dcg9381

I haven't done a remote turbo, but my assessment is the plumbing isn't easier. You have to plumb a much longer oil feed, physically pump the oil back into the motor via an electric return and the entire exhaust system has to be a lot more solid to put up with the weight of the turbo.

Search - there's a reference for a quasi-remote mounted 3.0L turbo that worked well. It was fueled by an alternate injector setup.

MonsterMaxx

Jeez, are we back on this FREE motor again and making it run like a SBC?

Now you want to do business with DOA = Dead On Arrival?
You are a glutton for punishment aren't you?

Tim/DOA is one of the worst crooks in the business. All he does is rebrand other's products and calls them his own. Most of the time the stuff doesn't even work and he'll blame everyone but himself. When you have a problem (and you will) you'll get screwed. Countless examples of this here and all over the net.

I'm telling you, come over to my house, bring your $, we'll flush it down the toilet here and I'll kick you in the balls so that you have the whole experience the rest of us have had. We can get it done quick like and you'll have learned your lesson and can get on with life instead of dragging this misery out for years like the rest of us have done.

Polishing the turd = not smart
Paying Tim/DOA 'help' you polish the turd = even dumber
Not listening to what everyone on YT is telling you = approaching subnormal intelligence
Being stubborn and doing it anyway, getting a royal screwing, finally admitting that what everyone told you is correct = priceless


Seriously man, you need to re-evaluate what you are doing, where you want to go and how much you are spending and the real results that can be expected.
Heck, if you are really this determined I'll sell you my highly polished turn key turd and move on to a SC3.4.
For a turd mine runs real good and it's got every doodad and custom work you could ask for.

mudbutt

Disregaurd my last post Bumpin, I went and looked at the 1988 new car featurs factory training manual and it says it is cast, high tensil steel. sorry about that. all of the componets are cast from the top to the bottom.

Schralper

The exhaust system isn't designed to HOLD up the turbo. Your exhaust shouldn't be a stressed part. You need to mount the turbo solidly, no matter.
WOW, if plumbing some flex line and an electric oil pump is really that tuff, ya might wanna rethink CUSTOM fab or engine work!
There IS less work involved w/ a remote than near engine mounted turbo. Like WAY more room around HOT turbo. You just don't get as much performance as you can w/ near engine mounted. Becuz you're limited by total boost (5-10psi) anyway.
But 30-50% increases are possible w/ remote.
Run exhaust to turbo (pretty easy w/ single exhaust pipe), run intake plumbing to turbo, install oil feed/return lines/pump. No custom fabbed headers $$, no added underhood heat, no disrupting of underhood parts, no i/c needed.
I'm in the process of building a T76 turbo engine, 388cid SBC, now.
Yes, I'm fabbing up my own turbo headers. Not easy or cheap.
But then again whadda I know.

Bill

How exactly are you mounting the turbo that the exhaust isn't taking any weight? Plumb the exhaust line to a crossmember(type dealy) that is drilled to mount the turbo on the other side? I'm curious to see.

You have to admit though, it does introduce a bunch more stuff you have to deal with. I just really hate dealing with anything electrical.

Schralper

No crossmember needed.
I think the stock exhaust uses hangers pretty good.
A small turbo doesn't weigh much more, if any, than stock muffler assy.
You MIGHT have to fab a small mounting bracket.
What do you mean "introduce a bunch more stuff you have to deal with."
No it doesn't. It's less cuz nuthin underhood has to modified.
You still need to deal w/ oil to/from turbo no matter where its mounted.
Just don't normally need an electric oil pump w/o remote mount.
An electric oil pump is NO big deal vs custom fabbing a COMPLETE exhaust!
Check out here for more info on remote mount turbos
http://www.ststurbo.com/home
While I'm not goin that route, these guys have a good rep.
More GOOD turbo info here
http://www.turbomustangs.com/smf/

Bumpin' Yota

Monster is right - we really shouldn't polish the turd...but...I like claiming mental insanity!

(So would that be a side kick, a straight kick, or a jumping snap kick to the nuts? lol)

Im going to rebuild a new block from the ground up using my current heads, and see what happens. After that 5000 mile break in Ill look at TO4e-50 with a 0.63AR hotside. At 14.7 psi it should achieve 250hp crank hp without much ado.

but yeah STAY AWAY from DOA!!

shoes138

ok so could i swap the 3vz-fe crank into the 3vz block???

Bumpin' Yota

From everything that Ive read, yes you can. However your best bet would be to source one from a 3vze and from a 3vzfe and compare em

Bumpin' Yota

First off lemme start out by saying im just talking, not trying to be arguementative or offensive, and while I've done a lot of homework on turbos, I dont think that I know everything or anything close to everything...

Having said that, I have heard from more than one very reliable source (professional speed shops) than the sts turbo systems are crap. One story sticks in my mind about a camaro using one T67 or T66 size (I dont remember) and he had such horrible turbo lag, that the turbo wouldnt even build boost until 5000rpm!! That is completely unaccapable for that small of a turbo for that engine. The owner was happy as he had never driven a gasser that had been turboed properly. lol

Also I dont buy the not needing an intercooler for a second. A compressor operating to build X pressure will make Y temperature period. Simple thermodynamics states that heat will flow to an area devoid of heat according to the aluminum's specific heat. Specific heat is influenced by how much surface area the aluminum has in the airflow. Compare the surface area of even the smallest intercooler to the surface area of a 3" diameter charge pipe, all of which isnt even in the air stream. And youll see why every application out there over 5psi will need one. You do realise that at 15 psi a To4e-50 flowing 29lb/min will have an outlet temp of around 290*F? I dunno about you but I'd prefer that be closer to 100*F before it hits my AIT sensor.

