mbomberz1

Been in a little bit of a waiting game between parts coming in and hearing back from the machine shop, but we are finally getting close to having the engine back and ready for assembly.

Couple details about what is being done on the engine rebuild:

• all 12 exhaust valves replaced, one was burnt pretty bad they said
• 4 intake valves replaced
• Crank looked great
• All bearings are still standard size
• Cylinders bored +20 over to take care of the scoring in #2
• Full balance of rotating assembly with the new clutch pressure plate!
• Using the LCE master rebuild kit w/ Hypereutectic pistons and MLS headgasket
• LCE Pro clutch kit (hope it drives as good as they say, when I called marlin they basically talked me out of their clutch for the 5vz + supercharger)

Got a shot of the block after they finished honing it when I went to drop off a replacement piston (one from the kit came dinged up lit it was dropped)

Charchee

My swap project is on hold if not cancelled right now. I think I'm going to be moving soon but I may be able to be some help to you. I haven't done a swap before but I do have a 89 4Runner 3.0, A complete 2002 4Runner and a 2000 Parts truck all sitting side by side for reference. The 2000 engine is in my shop next to my computer with the harness attached and the truck has the dash and engine out with the main harness in place. Let me know if I need to look at something for you and I'll sure do it. I also have a 88 3.0 harness hanging on my wall. PM me if I can help.

odonekanobe

I went with the LCE clutch over the Marlin because the Marlin wasn't available at the time. I was a little worried about pedal pressure but I love the LCE clutch. Best I've had. I'm running the S/C too. Hope that helps.

mbomberz1

That is really too bad, cancel it yet, just put it on hold! Are you gonna be able to take everything with you if you end up moving? I might have a question or two or three for you once I get to the point where im pulling out my 3.0, really appriciate the offer. Hope everything with your move works out.

That is great to hear you like the LCE clutch. I had a really hard time finding any reviews on it. What do you like about it so far, I know its subjective but im curious how you feel it compared to your stock clutch. Thanks in advance.



Well I got everything back from the machine shop on wednesday, everything looks great. Cant wait to start putting this thing back together. I wont have a chance to start assembling it until sunday, but I thought I would try to get the block painted and cured before them.



Spent forever masking, hope I didnt miss too many spots.



All freshened up, ready for some new bearings and pistons.

mbomberz1

Got started on the rebuild today. I has been raining quite a bit this weekend, and today was no exception. So I had to pull everything inside and do my best with the little space I had, still was a lot nicer than dealing with the rain.

Stripped off all the masking and flipped the block over, and laid everything out, ready to get this thing together! Just a heads up, this is my first complete engine rebuild I have done myself. Doing my best, but if you have any advice, please feel free to chime in. I am following the FSM step by step.



Got the crank in, ready to torque down. Ran into a little hiccup, had a tight spot when trying to spin it, took the girdle out and reset. Thankfully everything spun nice and smooth from here on.



Got all the pistons, rings and rods assembled. After getting the crank spinning smooth, I thought I was free and clear of any issues. I was wrong!



I got all the pistons in, and began torquing down the rod bolts.



On the #3 rod things went a little south..



Rod stud head snapped off, was quite a weird sensation when it happened. Wasnt quite sure if something broke or if the ratchet in my my wrench somehow skipped a tooth. After some inspecting it was clear, the bolt head broke. Really surpised by this. I am 99% sure I was torquing this down correctly. I torqued both rod bolts on this rod down to 18ft-lbs, then marked them and started the 90 degree final torque turn. The first bolt made it almost all the way to 90, but broke right before. Glad this happened not instead of 1000 miles down the road. Gonna talk to the machine shop and see what they recommend I do, this makes me kind of hesitant to not replace all the rod bolts but I am not really in familiar territory either. What do you guys think?

mbomberz1

Well that is unfortunate, went down to the machine shop this morning and showed them what happened. They had never seen one of these types of rod studs break like that before. They were pretty concerned about it and advised me to put in new studs all around. So its time to pull all the rods and pistons apart again and have them push in new studs. They are going to have to check the rods for round after the new studs are pushed in as well.

Pretty amazed at how many things have gone sideways on this 5vz so far. Seems like mostly it has been the fault of the previous head job, but I dont think the bottom end was ever touched. Ah well, its been a learning experience that is for sure. Hoping to get the rods pulled and dropped off by wednesday for their new studs. If I'm lucky I can get back to work over the weekend.

mbomberz1

Finally had a good weekend to devote to putting the new 3.4 together after getting the rod studs taken care of. Felt great to finally make some real progress and see this thing come together.

