cadman

I need to dogleg the transfer case shift lever. I have a single case, so this is less complicated than a dual case setup. Marlin Crawler does this for $100, you provide the lever.

I can't weld, at least not yet, so this is another job for my jig welding co-worker.

With the lever in 2H, here is where it sits.





With the lever removed. The black line is for reference. With the shifter assembly in place, this is close to where the boot opening is.






With the boot on the lever, the vertical alignment of the rivet nuts on the subplate and the holes on the boot is almost spot on.





Checking the distance between holes I get 2.600".



I'll put the lever on the mill at work to cut some reference lines, then cut an extension from steel bar and get it tig welded. Hopefully I can get this done by the weekend.

mt_goat

In case you missed it, my dogleg shifter pics:

https://www.yotatech.com/1001175-post195.html

cadman

I have the tranny cooler hoses routed from the tranny to the radiator to the IPT cooler and back to the tranny. At the rub areas I sleeved the hoses with flat braid, expandable nylon mesh sleeving that has a temperature range of -49 F to +302 F. I used this type of sleeving to prevent any rubbing and abrasion, and want heat to dissipate from the hose, not trap it, so no convoluted sleeve or foam tubing. Now I can finally fill the tranny with ATF. I also picked up some different self fusing tape than I normally use to wrap the ends of the sleeves. This tape is thinner and easier to work with. In the pictures it is the tape with the blue line running around it.

PN 7643A281 - self fusing tape
PN 9337K6 - sleeving

www.mcmaster.com

cadman

Might as well replace some of the old rotten stuff you find under the hood of a 19 year old truck.

These don't seal that good any more. They need to be replaced:







with these:






PN 53414-89103, $5.10 each. Cheap fix.

cadman

The heater hose for a Tacoma with no rear heat came in. I was hoping it would be shorter than the 4Runner hose, but it was tha same size.








Without the T fitting it could be forced to fit since it is a lot more flexible, but it would be stressed quite a lot and potentially fail, most likely while in Death Valley. Reliability is the name of the game here. So I cut it and spliced it with the T section. I wound up cutting almost 1 7/8" from the hose and now it fits like it should. I also cut the other heater hose and installed the other T fitting in place. These should make burping air from the coolant system easy to do.











I ordered the permanent, wind-up, cotter pin type of clamps for my donor 4Runner heater hoses but received the spring type instead. Correct part numbers, but different clamps. I'd rather have the wind-up type for the splices, so I'll get some of those but for the 3.0 hose. I know those are correct since I bought some recently.


I should also add that the idea for burping the system with a fitting came from Dale (mt_goat)

cadman

The 3.0 coolant inlet and hose is a near perfect fit with the 3.4 in my truck. The hose does rub against the alternator bracket, but it is somewhat minor. I cut an additional 3/4" from the radiator end of the hose and now it is just a minor touch against the bracket. I put a few strips of PTFE tape at the contact area of the hose and also wrapped the bracket.

cadman

After connecting the heater hoses, I started filling the truck with fluids. I have to be extremely vigilante about finding any indication of leaks since I rebuilt the engine and replaced seals & filter in the transmission.

First was the coolant. I used the Toyota Super Long Life premixed stuff and slowly filled the radiator, checking for coolant anywhere around the engine.
With two gallons in, there are no leaks. The radiator is not full yet and I have to get more coolant. The system won't be burped and completely filled until the engine is running. A day later and still no leaks.

I pulled one of the tranny cooler hoses from the radiator and there is no coolant, so that is good. The radiator is new, and although leaks are possible from even a new radiator, the percentage of that is probably very low. I've never had a problem with new radiators.

The PS pump is filled but also needs the engine running to bleed the steering box and correct the fluid level.

The transmission has a gallon of ATF and the level gauge shows it high. Obviously a completely drained tranny and torque converter hold more, but like everything else, the engine needs to be running to get correct fluid readings, so for now I'm set. From here on out I can monitor for leaks while I finish up the swap.