Also an STS turbo system is a whole new exahust system, something you dont necessarily have to do with an underhood turbo...

CoedNaked

Why all the talk of a turbocharger, aren't they any aftermarket superchargers that could potentially be used?

dcg9381

The only aftermarket turbocharger that I know of being made for the 22R/22RE is made by Camden (now Atkins Rotary) - sold exclusively by LC Engineering. Cost is prohibitive, at almost $3k after you get everything you need. The blower is inefficient, design is old. Torque output is good, but you're probably giving away 50% of the power that the thing produces just to turn the belt.

I've owned one, there's a reason I went turbo.

For the 3.0L, there isn't a supercharger that I know of.
Rick at Fullboogie.net was selling 3.0L turbo kits at one time. The fab work I've seen out of his shop has been impressive, as is his ability to keep otherwise stock motors holding together when bolting on big power.

shoes138

did you put that built up 3vz motor in a 4x4? cuz if you did no wonder why you its so slow! i drove a 4x4 with a 3vz n it was hella slow. but the 3vz motor in a 2wd yota is quite fast if you ask me! so even with a lil modding i think she will be fast enough for me!

Crymson

I agree with this statement above. The 3.0 in my 86' 4x4 is more than adequate speed wise after several bolt on modifications. Granted that is with custom ram air, fuel tuning, reprogrammed ecu, headers, zero restriction exhaust, electric fan, emission system bypassed, "regearing" by using 255/40/17 tires, extensive weight reduction inside and out, and replacing hood/fenders with fiberglass counterparts. Hmmm now that I think about it, that was a lot of work, and the truck is no longer suitable for daily driving. But the mildly modded 3.0 kicks ass in a lightweight chassis.

CoedNaked

It's not that the guys who own 4x4's are trying to make their 3.0 fast or a head turner or anything. If we wanted a fast 4x4 we'd buy a new Tacoma or even better, a new 5.7 L Tundra. It's that we love our trucks, the last fully boxed compact frame 4x4 to ever be made and sold in North America, and a truck with an engine that is durable, and it moves the truck around descently (at least in a manual) but I think most of us are saying if we had just a bit more HP and TQ, it would be a solid winner.

The thing about my truck that I love, is it's a truck. It's got a kick ass frame, it's a good looking truck, it's built tough, and it's built on the parallels of other Toyota trucks sold around the world. The Tacoma' that came after it, while it's a nice truck with a nice 3.4 L engine, doesn't have a fully boxed frame and isn't built as stoutly in my opinion (and many others) but it does have the 3.4 L engine which is a great drive train. The fully boxed frame can handle more abuse, and it is a better offroad platform to build onto because of it's rigid nature, as well as it's a much more friendly frame to hauling gear offroad - your bed won't flex when articulatinug as much as the Tacoma's.

So there are 2 ways to acheive what we want. For the more adventerous, you can go 3.4 swap, which is optimal and a great combination all things considered. But some don't require or need THAT much power, but just want a little more power for around town or off the pavement or whatever. I think I fall into the latter. I think my truck with the manual moves around fine enough, and all I want is just a tiny bit more pep. Like 5-10 HP and 10-20 foot pounds of torque.

shoes138

well i could see if i had a 4x4 i would want to swap the 3.4L motor in cuz the 3.0 is slow in the 4x4 for me at least!

CoedNaked

Just remember something though.

When you're talking about say, a manual Tacoma 3.4 to a Manual Pickup with the 3.0, the Tacoma's weigh about 400 pounds less give or take which handicaps the 3.0 right there. The only thing the 3.0 has going for it though, is it has a superior rear end with the 4.56's over the 4.30's or 4.10's in the Tacoma's. So there are some variables associated when you consider the factors at hand here. I honestly don't think the 3.4 is THAT much better than the 3.0 if you put them on a similar footing i.e. same weight of truck, same gears, etc,etc. etc.

The 3.0 does have good torque. You can load 'er up and it still doesn't bog the engine down that much. The thing I like about the 3.4, b/c my bro has one in his 96 4runner (a manual 4x4) is it seems to breath a little better at the lower RPM's. But it's not mind blowing.

Even the mechanics at the dealership I go to say the 3.4 in the 4runners still feels like a slug.

dcg9381

The 3.4L also has a factory SC option. It's no sports car, but it's easy to install and really wakes the thing up... I haven't driven the 4.0L yet.

shoes138

eh well i still love my 3.0L she has treated me well n now i will repay her back by givin her some performance parts thats she'll love!

MonsterMaxx

I have. The 4L w/ 5spd auto is a rocket compared to my modded 3.turd. A whole different animal.

When Toy releases the factory SC I think I'm going to find a rollover and clip the whole front end onto mine and q-link the rear.