Found a 3.4L!! Finally doing a swap!
#22
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Where as even the most experianced person can always learn something new or in my case, having never delt with a 3.4L before. Swaps i have done, a 3.4L i have not, each engine is different and each needs its own special care.
#23
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Between a rock and a hard place, AZ
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And a good observation. I feel that if someone is so full of them selves that they think they can do something and not have questions ever, then something big will always happen.
Where as even the most experianced person can always learn something new or in my case, having never delt with a 3.4L before. Swaps i have done, a 3.4L i have not, each engine is different and each needs its own special care.
Where as even the most experianced person can always learn something new or in my case, having never delt with a 3.4L before. Swaps i have done, a 3.4L i have not, each engine is different and each needs its own special care.
#25
Registered User
Mechanincally, the swap isn't tough.
Pull the old engine, take the oil pan, dipstick tube, and oil pick up off and swap them to the 3.4. Pull the oil sending unit and swap it for the 3.4s. You'll need to pull the flexplate off and replace it with a 3.4 flywheel. Use a 3.4 clutch and pilot bearing, and the throwout bearing from your 3.0.
Drop the whole works into your truck. Move the battery from the right side to the left side. Use the wiring harness from your 3.4 and splice it into your dash harness using two of the plugs from your 3.0. You'll probably have a plug on the back of the engine computer that will require power and ground added to it. Swap the plug from your 3.4 alternator onto the 3.0 charging harness. Don't cut the 3.0s charging harness off!
Plumb your fuel lines, etc, and a few dozen other little things. It's mechanically easy. Electrically it's not too tough.
Search and ye may find.
Pull the old engine, take the oil pan, dipstick tube, and oil pick up off and swap them to the 3.4. Pull the oil sending unit and swap it for the 3.4s. You'll need to pull the flexplate off and replace it with a 3.4 flywheel. Use a 3.4 clutch and pilot bearing, and the throwout bearing from your 3.0.
Drop the whole works into your truck. Move the battery from the right side to the left side. Use the wiring harness from your 3.4 and splice it into your dash harness using two of the plugs from your 3.0. You'll probably have a plug on the back of the engine computer that will require power and ground added to it. Swap the plug from your 3.4 alternator onto the 3.0 charging harness. Don't cut the 3.0s charging harness off!
Plumb your fuel lines, etc, and a few dozen other little things. It's mechanically easy. Electrically it's not too tough.
Search and ye may find.
#30
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Fillsrunner4 for the Birthday wish.
And as long as it is running, i am 99% certain i will be coming home with it. Nothing would be better than a 3.4L for my 20th!
And I am off now to go and see him, so i'll report when i get back, wish me good luck on getting the 3.4!
And as long as it is running, i am 99% certain i will be coming home with it. Nothing would be better than a 3.4L for my 20th!
And I am off now to go and see him, so i'll report when i get back, wish me good luck on getting the 3.4!
#32
Contributing Member
Thanks Fillsrunner4 for the Birthday wish.
And as long as it is running, i am 99% certain i will be coming home with it. Nothing would be better than a 3.4L for my 20th!
And I am off now to go and see him, so i'll report when i get back, wish me good luck on getting the 3.4!
And as long as it is running, i am 99% certain i will be coming home with it. Nothing would be better than a 3.4L for my 20th!
And I am off now to go and see him, so i'll report when i get back, wish me good luck on getting the 3.4!
#33
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Well i got back from the junkyard and after hearing about it. and the price is just right, i am going to take it. it has 163,456 miles on it. And it wont be put in until my friend moves here later this year. and for those who want to know the price...$500bz or $250 us dollars! In return he gets what i dont use from my 3.0, some spare parts for his 4Runner and the $500 cash that i'll have to pay up front. So when i get it home i'll post pics and threads of my build up and upgrades.
#34
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Well from what i have been told a smooth running 3.4L should get MORE. cause if i was one of the very few 3.0L owners who gets 25MPG just think what i will squeeze out of a 3.4L! As for the selling, the bank would not loan the guy the money. So really it was a blessing in disquise! cause with a new motor and chop and bob and sas and body off frame restoration in the future, well i guess it was just ment to be!