As far as major things left to do, in no particular order:

1. Finish hooking up wiring.
2. Mount the airbox.
3. Mount the evap cannister.
4. Get the exhaust system built.
5. Finish the transfercase shifter mod.
6. Build cross member.
7. Front drive shaft mod.


The cross member and front drive shaft can be done after the swap is complete. The my co-worker did the initial welding on the transfercase lever, but will be taking off for vacation and I still need to machine a part for it, so that will be delayed for a week.

cadman

There are four connectors from the 3.4 harness that are now unused. I wrapped them with self fusing tape and zip tied them to the top of the tranny. I don't know if I'll ever use them, but it doesn't hurt to leave them on, just in case. I also removed those plastic clips. I have all of the mounting brackets from the tranny and the 3.4 transfercase and they can be useful in some other spot.

While under the truck, I noticed a little gear oil had wicked through the gasket between the adapter plate and transfercase, near the very bottom screw, and the cover behind the output flange for the front drive shaft. I only put sealer on one side of the adapter plate gasket, the side that now weeps, and I didn't put any on the cover behind the flange. The lesson? put sealer on both sides of all gaskets on the transfer case. I'll get a couple new gaskets from Toyota and take care of this before it becomes a bigger problem.

cadman

The alternator connector and terminal repair kit finally came in.

Connector - pn 90980-10941
Terminal repair - pn 82998-12430





The alternator is now all hooked up to the 3.4 & 3.0 harness.




The small cable is the starter trigger wire from the ORS harness. The cable above it is the 3.0 harness that used to hook up directly to the alternator and oil level gauge. The cable on the lower left is the new 3.4 alternator connector, formerly the 3.0 round alternator connector. The cable above it was the 3.0 alternator cable.

cadman

About a week ago I noticed some a small leak coming from the idle up valve on the PS pressure line. I got a wrench and put a little pressure to loosen it to see if it was tight or not and it turned easy, so it was loose. Before I tighten it, I want to make sure everything is clean and in good condition, so I drained the reservoir and removed the valve.

I was a bit surprised to find there was no seal of any kind between the valve and fitting. The 3.0 pump has brass or bronze cones where the pressure line and idle up valve screw into the pump body and I fully expected the same on the 3.4 pump. The FSM and EPC shows nothing between the 3.4 valve and hose fitting and a trip to the dealer also came up empty. The 3.0 & 3.4 valves have the same threaded body and taper, the only difference is the 3.0 body has threads the entire length and the 3.4 is shy about 3 threads. I also found the cone from the 3.0 pump body fits in the 3.4 hose fitting, so I took that cone and pressed it in the 3.4 hose and hooked everything back up.

cadman

The ORS harness has a wire with a fuse holder that runs from the passenger side of the cab to the battery. There is a grommet on the firewall near the steering shaft that I was going to run it through, but instead I ran it along the 3.0 harness that routes under the left fender and into the engine comparment.


This is above the driver side fuse box. A little dialectric grease and wire to fish it through, the ORS wire passes through the grommet cleanly.





Here is where it exits in the wheel well.





Several wraps of self fusing tape and some black silicone RTV to seal the harness.









The wire exits near the battery location.

cadman

I was going to use mt_goat's method to offset the lever but decided to approach it a little differently. Earlier I determined the distance needed to move the lever and was pretty confident about it, but I was pretty sure it wouldn't be exactly where I originally wanted it when assembly time came. So I devised a way to assemble the cut lever and extension, install it, align it and be able to bring it to my co-worker for welding without it moving out of alignment.



First I cut the lever and had some rod welded on to extend the lengths of the two parts. I machined the extension from 1018 bar and made a sort of modified fish mouths where the two parts would press into.




You can't really see in the pics, but there is a counterbore that is .025" bigger than the thru hole. The c.bores are on opposite sides of the bar. After some light grinding on the welds, the welded portions are a press fit into the c.bores. The large chamfers allow good penetration for welding and the open part of the bores allows welding on the sides.





