KC lights wiring question
12-09-2010, 09:43 PM
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KC lights wiring question
hey yall- so i got the DIY kit from KC lights because i had two that needed wiring. (obviously). http://www.kchilites.com/accessories...-diy-2-lights/ anyways, i wired em all up, got the switch in, and.......nothing. weird as it sounds, this didnt suprise me. nothing ever works on the first try haha. anyways, i have a little power checker deal, so i used it to check power to the switch. good. then i checked the power to the lights. good. however, the lights didnt come on. the lights were good, checked em on the battery. im pretty sure the ground is good too, because i grounded my welder to the light mounts, where the lights are currently grounded. im no wiring expert so any help would be awesome. thanks yall! 
12-09-2010, 10:05 PM
#2
Try running a jumper wire from the battery negative to the black wire coming from the lights.
I am betting you have a bad ground.
If these lights sat around or were on the truck not hooked up it is possible that connections corroded.
Maybe a bad connection where the positive wire is connected to the lights.
Try your ground connection if need be ground direct to the battery or make a new ground new hole new bolt copper never seize
I am betting you have a bad ground.
If these lights sat around or were on the truck not hooked up it is possible that connections corroded.
Maybe a bad connection where the positive wire is connected to the lights.
Try your ground connection if need be ground direct to the battery or make a new ground new hole new bolt copper never seize
12-09-2010, 10:09 PM
#3
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Prolly a bad ground.
Do you have the switch grounded?
If you only have two lights all you need to run is a 30Amp fuse and a toggle switch rated for 30+ amps.. then some 8 gauge wire..
Do you have the switch grounded?
If you only have two lights all you need to run is a 30Amp fuse and a toggle switch rated for 30+ amps.. then some 8 gauge wire..
12-09-2010, 10:10 PM
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yea i was thinking bad ground as well. didnt have time to check the ground directly to the battery. by connections you mean inside the light? because i did test them on the battery and they fired right up. im 98% sure the positive to the lights is good. thanks for the reply!
12-09-2010, 10:11 PM
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12-09-2010, 11:12 PM
#8
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Well thats not the problem.
Check the relays..
Check the relay grounds..
Check the connections from the KC's to the relays..
If all else fails, go to Napa and buy 20 feet of 8 gauge wire..
connect the positive one to both positive wires on the lights (in tandem) and the same for the ground... run the ground straight to the negative battery post, the positive to the switch, then to a 30Amp inline fuse, then to the positive terminal on the battery post..
if that doesn't work, then the lights are likely at fault.
And yes, the setup mentioned above is completely fine.. the switch provided with the KC lights is rated at over 30 amps, and will not melt, burst into flames, etc etc.
i've run my truck with the lights on with this exact same setup with no excessive wire heat, or melting.
if you want, i can make a diagram for ya.
Check the relays..
Check the relay grounds..
Check the connections from the KC's to the relays..
If all else fails, go to Napa and buy 20 feet of 8 gauge wire..
connect the positive one to both positive wires on the lights (in tandem) and the same for the ground... run the ground straight to the negative battery post, the positive to the switch, then to a 30Amp inline fuse, then to the positive terminal on the battery post..
if that doesn't work, then the lights are likely at fault.
And yes, the setup mentioned above is completely fine.. the switch provided with the KC lights is rated at over 30 amps, and will not melt, burst into flames, etc etc.
i've run my truck with the lights on with this exact same setup with no excessive wire heat, or melting.
if you want, i can make a diagram for ya.
12-09-2010, 11:20 PM
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yea the kit didnt come with relays so those arent in there. the lights work, tested em directly on the battery. ill try the grounds again tomorrow, if that doesnt work ill have to give the setup you mentioned a try.
12-09-2010, 11:27 PM
#10
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The setup you bought is EXACTLY what i just described, lol.
I would definitely inspect your grounds.
I always had issues with my grounds getting corroded and eventually moved the ground into the cab (when they were on my lightbar) and then onto the battery itself when i put em on the bumper.
Funny, me and bird just got into an argument about this setup.. It appears as though KC is selling the kit i've been using for a long time.
I would definitely inspect your grounds.
I always had issues with my grounds getting corroded and eventually moved the ground into the cab (when they were on my lightbar) and then onto the battery itself when i put em on the bumper.
Funny, me and bird just got into an argument about this setup.. It appears as though KC is selling the kit i've been using for a long time.
12-13-2010, 12:08 AM
#12
Yes it would be interesting to know how you made out??
When I said check your connections I meant all the connections you made.
In the old days I have had crimp on terminals corrode in the box here in damp eastern Pa only to cause things not to work at the worst times.
When I said check your connections I meant all the connections you made.
In the old days I have had crimp on terminals corrode in the box here in damp eastern Pa only to cause things not to work at the worst times.
12-13-2010, 06:02 AM
#14
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yea i went to the hardware store, picked up a 30A relay, added it in, moved the grounds to the frame and they worked. thanks for the help yall
12-13-2010, 01:23 PM
#17
I don`t know what you would need a relay for either.
unless you wanted to save on the weight of the wire to the switch.you could also then use a switch rated to pull in the coil . I wonder if there is a $$$ advantage to doing it either way.
I very seldom ever used relays hooking up lights
unless you wanted to save on the weight of the wire to the switch.you could also then use a switch rated to pull in the coil . I wonder if there is a $$$ advantage to doing it either way.
I very seldom ever used relays hooking up lights
12-13-2010, 01:26 PM
#18
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i used a relay because i didnt want that much power going through the cab and the switch, just taking precautions
Last edited by 87hillbillyoter; 12-13-2010 at 02:52 PM.
12-13-2010, 01:53 PM
#19
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I always use relays for the same reason. Relays are meant to handle the load, most switches aren't and maybe it is just me but the switches that are rated to handle the load are bulky and ugly.
12-13-2010, 02:52 PM
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