Replaced Circuit Opening Relay now no power at all? Please help!
04-01-2016, 10:25 AM
#21
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Mmmmmk.
After cleaning the cable and accidentally touching the negative terminal with the end of my ratchet causing a bunch of sparks, jumping Fp and B+ works again.
I've checked all of the fuses on the passenger side and inside the hood. All seem to be okay. I have no idea on why it's not getting power... Maybe the COR I replaced the original one with is no good as well?
After cleaning the cable and accidentally touching the negative terminal with the end of my ratchet causing a bunch of sparks, jumping Fp and B+ works again.
I've checked all of the fuses on the passenger side and inside the hood. All seem to be okay. I have no idea on why it's not getting power... Maybe the COR I replaced the original one with is no good as well?
04-01-2016, 01:08 PM
#22
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Alllright.
I replaced the EFI relay, didn't do anything.
Checked the fuses, and one of the 15 amps was blown. Not sure if it was the one to the EFI or not but I replaced it.
Sadly the fuel pump still didn't turn on
Anymore suggestions?
I replaced the EFI relay, didn't do anything.
Checked the fuses, and one of the 15 amps was blown. Not sure if it was the one to the EFI or not but I replaced it.
Sadly the fuel pump still didn't turn on
Anymore suggestions?
04-01-2016, 06:10 PM
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Fuel pump is works as I've connected a 12V battery to it and it turned on no problem. Jumping Fp and B+ also turns it on.
04-01-2016, 06:11 PM
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04-05-2016, 10:25 AM
#27
Make a test light(since I'll bet you don't have one of those either).
3 wires and a 12V bulb. 1 wire between the positive terminal on the battery and the farthest left pin on the VAFM. 1 wire between the next farthest left pin on the VAFM and one side/terminal of the 12V bulb. Ground the other side/terminal of the 12V bulb with the 3rd wire(battery negative terminal, or bare engine/body metal if the battery is grounded).
If you can't get the bulb to light up by pushing the measuring plate towards the rear, then there's your problem. If it does light up, it's good.
3 wires and a 12V bulb. 1 wire between the positive terminal on the battery and the farthest left pin on the VAFM. 1 wire between the next farthest left pin on the VAFM and one side/terminal of the 12V bulb. Ground the other side/terminal of the 12V bulb with the 3rd wire(battery negative terminal, or bare engine/body metal if the battery is grounded).
If you can't get the bulb to light up by pushing the measuring plate towards the rear, then there's your problem. If it does light up, it's good.
Last edited by MudHippy; 04-05-2016 at 10:27 AM.
04-05-2016, 05:02 PM
#28
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Make a test light(since I'll bet you don't have one of those either).
3 wires and a 12V bulb. 1 wire between the positive terminal on the battery and the farthest left pin on the VAFM. 1 wire between the next farthest left pin on the VAFM and one side/terminal of the 12V bulb. Ground the other side/terminal of the 12V bulb with the 3rd wire(battery negative terminal, or bare engine/body metal if the battery is grounded).
If you can't get the bulb to light up by pushing the measuring plate towards the rear, then there's your problem. If it does light up, it's good.
3 wires and a 12V bulb. 1 wire between the positive terminal on the battery and the farthest left pin on the VAFM. 1 wire between the next farthest left pin on the VAFM and one side/terminal of the 12V bulb. Ground the other side/terminal of the 12V bulb with the 3rd wire(battery negative terminal, or bare engine/body metal if the battery is grounded).
If you can't get the bulb to light up by pushing the measuring plate towards the rear, then there's your problem. If it does light up, it's good.
So I'd pretty much just do the same thing as if I were to do it with the bulb?
Funny thing is, I don't think I have an air flow meter xD
https://www.dropbox.com/s/cb61c4iw95...%20PM.jpg?dl=0
It should be in the bottom right yea?
04-06-2016, 07:57 AM
#29
Ok, it's good to clear that much up then...finally. You have a 22R engine. You don't have a VAFM because it's not EFI. If it was it would be a 22R-E. Which does not have a carburetor.
