1997 t100 4wd 5spd ext cab
#1
1997 t100 3.4L 4wd 5spd ext cab
Hi guys so 5 days ago my T100 took a dump on me, i was driving down the road and it just shut off on me while i was driving, tried starting it and it wouldnt start, towed it back home and tried again,it just kept cranking and cranking with no luck of starting, i changed my battery terminal wires, fuel pump and filter, changed the crankshaft sensor and the coil packs and wires and still nothing, the battery is good, and all fuses and relays are good, dont think i was getting a spark though took out the wires and one coil pack put a screw driver in it and saw no spark, at a bump at this point anything would really help, thank you. Its my daily as well so anything would really help.
Last edited by Keston Robles; 02-14-2017 at 12:41 PM. Reason: Forget to mention something.
#2
I suggest this a lot cause it's often overlooked, have you taken a look at the intake system? Check to make sure your filter is clean. Also check out your mass air flow sensor. I would just take off the whole intake and inspect it all right up to the throttle body and idle air control valve. Even a small piece of a paper towel in your intake is enough to shut things down. Keep us updated on how it goes.
#3
I suggest this a lot cause it's often overlooked, have you taken a look at the intake system? Check to make sure your filter is clean. Also check out your mass air flow sensor. I would just take off the whole intake and inspect it all right up to the throttle body and idle air control valve. Even a small piece of a paper towel in your intake is enough to shut things down. Keep us updated on how it goes.
#4
Registered User
If you truly don't have spark, it isn't likely anything related to the intake side of things. You say 97... that should be OBDII... did you put a scanner on it to see if there are any codes? That's the first thing I would do.
#5
You need to better verify spark and fuel. Get a can of starting fluid and give the motor a spritz at the brake booster port and see if it coughs a bit. If it does you have a fuel problem
Check the spark by pulling out a plug wire from the driver side and plug in a spark plug. Hold the base of the plug against engine metal to insure good ground.
May as well take a compression reading while you're at it. Did you happen to check your crank/cam timing? Its possible you skipped a tooth or two on the timing belt. These are non interference motors FYI so it won't bend any valves.
Check the spark by pulling out a plug wire from the driver side and plug in a spark plug. Hold the base of the plug against engine metal to insure good ground.
May as well take a compression reading while you're at it. Did you happen to check your crank/cam timing? Its possible you skipped a tooth or two on the timing belt. These are non interference motors FYI so it won't bend any valves.
#6
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
I agree with the rest, validate if you actually have spark or not. Get an OBD2 reader on it and see what it's saying for error codes. If you don't have one, several parts stores will let you use one, not sure if you could take it home or not though always heard of it being free to use in the parking lot. Pretty sure there is a way to check codes w\o a scanner by jumping a couple of pins, but I don't remember where I saw those instructions.
To me, cranking with no response at all seems like no fuel. Even with a bad mass airflow sensor, it should stumble for a second or two then die. The fuel relay could be bad, I know you said "all" are fine, but this one is behind the glove box mounted on the body. It has 2 fields that can be energized to kick the fuel pump on, one field could be bad (crank side in this case). While you're in there, you could make a jumper wire and force the fuel pump to run as a temp test. I'm not sure how common fuel pumps go out for Toyotas, but that's another possible fueling issue, but the 40+ I've bought/worked with never had a bad fuel pump.
If you truly have no spark, I'd check igniter, computer, and wiring between the two. Unlikely all 3 coils would go bad at once (did for me, but I created problems switching computers lol). The ECU has a small self test that you can check the results of. Turn the key on, and the check engine light should be on. If not then the computer could be bad, but I'd validate the bulb isn't blown first.
Keep us posted, and good look.
Oh "pro tip" don't blindly throw parts at the problem. Diag what the issue and and work from there, it's so much cheaper in the long run.
To me, cranking with no response at all seems like no fuel. Even with a bad mass airflow sensor, it should stumble for a second or two then die. The fuel relay could be bad, I know you said "all" are fine, but this one is behind the glove box mounted on the body. It has 2 fields that can be energized to kick the fuel pump on, one field could be bad (crank side in this case). While you're in there, you could make a jumper wire and force the fuel pump to run as a temp test. I'm not sure how common fuel pumps go out for Toyotas, but that's another possible fueling issue, but the 40+ I've bought/worked with never had a bad fuel pump.
If you truly have no spark, I'd check igniter, computer, and wiring between the two. Unlikely all 3 coils would go bad at once (did for me, but I created problems switching computers lol). The ECU has a small self test that you can check the results of. Turn the key on, and the check engine light should be on. If not then the computer could be bad, but I'd validate the bulb isn't blown first.
Keep us posted, and good look.
Oh "pro tip" don't blindly throw parts at the problem. Diag what the issue and and work from there, it's so much cheaper in the long run.