Yes the Doug Thorley 3.0 headers do exist
05-05-2006, 04:32 AM
#22
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enutter: yes they are ceramic coated
fnrunner :I spoke to them about the ball & socket on the crossover pipe & their responce was that that design would make the headers cost go way up.
(NWOR just the headers are 650.00 & the crossover pipe is 250.00)
As far as I can teel from the pics the DT headers are the same as Downeys' but I got my whole setup for 563.00 shipped in ceramic Downey would have cost more.
The install was a pain in the a$$ gettting the oem manifolds off was 90% of the work. my 4runner has 244,000 miles on it so I figured I would run into some rust problems.
I cut the crossover pipe on the drivers side just behind the manifold cause we could not get the bolts out. it was the smae for the pass side ecept I had to cut the manifold between 3 & 5 to get it out & then reposition the crossover to where I could cut it in the bend.
I found out that my o2 sensor has ben replaced & they just taped the wires together
& the bolts were fubard the guys that were helping me took care off that with a "blue wrench" 
but when Chris un did the o2 wires he didn't pay attn that the wire colors were diff
I guessed as to what went where. & I guessed wrong. I have a check eng light now & am in the process of looking for the oem o2 colors & I have to figure out the colors on the aftermarket o2.
The flange for the o2 is made wrong you are supposed to use a nuts & bolts to install the o2 in the new pipe. Well the flang is way to close to the pipe there is no way you can get a nut inbetween. We had to tap the flange itsself to make it work.
on to the next problem the rear section on the crossover pipe is about an inch too short :pat: we had to just clamp everything as best as we could & I had 2 small leaks. I'm gonna call them today & see what they offer as a fix.
o & just to let you guys know when you bent the oem heat shield for more clearence to get to the studs in the manifold & they tear they get real sharp I have a hole on the inside of one of my fingers from where I was removing the rear stud on the drivers side & I broke it loose all of a sudden & my hand slipped off the ratchet & I found the tip
Edit The pipe is not too short. I was tired & did not look at the instructions well enough.
The Y pipe is about an inch too short to reach my catback. If i were to cut the back section of the y pipe & reinstall my cat everything would be good.
fnrunner :I spoke to them about the ball & socket on the crossover pipe & their responce was that that design would make the headers cost go way up.
(NWOR just the headers are 650.00 & the crossover pipe is 250.00)
As far as I can teel from the pics the DT headers are the same as Downeys' but I got my whole setup for 563.00 shipped in ceramic Downey would have cost more.
The install was a pain in the a$$ gettting the oem manifolds off was 90% of the work. my 4runner has 244,000 miles on it so I figured I would run into some rust problems.
I cut the crossover pipe on the drivers side just behind the manifold cause we could not get the bolts out. it was the smae for the pass side ecept I had to cut the manifold between 3 & 5 to get it out & then reposition the crossover to where I could cut it in the bend.
I found out that my o2 sensor has ben replaced & they just taped the wires together
& the bolts were fubard the guys that were helping me took care off that with a "blue wrench" but when Chris un did the o2 wires he didn't pay attn that the wire colors were diff
I guessed as to what went where. & I guessed wrong. I have a check eng light now & am in the process of looking for the oem o2 colors & I have to figure out the colors on the aftermarket o2. The flange for the o2 is made wrong you are supposed to use a nuts & bolts to install the o2 in the new pipe. Well the flang is way to close to the pipe there is no way you can get a nut inbetween. We had to tap the flange itsself to make it work.
on to the next problem the rear section on the crossover pipe is about an inch too short :pat: we had to just clamp everything as best as we could & I had 2 small leaks. I'm gonna call them today & see what they offer as a fix.
o & just to let you guys know when you bent the oem heat shield for more clearence to get to the studs in the manifold & they tear they get real sharp I have a hole on the inside of one of my fingers from where I was removing the rear stud on the drivers side & I broke it loose all of a sudden & my hand slipped off the ratchet & I found the tip
Edit The pipe is not too short. I was tired & did not look at the instructions well enough.
The Y pipe is about an inch too short to reach my catback. If i were to cut the back section of the y pipe & reinstall my cat everything would be good.
Last edited by NC-B17A; 05-05-2006 at 08:17 AM.
05-05-2006, 05:32 AM
#23
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Sounds like they have a few bugs to work out yet, but what would a header install be without blood, sweat and tears.
Watch out with that cut finger, you don't want to catch manifoldgasketious.
Watch out with that cut finger, you don't want to catch manifoldgasketious.
Last edited by mt_goat; 05-05-2006 at 05:35 AM.
05-05-2006, 05:33 AM
#24
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Originally Posted by enutter
This sounds like a pain in the ass. Is it?
and in a word
HELL YES it is!
the auto tranny is much larger than the manual and there are cooler lines EVERYwere in you way.
Ive pulled all my cooler lines off, pulled off the bracket that hold ths "sheild?" thinige that covers the front carden joint as it looks like ill need that room also to run the exahust out behind the trans instead of under like the downey design.
so now all i have to do is get the Y pipe fabbed up (tacked together) and then figure out how im going to rerout the cooler lines, then get some ends made up for the hoses.
but it should be worth it!
btw how tight were there headers on the pass side firewall. Mine were tight just like others have said. I used 2 layers of heat tape stuff on the bottom of the foot well. The headers are touching it. a small body lift would defently help.
