What happens if your valve clearance is too big?
07-17-2007, 05:52 AM
#21
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.007 and .009?
I believe it's .007 and .011. The tolerances you are suggesting are a bit tight for the exhaust. Maybe you are thinking of someone with an aftermarket cam...like ovrrdrive?
I believe it's .007 and .011. The tolerances you are suggesting are a bit tight for the exhaust. Maybe you are thinking of someone with an aftermarket cam...like ovrrdrive?
07-17-2007, 07:22 AM
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Well shoot.. I'll have to look again. It seems to be doing ok but I may re-do it to .011.
07-17-2007, 05:42 PM
#23
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My fuel economey and power/accellereation are are better then before, it's just the noise... the guy that did it suggested it may be piston slap.....
How could the chain cause such a racket, it's a new chain, and pretty straight forward install...
If it is piston slap, how bad can that be??????? should i even bother???? honestly, it's a 94.....
How could the chain cause such a racket, it's a new chain, and pretty straight forward install...
If it is piston slap, how bad can that be??????? should i even bother???? honestly, it's a 94.....
07-17-2007, 05:44 PM
#24
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Exactly, runs great, as does mine, just noisey.......lol
07-22-2007, 07:40 AM
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Well, from what I'm reading here you set the valves at .008 and .012 hot, right? If so then that is why it is loud because that should be what they are set at cold. I just did the timing chain on my pickup and adjusted the valves like that and they were still loud. I read a lot of posts from other people and many have had success setting them at .007 and .009 cold. I readjusted mine Saturday and it took care of almost all of the noise and runs a lot better. You may want to readjust yours because if you're using those tolerances hot then that is wayyy too much clearance.
Also, it's hard to tell from the vid but there may be some chain noise in there too. Was the chain good and tight when you put it back together? If someone decked the head at some point that can cause slack in the chain which will give you noise. I'd worry about the valves first since they are easier to do (obviously).
Oh, and 5w30 is thinner when cold than 10w30 (the first number is cold viscosity, second is hot). You can try 10w40 as it's slightly thicker when hot (I've used 20w50 in really hot summers before too).
Also, it's hard to tell from the vid but there may be some chain noise in there too. Was the chain good and tight when you put it back together? If someone decked the head at some point that can cause slack in the chain which will give you noise. I'd worry about the valves first since they are easier to do (obviously).
Oh, and 5w30 is thinner when cold than 10w30 (the first number is cold viscosity, second is hot). You can try 10w40 as it's slightly thicker when hot (I've used 20w50 in really hot summers before too).
In my manual though, and on my hood sticker, it says to set them hot, at .008 and .012....
Did you truck sound like mine after it was done?????
07-22-2007, 05:30 PM
#27
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sounds like it was an easy fix. Just thought you might have though of this before all this trouble you went through.
O. how about a vid of what it sounds like now.
O. how about a vid of what it sounds like now.
07-24-2007, 10:04 AM
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07-24-2007, 11:24 AM
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Results !!!!
An overlooked easy fix to my nasty noises.....
Here is the video with the cover loosened off then just snugged up....
There is no torque spec that i know of for the valve cover nuts..., but obviously there's some bad results if you over tighten them, To fix my issue i backed them all off, with engine off... then figer tight, then about 1.5 turns on each one, evenly.
You can still barely hear the sound, and the cover is tight and not leaking, it's just not super tight. I'm going to change the 3 week old over tightend cover gasket and see if the sound of the rockers goes away completly.
Any help on the best way to properly seal up a valve cover would be helpfull...... ahhahahahhahahhahahahha
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ghqVt...elated&search=
Last edited by skinnadoor; 07-24-2007 at 12:52 PM.
07-24-2007, 11:48 AM
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Edit: My bad, wrong engine. See thook's post below.
Last edited by runethechamp; 07-24-2007 at 12:20 PM.
07-24-2007, 11:59 AM
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I don't have the shop manual, can you take a pic or post what it say's????
Can help alot of people out that have this sound in there engine, and trust me there are lots i've talked too, we could do some good
Would help out alot.
Last edited by skinnadoor; 07-24-2007 at 12:01 PM.
07-24-2007, 12:04 PM
#33
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What section did you find that info in? Under cylinder head, it uses 52in-lbs and makes no indication of a tightening order.
07-24-2007, 12:06 PM
#34
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FSM online
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...fsm/index.html
It's also posted at the top of the forum page....stickied, rather.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...umbers-102344/
Last edited by thook; 07-24-2007 at 12:08 PM.
07-24-2007, 12:19 PM
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07-24-2007, 12:33 PM
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Ok i found the torque, for the cover, in the 95 SR5 Service manual. it's 43 inch pounds, COLD i'm assuming. but there's not sequence in the manual. Just evenly i suppose.
Another thing i thought of was, those 2 have circular plugs on the front and back of the head where the valve cover meets, if one of those is bunked up with old sealent, it could make the cover un-even.
Here is my plan of attack to completely eliminate the sound.......
Get a new valve cover gasket, new half moon plugs, and put this cover on completely even, and torqued propperly......
Dispite backing off the way over torqued valve cover, I feel this meathod of doing it right, will bring me back to last month, when the engine was still stock, and had Zero sound at all.......
Like i was saying people i chatted with have the same sound after work is done and they don't know why..... I realy hope my weeks of whining and sooking can help.... lol
07-24-2007, 11:03 PM
#38
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Unless you actually really distorted the new rubber of the gaskets, grommets, and end plugs why not torque it down and then see if it's going to leak. Maybe I'm just cheap, but I'd give it go and save a few bucks. It's not like it's critical like a headgasket or something. You did use a new gasket kit, didn't you?
07-25-2007, 02:17 AM
#39
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Because its a PITA to chase oil leaks, I install fresh gasket, half moons, and bolt grommets when doing valves. I apply a small amt of RTV to the corners of the half moons, and tighten the bolts evenly until I can see the rubber grommet just start to squish, when its diameter begins to expand, using a cris-cross pattern. It also helps to use a 1/4" drive or a stubby 3/8" drive so you have a better feel for the torque.
(forgive the redundancy) If you have a stock cam, set intake to .008 exh to .012 HOT, as the FSM says. Aftermarket performance cams usually have different requirements.
(forgive the redundancy) If you have a stock cam, set intake to .008 exh to .012 HOT, as the FSM says. Aftermarket performance cams usually have different requirements.
07-25-2007, 02:47 AM
#40
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I always just scrape the old rtv off the half moons, hit the entire mating surface with brake cleaner and a wipe, apply fresh rtv from 1/2" of one side of the half moon to 1/2" past the other , put on the valve cover and snug all 4 nuts then tighten in a crisscross by feel until they're just snug, profit...
I have been known to put rtv under the half moon too... I hate leaks.
And I'm still amazed that was the problem. What did you put them at the first time, 100 ft lbs?
I have been known to put rtv under the half moon too... I hate leaks.
And I'm still amazed that was the problem. What did you put them at the first time, 100 ft lbs?