And I know little about carbureted engines. Much less their electrical systems. But I can look in the FSM just like anybody else. Let me see what I find there.
Wait...WTF...back the truck up. There's something fishy going on there. No VAFM. Yet there's the plug for it where it should be. Or rather where it shouldn't be, because it's not an EFI engine.
It looks like someone has swapped a 22R(4 cyl.) or 20R(4cyl.) into your 86-89 4Runner that originally had either a 22R-E(4 cyl.) or a 3VZ-E(V6). I barely know what a 20R or 22R looks like(so I don't know which it is). The answer to what the original engine was is on the info plate on the firewall there. If the model code starts with RN = 22R/22R-E, if the model code starts with VZN = 3VZ-E. If after the dash there is no E in the code, it's not EFI(and the engine would have been a carbureted 22R originally). The other info plate on the driver's side door jam says what year it is(if not on the same info plate as the model code).
Soooooooooooo...you might just need to jump the 2 pins on that connector(black rectangular 7 pins 3 bumps one side 2 bumps the other) which correspond to the 2 pins on the VAFM I was refering to. It looks like the connector is upside down, so the top 2 pins as seen in the pic. That should make the fuel pump run without Fp and +B jumped. If I'm right about what I'm looking at there(pretty sure I am). But then again, it might not work. Because god only knows what's been done to the wiring. It's no longer a stock setup. And the chances of getting any help from me deciphering what exactly is going on there will likely be slim to none. Sorry, I've never done that swap. Wouldn't have a clue how that works. Not to mention my lack of expertise when it comes to these 4 cylinder engines.
And I know little about carbureted engines. Much less their electrical systems. But I can look in the FSM just like anybody else. Let me see what I find there.
Wait...WTF...back the truck up. There's something fishy going on there. No VAFM. Yet there's the plug for it where it should be. Or rather where it shouldn't be, because it's not an EFI engine.
It looks like someone has swapped a 22R(4 cyl.) or 20R(4cyl.) into your 86-89 4Runner that originally had either a 22R-E(4 cyl.) or a 3VZ-E(V6). I barely know what a 20R or 22R looks like(so I don't know which it is). The answer to what the original engine was is on the info plate on the firewall there. If the model code starts with RN = 22R/22R-E, if the model code starts with VZN = 3VZ-E. If after the dash there is no E in the code, it's not EFI(and the engine would have been a carbureted 22R originally). The other info plate on the driver's side door jam says what year it is(if not on the same info plate as the model code).
Soooooooooooo...you might just need to jump the 2 pins on that connector(black rectangular 7 pins 3 bumps one side 2 bumps the other) which correspond to the 2 pins on the VAFM I was refering to. It looks like the connector is upside down, so the top 2 pins as seen in the pic. That should make the fuel pump run without Fp and +B jumped. If I'm right about what I'm looking at there(pretty sure I am). But then again, it might not work. Because god only knows what's been done to the wiring. It's no longer a stock setup. And the chances of getting any help from me deciphering what exactly is going on there will likely be slim to none. Sorry, I've never done that swap. Wouldn't have a clue how that works. Not to mention my lack of expertise when it comes to these 4 cylinder engines.
Last edited by MudHippy; 04-06-2016 at 09:57 AM.
04-06-2016, 11:13 AM
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Ok, it's good to clear that much up then...finally. You have a 22R engine. You don't have a VAFM because it's not EFI. If it was it would be a 22R-E. Which does not have a carburetor.
And I know little about carbureted engines. Much less their electrical systems. But I can look in the FSM just like anybody else. Let me see what I find there.
Wait...WTF...back the truck up. There's something fishy going on there. No VAFM. Yet there's the plug for it where it should be. Or rather where it shouldn't be, because it's not an EFI engine.