05-05-2006, 05:40 AM
#25
Contributing Member
Originally Posted by snap-on
im in the process of installing them on my 4runner.
and in a word
HELL YES it is!
the auto tranny is much larger than the manual and there are cooler lines EVERYwere in you way.
Ive pulled all my cooler lines off, pulled off the bracket that hold ths "sheild?" thinige that covers the front carden joint as it looks like ill need that room also to run the exahust out behind the trans instead of under like the downey design.
so now all i have to do is get the Y pipe fabbed up (tacked together) and then figure out how im going to rerout the cooler lines, then get some ends made up for the hoses.
but it should be worth it!
btw how tight were there headers on the pass side firewall. Mine were tight just like others have said. I used 2 layers of heat tape stuff on the bottom of the foot well. The headers are touching it. a small body lift would defently help.
and in a word
HELL YES it is!
the auto tranny is much larger than the manual and there are cooler lines EVERYwere in you way.
Ive pulled all my cooler lines off, pulled off the bracket that hold ths "sheild?" thinige that covers the front carden joint as it looks like ill need that room also to run the exahust out behind the trans instead of under like the downey design.
so now all i have to do is get the Y pipe fabbed up (tacked together) and then figure out how im going to rerout the cooler lines, then get some ends made up for the hoses.
but it should be worth it!
btw how tight were there headers on the pass side firewall. Mine were tight just like others have said. I used 2 layers of heat tape stuff on the bottom of the foot well. The headers are touching it. a small body lift would defently help.
05-05-2006, 05:48 AM
#26
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ya the instructions say bend the breaklines out of the way which really, i havent got around to doing.
as for the starter, its not that much worse (actuall a little better) than my NWOR ones on my PU and my starter has never had a problem. (except with the contacts wereaing out but no heat issues)
as for the starter, its not that much worse (actuall a little better) than my NWOR ones on my PU and my starter has never had a problem. (except with the contacts wereaing out but no heat issues)
05-05-2006, 06:12 AM
#27
Contributing Member
Originally Posted by snap-on
ya the instructions say bend the breaklines out of the way which really, i havent got around to doing.
as for the starter, its not that much worse (actuall a little better) than my NWOR ones on my PU and my starter has never had a problem. (except with the contacts wereaing out but no heat issues)
as for the starter, its not that much worse (actuall a little better) than my NWOR ones on my PU and my starter has never had a problem. (except with the contacts wereaing out but no heat issues)
05-05-2006, 08:14 AM
#28
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Ok let me retract one thing they are not really too short. I did not metion that I have a testpipe & no cat. I reread the instructions & I was supposed to cut the tail of the Y section to keep the cat. My header setup goes from the head to the catback LCE exhaust. So if I would have cut the pipe to length & used my testpipe I would not have had a problem.
Last edited by NC-B17A; 05-05-2006 at 01:13 PM.
05-05-2006, 08:49 AM
#29
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I guess a Downey replumbing kit would work for the transfer case. NC your install sounds like it would have been much easier without the o2 sensor problems. See if you can post the instructions still. I would appreciate that and let us know if the performance gains are noticable.
05-07-2006, 05:42 AM
#31
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Originally Posted by enutter
I guess a Downey replumbing kit would work for the transfer case. NC your install sounds like it would have been much easier without the o2 sensor problems. See if you can post the instructions still. I would appreciate that and let us know if the performance gains are noticable.
05-07-2006, 06:33 AM
#32
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thorley headers sound
the thorley 3.0 headers sound great. I still don't have my new cat or muffler (jardine) on, and they sound deep and powerful. I have been stopped several times asking what I am running in there, one guy said he thought his friend's supercharged chevy had pulled in. I will be glad though when the muffler and cat are back on as it is really loud. huge power gain (I also put a FPIK on at the same time though).
05-14-2006, 08:40 PM
#33
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Heres a link to some installed pics
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/pics-thorley-3-0-headers-installed-85925/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/pics-thorley-3-0-headers-installed-85925/
Last edited by NC-B17A; 05-15-2006 at 12:41 PM.
01-01-2007, 07:34 AM
#38
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I had the dealer install the DT headers when they put in the new 3.0. I have a question though. In the below picture you see fittings, the first is EGR and the second it called what? Well what ever it is, wont line up with its top mounting bracket now and is only supported by the fitting you see and a couple vacum lines. Can I just get the pipe that connects to the fitting fabbed up so it has a bend in it and then will remount on the top?
01-01-2007, 02:27 PM
#39
ive had the d.t. headers on my truck for about a year now and i love em. except i used a high flow cat and dynomax ultraflow muffler with mine. i also got all my stuff threw summit for less than thorley wanted. i gave 500 for the header kit. ceramic coated and all. no problems to date. and i think it sounds friggin great.
01-01-2007, 05:45 PM
#40
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ive had the d.t. headers on my truck for about a year now and i love em. except i used a high flow cat and dynomax ultraflow muffler with mine. i also got all my stuff threw summit for less than thorley wanted. i gave 500 for the header kit. ceramic coated and all. no problems to date. and i think it sounds friggin great.
whoa whoa whoa
I can get those headers from summit for about 500 bones? Got a part number?
