dntsdad

I didnt use cruise but I know that lots of guys have. MY Goat's thread should have something to help you out. there is lots of good stuff in there.

He used an ORS harness though so you'll have to search for wiring help or study the EWD

neoworm0

I cut up the original CC mounting brackets and modified them so I could bolt the CC actuator to the pass. side fender. Then I dismantled the cable from the actuator and replaced it with a longer one that I made from a bicycle cable.

As for the wiring I just spliced in some extra wire to extend it to the pass. side. It was a pretty simple job.

There are pics in my thread. Link in my sig. Page 4. It has been working flawlessly for about a year now.

GJCruiser

Today was a pretty good day. I'm just about done hooking everything up. I mounted the evap box, vapor pressure sensor, etc. One thing I wish I had done was think out the heater hoses more before I put the 3.4 in. Once the motor is in, it's just a pain to work on the hoses back there. Oh well, got it done.

I'm at the point where pretty much all that's left to do is wire it up. I'll go on to TIS pretty soon and try to understand the job. One thing I did notice that's a little puzzling is the alternator wiring. As I'm working in the engine bay today I noticed I have two alternator harnesses. The original 3.0 harness is still there as it crosses on teh radiator support. Then, there's the 3.4 harness attached to the front of the oil pan coming across. Any idea which one I should remove?

Thanks

RobD

With my swap, I tried using the 3.4 harness first, with no luck. I luckily had kept my 3.0 harness tucked up on the fender. I simply grafted the plug from the 3.4 harness onto the 3.0 harness and bada-bing, I had voltage.

dntsdad

Exactly what I did. The wire colors are even then same.

GJCruiser

Thanks to both. My 3.0 and 3.4 alternator plugs look identical and have the same color wiring. The 3.0 plug inserts inot the 3.4 alternator. So I think I'm good to plug the 3.0 harness into the 3.4 alternator.

So just confirming then--- 1) the harness that runs along the front of the oil pan is only used for the battery = and - , not the alternator. I can "tie off" the alt. plug somewhere. and 2) still need to carry 12V back from the new battery location + across the bay into the fuse box where the 3.0 battery + came out of, correct?

Thanks

RobD

I can't remember exactly what the cable along the oil pan is for, but if memory serves, I tied off my 3.4 charging harness.

The battery will need to be relocated to the driver's side and a positive power lead run across to it, from the fuse box.

GJCruiser

So my goal for the weekend was to complete everything under the hood so that the only task remaining was the wiring (including tach mod). I didn't quite make it. I have to fab or modify the 3.4 battery tray. The 3.4 battery tray will perch on the spot for it ok, but it sits higher than the 3.0 tray. I'm worried that I'll be locked into a too small battery so I'll either cut the 3.4 tray down in height or start over from scratch.

One more thing, I'm rereading all the threads to help make sure I haven't forgotten anything. In Elvota's thread I see the part about the fuel return line flip and I go "DOH". I flipped the supply while the motor was out but not the return! I wasn't too bad to do with the motor in and it worked great just like in Elvota's thread. Now I confused about it's connection.

I have two hard lines coming from under the chassis that went to the 3.0 canister. I'm using the 3.4 EVAP box and I see according to Elvota's thread that the line that went to the "tank" fitting on the 3.0 canister goes to a similar spot on the 3.4 EVAP box. So that leaves me with the other line that went to the 3.0 canister and I still haven't hooked up the fuel return line. I don't think these two go together so I must have two remaining plumbing problems. Any help?

Thanks,

Gerry

GJCruiser

Everything is done under the hood. I've been on to TIS and have been downloading any pdf which looks pertinent fro both vehicles.

Can anyone help with two questions to help me start the wiring. I understand matching up the electrical functions and I have a lot of studying to do. I confused about the mechanical issue of what's needed for wiring.

My donor is a 99 4Runner and the complete vehicle is in my driveway. The 3.4 engine harness from it has three white plugs,two of which plugged to the ECU and another larger one with a lever lock plugged into the 4Runner body harness. There were two more plugs (one black and one white) from the body in the 4Runner that were unplugged fron the ECU and also remain in the 4Runner.

The 3.0 engine harness removed from my 93 truck had three grey plugs which filled the 3.0 ECU. Also attached to the harness were 1 grey and 1 white plug unplugged from the 93 body harness. So now I have the 3.4 ECU in the truck, the large white lever lock plug attached to the 3.4 engine harness, the two empty plugs in the chassis (white and grey), and then the two plugs left in the 4Runner that used to go into the ECU. Can someone show me how to start thinking about what has to be cut and grafted?

GJCruiser

A second question. The speed sensor on the 93 way at the back of the transfer case has three conductors. Nothing on the 3.4 harness I've run has three conductors and, in fact, the donor 4Runner doesn't even have a speed sensor in the corresponding place. Can anyone help with what I need to do here?

Thanks, with only wiring, I'm really close.

RobD

Shoot, I wish I could help. All I can do is tell you what I did in my case. My 3.4 is from a '97 Tacoma and went into my '91 4Runner.

The rear of my 3.4 ECU looks like this:



I had 3 plugs on the engine harness that plugged straight into the back of it with no issue. What I didn't have was the fourth plug. Fortunately, my 3.0 harness had one that I clipped off of it. If memory serves (and don't quote me) I believe there were only 8 or 9 wires that I had to splice, things like +12v and switched 12v. Something along those lines.

I clipped these two plugs (engine side 3.0) off and wired them to the 3.4 harness, replacing the engine side 3.4 plugs so they mated with the underdash plugs on the 4Runner.