It looks like someone has swapped a 22R(4 cyl.) or 20R(4cyl.) into your 86-89 4Runner that originally had either a 22R-E(4 cyl.) or a 3VZ-E(V6). I barely know what a 20R or 22R looks like(so I don't know which it is). The answer to what the original engine was is on the info plate on the firewall there. If the model code starts with RN = 22R/22R-E, if the model code starts with VZN = 3VZ-E. If after the dash there is no E in the code, it's not EFI(and the engine would have been a carbureted 22R originally). The other info plate on the driver's side door jam says what year it is(if not on the same info plate as the model code).
Soooooooooooo...you might just need to jump the 2 pins on that connector(black rectangular 7 pins 3 bumps one side 2 bumps the other) which correspond to the 2 pins on the VAFM I was refering to. It looks like the connector is upside down, so the top 2 pins as seen in the pic. That should make the fuel pump run without Fp and +B jumped. If I'm right about what I'm looking at there(pretty sure I am). But then again, it might not work. Because god only knows what's been done to the wiring. It's no longer a stock setup. And the chances of getting any help from me deciphering what exactly is going on there will likely be slim to none. Sorry, I've never done that swap. Wouldn't have a clue how that works. Not to mention my lack of expertise when it comes to these 4 cylinder engines.
And I know little about carbureted engines. Much less their electrical systems. But I can look in the FSM just like anybody else. Let me see what I find there.
Wait...WTF...back the truck up. There's something fishy going on there. No VAFM. Yet there's the plug for it where it should be. Or rather where it shouldn't be, because it's not an EFI engine.
It looks like someone has swapped a 22R(4 cyl.) or 20R(4cyl.) into your 86-89 4Runner that originally had either a 22R-E(4 cyl.) or a 3VZ-E(V6). I barely know what a 20R or 22R looks like(so I don't know which it is). The answer to what the original engine was is on the info plate on the firewall there. If the model code starts with RN = 22R/22R-E, if the model code starts with VZN = 3VZ-E. If after the dash there is no E in the code, it's not EFI(and the engine would have been a carbureted 22R originally). The other info plate on the driver's side door jam says what year it is(if not on the same info plate as the model code).
Soooooooooooo...you might just need to jump the 2 pins on that connector(black rectangular 7 pins 3 bumps one side 2 bumps the other) which correspond to the 2 pins on the VAFM I was refering to. It looks like the connector is upside down, so the top 2 pins as seen in the pic. That should make the fuel pump run without Fp and +B jumped. If I'm right about what I'm looking at there(pretty sure I am). But then again, it might not work. Because god only knows what's been done to the wiring. It's no longer a stock setup. And the chances of getting any help from me deciphering what exactly is going on there will likely be slim to none. Sorry, I've never done that swap. Wouldn't have a clue how that works. Not to mention my lack of expertise when it comes to these 4 cylinder engines.
Anyways, I'll check the model code when I get home from school.
What would happen if I through a VAFM in there? Because I have 2 extra ones.
Here is the donar 4Runner I've been using by the way (which is a 22R-E)- https://www.dropbox.com/s/39n7zxkssh...%20PM.jpg?dl=0
Thanks for all of your help
it was getting really frustrating doing it on my own
04-06-2016, 11:47 AM
#31
I don't know what would happen for sure. But probably nothing. It shouldn't do anything as far as the fuel pump, unless you opened/pushed on the measuring plate. Then it might turn it on. I mean it should. But maybe he had it bypassed somehow. It would be interesting to find out how, or if, he did or didn't. I have no ideas on how at the moment. I'll let you know if I think of something.
Last edited by MudHippy; 04-06-2016 at 11:49 AM.
04-06-2016, 12:21 PM
#32
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I don't know what would happen for sure. But probably nothing. It shouldn't do anything as far as the fuel pump, unless you opened/pushed on the measuring plate. Then it might turn it on. I mean it should. But maybe he had it bypassed somehow. It would be interesting to find out how, or if, he did or didn't. I have no ideas on how at the moment. I'll let you know if I think of something.
04-10-2016, 11:37 AM
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Well I still can't figure out what's wrong, so I've been focused on trying to fix another problem.