#35
Contributing Member
Well from what i have been told a smooth running 3.4L should get MORE. cause if i was one of the very few 3.0L owners who gets 25MPG just think what i will squeeze out of a 3.4L! As for the selling, the bank would not loan the guy the money. So really it was a blessing in disquise! cause with a new motor and chop and bob and sas and body off frame restoration in the future, well i guess it was just ment to be!
Are you planning on rebuilding it or just dropping it in? with 168k I think I would spent the time to refresh it so it has its full potenial soon as I drop it in and have worry free driving for the next 168k. just my .02
I should be doing my s/c'd URD 3.4 swap as well in the next few weeks so I am going to pay close attention to what you run into along the way. You may also have to get a body lift or cut the hood to fit the 3.4 not sure if you relize that or not but the 3.4 pluinum sits a bit higher then the 3.0 so keep that in mind for your install time and budget.
#36
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Well if you want to know, i plan on buying new pumps, injectors, TRD S/C 2nd gen, E3 spark plugs, complete tear down and clean-up. new belts and fluids. and a fresh paint job. And if funds permit maybe new head gaskets just to be on the safe side.
Plus to fit it i am going to scoop my hood rather than mess around with body lifts that i dont like any way.
And i too am excited to see what MPG i can squeeze out of it.
Plus to fit it i am going to scoop my hood rather than mess around with body lifts that i dont like any way.
And i too am excited to see what MPG i can squeeze out of it.
#37
Registered User
Well if you want to know, i plan on buying new pumps, injectors, TRD S/C 2nd gen, E3 spark plugs, complete tear down and clean-up. new belts and fluids. and a fresh paint job. And if funds permit maybe new head gaskets just to be on the safe side.
Plus to fit it i am going to scoop my hood rather than mess around with body lifts that i dont like any way.
And i too am excited to see what MPG i can squeeze out of it.
Plus to fit it i am going to scoop my hood rather than mess around with body lifts that i dont like any way.
And i too am excited to see what MPG i can squeeze out of it.
Ide also recomend Denso or NGK plugs.
Definetly change all gaskets including the head gasket aspecialy. Be sure if you take the heads off to get them cleaned and decked.
Ceramic Downey headers and an intake will also help you alot.
You said pumps already but be sure if you S/C it you upgrade the fuel pump.
Use some High temp ceramic paint to on the block. it works real nice and is very tuff paint.
Not sure on what ive gotten differently MPG wise with mine but I was going for more power over what it got MPG wise.
#38
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Well, if you must know i get roughly 24MPG when i use premium in m 3.0. i coud get 25 but i just feel like pushing the pedal more
As for the 3.4L, i plan on doing anything you can think of in terms of cleaning and upgrades. the S/C might not come for a while because i'll want to replace and ugrade everything else that i can first. THEN add the real power behind the 3.4L. I hope to bring it home next week so i can start tearing it down and cleaning it as i go. Then order new parts. which is good for me because it will give me a chance to find a 3.4L Manual ECU instead of moddin the auto ECU.
What colour block paint do you recommend? i was thinking chevy orange or GMC blue. Or should i just stick with black?
As for headers i dont think i can afford it so i will probably just get heat wrap and wrap the headers/battery/intake tubing.
As for the 3.4L, i plan on doing anything you can think of in terms of cleaning and upgrades. the S/C might not come for a while because i'll want to replace and ugrade everything else that i can first. THEN add the real power behind the 3.4L. I hope to bring it home next week so i can start tearing it down and cleaning it as i go. Then order new parts. which is good for me because it will give me a chance to find a 3.4L Manual ECU instead of moddin the auto ECU.
What colour block paint do you recommend? i was thinking chevy orange or GMC blue. Or should i just stick with black?
As for headers i dont think i can afford it so i will probably just get heat wrap and wrap the headers/battery/intake tubing.
#39
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Also about the E3 spark plugs, i was watching horse power on spikes power block. and they showed an increase in power and fuel economy by using E3. mind you i dont know what the other plugs they used where.
#40
Registered User
For Piant I did mine red to go with my trucks color scheme. I say paint it a color you like most.
If you go with a manual ECU you do know you will have to get different plugs on the harness and youll have to re-pin them out to match right? Not to big a deal but work and time. Also you want to watch out for different years as some sensors will not be compatible with a diffent year ECU. Get one to match your exact year motor and you should be fine and if you can get the harness to match even better.