4x4YOTA

iTrader: (2)

ok cuz after I did my BJ spacer I tried to flex it but didnt see a difference from before I did it just the added height so what am I doin wrong and Im affraid to loosen my T-bars back to stock that I might break the bolts

AxleIke

I guess you'd need to clarify what you mean by flex it? Did you find a rut somewhere where you could cross the suspension up? Or, you can do it by putting a jack stand under the driver side rear frame, and jacking under the passenger side front a arm to get up travel, and then just jacking up the front of the truck from the front xmember to get droop. Your fender to rim distance should have increased.

Essentially, unless you did something to your upper bumpstops, your front tires will now droop down farther than before. You'll have the same uptravel. This isn't very noticeable. Look at an inch and a half on a ruler, and you'll see what I mean. IFS doesn't really flex stock. You gotta spend lots of cash to get flex.

On the other hand, a low SAS isn't going to flex a ton either. At least not as low as you are talking about. It will flex better than IFS though.

As for your T-bar bolts, thats up to you. I figured mine would break, so I went down to Toyota and spent 15 bucks and bought 2 new ones. Neither one did, so I returned them.

stormin94

Not to get off topic, but how's your 3.4 swap going?

Tacoclimber

Pssst....My remark was a bit tongue in cheek. I'm actually a fan of wheeling IFS, although I've been told you can't actually do that.

Pay attention to Isaac and TC. SAS has it's place and SFA certainly shines on the hardcore stuff, but IFS isn't as lousy as everyone seems to think. These guys have proven it.

Yodaforce

Just buy an old SA truck for the front suspension, do the swap, level out the rear. That should put you as low as it can be without more modification. Yes, you might have to alter or swap your oil pan. Big deal.

4x4YOTA

iTrader: (2)

my hats off to you ISSAC &TC I went out today and tinkered with my truck loosened my T-bars so I sit 15" fender to rim and I messed around with my jack and some ramps even went a flexed it some and I was impressed so I apologize to you guys th results I got just from minor adjustments improved it tons I think I measured about a total of 20" of travel (front&rear together) and still had mor to go in the rear

linuxrunner

This is a good thread for those new to this site, it shows that you don't have to have a SFA to have fun.

4x4YOTA

iTrader: (2)

sure does

4x4YOTA

iTrader: (2)

ok so now that thats out of the way what about a good DD locker the is dependable but I can still daily drive my truck street and highway

tc

Did you take off the front swaybar? Makes a big difference in the way the suspension works, and only affects it slightly on the road (so long as the rear one is still connected - without both is a little sketchy)

As for a locker .... welllll - you live in Colorado, and therefore need to be able to drive on snowy roads. Because of that, i say selectable (ARB or elocker) is the only way to go. Especially if others may drive your truck in those conditions - they probably won't believe you about staying off the throttle in turns until they put it in the ditch!

4x4YOTA

iTrader: (2)

no I still have my sway bar on it didnt cross my mind to remove it thanks and I only have 1 sway bar up front so Im not sure what you mean both do you mean 1 side of he sway bar or or are you talking about 2 seperate sway bars

4x4YOTA

iTrader: (2)

and if those are the only lockers that are good for a DD Ill hold off for a while

AxleIke

Going from the sig, I'd say he did remove the sway bar. EDIT: Too slow on the posting. So, yeah, take off the swaybar, that'll help a BUNCH.

x2 on ARB's. They are 100% worth it.

If you are on a budget, its a tough call. FWIW, I am on a budget too. I just saved my pennies and got 2.

linuxrunner

They might not be the only good ones, but they are the best for DD.

Also like tc mentioned selectable lockers allow you to let others drive your truck no problem.

And your tires will thank you.

AxleIke

You can get a rear elocker for 400 bucks or less if you don't regear. Regear add 400 dollars to it.

So, if you stay 4.10, (assuming you are) you just need to troll ebay and junkyards.

tc

By both I meant the front and rear swaybars. I wouldn't recommend running with NO swaybars - that's how my truck currently is, and when there's weight in the back, it doesn't have great control. Molly's is downright scary with no swaybars ... I really liked how the truck performed with a rear swaybar, but no front.

4x4YOTA

iTrader: (2)

my truck only has one sway bar it doesnt even have a place for a rear sway bar ...


I ran my truck with no sway bar for a while and it wasnt bad unless I was being dumb a driving wrecklesly then it was a bit tippy and scray so I bought longer links and put it back on

4x4YOTA

iTrader: (2)

my truck has 4.56 s in it stock

4x4YOTA

iTrader: (2)

what about installing the locker myself is it hard to do or should I just have someone else do it

bigarms23

if you want lower that the 3inch kit you can use jeep 2inch springs and run revolver shackels front and rear