Whats The Best SAS
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Whats The Best SAS
Looking for your opinion, which is the best, and that can be, cheapest, easiest, strongest... What would you do, if you were going to do it again? Diamond Axle, D44, Toy 85? (Thats just off the top of my head) What kit did you use and why? TG, Marlin, ORS? (Again, just off the top of my head) Thanks
Last edited by yodathespian87; 04-10-2009 at 12:01 PM.
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Yeah I was looking around and there was no good answer. Perhaps, you could clear some things up for me. It looks like you are using Toy SA on your rigs, Is that the way to go?
#4
Toyota SFA 81 to 85
SAS Kit
Installationin structions are on the website and that should explain most of it.
I have 3 SFA Toyotas myself and prefer them to converting an IFS as it is a LOT easier.
I run all the stuf I sell and then some.
There are tons of threads on this forum about SAS build ups. Find a few with a search and do some reading.
Got any specific questions about parts just email me.
SAS Kit
Installationin structions are on the website and that should explain most of it.
I have 3 SFA Toyotas myself and prefer them to converting an IFS as it is a LOT easier.
I run all the stuf I sell and then some.
There are tons of threads on this forum about SAS build ups. Find a few with a search and do some reading.
Got any specific questions about parts just email me.
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Yeah I have been reading everything I can get my hands on. There is some great threads on here. Can Spidertrax housings be used? Or are they not for Toy's? I like the 2nd generation 4Runners so I will have to cut all that IFS out and SAS. Thanks for your help, every thread I think I have read on any subject you have posted some very helpful advice.
#6
Toyota IFS...use a Toyota SFA or a Diamond if keeping the rear Toyota axle.
I am a Toyota person, so I use Toyota parts. I don't like Toys on 1 tons or other bastardized stuff, but that is just me. If I want something other than Toyota I will just build that and use a tube chassis.
2nd gen 4Runners has coils in the rear so you will have to address that as well.
I am a Toyota person, so I use Toyota parts. I don't like Toys on 1 tons or other bastardized stuff, but that is just me. If I want something other than Toyota I will just build that and use a tube chassis.
2nd gen 4Runners has coils in the rear so you will have to address that as well.
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Yeah I would like to keep it all toyota under there but the strength of the diamond would help ensure that I'm not down there fixing everything down the road. Yeah and I would have to the rears to. I figure on doing it all at the same time with lockers and re-gearing.
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So I was surfing craigslist and a guy is selling his axles off of a 69 land cruiser for $200. Is that a good deal and will those work? They are 8" if that helps any I don't really know what that means...
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what model FJ? Check to make sure thew front is passenger offset diff and the rear has a center mounted diff. I've also heard the spline count is smaller or different that the mini truck axles.
You can use the FJ axles from various years but they get a little more expensive to build up when compared to mini truck axles.
G/Luck
You can use the FJ axles from various years but they get a little more expensive to build up when compared to mini truck axles.
G/Luck
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Also the rear axle will be offset to the Pass side just like the front axle.
Stick with a 81-85 mini truck axle.
I actually prefer to convert IFS rigs to solid axle than working with earlier models. It allows you a lot more options for front axle placement since the frame tubes aren't already welded in place.
Honestly, having done 30+ swaps to both rigs, I think the IFS converts easier. No cutting of the inner fenders for the shock hoops, IFS box is already in place, etc. IMO there is just as much fabwork involved in an 79-85 rig as an 86-95 IFS rig. When I start an IFS rig, I can have the entire IFS and brackets cut off the frame in less than an hour. I can't even come close to that with an 85'.
I also prefer the IFS interiors and SR5 packages better. Just preference though.
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Well thanks then I won't get those axles. And I will keep my eyes open for Toyota SFA. I just want to have something thats going to work great and not break on me.
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Thanks ScottyC, right after the engine swap I will do that. ScottyC How do you like those Rock Assault housings? From the pictures looks like you just use the Toy axles.
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I wheel medium. Snow, mud, everything really but boulders (thats un-needed body damage). And for light of foot, not really the case... I'm doing a 3.4 swap, 22 years old, yeah you get the idea...
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If you run 35"+ tires with 190hp and a heavy foot, sooner or later you are going to break the Toyota axles. Then you can spend a lot of money to beef up the Toyota axles with stronger parts but the differential becomes the weak point and those are expensive when they are geared and locked. With built Toyota axles, a 3.4, and your foot I think you are going to break the rear shafts and rear differential. Toyota axles are not weak you just need to be a little easy on the gas.
If you want to beat the hell out of it would look at a Dana 60 for front, and a Dana 70u for the rear. The D70u has a smooth bottom so it doesn’t get hung up all the time. These axles are more work to get under the truck and cost more money, but with a few upgrades to the front axle you will be able to beat on them with 40" tires and not worry about breaking. They are also wider and heavier so they are more stable off road. The ground clearance is not as good as a Toyota axle, so I would run 37"+ tires with these axles. You will also get worse gas mileage because they weigh more.
I hate to see people spend lots of money on Toyota axles, then sell them for half of what it cost to build them because they are not strong enough and they want 1tons.
Both axles have good points and bad points here are some links and pictures hopefully they will help.
Strong Toyota axle shafts http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/
Information on D70 http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/D70/D70.htm
Information on D60 http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/
SAS kit for 1tons on a Toyota http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new...uct.php?id=184
D70u.
Sky’s 4runner on 1tons
If you want to beat the hell out of it would look at a Dana 60 for front, and a Dana 70u for the rear. The D70u has a smooth bottom so it doesn’t get hung up all the time. These axles are more work to get under the truck and cost more money, but with a few upgrades to the front axle you will be able to beat on them with 40" tires and not worry about breaking. They are also wider and heavier so they are more stable off road. The ground clearance is not as good as a Toyota axle, so I would run 37"+ tires with these axles. You will also get worse gas mileage because they weigh more.
I hate to see people spend lots of money on Toyota axles, then sell them for half of what it cost to build them because they are not strong enough and they want 1tons.
Both axles have good points and bad points here are some links and pictures hopefully they will help.
Strong Toyota axle shafts http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/
Information on D70 http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/D70/D70.htm
Information on D60 http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/
SAS kit for 1tons on a Toyota http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new...uct.php?id=184
D70u.
Sky’s 4runner on 1tons
Last edited by whokrz; 04-22-2009 at 10:46 AM.