Having issues with my 88 pickup
#1
Having issues with my 88 pickup
I have an 88 toyota pickup with a 22re engine. it has been having issues since about november. the engine has been sputing and kind of backfireing and bucking. this happens when i hit about 2000-3000 rpms.at first it would only do it every once in a while. now its gotten a lot worse and does it as soon as i get out of second gear. i have cut out the cat cause i thoguht that was the issue but it was not. i also ran the codes and it was 51 and 52. 52 is the knock sensor i dont really know what 51 is. i have not changed the knock sensor b/c yesterday i tried barely pushing on the gas and it seemed to get higher in rpms, but as soon as i would give it more it would do the same thing. i think it might be fuel related when i bought it the guy had just rebuilt the motor and it only has about 3,000 miles on it now. no mechanics in town have been able to help me out so any suggestions would be awesome.
#2
Could just be dirty gas. Have you checked your fuel filter/pump, etc? I had the same problem a couple months ago in my 22r. I changed out my fuel filter and left whatever gas was in the filter in there. I dumped it out one side and it was crystal clear and then when I dumped it out the other side it was all murky and muddy. From what it sounds like to me, when you put a load on, your engine isn't getting enough gas, which is what was wrong with mine. Keep us updated and good luck.
Last edited by perushing; 08-22-2011 at 01:32 PM.
#3
I was thinking it might be the fuel filter as well b/c it started last winter when i let my tank get really low and then it just has progressed since i plan to change that this weekend tho. thanks for the input
#4
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Start with the basics. How long has it been since your last tune up? If you can't remember when, then I would start there.
Plugs
Wires
Rotor
Cap
Air Filter
Check Timing
Then go from there...
Plugs
Wires
Rotor
Cap
Air Filter
Check Timing
Then go from there...
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#7
Ok not to sound completely ridiculous but how hard is it to do these things ive never really dont work on vehicals. i want to though really badly. i am pretty mechanically inclined too i was a plumber and did my apprenticeship in a year so i learn quickly. also this is my only means of transportation so i want to do the work myself and i think i can i just dont wanna screw it up so bad....
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#12
All the stuff that was listed is pretty easy to do. As far as changing the fuel filter, on my 87 pickup anyways, it takes less than 5 minutes. Mine is mounted just in front of my rear passenger side tire under my frame. You disconnect two hoses and while keeping them plugged up(unless you want gas all over the place), you connect it to the same tubes in the new fuel filter. then you put it back in its clip and then after a little while check it to make sure it doesn't leak.
#13
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If it is fuel injected, the fuel filter will be mounted on the passenger side of the motor. When you get a new filter, make sure you get 4 crush washers. They will go on each end of the banjo fittings. Pay attention to "flow" direction. I have seen them hooked up backwards.
But a good overall tuneup can help solve alot of problems. Check to see all hoses are connected and not dry rotted, cracked, loose.
I would also check to see if any of the ports coming off of the Plenum are clear and not plugged with carbon. Just do an overall check while under there.
But a good overall tuneup can help solve alot of problems. Check to see all hoses are connected and not dry rotted, cracked, loose.
I would also check to see if any of the ports coming off of the Plenum are clear and not plugged with carbon. Just do an overall check while under there.
#15
I have the Haynes repair manual for my 89. It includes pick ups from 79-95 and 4-runners 84-95.
I need to replace my fuel filter and in the manual it says I need to de-pressureize the fuel line. What does that mean?
I changed a fuel filter on my old 87 Chevrolet with a TBI and I did nothing but take the lines off and replace.
I myself assumed the filter could simply be taken off by the 2 banjo bolts and be replaced. Am I wrong or what?
Thanks in advance!
I need to replace my fuel filter and in the manual it says I need to de-pressureize the fuel line. What does that mean?
I changed a fuel filter on my old 87 Chevrolet with a TBI and I did nothing but take the lines off and replace.
I myself assumed the filter could simply be taken off by the 2 banjo bolts and be replaced. Am I wrong or what?
Thanks in advance!
#16
New symptom i think it is also misfireing while it idols so not only does it completly cut out at 3,000 rpms it also is misfireing while idoling..... im not doing anywork on it untill the weekend
#17
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I am not familiar with the FSM, but the 85 should work for an 88. I have a Haynes and it gets me through, but am in the process of getting a FSM.
To depressurize a system, disconnect the electrical line from the fuel pump and it should start for a few seconds and then die. If you dont depressurize it will spew about a 1/4 cup of fuel when you loosen one of the banjo bolts.
You are right about disconnecting the banjo bolts and 2 bolts that attach it to the mount. Some are easier to get to then others. I have three 22res and get to each one of the fuel filters is a little different. There is a little acces plate above the shock mount that you can remove that makes it alot easier.
On your misfire, I check the injectors like I would for a fouled plug. Pull one at a time and that will tell which cylinder is missing. Then check and see if plug is firing. From my experience, when I changed my fuel filter on my 2 WD flatbed. The number 1 injector is most exposed and I bumped it, causing a loose connection on it. Took a while to find. But could be any loose injector connection as these get REALLY brittle. Could be other causes but this is the quickest, and cheapest test.
On it, I can acess the fuel pump from the front and side as I dont have AC on it. No way could I do that on my 4wheels. Like I said each one is different. On my extended cab, I actually have my back against the tire and my arm almost straight back behind me to get to the fuel pump. Some are easier then others, but you can do it.
To depressurize a system, disconnect the electrical line from the fuel pump and it should start for a few seconds and then die. If you dont depressurize it will spew about a 1/4 cup of fuel when you loosen one of the banjo bolts.
You are right about disconnecting the banjo bolts and 2 bolts that attach it to the mount. Some are easier to get to then others. I have three 22res and get to each one of the fuel filters is a little different. There is a little acces plate above the shock mount that you can remove that makes it alot easier.
On your misfire, I check the injectors like I would for a fouled plug. Pull one at a time and that will tell which cylinder is missing. Then check and see if plug is firing. From my experience, when I changed my fuel filter on my 2 WD flatbed. The number 1 injector is most exposed and I bumped it, causing a loose connection on it. Took a while to find. But could be any loose injector connection as these get REALLY brittle. Could be other causes but this is the quickest, and cheapest test.
On it, I can acess the fuel pump from the front and side as I dont have AC on it. No way could I do that on my 4wheels. Like I said each one is different. On my extended cab, I actually have my back against the tire and my arm almost straight back behind me to get to the fuel pump. Some are easier then others, but you can do it.
#18
I broke down and took it to a mechanic i just did not trust searching a taking stuff apart myself it ended up being the plugs and wires distributor and the fuel pressure regulator. thanks for all the help if anything i was able to make sure the mechanic was not BSing me lol thanks all
#20
Ok so i replaced the plugs, wires, and distributor cap. I checked the tps and MAF sensor both are perfect and I also replaced the fuel pressure regulator and it is still idoling rough and misfiring at about 3,000 rpms. The mechanic i talked to said it has to be the fuel injectors but thats gonna run me a bunch of money he said the only way to test them is by replacing them so i am asking if anyone has any helpful input either a better way to test them or if i should replace them or what to do i wish i new more about this stuff so i didnt have to be dumping so much money into it im getting frustrated lol