clutch problem and I cant seem to find the answer
#21
Contributing Member
iTrader: (1)
Okay, this is my understanding of a manual transmission, the clutch is what separates and combines the engine to the rest of the drivetrain, when the clutch is not able to separate the drivetrain you cannot shift because the synchros are unable to slow down the gear to complete the shift without grinding so the block out rings will not allow it to happen smoothly giving you resistance to shifting into gear. The clutch is not actually needed to make a shift if you can match gear speed to engine speed, you can shift with no clutch and no grinding, I have done it with no grinding. So my question is, if the gear speed is matched to the engine speed as in not moving at all, then why would the clutch be a factor in shifting with the engine off?
Last edited by James Woods; 04-06-2011 at 11:05 AM.
#23
Registered User
it did on mine and when it cracked i aqlmost rear ended the guy in front of me it makes it flex when pedal depressed so it wont disengage all of the way, if you search there are tons of threads on it. do this crawl under your dash and try to pul the pedal side to side if it moves at all your bracket is flexing and is getting weak or is broke, been there more than once.
#24
my guess is bad/bent clutch fork or the wrong throwout bearing.. i have a 1988 v6 pickup and they had a few different throwout bearings for my truck i had to run everywhere to find the right one.. those bastards..
#26
Contributing Member
iTrader: (1)
it did on mine and when it cracked i aqlmost rear ended the guy in front of me it makes it flex when pedal depressed so it wont disengage all of the way, if you search there are tons of threads on it. do this crawl under your dash and try to pul the pedal side to side if it moves at all your bracket is flexing and is getting weak or is broke, been there more than once.
#27
Registered User
Nope. Clutch has nothing to do with anything when the truck's off. If I remember correctly, I can shift through all my gears with the truck off, without using the clutch. So I'd also say it's a tranny issue.
#29
Ill try that, thanks. I called the previous owner and he informed me the clutch hasn't been replaced and right after i got off yhr phone my madre called and told me fifth gear went out in her 03 dodge 3/4 ton 4x4 cummings and all it does is grind and race.the rpms. Tranny will be $3,000. I guess all this tranny talk jenksd her.
#30
I checked the tranny fluid in the toyota and it was fine. Its shifting fine now for some reason with the truck off. I turned the truck on and it grinded everytime going in to reverse and wouldn't stick, still having to cram it into gear when the trucks on.
#31
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: James Island, Charleston, SC
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ever find anything out? i grind alot when i am trying to put in 3rd. usually have to press clutch to floor, wait a sec, and then shift. PAIN. and even then sometimes i get a short/minor grind. from what i have read it could be the shift bushing thing, a improperly adjusted slave cylinder, or the clutch pedal needs to be adjusted (which i did a few days ago)
#32
The whole story,
It started when my buddy asked me about his 1990 Toyota 2wd truck being hard to get into gear and he was thinking the clutch was going bad. I advised him to take it to a shop and have the slave cylinder and master checked. Well he did and they told him it needed a clutch. They wanted $1500 to change it so I agreed to do it for beer, I was a diesel tech for a few years and before a career change.
I replaced the clutch and inspected the master and slave. I advised him to go ahead and replace both because it was cheep and we had it apart. The disc that came out was not worn out but we decided to replace it anyway since it had 185000 miles on it. I know the disc is in the right way, the pressure plate looks normal, the throw out is correct and the pilot is good.
I have bled the crap out of the system to no avail and have also used a vacuum pump on it. What I see happening is the slave is not pushing the clutch arm enough to disengage the clutch and the travel is 5/16, not enough. I have used a pry bar on the clutch arm and when I move the arm ¾ to 1 inch the clutch disengages. I have read the post about the bent or cracked petal bracket and I’m going to check that tomorrow.
A few things I was thinking may be wrong. 1st the rubber hose on the slave may be sucking air. 2nd clutch arm bent? But don’t think it is likely.
Does anyone have any ideas????
It started when my buddy asked me about his 1990 Toyota 2wd truck being hard to get into gear and he was thinking the clutch was going bad. I advised him to take it to a shop and have the slave cylinder and master checked. Well he did and they told him it needed a clutch. They wanted $1500 to change it so I agreed to do it for beer, I was a diesel tech for a few years and before a career change.
I replaced the clutch and inspected the master and slave. I advised him to go ahead and replace both because it was cheep and we had it apart. The disc that came out was not worn out but we decided to replace it anyway since it had 185000 miles on it. I know the disc is in the right way, the pressure plate looks normal, the throw out is correct and the pilot is good.
I have bled the crap out of the system to no avail and have also used a vacuum pump on it. What I see happening is the slave is not pushing the clutch arm enough to disengage the clutch and the travel is 5/16, not enough. I have used a pry bar on the clutch arm and when I move the arm ¾ to 1 inch the clutch disengages. I have read the post about the bent or cracked petal bracket and I’m going to check that tomorrow.
A few things I was thinking may be wrong. 1st the rubber hose on the slave may be sucking air. 2nd clutch arm bent? But don’t think it is likely.
Does anyone have any ideas????
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