on the stud GERRR Hopefully after the blue locktite sets I will be able to back it off.
Any know the proper torque spec for the nuts that hold the pulleys onto the false water pump housing?
Oil pan is bolted up, i used the 3.0 oil baffle plate, and oil pickup. What a stupid design with 2 parts to seal on the oil pan, if i did it again i would cut/modify the baffle plate from the 3.4.
I will flip it back over and fill with oil and wish for the best. I also stupidly put rvt red on the baffle plate instead of the oil pan like I know I should have! GERRR Bad Day! Any one think this will cause an issue? The rvt appears to have seeped out all over, so thats a good sign!
Also the oil pan took two attempts to paint! I finally used my washing machine with the shoe dryer rack in as a drying booth. Dont tell the GF
TO LIST:
get $ to pay a local guy to fab up my crossover using my stock one (estimate of $75 is that fair do you think?)
replace the ripped motor mount isolator
replace rear main seal (the rear main seal plate has a gouge out of it, no on the seal but close) ill get a pic.....could this be an issue?
Install clutch assembly, still have to figure that part out, it will be my first clutch job
My truck just had a marlin HD clutch put in (by PO) before the 3.slow hit the fan. So i will be using that.
Flip HP fuel line/fix reinforce/shield rub spot
Flip LP fuel Line
Cross fingers my non ABS PS lines will work
Mount engine
get/install 2in body lift....... any one have a good write up on this or recommendation or good brand?? i looks like if it comes w/ a steering shaft spacer my alt might fit.....or is this wishful thinking?
also if i remember correctly the engine had synthetic oil in it, but i can not remember for the life of me!!!! The oil looks a little redish if that helps.....any one have a clue how I can tell? I have the oil i drained from it ......i think....
Oh and I got a job running a Dyno if I didnt already mention that, so once I get this on the road, ill post up some HP and Torque spec on both my swap and my g/f 02 stock auto 4runner with the 3.4
broke a false water pump stud with my cheap HF torque wrench. I am doing away with the engine fan and going electric. GERRR good thing the 3.0 is there to rob parts off. I put the new stud in but the nut i used to screw it in is stuck on the stud GERRR Hopefully after the blue locktite sets I will be able to back it off.
Any know the proper torque spec for the nuts that hold the pulleys onto the false water pump housing?
Oil pan is bolted up, i used the 3.0 oil baffle plate, and oil pickup. What a stupid design with 2 parts to seal on the oil pan, if i did it again i would cut/modify the baffle plate from the 3.4.
I will flip it back over and fill with oil and wish for the best. I also stupidly put rvt red on the baffle plate instead of the oil pan like I know I should have! GERRR Bad Day! Any one think this will cause an issue? The rvt appears to have seeped out all over, so thats a good sign!
Also the oil pan took two attempts to paint! I finally used my washing machine with the shoe dryer rack in as a drying booth. Dont tell the GF
TO LIST:
get $ to pay a local guy to fab up my crossover using my stock one (estimate of $75 is that fair do you think?)
replace the ripped motor mount isolator
replace rear main seal (the rear main seal plate has a gouge out of it, no on the seal but close) ill get a pic.....could this be an issue?
Install clutch assembly, still have to figure that part out, it will be my first clutch job
My truck just had a marlin HD clutch put in (by PO) before the 3.slow hit the fan. So i will be using that.Flip HP fuel line/fix reinforce/shield rub spot
Flip LP fuel Line
Cross fingers my non ABS PS lines will work
Mount engine
get/install 2in body lift....... any one have a good write up on this or recommendation or good brand?? i looks like if it comes w/ a steering shaft spacer my alt might fit.....or is this wishful thinking?
also if i remember correctly the engine had synthetic oil in it, but i can not remember for the life of me!!!! The oil looks a little redish if that helps.....any one have a clue how I can tell? I have the oil i drained from it ......i think....
Oh and I got a job running a Dyno if I didnt already mention that, so once I get this on the road, ill post up some HP and Torque spec on both my swap and my g/f 02 stock auto 4runner with the 3.4
Last edited by tirogers; 01-12-2011 at 12:17 AM.
