What you need for 22re Intake Mods / Installation
03-26-2009, 09:34 PM
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What you need for 22re Intake Mods / Installation
Well, threads have popped up about switching out the airbox for a cone filter. IMO, i have heard it is better to just do the ISR swap to get a better throttle response. To go all out, do the battery / intake swap, supra AFM swap, and a cone filter, but here only cone filters will be discussed...
I was forced to just put in an aftermarket cone filter, as airboxes are expensive stock from the stealership, and i can't find junkyards with yota's nearby. Anyway, after a couple trips down to the local pepboys, I had all the parts necessary. I needed:
-3" tubing. I used a flex tube that was $20. Metal 3" tubes are around $40, and the K&N kit goes for $110 with everything.
-Air filter. I used a cheap Spectre Air filter, and it was about $20. Not as good of a rep as K&N, but its cheap
. Works fine thus far.
-Mini Air Filter (note this does not stand for MAF ) for the PAIR valve hose if you have one... costs about $5
-Hose Clamps, if you don't have em already. Range in prices, and please get the ones that require the use of a screwdriver.
-AFM to 3" round adapter. From my experience, buy the aluminum one, as it is easier to machine metal. Holes have to be drilled with precision so you don't puncture the round metal tube.
SO... installing everything is EXTREMELY EASY. No joke, its just putting on hoses and clamping em. The hard parts are either machining the AFM adapter, or making mounting brackets for the AFM. I used scrap sheet metal and random steel brackets as well as a drill press to attach the AFM to the radiator and radiator support.
Pictures
full setup
my filter
full shot of hood
Good luck if this is what you plan to do
I was forced to just put in an aftermarket cone filter, as airboxes are expensive stock from the stealership, and i can't find junkyards with yota's nearby. Anyway, after a couple trips down to the local pepboys, I had all the parts necessary. I needed:
-3" tubing. I used a flex tube that was $20. Metal 3" tubes are around $40, and the K&N kit goes for $110 with everything.
-Air filter. I used a cheap Spectre Air filter, and it was about $20. Not as good of a rep as K&N, but its cheap
. Works fine thus far.-Mini Air Filter (note this does not stand for MAF
) for the PAIR valve hose if you have one... costs about $5-Hose Clamps, if you don't have em already. Range in prices, and please get the ones that require the use of a screwdriver.
-AFM to 3" round adapter. From my experience, buy the aluminum one, as it is easier to machine metal. Holes have to be drilled with precision so you don't puncture the round metal tube.
SO... installing everything is EXTREMELY EASY. No joke, its just putting on hoses and clamping em. The hard parts are either machining the AFM adapter, or making mounting brackets for the AFM. I used scrap sheet metal and random steel brackets as well as a drill press to attach the AFM to the radiator and radiator support.
Pictures
full setup
my filter
full shot of hood
Good luck if this is what you plan to do
Last edited by xzyragon; 03-26-2009 at 11:07 PM.
03-26-2009, 09:58 PM
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I know what you're missing:
You should paint the valve cover and intake. It'll look super clean... but the added weight of the paint will probably offset the power gains from the cone filter.
You should paint the valve cover and intake. It'll look super clean... but the added weight of the paint will probably offset the power gains from the cone filter.
03-26-2009, 10:46 PM
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while im at it, i should just take out the bed, doors, hood, fenders, etc to decrease weight so i can afford the painted valve cover
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03-26-2009, 10:50 PM
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What do you mean 'afford' the painted cover? Cost me about 4 bucks for the can of paint and about a half hour to buff the paint off the "TOYOTA" and "EFI" areas of the valve cover and intake.
If you sold your bed, doors, hood and fenders, you'd have enough money to start production on these items and sell them on ebay for a profit.
If you sold your bed, doors, hood and fenders, you'd have enough money to start production on these items and sell them on ebay for a profit.
03-26-2009, 10:52 PM
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What do you mean 'afford' the painted cover? Cost me about 4 bucks for the can of paint and about a half hour to buff the paint off the "TOYOTA" and "EFI" areas of the valve cover and intake.
If you sold your bed, doors, hood and fenders, you'd have enough money to start production on these items and sell them on ebay for a profit.
If you sold your bed, doors, hood and fenders, you'd have enough money to start production on these items and sell them on ebay for a profit.
But i do plan on painting it metallic red over the summer, as well as giving the truck a midnight blue paint job. Might look interesting
03-26-2009, 11:01 PM
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03-27-2009, 12:59 PM
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I just did mine the other day, got everything I needed from ebay for about $60.00. No drillin required. The mounting brackets don't work well though and I think the pip could be about 5" longer for a better fit. But I plan on doing the bat swap soon. I just got the little cone from PepBoys earlier today and I'll get that on soon. So for now this is it.
03-27-2009, 01:22 PM
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I just did mine the other day, got everything I needed from ebay for about $60.00. No drillin required. The mounting brackets don't work well though and I think the pip could be about 5" longer for a better fit. But I plan on doing the bat swap soon. I just got the little cone from PepBoys earlier today and I'll get that on soon. So for now this is it.
Does the hood close with the pipe that high? it looks like the hood should smoosh the pipe down when it closes. Hope you have no problem with the B / I swap