First thing I wanted to note here, the 96 FSM that I was using seems to have incorrect torque values noted on the oil pump. I tried to torque all the B bolts down to 31 ft-lbs like it indicates but noticed they were not feeling right. I was stretching out the bolts. I kind of feel like they got the A and B reversed in the diagram. The A bolt is actually a 10mm diameter bolt and the B bolts are 8mm diameter.



So after going down to the hardware store and buying new bolts, it all went together. That is after I got a new O-Ring from the local parts store to go between he block and the Oil Pump. My rebuild kit didnt have one and the FMS definiltey calls out for one. Called the local Toyota dealer and they sounded pretty confused on the phone, and said there was no O-Ring between the oil pump and block on the 5vz. Well there definitely is in the FSM, and a groove in the block for one!



Coming together:



Had to set the valve covers on to get good look at it all in its shiny new glory Cant wait to see this thing slowly dropping down on the engine hoist into the old 88!



Got a few things to order up, need a new knock sensor wiring harness and a seal for the oil cooler bolt. Damn clips on the harness broke the second I tried to take them off the knock sensors to torque em down. Wish I could know what else is gonna go wrong ahead of time so I could put in one final order for all of these little bits! The local dealers charge over MSRP for parts, so I hate to order anything more than a stray bolt from them.

Starting to look like an engine!

Definitely more to come soon.

mbomberz1

After a bunch of fiddling round I finally feel like I am on the home stretch on the engine rebuild.

• Spent some time carefully playing flip the shim with the valves and got them all adjusted
• Put on the timing belt, and got everything adjusted
• Valve and timing covers all torqued down

Just waiting on a new knock sensor wire to show up tomorrow and I can get the intake going.

mbomberz1

Spent most of today cleaning up intake parts and getting what I could buttoned up.

• New knock sensor harness went in
• Got the lower intake manifold installed
• WitchHuntered Injectors popped into place
• Fuel rails bolted down
• Started attaching the engine harness
• Power steering pump installed
• New dipstick!!!

Going to call around tomorrow and see if it is possible to replace the plastic housings that attach the engine harness to the valve covers. Mine are pretty tore up and have no mounting points left, hopefully they sell these separate from a whole harness, knowing how far they usually break down most assemblies, im gonna think positive and say they will!



As you can see, I am missing most of the plastic cover for the left side injector harness area. The right side is missing all of its mounting points as well.



The first real bit of the swap complete! New dip stick installed. Just gotta figure out how to properly plug up the hole in my oil pump housing where the old one was supposed to go.

mbomberz1

Well its about time to start that exhaust cross over. After very carefully measuring as many spots as I could I was finally able to get a half trustworthy mockup together. I have a few pieces of pipe I ordered up to complete this job, but it is my first attempt at anything like this. Should be a very interesting experience! Since I have the newer style crossover to work from, I will have to use all new piping. I plan to cut everything long and slowly grind down each end until it fits. Tack it up and do the final fitting in the truck just to make sure that the drop location fits nicely with the first cat bolted up.



Once i get the cross over into a good spot, time to start pulling the transmission for a rebuild. Not sure what im more stressed about, the crossover or the transmission!

ClintonP929

Looks like you got same computer I had, the middle plug is the immobilizer, so before you get any further on wasting your time wiring up that ecu you should go find another. The ECUs without immobilizer has 4 plugs from what I have found. And your going to have to repin everything like me. I can send you my comparison sheets to make it easy if you'd like.

mbomberz1

Really appreciate the info Clinton, I am curious though.. do you think there is a chance some ECUs have the plug slots but not the circuity for the immobilizer. Its hard to tell from the picture but that center plug location had dust in it like there was nothing ever plugged into it. In addition to that, when I went to cut out the dash harness connectors, there definitely was no connector for the center plug in location. The 4Runner I got the ECU was from a 99 Manual SR5 model which I didnt think had the immobilizer, unlike like the Limited. Was the ECU you had immobilizer trouble with from an auto Limited? Thanks again for stopping by!

mbomberz1

Well things are moving right along. Got the engine all put back together, at least as far as I can get it until it is time to start swapping stuff between the old and new one. Just a couple of final things to button up before I can start the swap:

