View Poll Results: Do you use a torque wrench?
Yes, (this means even for minor items like spark plugs, lugnuts, oil drain plug).
117
30.00%
Sometimes, this means for like head bolts, tranmission bolts, etc.
205
52.56%
No, I use touchy, feely method.
68
17.44%
Voters: 390. You may not vote on this poll
How many of you use torque wrenchs?
#61
Registered User
I just picked up the 1/2" version of the digitork unit from Craftsman. I got the 3/8" last year. I've had a few instances where the 3/8" ran out of measurement...
#62
Registered User
i've heard some things about those digitork wrenches, like the handles breaking. i used to always want a craftsman wrench until i started working in the rental biz...all we use at work are proto, and we rent the same tools we work in the shop with.
i'm even thinking about splurging and replacing my craftsman ratchets with proto ones.
i'm even thinking about splurging and replacing my craftsman ratchets with proto ones.
#64
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It depends. Working on a something that is either TTY, like head bolts, or made from aluminum, i use the torque wrench. If its a steel part, like steel rims, valve cover's, oil pan, stuff like that, i just crank on it, uless of course it has a specific spec.. Its how ive always done it.
Last edited by joez; 01-20-2005 at 08:51 AM.
#65
Registered User
Originally Posted by Cebby
I haven't heard of these problems. Not sure how this could break unless the wrench was dropped - which is a nono for torque wrenches anyway.
i think the most important thing is getting one that a shop can calibrate!
#66
Registered User
Originally Posted by mt_goat
Yes it should be torqued less if the threads are lubricated.
The torque wrench will give an approximation that the proper bolt preload has been reached and this approximation is based on turning friction at the bolt/nut thread connection. If you grease or apply never-seize to the threads of your fasteners this will lower the friction at the thread connection and the torque wrench approximation will be different that if your threads were dry. The less friction there is at the thread connection more preload you are putting on the bolt for the same torque wrench reading.
The torque wrench will give an approximation that the proper bolt preload has been reached and this approximation is based on turning friction at the bolt/nut thread connection. If you grease or apply never-seize to the threads of your fasteners this will lower the friction at the thread connection and the torque wrench approximation will be different that if your threads were dry. The less friction there is at the thread connection more preload you are putting on the bolt for the same torque wrench reading.
#67
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: 100 miles offshore as much as possible, & Springfield Oregon USA
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I have a selection of torque wrenches. It is very important to select the proper wrench to pound in the correct screw...
#69
Originally Posted by Mohamed
...Of course as you know, with craftsman, any time a tool breaks, take it to Sears for a free replacement, no questions asked! Gotta love that!
#70
Originally Posted by kyle_22r
...i used to always want a craftsman wrench until i started working in the rental biz...all we use at work are proto, and we rent the same tools we work in the shop with.
i'm even thinking about splurging and replacing my craftsman ratchets with proto ones.
i'm even thinking about splurging and replacing my craftsman ratchets with proto ones.
#71
Registered User
if you torque it and it breaks you needed a new one anyways.
touchy-feely works for most bolts, usually 2 grunts and a fart is plenty tight.
snap-on recommends that their 'click type' be calibrated annually and be reset to zero when not in use. i prefer my bar type from craftsman which doubles as a breaker bar (˟˟˟˟˟ how'd it get THAT tight). a necessity in any engine rebuild.
touchy-feely works for most bolts, usually 2 grunts and a fart is plenty tight.
snap-on recommends that their 'click type' be calibrated annually and be reset to zero when not in use. i prefer my bar type from craftsman which doubles as a breaker bar (˟˟˟˟˟ how'd it get THAT tight). a necessity in any engine rebuild.
#72
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Many engina parts can be made from soft aluminum so proper torque specs can be important since overtightening can happen very easily and crush aluminum and now you have an fix that is just throwing $$$ away instead of using the proper tool.
#73
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Join Date: Dec 2004
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I always use a torque wrench on all my stuff, especially my rims. According to my uncle, who does a lot of mechanical things, if you dont use a torque wrench, you can bend things on your rims or whatever you may be tightening. I am a torque wrench user, but if ya wanna do the touchy feel thing, go for it, just be careful. Good luck.
#74
I recently started using the torque-wrench for wheels (80lb/ft). Before was using a regular 2 foot breaker bar until it felt snug, after the wrench I realized I was torque-ing it to around 150-180lb/ft.
#76
Registered User
when i got my tire patched this weekend, they used a torque wrench after the impact driver to verify spec, its tire pros new policy. thats the first time ive EVER (25+ driving years) seen one used on any of my wheels.
#77
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i use a tq wrench for almost every tighting sequence when i work on vehicles. probably not needed on eveyrthing, but there are some critical fasteners that if you dont use one, your just not serious about what your doing. also, on the first page(from 2002!) someone said that tq's are very inacurrate. totaly not true. like all things, you get what you pay for. I have a Stahlwille manoskop(german tool company, the manaskop is required tool for all vag dealerships in europe) vag=volkswage audi group. anyways, tq will always be the most accurate in the middle of their adjustment range, and worse at the highest. mine has been professionally calibrated, and tested:
in the middle of the range, its accurate to one tenth of one percent! the most mine is off is at its highest setting, one of the pulls(they do 3 pulls at bottom, middle top of range) measured 2 percent off, but the other 2 pulls were 1.5. thats why the manoskop is arguably the best non-electronic tq in the world. there are some things ill buy from harbor freight, but a tq, or anything precision for that matter, is not it.
in the middle of the range, its accurate to one tenth of one percent! the most mine is off is at its highest setting, one of the pulls(they do 3 pulls at bottom, middle top of range) measured 2 percent off, but the other 2 pulls were 1.5. thats why the manoskop is arguably the best non-electronic tq in the world. there are some things ill buy from harbor freight, but a tq, or anything precision for that matter, is not it.
Last edited by motoracer47; 09-29-2005 at 10:39 PM.
#78
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Join Date: Jan 2006
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Originally Posted by surf4runner
when i got my tire patched this weekend, they used a torque wrench after the impact driver to verify spec, its tire pros new policy. thats the first time ive EVER (25+ driving years) seen one used on any of my wheels.
Impacts should never be used to tighten lug nuts (maybe to spin them down, but not tighten). There is no way to verify what the torque is when using the impact (unless they have a calibrated impact, but I have only seen them in manufacturing plants...).
I have had tire shops tell me they could tell what the torque is by how the impact *feels*, and I made them loosen them and use a torque wrench (that they had to find as they never use it...). There is one exception to using a torque wrench for tightening, and that is if they use the proper torque stick (which this shop had and again never use). I don't use them anymore, even for my free rotations.
hupptoy
#79
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#80
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i will be now since i just picked up a torque wrench. mostly for suspension/driveline components as well as wheels. spark and drain plugs...maybe not so much.