After I assemble the unit, I install it in the case with the boot on and get everything aligned correctly. The press fit into the extension prevents anything from moving out of place, but still be able to rotate as needed.





Satisfied with the alignment, my co-worker puts on a couple tack welds and I install it for a final check. Everything looks good so he welds it up. Once he is finished, I spray a few coats of paint to keep rust at bay. Need to careful about welding the lever part of the shifter; it is filled with rubber as an isolator and if your not careful you can melt it. Tig is recommended here. My co-worker knows what he's doing and is an excellent Tig welder.







A minor interruption while working. I hear a droning noise, look up, and the Goodyear blimp is right over my house, and it is low. I've never seen it get that low unless it was landing. Just don't land on my truck, I'm not finished yet.




This is the brace for the console with cup holders. The slot for the third screw does not line up with the hole on the console, so I need to drill it. The slot below the hole is where the screw is supposed to go. Not even close.





Finished.







The linkage did not need to be modified. I did have to cut the corner of the heat shield and bend it slightly

mt_goat

Great work on the dogleg shifter! Everything looks great.

Yeah I told Goodyear what a great build you have going and they wanted to get a sky shot.

cadman

Yeah, I thought they were on a covert mission when I saw the camera flashes

zlathim

Nice work on that off-set shifter. The whole project looks amazing.

cadman

The evap cannister from the 3.4 is a larger, box shaped unit as opposed to the round, coffee can device from the 3.0. To pass the smog referee, using the 3.4 unit is pretty much a must do.

Screamer76's mount with a section of angle is a good, solid, simple way to do it. I used a section of 3/16" x 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" steel angle and since I have the resources, after work I made a quick program and did some milling to it in one of the VMCs.

The two evap mounts that bolt to the side of the fender are angled, and each one is a different angle. I did not want to simply bolt both of them to the same plane/surface. Eventually, one or both would probably crack or break off from the stress, so I machined mounting tabs that would be bent into the correct angles for each mount.


At home I held the bracket in a vise and bolted on a steel parallel to the tabs and used a lever to bend them. After getting the first one done I could bolt the cannister to that tab and see how much to bend the other one. Sometimes you just can't get any better by eyeballing things.






Mounted in place, only the tabs and a little section of the bracket are visible when casually looking in the engine compartment. I didn't take any other pics of the bracket, so I'll take some and post them after I spray a few coats of black paint.

I need to make a bracket for the lower mount, so I'll use some of the sheet that I used for the shifter assembly subplate. I'll also place a threaded bumper in the screw hole that is underneath the cannister.

Ultramag

Your Father in law is a smart man>>>>>>.

Your work is impressive my friend. Skills are mad and your truck is greatful.

Pete

RobD

I'm curious about your charging circuit. Did you splice your 3.0 harness to fit the 3.4 alternator? Because when I did mine, I originally used the 3.4 wiring harness to the alternator and didn't change a thing. It didn't work. I had to splice the 3.4 alternator plug onto the end of the 3.0 harness to get the charging circuit to work.

cadman

I basically did the same thing you did, only I connected the 3.0 alternator wire to the 3.4 alternator wire via the white connector.

The white connector is spliced in place of the 3.0 alternator connector, and the wires coming from the 3.4 connector are bundled into the battery harness and go to the alternator. I don't know why Toyota decided to make part of the 3.4 alternator harness a part of the battery harness.




After doing the alternator wiring, I felt there was too much unnecessary wiring and the stock length of the 3.4 battery harness needs more slack, so I'm redoing everything. I already cut out a long section of alternator cable and I'm going to cut off both alternator connectors and shorten the wires.


Made a new, longer battery ground cable. Tinned copper lug and terminal connector soldered in place, #4 copper stranded welding cable.




Another thing to fix. Battery acid leaked into the battery harness protector (my engine came from a rolled 4Runner) and it has slowly disintegrated. Yes, acids can attack some plastics.

cadman

Thank you, sir.

Yes, I'm a lucky guy to have gotten my start as a machinist in his shop. Eventually becoming a Son in Law is definitely a nice perk too