I hope this helps even just a little.

GJCruiser

That does help. It's amazing how different the various years are. My 3.4 ECU needs 5 plugs, 3 of which come straight from the engine harness. But I figured out 1 of them left in the vehicle dash harness is for the security system so I don't need it. The 5th plug needed for the ECU (the 2nd one left in the dash harness) appears to be power and switched power. That sounds similar to yours.

If I follow you correctly then your second paragragh shows the two plugs (grey and white) that you took from the 3.0 engine harness. Those plugs look like what I have as well. Then I get i little lost. Then did you cut the plug off of the 3.4 engine side and wire these in there?

I can't find what those two plugs on the 3.0 engine harness do? That's part of my problem. Looking in TIS I can't find their function.

Thanks

dntsdad

You do not have a speedo sendor in the transfer case of the donor runner. It uses signals from the ABS sensors for that. If your old tranny had it pulls it from there. Otherwise Marlin sells one for a ridiculous amount of money.

I discovered the same issue after everything ran but the speedo didnt work.

On the speedo sensor there are three wires. They hooked into my wires in my kickpanel. One is the ground for the sensor, one power, and one signal to the speedo 4P. The S on the speedo comes back the ECM "speed sendor" wire. I was getting CEL until this was done as I think that the ECM needs this to "see" how fast the truck is going.

I did a small write up on page 9 of my thread. Let me know if you have issues and I'll try to help before my memory gets foggy.

Jason

GJCruiser

Just found the grey and white connectors on the 3.0 engine harness-they're C1 and C2. Now I have to find there function. Man, there's a lot of stuff in TIS and there's a lot of "digging".

dntsdad

just reread this a bit. Sounds like you have the speed sensor already in your old tranny. You will use that and connect to what you just found as the C1 and C2. Just match up the wire colors.

Also, out of the 3.4 wiring there will be a red/?? wire that connects in with the signal wire so the ECM is getting info as well.

RobD

Yeah, that's pretty much what I did. Cross-referenced the pins for the under dash harness and spliced them onto the two 3.0 plugs. Mine were labelled IH1 and IH2 on the wiring diagrams for the 3.0, and the 3.4 side was labelled IK1 and IK2.

For example, on the body harness side of my 4Runner, IH2 pin 14 is for the coolant temp sender and IH2 pin 20 is for the tach. From the engine side of the 3.4, the coolant temp sender corresponded to IK2 pin 3 and the tach was IK2 pin 7. Move the wires over to the proper pins and voila.

Some pins didn't have any functions, like the airbag wiring for example, so they are capped off.

Clear as mud yet?

GJCruiser

It runs! A little too much! I'll tell you about that in a moment. The body plug on the donor is II3 which corresponds to C1 and C2 in the 93 chassis. In addition, E12 and E14 are the new plugs in to the 3.4 ECM. What I did was make a "conversion harness" among these five plugs. That way I can unplug it to debug then plug back in.

Anyway, took most of the day to get it to crank, then run. All just a wire here and there. I have not hooked up any wires for the ODB data connector or the A/C amplifier. I also have not run the 3.0 speedo wires from the Transfer up into the cab. But I got it to start!

Problem is --starts right up and immediately wants to go to redline and beyond, I fear. Have to shut it down immediately. The throttle cable is loose on the body so as not to pull the throttle open.

Knowing I could still have a missing or misplaced wire can anyone help me understand how to trouble shoot idle circuit?

Thanks

GJCruiser

Drove it for the first time yesterday. Strong, smooth, and quiet. You may remember I used the complete exhaust from the donor 99 4Runner. Truck really runs nice!

To fill in some details, the throttle cable was responsible for the fast idle. I didn't realize just how little the throttle plate has to be open for the engine to really roar! The throttle cable just wouldn't adjust out enough to allow the throttle plate to close so the idle circuit could take over. The only fix was to remake the bracket on the intake to move the cable end closer to the throttle body. I've never heard of anyone else having to do that. Oh well it works perfectly after some fab. By the way, I put both throttle cables side-by-side and they are identical.

GJCruiser

To add detail to the previous post, the throttle pedals in the vehicles ARE quite different. That's where the length difference comes in. I just couldn't see a way to swap pedals very easily.

Also, I reused the 3.0 harness for the VSS and wired it in. You also have to tell the ECU. What was SPD on the 3.0 ECU is now SP1 on the 3.4 ECU. Both speedometer and odometer work correctly.

I have no CELs (yet) knock on wood. I have not wired anything for the A/C amplifier yet either.

I am facing three wiring issues.

Back up lights. In the 3.4 harness, the switch comes into the cab on II3-19 and II3-20. I don't have the page for the 93 chassis to show that light anywhere. I must not have grabbed that page on TIS. Without following the wire from the back of the truck forward, I can't find where to connect the switch.

The water temp is really simple and I've checked my wiring a dozen times. Gauge goes nowhere. Has anyone had to swap sending units from 3.0 into 3.4? Both vehicles have temp guages, just wondering if anyone had to swap senders to make guage work.

Oil pressure-same problem- gauge goes nowhere. This problem is a little different. Whereby for the water, both are labled water temp sender, but for oil, the 3.0 is labeled oil sender but on the 3.4 it's marked oil pressure switch. There is not gauge on the donor, just light. Has anyone been able to swap the older sender in here to activate the oil pressure gauge?

Thanks,

GJCruiser

Duh! Sometimes I'm not"all there". Of course I changed the oil sender to the 3.0 when I had the block out! That's not the problem, something else is.