• Get my AC system evacuated
• Finish tacking up the new crossover
• Rebuild the transmission..
• Hope that Clinton is wrong about my ECU having an immobilizer
• Install the flywheel
• Install new clutch

Outstanding engine items left to solve:

• Oil Pressure Sensor and swap plug wiring to fit
• 3.0 Alternator and adjuster bracket tweak to make it work
• Check 3.0 AC compressor position on 3.4, make sure pulley lines up
• See what is going on with my current power steering high pressure hose compared to the 3.4 pump
• Check out my old style 3.0 engine mounts and how they will work with the new block
• probably a dozen other things I'm not thinking about right now

mbomberz1

The crossover is officially underway and off to a decent start. This is my first adventure into pipe work so I am just going extra slow, wasting a bunch of my time while trying really hard to get everything lined up like a mirror from the original cross over. It has been a fun learning experience so far, I ended up borrowing a friends chop saw and mig welder to get it all mocked up. My dad wants me to try and torch weld it for the final pass once everything is set in stone. Not sure how that is going to go yet.



Took a bunch of measurements, started the crossover and things are going pretty good so far. The Y collector is going to be a pain, hopefully things just start working themselves out.

Charchee

I have parts truck torn apart right now. It's a 2000 4Runner SR5 4WD. The ECM has five receptacles. Two go to the engine harness. I have it in my shop to look at so I know that much. Under the dash where I pulled the ECM from, I see two more plugs from the dash harness. I don't see any others of that type that could possibly reach the back of the ECM. My whole dash harness is intact so that leads me to believe that the ECMs themselves may be the same physically. I would imagine Toyota would have Denso, or whoever made them, build them to be programed for whatever specific application they would be used in. I know that's the way Caterpillar ECMs are made. We would hook them up before we installed the programing for the specific machine.

I don't see a manual transmission vehicle having an immobilizer under any circumstance. I sure wouldn't run away from that ECM without trying it. If it doesn't work, you work wont be for nothing. The other four plugs will be there on any of them.

I've got my parts truck in the carport and the engine, with the harness attached, in my shop floor. Let me know if I can help you out with your wiring. I haven't done a swap before but I might be able to trace something down for you if you need me to. Good luck.

mbomberz1

Thanks for the double check there Charchee, that is good news your ECM has the same connections but also missing the center plug. Sounds like there is a good chance that the 99-00 ECMs had 5 plugs no matter what, and some had immobilizers and some didn't. Appreciate again the offer to trace some wires for me. I am getting closer and closer by the day to finally pulling the 3.0. Almost done with the crossover, gonna pull the transmission this week and hopefully get the rebuild done over the holiday weekend.

Charchee

No problem buddy. I'm pulling my main harness out of my 2000 model right now. I AM going to get it all out without cutting a single wire. Been at it several hours and it ain't fun at all. Why in the world couldn't they have put a connector in the harness where it crosses the front of the truck and where it crosses the dash? This thing has to be 20' long with 100 little connectors that all have to be pulled though the firewall twice.

If anybody has any tricks they know that I might need to know, please let me know. I'm about 3/4 through it now.

mbomberz1

Wish I had some advice for you Charchee, from what I could tell from the diagrams the 3rd gen 4runners had a lot more wiring than my 88!

Well I wasnt as productive as I had hoped over thanksgiving weekend. But I was able to at least get the collector fitted into the crossover and pulled the transmission. Just using a cheap mig welder to do the tacking and it burned through the thin outside walls of the bent pipe a little to easily unfortuntaly. Going to have to try and fill that in as best I can. I dont want to go any farther on the crossover until I can test fit it in the truck, so for now It is on hold.







This greasy thing finally fell out, hope it doesnt turn into too much of a nightmare..



Here goes nothing..



Hopefully my next update will be a fresh clean transmission! haha.. here is to hoping.

mbomberz1

Well I have been making a little progress the last few weeks, its nice to finally see the light at the end of this transmission case

Got the intermediate plate all cleaned up with a fresh coat of paint



Everything all put back together with a new set of bearings, syncros and a couple new bits from marlin! Ended up putting in their first gear thrust washer and the new retainer. As well as a new first gear shift fork that will be going on as soon as i get a few new snap rings in to finish the assembly.





Hope you all are having a good December!

Charchee

Brave soul on that tranny. I don't have enough confidence in myself to take on a project like that. Crossover pipe is looking good.