01-12-2011, 05:32 AM
#26
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I feel like I'm talking to my self, is it b/c i'm so unorganized in my posts and the lack of pics or what? let me know would ya guys?
Ya I feel like that latelt as well
broke a false water pump stud with my cheap HF torque wrench. I am doing away with the engine fan and going electric. GERRR good thing the 3.0 is there to rob parts off. I put the new stud in but the nut i used to screw it in is stuck on the stud GERRR Hopefully after the blue locktite sets I will be able to back it off.
Any know the proper torque spec for the nuts that hold the pulleys onto the false water pump housing?
I dont but I could look it up later. Ttora has a good selection of FSM's that should have that.
Oil pan is bolted up, i used the 3.0 oil baffle plate, and oil pickup. What a stupid design with 2 parts to seal on the oil pan, if i did it again i would cut/modify the baffle plate from the 3.4.
I cut my 3.4 plate and made it fit. There are pics in my thread on page 1 or 2. This is something that I would think about redoing now while the motor is out since I would not want to have to redo later after the motor is installed. However, the sandwich mount seemingly worked fine for millions of 3.0's out there for years, but I would still switch it.
I will flip it back over and fill with oil and wish for the best. I also stupidly put rvt red on the baffle plate instead of the oil pan like I know I should have! GERRR Bad Day! Any one think this will cause an issue? The rvt appears to have seeped out all over, so thats a good sign!
Also the oil pan took two attempts to paint! I finally used my washing machine with the shoe dryer rack in as a drying booth. Dont tell the GF
TO LIST:
get $ to pay a local guy to fab up my crossover using my stock one (estimate of $75 is that fair do you think?)
Sounds pretty fair to me. Make sure that he is going to handle it if it doesnt fit. There is almost no tolerance or room for error. I have only done one of course, in the truck, and I dont know if I could get it right on the stand and then installing.
replace the ripped motor mount isolator
replace rear main seal (the rear main seal plate has a gouge out of it, no on the seal but close) ill get a pic.....could this be an issue?
shouldnt be.
Install clutch assembly, still have to figure that part out, it will be my first clutch job My truck just had a marlin HD clutch put in (by PO) before the 3.slow hit the fan. So i will be using that.
I know its more money but the 3.4 clutch I think is superior than reusing the 3.0. Also, match the starter to the proper flywheel. If you are going to use your 3.0 clutch, use the 3.0 starter. Again, FSM will help you.
Flip HP fuel line/fix reinforce/shield rub spot
Flip LP fuel Line
Cross fingers my non ABS PS lines will work
Mount engine
get/install 2in body lift....... any one have a good write up on this or recommendation or good brand?? i looks like if it comes w/ a steering shaft spacer my alt might fit.....or is this wishful thinking?
I went 4Crawler. Search his name here or Google. I liked my kit and I had to use a steering shaft extension and cut the top of the shaft to get my alternator to fit. Use the 3.4 alternator and dont cut any of the mounting bolts or brackets.
also if i remember correctly the engine had synthetic oil in it, but i can not remember for the life of me!!!! The oil looks a little redish if that helps.....any one have a clue how I can tell? I have the oil i drained from it ......i think....
No idea. I run 5-20 Mobil One synthetic.
Oh and I got a job running a Dyno if I didnt already mention that, so once I get this on the road, ill post up some HP and Torque spec on both my swap and my g/f 02 stock auto 4runner with the 3.4
Ya I feel like that latelt as well
broke a false water pump stud with my cheap HF torque wrench. I am doing away with the engine fan and going electric. GERRR good thing the 3.0 is there to rob parts off. I put the new stud in but the nut i used to screw it in is stuck on the stud GERRR Hopefully after the blue locktite sets I will be able to back it off.
Any know the proper torque spec for the nuts that hold the pulleys onto the false water pump housing?
I dont but I could look it up later. Ttora has a good selection of FSM's that should have that.