It seems to idle great, but as soon as I start to apply some gas it feels like it's going to die (and most of the time it does). When it's driving it often feels like the gas is cutting out for a split second or something. It jumps forward really hard until it dies.
I thought it might be the fuel filter but I can't seem to find it... Looked everywhere under the truck and nothing. Couldnt see anything under the hood either (unless I'm blind)
So I thought it might be the throttle position sensor, but I can't find that either xD
It should be on this shouldnt it? https://www.dropbox.com/s/u2qzym78ft...%20PM.jpg?dl=0
I tried to jump T and E1 to get the check engine light to come on (like this guy said to-
) but that didn't do anything.
These are the only lights that come on- https://www.dropbox.com/s/rr8ru19ou0...%20PM.jpg?dl=0
Any suggestions?
It seems to idle great, but as soon as I start to apply some gas it feels like it's going to die (and most of the time it does). When it's driving it often feels like the gas is cutting out for a split second or something. It jumps forward really hard until it dies.
I thought it might be the fuel filter but I can't seem to find it... Looked everywhere under the truck and nothing. Couldnt see anything under the hood either (unless I'm blind)
So I thought it might be the throttle position sensor, but I can't find that either xD
It should be on this shouldnt it? https://www.dropbox.com/s/u2qzym78ft...%20PM.jpg?dl=0
I tried to jump T and E1 to get the check engine light to come on (like this guy said to-
These are the only lights that come on- https://www.dropbox.com/s/rr8ru19ou0...%20PM.jpg?dl=0
Any suggestions?
04-11-2016, 08:30 AM
#36
So I thought it might be the throttle position sensor, but I can't find that either xD
It should be on this shouldnt it? https://www.dropbox.com/s/u2qzym78ft...%20PM.jpg?dl=0
I tried to jump T and E1 to get the check engine light to come on
It should be on this shouldnt it? https://www.dropbox.com/s/u2qzym78ft...%20PM.jpg?dl=0
I tried to jump T and E1 to get the check engine light to come on
so even tho it's carbed, it appears that they might be trying to use a computer to run the ignition??? so the question should be, do carbed toyota trucks normally have a computer for the ignition, or is this just the worst ghetto hack job i've ever seen on this forum?
maybe pull the air cleaner off of it and post up a good pic of that area, lets see what carb is on it.
the big plastic tube in the bottom right-hand corner of your pic is the cold air air intake for the 22re airbox, where the vafm would sit, i don't know of the v6 model uses the same thing or not?
Last edited by osv; 04-11-2016 at 08:33 AM.
04-11-2016, 09:03 PM
#37
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you posted a pic of a vehicle that has a carb on it, so there is no tps to worry about, carbs don't need a tps, that's fuel injection stuff, there is no check engine light with carbed vehicles, the wire that should have been connected to the tps is probably laying around in there somewhere... look around for it.
so even tho it's carbed, it appears that they might be trying to use a computer to run the ignition??? so the question should be, do carbed toyota trucks normally have a computer for the ignition, or is this just the worst ghetto hack job i've ever seen on this forum?
maybe pull the air cleaner off of it and post up a good pic of that area, lets see what carb is on it.
the big plastic tube in the bottom right-hand corner of your pic is the cold air air intake for the 22re airbox, where the vafm would sit, i don't know of the v6 model uses the same thing or not?
so even tho it's carbed, it appears that they might be trying to use a computer to run the ignition??? so the question should be, do carbed toyota trucks normally have a computer for the ignition, or is this just the worst ghetto hack job i've ever seen on this forum?
maybe pull the air cleaner off of it and post up a good pic of that area, lets see what carb is on it.
the big plastic tube in the bottom right-hand corner of your pic is the cold air air intake for the 22re airbox, where the vafm would sit, i don't know of the v6 model uses the same thing or not?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jkylpsdmxl...%20PM.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/wd57jxwbvp...%20PM.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/q4utmdyykp...%20PM.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/yir974l60v...%20PM.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qa6z0fz6rh...%20PM.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tkcqhpv8vj...%20PM.jpg?dl=0
I'll look for the TPS wire tomorrow after school
04-12-2016, 06:39 PM
#38
i wish that someone who knew carbed toyotas could give some feedback here, especially about the ignition... it looks like the box says 053 on it? if we had the part number off of that ignition, we could google it and see what vehicle it's meant for.
