toyogus

I have a 22re with 230k on it. never havd a new timing chain installed. Am I skating on thin ice or is this a common thing?

JACKIE24

I have a 22re and just had to get new timing chain. 149,000 miles, 2 wks later I need a new head gasket.
I have heard as long as you can't hear the chain flapping then you are fine. Mine was loud.

Badger62811

From the stories I've heard... the tc on the 22re is notorious for lasting 120,000... Mine broke at... 120,700.... Coincidence? Maybe. HG started failing about 7,000 miles later..

abecedarian

@Toyogus: What "YEAR" 22re?

toyogus

94 4x4

angrybob

I would do it if it were me. Mine had the original timing chain with 187k miles when I bought it. I did the timing chain as a measure of maintenance and reading about the OE TC guards. I will bet a testicle that 2/3 of the chain guard plastic is in your oil pan as mine were. Because of this, my TC cover had about 1/8" groove worn in it too.

An easy way to check is to remove the valve cover and shine a flashlight down the timing chain. You *should* be able to see the guards...or in your case probably not. This is the reason to change up the timing chain even if its not broken or making noise.

I used the 4crawler.com procedure and it was straight forward...do the head gasket while you're in there.

My $0.02.

Duckie

I did mine at 165k, after the guide was gone and it skipped a tooth. I didn't do my hg, but I probably should have.

rustypigeon

I would definately take the valve cover off and look at it. My chain guides just started to crack at 130,000. I would be very surpized if yours were not broken.

thedrewski86

Are all 230k yours? (So you're sure the tc has never been replaced?) I would say that is thin ice. I would also say you must take great care of your truck! I just did the timing chain and head gasket on my 94 22RE 4x4 and it cost around $800 including a new head, water pump, oil pump, tc cover, steel guides, etc.....

KRos_+

Like they said if the TC has 230k on it change it for sure.

My TC cover is leaking oil along with my drain pan. Im gonna see what the dealer will charge to do: new chain, gears, guides, seals, head gasket and oil pan gasket. Id just feel better if they did it. Im sure my truck needs it. Hopefully they dont rip me off too bad!!

angrybob

Bring vaseline.

dfarr67

See what Toyota says for the service interval- I think it's 80k, this is an interference engine. Buy a good kit $150 and you'r good for another 100k
I'm biting the bullet and ordered the LCE double roller kit, probably overkill- but pre 1983 how many problems were associated with oe double rollers....do your head gasket as well- buy oe or altrom or a good jap gasket.

cman1

iTrader: (1)

go to engnbldr.com and get a full timing chain head gasket set,you wont be dissapointed!

thedrewski86

After doing just this (with good success!) I have read that it is better to get a Toyota head gasket instead of the one from engnbldr. Is this true?

CajunKenny

My TC was changed at 165k miles because the plastic guides broke. Previous owner... Now at 172k the HG blew on cylinders 2 & 3. A complete rebuild is underway.

The headgasket that engblder.com provides is for the 22RTE. Just so you're aware...
I have both the Headgasket from engnblder.com and a Toyota OEM Headgasket. Nothing at all against engnblder.com (GREAT guy and company!!!); but, after comparing the two, the Toyota HG wins out hands down.

To back up my claim, I am an ex-mechanic and am a Supra Freak! I've built many engines. A couple of which have been the 22RE. I have run multiple HG's on them and trust me....go with the Toyota HG.

thedrewski86

So is my gasket something I should seriously worry about? I have checked the torque on my head bolts and will continue to do so every time I have the valve cover off.

CajunKenny

Drew: Considering it was done properly, no. My comment was mainly directed to the OP or anyone else considering a HG change. But, for you, go with OEM next time.

One thing to keep in mind about head bolts is that after five or so complete heat cycles, a re-torque is almost required. This is a commonly missed step that can have disastrous results. Especially in a forced induction application. One re-torque is all that's necessary after the heat cycles. They should hold properly at that point. However, if your bolts aren't new and/or the head bolt threads in the block weren't properly cleaned, then all bets are off.

Re-torquing multiple times is not recommended; but, that's another discussion... Re-torque once after five or so heat cycles and she should hold.

thedrewski86

Well, I certainly hope I did it properly! I did re-torque them about a week after the rebuild so I hope I'm good. I plan on checking them next time I fine tune my valves. Wish I had gone oem when I did this a couple months ago though.

As far as properly cleaning the threads in the block, should I have run a tap through there to really clean them out? I used blaster and a small wire brush style thread cleaner and my new head bolts seemed to go in nicely and uniformly.

CajunKenny

I only use a tap as a last resort.

What I do is take an old headbolt and cut grooves or 'flutes' in to it. Then debur it by running it through a block of aluminum followed by a block of steel. The steel isn't totally necessary, I'm just a little anal.

This insures that I won't be removing any material from the existing threads. Using a tap, there is the potential to remove material and it's just not worth the risk.

After the headbolt is fully deburred, I fill each hole with PB Blaster and then screw in the modified headbolt. What happens is the bolt will free up debris in the threads as it's screwed in and the PB Blaster has to go somewhere so it travels up the flutes taking the debris with it. Repeat 3-5 times and your threads will look like they were just drilled. It works gooduh!

Don't tell anyone though. That's one of my trade secrets.

All that said, it sounds like you did a fair job at it. A lot of folks don't even give them a second look before threading in new ones.

masmith73

I managed to get over 180K before I had to do it. For a while I only heard the chain when starting up before oil pressure was up to par, but when the clatter started when I decelerated it was time. Decided to do it myself when my mechanic quoted over $1200 for the job (13 hrs. labor). That's more than my truck is worth! I have a '93 22re 2wd, so I took the easy way out and dropped the pan instead of pulling the head. 15K miles and year and a half later and no other problems (at least with the chain or HG).