Oil pan is bolted up, i used the 3.0 oil baffle plate, and oil pickup. What a stupid design with 2 parts to seal on the oil pan, if i did it again i would cut/modify the baffle plate from the 3.4.
I cut my 3.4 plate and made it fit. There are pics in my thread on page 1 or 2. This is something that I would think about redoing now while the motor is out since I would not want to have to redo later after the motor is installed. However, the sandwich mount seemingly worked fine for millions of 3.0's out there for years, but I would still switch it.
I will flip it back over and fill with oil and wish for the best. I also stupidly put rvt red on the baffle plate instead of the oil pan like I know I should have! GERRR Bad Day! Any one think this will cause an issue? The rvt appears to have seeped out all over, so thats a good sign!
Also the oil pan took two attempts to paint! I finally used my washing machine with the shoe dryer rack in as a drying booth. Dont tell the GF
TO LIST:
get $ to pay a local guy to fab up my crossover using my stock one (estimate of $75 is that fair do you think?)
Sounds pretty fair to me. Make sure that he is going to handle it if it doesnt fit. There is almost no tolerance or room for error. I have only done one of course, in the truck, and I dont know if I could get it right on the stand and then installing.
replace the ripped motor mount isolator
replace rear main seal (the rear main seal plate has a gouge out of it, no on the seal but close) ill get a pic.....could this be an issue?
shouldnt be.
Install clutch assembly, still have to figure that part out, it will be my first clutch job
My truck just had a marlin HD clutch put in (by PO) before the 3.slow hit the fan. So i will be using that.I know its more money but the 3.4 clutch I think is superior than reusing the 3.0. Also, match the starter to the proper flywheel. If you are going to use your 3.0 clutch, use the 3.0 starter. Again, FSM will help you.
Flip HP fuel line/fix reinforce/shield rub spot
Flip LP fuel Line
Cross fingers my non ABS PS lines will work
Mount engine
get/install 2in body lift....... any one have a good write up on this or recommendation or good brand?? i looks like if it comes w/ a steering shaft spacer my alt might fit.....or is this wishful thinking?
I went 4Crawler. Search his name here or Google. I liked my kit and I had to use a steering shaft extension and cut the top of the shaft to get my alternator to fit. Use the 3.4 alternator and dont cut any of the mounting bolts or brackets.
also if i remember correctly the engine had synthetic oil in it, but i can not remember for the life of me!!!! The oil looks a little redish if that helps.....any one have a clue how I can tell? I have the oil i drained from it ......i think....
No idea. I run 5-20 Mobil One synthetic.
Oh and I got a job running a Dyno if I didnt already mention that, so once I get this on the road, ill post up some HP and Torque spec on both my swap and my g/f 02 stock auto 4runner with the 3.4
01-12-2011, 02:50 PM
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I have decided to NOT redo my oil pan and use the 3.4 baffle plate thing, but will fill with oil and let sit to ensure of no leaks prior to putting the engine in.
Since I am not sure If the engine had synthetic in it I am going to go synthetic to avoid any issues.
I ordered 2 new 88 engine mounts and a rear mail seal from partsgeek.com....ground shipping i wounder how long untill they will arrive....
All parts are coming along except the crossover for now....PS DNTSDAD I am going to bring the engine to the shop so he can ensure tight tolerances!
Spliced/ the oil pressure sensor wires together, and managed to get the nut off the false water pump stud I replace last night, THANKS LOCKTITE.....tick tock tick tock......funds are the only thing holding me up at this point!
Need to find a compatible ECU/ECU and get the wiring headache out of the way
01-12-2011, 04:10 PM
#29
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Honestly thats just what I have heard. I am not sure if they are the same tooth count or the same diameter. Right from the horse's mouth that they interchange fine though from Hamish!!
01-14-2011, 07:23 AM
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I can confirm that the starter I am using came off my 93 pickup's 3.0 If you need part numbers and if they are not inbetween the starter and motor, I could get them for you. My engine never came with the starter, or alt. So I had to use the 3.0 ones. Works fine for me.