as for the circuit open relay question that started this thread... it looks like an electric fuel pump is plugged directly into a cheapo fuel filter, see those two silver cylinders? the mechanical fuel pump location in front is capped off, like is done with a 22re... there would be no reason to have a circuit open relay, because carbs run on low fuel pressure, efi has high fuel pressure, so basically everyone has been chasing their tails here, lol
it's not clear to me if this motor is a 22re or a 22r? because the oil filler cap looks different that what i have on my 22re.
as for the circuit open relay question that started this thread... it looks like an electric fuel pump is plugged directly into a cheapo fuel filter, see those two silver cylinders? the mechanical fuel pump location in front is capped off, like is done with a 22re... there would be no reason to have a circuit open relay, because carbs run on low fuel pressure, efi has high fuel pressure, so basically everyone has been chasing their tails here, lol
it's not clear to me if this motor is a 22re or a 22r? because the oil filler cap looks different that what i have on my 22re.
Last edited by osv; 04-12-2016 at 06:42 PM.
04-12-2016, 08:38 PM
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i wish that someone who knew carbed toyotas could give some feedback here, especially about the ignition... it looks like the box says 053 on it? if we had the part number off of that ignition, we could google it and see what vehicle it's meant for.
as for the circuit open relay question that started this thread... it looks like an electric fuel pump is plugged directly into a cheapo fuel filter, see those two silver cylinders? the mechanical fuel pump location in front is capped off, like is done with a 22re... there would be no reason to have a circuit open relay, because carbs run on low fuel pressure, efi has high fuel pressure, so basically everyone has been chasing their tails here, lol
it's not clear to me if this motor is a 22re or a 22r? because the oil filler cap looks different that what i have on my 22re.
as for the circuit open relay question that started this thread... it looks like an electric fuel pump is plugged directly into a cheapo fuel filter, see those two silver cylinders? the mechanical fuel pump location in front is capped off, like is done with a 22re... there would be no reason to have a circuit open relay, because carbs run on low fuel pressure, efi has high fuel pressure, so basically everyone has been chasing their tails here, lol
it's not clear to me if this motor is a 22re or a 22r? because the oil filler cap looks different that what i have on my 22re.
I could possibly get the part number off of the ignition. I have the whole dash off so it shouldn't be that difficult.
Could having that other electric fuel pump explain how this originally ran without a fuel pump in the tank?
If a carbed engine runs on low fuel pressure, is it possible its getting too much gas or the pressure is to high so it stalls?
Let me know any part number or pictures you need to help
04-12-2016, 11:36 PM
#40
yes, the longer silver tube is probably a low-pressure suction pump, all it needs is a pickup tube in the tank, no pump in there.
yes, wrong fuel pressure for carbs can be a problem, and carbs themselves can be another source of headaches.
follow the wire back from the distributor, it looks like it's hooked up to the box on the drivers side fender, get all of the numbers off of that and post it up.
since the fuel pump doesn't need the cor, you could also look up the toyota schematic for carbed vehicles, and see how the factory wired it up, then duplicate that on your truck.
this is some real hillbilly engineering, lol, be sure and have a fire extinguisher in the truck at all times.
yes, wrong fuel pressure for carbs can be a problem, and carbs themselves can be another source of headaches.
follow the wire back from the distributor, it looks like it's hooked up to the box on the drivers side fender, get all of the numbers off of that and post it up.
since the fuel pump doesn't need the cor, you could also look up the toyota schematic for carbed vehicles, and see how the factory wired it up, then duplicate that on your truck.
this is some real hillbilly engineering, lol, be sure and have a fire extinguisher in the truck at all times.
Last edited by osv; 04-12-2016 at 11:40 PM.
