JonnyBoy

Ever driven a 4wd with open diffs with bad alignment?
When I did, it was over some patchy snow and occasionally both front tires had traction. Whichever side you leave locked will be trying to pull the vehicle forward and will try to swing on the steering arc towards the other side, making the other wheel follow. It's controllable, but I wouldn't put up with it if it were my rig.

Lysmachia

You can find the FSM for your vehicle here: http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

just call me smithy

to by pass the vacuum i removed the actuator on the diff and slid the sleeve gear over so that it was in 4x4 and then welded that in place so it could not disengage, i then made a plate out of 1/4 steel plate to bolt on where the vacuum actuator went. a little rtv did the trick to seal it up good, as for the left over vacuum lined pull all of that junk out.

scuba

A lot of these people who are telling you not to lock the front end... have never had a locked front end.
I don't mind my lockright in my front diff at all.

UKMyers

I have a detroit in the front and ended up going with Hydro because I couldn't steer it. I'll never never ever put a non selectable in the front again. Turning and IFS rig with the front locked up solid is a ticking CV bomb. Getting in and out of your rig turning one hub in and out get's old real fast too. I blew up my powersteering pump 6 miles from the end of the rubicon one time and had to play that game. I needed the front locked to get up Cadillac hill which is full of sharp turns. Every 40 or 50 ft I'd have to get out and unlock a hub and man handle it around the corner with no powersteering a partially locked front end and 37's at 7 psi...it got old real quick.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

i am speaking from experience. Aussies f/r
I lost my rear driveshaft once. Had to drive home using front wheel drive...it was not an enjoyable experience.

toyNG

another option is to get a twin stick in your t-case. This will allow you to run in 2-LO. That's what I did. Most of them time on the trail is spent in 2-LO. I switch to 4-LO when only as needed, thereby significantly reducing the stress on my CVs and steering components.

blueyoda

Well,
I Just got off the phone with my local dealer and he told my that there is a switch in the transfercase housing the tell the add vacuum to engage. I will rewire this switch to the dash and see if I can make this happen. As for dual sticks, it's a lot of time and money to avoid getting out and unlocking the hubs. I use 2L all the time, just leave the hubs unlocked and VOALA 2L.

scuba

So you have add and manual hubs?

blueyoda

Yes, warn hubs were installed after I got the truck. That's what gives me so many options. I like the idea of dual sticks, but dual t-cases not twin sticks. Not to insult you but I know a guy that has a HEEP with the same mod, spent a lot of cash and I kind of laughed and said "wow that's a lot of BS to go through, I won't spend anywhere near the time getting out and locking my hubs"

toyNG

install time took about five minutes, but that's because I already had the t-case dropped for the 4.7 gear install. I've heard that you can do it without dropping the t-case, as long as you have a good magnet. I've never tried that, so I'm not sure. Cost is around $150. For me, the cost is well worth not having to constantly jump out of my truck. But to each his own I guess.

awsumfn

I'm with UKMeyrs. I would NEVER think of putting a spool or weld the spider gears up front! I'm locked with a Detroit in the rear and a Loc-Rite up front. I do have a twin stick so most of the day I'm running in 2wd. It steers a whole bunch easier! I only engage the front when I loose traction or know I need the front drive wheels. I regularly run the harder trails in California (Rubicon, Fordyce and Dusy Trails) each year in this manner.

blueyoda

Thanks for all the input. I still think I am going to try the ADD mod and run a welded front. I have a few 4.56 spares so worst case I just put an open one in or get a lunch box for the front. I think my final setup will be similar to a dual stick, I will leave the drivers side hub locked and passenger side unlocked. It will run in 2L until I engage the ADD, then it will be 3x4. If need be I will lock the passenger side hub for full lock. I can also lock the passenger side and disengage the ADD for the oposite wheel to get power. This setup will give me exact control of where I put power in the front. Now for the work.

courtgordon

this is an old thread but ide like to know how the welded front is working for you blueyoda? I have been tossing around the idea of welding my front diff. for a while now since i rarely drive locked in the snow (can usually always run 2w) but it seems like it would do great for extra traction in mud when 2w wont cut it

n16ht5

don't do it. I've had welded front and lockered front... locker all the way. pain in the butt unlocking and locking hubs just to turn.

courtgordon

Really it was way worse than a locker? even when you were hammerin down cuz then a locker would turn just as poorly i would think cuz itd be locked? everyone complains madly about the turning is it really that bad when mudding to just strong arm the steering? I usually only use 4wd when im stuck just to get me goin again. But real life experience you say not worth it huh?

Punchy

Had a spooled front for along time (because the price at the time for lockers was outrageous ), Used it in snow, Mud and rock crawling, Unless your intentions are to only go straight you will be seriously man handling the steering and a lot of binding.
Its bad in snow on the pavement, The inside wheel on the slightest turn fights to go straight causing allot of under steer.
Leave it open or prefered a locker, A locker will alleviate the bind and allow better turning.

rattlewagon

Welded front is best for a dedicated trail rig. Sure it sucks for pavement or snow, but you when you need reliable traction to the ground, it cant be beat.

courtgordon

Thats kinda what i thought, the only time im in 4wheel anyway is on the trails when i cant make it any farther in 2w i dont just drive down the road in 4wheel so im thinkin welded front is coming soon

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

Limited slip up front is a nice compromise. I've been real happy with that approach in my truck.