01-15-2011, 05:32 AM
#31
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Wires
I can confirm that the starter I am using came off my 93 pickup's 3.0 If you need part numbers and if they are not inbetween the starter and motor, I could get them for you. My engine never came with the starter, or alt. So I had to use the 3.0 ones. Works fine for me.
I should be alright on part #'s thanks tho!
Running out of things to do with out money. Attached are some pics.....headache any one? I think I am finally figuring out how simple this actually is.
My plan is to make jumper harness so it will all be plug and play.
89 3.0 5speed ECU engine harness plugs
89 3.0 5 speed plugs from engine harness to dash harness
97 4runner auto engine harness plugs to dash harness
97 4runner auto engine harness plugs to ecu
all 5 97 4runner engine harness plugs
another shot
97 4runner auto sr5 100% COMPLETE harness, if you see any parts you need, speak up! There is more then just the dash harness there, there is every bit of wiring that was in the 4runner!
VSV's
cleaning station
The only plugs I want!!! I think lol
the start of my notes....
this was for a 97 tacoma, the colors were very similar but not exact, the pinout locations how ever where dead on, i noted what I have in my 97 4runner AUTO and double checked the EWD's 1000times and there right.
Last edited by tirogers; 01-15-2011 at 05:54 AM.
01-15-2011, 08:37 PM
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wires
i spent a good 15+ solid hrs looking an the FSM and EWD's today, and making detailed notes on paper, i have a handle on everything....i think.....i just haven't started 
yet b/c i need to get a 98 5speed ecu so I can use my 97 auto plugs, and repin them, so i can retain my auto harness. The 3, 3.4 97 auto engine harness to ECU plugs are 3 of the 4 I have yet label and figure out. I can now efficently read EWD's so once I have an ECU I will attempt to make a "plug and play harness" with minimal cutting of wires. Wayyy too much 
last night!!! Good excuse to sit around and study EWD's! lol
yet b/c i need to get a 98 5speed ecu so I can use my 97 auto plugs, and repin them, so i can retain my auto harness. The 3, 3.4 97 auto engine harness to ECU plugs are 3 of the 4 I have yet label and figure out. I can now efficently read EWD's so once I have an ECU I will attempt to make a "plug and play harness" with minimal cutting of wires. Wayyy too much last night!!! Good excuse to sit around and study EWD's! lol
02-22-2011, 07:22 PM
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Update
Ok so its been a while since I posted. I got a 5speed ECU from a 97 4runner from car-part.com for $50+20shipping from georga, thanks DNTSDad for the idea to look there.
I have repined the engines auto harness to 5speed using lots of different info from the web and Toyota's EWD's.
I tripled checked every thing hopefully it pays off! I did manage to catch 2 0r 3 mistakes I had made. BE SURE YOU KNOW WHAT WAY THE WIRES LEAVE THE PLUG YOU ARE REWIRING! IT IS EASY TO GET CONFUSE A MALE AND FEMALE PLUG diagram, atleast for me. The fuel pump relay and gauge wires still need hooked up. I have been at a stand still until tonight when I got the cross over welded up! I got jerked around all over town but finally found a great guy/welder/mechanist! It cost me $120 (2 hrs), coulda saved some of that but we screwed around with the heat shield for way to long. All in all I am very pleased! I cant afford to have it ceramic coated, so I settled for putting the stock heat shield back on the cross over and am going to stuff fiberglass into the heat shield opening to prevent and rattles down the road. Along with hitting it with some high temp heat. Pics attached. I used the write up called "Build your own 3.4 crossover pipe"
Hint: when you cut your crossover by the flex joint, cut right were you can see the tooling marks right be the bends, put tape around it to get the almost perfect angles. Ill see if I can get a pic of the tooling marks.
I can now get back to work on my project! Need to get 3.4 pilot bearing, and most likely going to replace the throw out bearing to ensure I dont have to do it any time soon....
3.0 fly wheel, 3.0 clutch plate, pressure plate and throw out.
3.4 pilot
Thats the correct clutch components? If I want to use my new HD marlin crawler 3.0 clutch???
