InternetRoadkill

Good old fashioned masking tape and a razor blade.

thook

And no bleeding, then? And I assume you'll paint the decals back in?

n4ynu1010

New Decals........New Decals !

InternetRoadkill

I would get new decals if they weren't so damn expensive. Also, the old ones are thoroughly fused to the paint. They ain't coming off without a fight and I'm in no mood to strip the old paint just to get the decals off.

There is no bleeding under the tape. You just need to make sure the tape is stuck down good.

n4ynu1010

InternetRoadkill

Woot! The left side now has its 1st coat complete. The second picture is of the stripe decals. They came out nice even though they are showing some battle damage.

It took about 4 days to do the left side. The reason is that the truck was disassembled so that the door jams and inside of the doors could be painted. The front fender was also taken off and undercoated. I guess it's no surprise that more dings in the panels showed up once the glossy paint went on. Oh well. It's a truck.

n4ynu1010

That looks nice man considering .......Nice Nice Color too , I like those dayglow colors hehehe

Trustyrusty

Anyone know if I can find some flat black paint that I could ROLL onto my van, I'm gonna kyrlon spray bomb my '86 'Yota, But I wanna paint my van like hot rod style, flat black, with red rims and chrome center caps.. I can't seem to find any paint.. Any suggestions?

InternetRoadkill

Well, I changed from spraying to rolling to do the top. The top was in bad shape and much of the first coat (which was sprayed) had to be sanded off to get a decent surface once again.

Now it was time for the second coat. It was too windy to spray, so I decided to roll and tip it. It came out surprisingly good. The Brightside paint rolls nicely if you thin it. But I did notice that it doesn't cover quite as well. In the end, the surface finish wasn't much different from the sprayed finish. The only real difference is that rolling and tipping leaves fine brush marks while spraying leaves minor orange peel. Personally, I think the orange peel is more desirable since it resembles the factory finish. But the top still needs one more coat so I think I'll spray the final coat. If you intend to sand the final coat, then you can go either way since the sanding effort looks to be the same.

InternetRoadkill

Another day and more paint goes on. All that's left is the hood now and the first coat is complete across the vehicle.

It's really looking nice. But I'm not sure that the Brightside paint was a good choice. I've noticed that it damages very easily. I ran my fingernail across an area that was painted a week ago. It scratches a little to easily for my taste. I'm wondering if using a two-part urethane wouldn't have been a better choice since the one-part Brightside doesn't seem to harden well.

I've also noticed that the Brightside paint is fussy about primers. As a test, I placed some masking tape across an area that had been primed and sanded with duplicolor's red sandable primer. The tape was able to lift the paint from the primer here and there. Not a good sign. The self-etching primers seem to work much better with it.

Right now, I'm debating whether to go ahead with a second coat given the adhesion problems. I'm seriously tempted to leave it until I save up some bucks to have it stripped down to bare metal and start from scratch.

superscreenname

Interlux is awsome paint if you do your prep work correctly. Project is looking good. I woulda done some things differently, but hey. Sounds like you have a plan. Keep it up. I am curious to see how it weathers and holds up on the trail. I am gonna paint my runner with it. The snow white is almost impossible to look at in the direct sunlight. I am gonna spray it though, like I have done in the past. Beware, on your socond coat you will want to go thinner or you will end up with hella runs.

InternetRoadkill

I was very careful with the prep work which is why I'm a bit puzzled by the problems I'm having. I am thinning the paint with mineral spirits (About 15%) which may be why the paint seems to be taking forever to harden.

I'm wondering if thinning it with acetone would have been a better choice since it would bind with the primer better. Then again, it may lift the primer. Painting is fun.

I'm going to do the 3rd coat on the top tomorrow. It needed a lot of sanding on the first two coats. The gel coat had crazed underneath and was showing thru.

superscreenname

When I used interlux I thinned it using t-10 thinner for spraying puroses. You know that they have their own line of thinners for different purposes? They have one specifically for brushing.

InternetRoadkill

Got the windows installed back into the top. The project is slowly moving along. It sure screams ORANGE.

Djlarroc

Dude, your truck looks great! I know we all got the paint for the "roll & tip" method, but I'm going to paint my plow truck in the spring and I'm going to spray it. It just takes too damn long to roll. At least for me. Each coat took me about 4 hours and I was friggin tired. Spraying, including all the taping took me about 1 hr. Also, as you said, rolling doesn't cover quite well. I have patches here and there on my truck. I sprayed the last coat and it looked good, but I did it at night and I noticed the color changed a bit overnight. It even says on the can, not to spray in the evening. I wetsanded, buffed & polished the last coat. I used 1000 grit and it was too much. I knocked off a lot of the sprayed paint and you can kinda see patches again, but now the paint is smooth & I got almost all the runs (which there were lots of). I should've used 1500 grit and sanded real lightly to just smooth the paint. It has great shine now after the buff & polish. I'm going to wax it in like 45 days. You did a good job on your truck. Congrats. And yes, mine came out a bit too orange for me, but I got used to it. I like it now.

brentcole5

i just bought an 87 runner with really faded paint and surface rust so ill be making a thread on mine too im very impressed with what you guys have done......congrats!

brentcole5

oh and where did you get the graphics to put over the new paint cuz i have the same ones on my runner and i like them

InternetRoadkill

Those are the original factory graphics. I masked around them.

Replacement decals are available here: http://www.jamesdeancreations.com/1987-88.htm

InternetRoadkill

I'm curious what grit sandpaper works best with the Interlux. I bought some 1000 grit, but I take it that's too coarse for finish sanding. I'm also curious as to what you used to polish the paint. Just plain old rubbing compound?

Djlarroc

If you have runs, hit that area only with the 1000. If you just want to take the roughness feel out of the paint, use 1500 and dont really put pressure just kinda glide it over to sand off the dust that stuck to the paint. I was applying pressure with the 1000 because I had a lot of runs. If you don't have runs, use the 1500 and that will work nice. When I buffed, I used the nice 3M compound in the clear bottle. And the polish was also 3M (black bottle). I didn't know if I was going to have enough, so just in case, I bought the Turtle wax rubbing compound. It's a paste that comes in a white plastic container. It was cheap and I thought it would be good for the cheap interlux paint. I read on the net, not to buff enamel, but my paint came out great! I really need to post some recent pics. I'll try to do that this week. Oh and I used a buffer that I bought at Harbor Freight for like $20. It has 6 speeds and all the attachments. Just be careful, not to stay too long in a spot and use lot's of water to keep it cool. I burned a lil bit of paint on the passenger's side, right above the gutter on the cab.