I have repined the engines auto harness to 5speed using lots of different info from the web and Toyota's EWD's.
I tripled checked every thing hopefully it pays off! I did manage to catch 2 0r 3 mistakes I had made. BE SURE YOU KNOW WHAT WAY THE WIRES LEAVE THE PLUG YOU ARE REWIRING! IT IS EASY TO GET CONFUSE A MALE AND FEMALE PLUG diagram, atleast for me. The fuel pump relay and gauge wires still need hooked up. I have been at a stand still until tonight when I got the cross over welded up! I got jerked around all over town but finally found a great guy/welder/mechanist! It cost me $120 (2 hrs), coulda saved some of that but we screwed around with the heat shield for way to long. All in all I am very pleased! I cant afford to have it ceramic coated, so I settled for putting the stock heat shield back on the cross over and am going to stuff fiberglass into the heat shield opening to prevent and rattles down the road. Along with hitting it with some high temp heat. Pics attached. I used the write up called "Build your own 3.4 crossover pipe"
Hint: when you cut your crossover by the flex joint, cut right were you can see the tooling marks right be the bends, put tape around it to get the almost perfect angles. Ill see if I can get a pic of the tooling marks.
I can now get back to work on my project! Need to get 3.4 pilot bearing, and most likely going to replace the throw out bearing to ensure I dont have to do it any time soon....
3.0 fly wheel, 3.0 clutch plate, pressure plate and throw out.
3.4 pilot
Thats the correct clutch components? If I want to use my new HD marlin crawler 3.0 clutch???
02-23-2011, 07:41 AM
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02-23-2011, 03:18 PM
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For the clutch, you really want a 3.4 clutch, flywheel, pilot, pressure plate. the only must have is the 3.0 throwout bearing. 3.4 clutch is bigger I believe.
02-24-2011, 05:28 AM
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The 3.4 clutch components are a little larger in diameter, but the 3.0 components will work just fine. If you have a fairly new 3.0 clutch setup, I would not be afraid at all to put them in. This is exactly what I did with mine and I have not had any problems with it at all.
02-28-2011, 11:38 AM
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Engine IN!
The Engine is in!!!! Getting to the top bolts is cake work and takes much less time the 2ed time! Just like a road trip, getting there takes ALOT longer then the return trip (at least it seems)...
aligning the engine and trans tho, I would say took me ~5ish hrs of fing with it, i used a floor jack that sucks big time and slowly creeps down, a bottle jack, and of course the engine hoist...that was free that is now starting to crap out as well lol
I destroyed the first 3.0 pilot bearing, wrong size socket and not enough cleaning (return trip to the store and they swapped it for a new one)
(TIP: flip the socket over so you use the end that would fit in the ratchet to seat the pilot bearing=more surface area!)
I should have taken the heater hoses off at least the engine or 4runner....I did not.....looks like a mess figuring it all out now! I am going to wait until I get the 2" performance accessories body lift I ordered today of tackle this. I will have lots more then then! I also have to fix the rear heat leak that I believe partially contributed to the old 3.0 crapping out....what have others used to replace the old hard lines under the body?
Sorry 4crawler
"NOTE: Due to extraordinary high order volume, it may take some time for production and shipments to catch up. Order backlog could be up to 5 weeks, so if it bothers you to have your order delayed that long, wait until we catch up before placing your order. "
scared me away from ordering through you. I read good reviews about performance accessories so i went through them. I wish I could afford new bushings too but I can not
My crossover almost made me burn my house down
when I discovered it was hitting the trans! I was not about to pull the engine and fix it! Well ok ok you know I would have but I'd have been soooooo pissed at my self!
Long story short.....i Fed with it for a few hrs being only 1.5mm MAX away from the bolts aligning on the passenger side. This was b/c the trans where the 10 or 11 o'clock bolt on the passenger side goes through the trans and attaches to the engine was hitting, just so slightly. (I will get a pic)...The answer start on the passanger side 5 o'clock bolt and work my way around to the bolt that wouldnt align....this worked perfectly!
The wiring that I previous did has saved me alot of work here. I still have several wires I do not know for sure where they go...maybe one of you more knowledgeable people can point me in the right direction. I spent some of Sat and most of Sun trying to finish the harness. I am scared to death for the first turn of the key lol. I also need to figure out the COR wiring as its still some what fuzzy to me. I have found that I need to be in the same state of mind (
) I was while doing the wiring in order for my memory to recall correctly what made notes of and labled a motnth or so ago.
I spent sat ripping the dash apart so i can remove the heater box/core? to make room for my jumper harness and cleanly mount every thing. Man what a pain in the ass! I would rather pull the engine again I think. Anyways I still have to remove the heater core box thing which looks like a pain! Ill search for a write up.
I will update later tonight about specific wiring questions, and add pics!
This swap is not terribly complicated (fingers crossed it works the first time), I urge you to do it if you have the time/$/and some mechanical knowledge!!!! Thus far being resourceful I figure I am in the swap ~$2000 give for take 2 or 3 hundred INCLUDING the 4runner!
I however would not even known the swap was possible if it wasn't for yotatech!!!
You guys are so helpful thank you soooo much!
aligning the engine and trans tho, I would say took me ~5ish hrs of fing with it, i used a floor jack that sucks big time and slowly creeps down, a bottle jack, and of course the engine hoist...that was free that is now starting to crap out as well lol
I destroyed the first 3.0 pilot bearing, wrong size socket and not enough cleaning (return trip to the store and they swapped it for a new one)
(TIP: flip the socket over so you use the end that would fit in the ratchet to seat the pilot bearing=more surface area!)
I should have taken the heater hoses off at least the engine or 4runner....I did not.....looks like a mess figuring it all out now! I am going to wait until I get the 2" performance accessories body lift I ordered today of tackle this. I will have lots more then then! I also have to fix the rear heat leak that I believe partially contributed to the old 3.0 crapping out....what have others used to replace the old hard lines under the body?
Sorry 4crawler
"NOTE: Due to extraordinary high order volume, it may take some time for production and shipments to catch up. Order backlog could be up to 5 weeks, so if it bothers you to have your order delayed that long, wait until we catch up before placing your order. "
scared me away from ordering through you. I read good reviews about performance accessories so i went through them. I wish I could afford new bushings too but I can not
My crossover almost made me burn my house down
when I discovered it was hitting the trans! I was not about to pull the engine and fix it! Well ok ok you know I would have but I'd have been soooooo pissed at my self!Long story short.....i Fed with it for a few hrs being only 1.5mm MAX away from the bolts aligning on the passenger side. This was b/c the trans where the 10 or 11 o'clock bolt on the passenger side goes through the trans and attaches to the engine was hitting, just so slightly. (I will get a pic)...The answer start on the passanger side 5 o'clock bolt and work my way around to the bolt that wouldnt align....this worked perfectly!
The wiring that I previous did has saved me alot of work here. I still have several wires I do not know for sure where they go...maybe one of you more knowledgeable people can point me in the right direction. I spent some of Sat and most of Sun trying to finish the harness. I am scared to death for the first turn of the key lol. I also need to figure out the COR wiring as its still some what fuzzy to me. I have found that I need to be in the same state of mind (
) I was while doing the wiring in order for my memory to recall correctly what made notes of and labled a motnth or so ago.I spent sat ripping the dash apart so i can remove the heater box/core? to make room for my jumper harness and cleanly mount every thing. Man what a pain in the ass! I would rather pull the engine again I think. Anyways I still have to remove the heater core box thing which looks like a pain! Ill search for a write up.
I will update later tonight about specific wiring questions, and add pics!
This swap is not terribly complicated (fingers crossed it works the first time), I urge you to do it if you have the time/$/and some mechanical knowledge!!!! Thus far being resourceful I figure I am in the swap ~$2000 give for take 2 or 3 hundred INCLUDING the 4runner!
I however would not even known the swap was possible if it wasn't for yotatech!!!
You guys are so helpful thank you soooo much!
Last edited by tirogers; 02-28-2011 at 11:43 AM.
