90inworks

i have finaly had it with lack of intelligents put into the 22re exhaust manifold. no matter what i do it leaks within driving 10 miles! and cant seem to get the right nuts to fit the stud. Some one please tell me there is a cure for this. im ready to lay a fatty bead on it. any one else have problems with theres??? whats your biggest hate about the a yota (every one has one lets hear'em)

toytech76

Take it off and have a machine shop surface it right. Get a new toyota gasket with toyota exhaust nuts and torque it on correctly and you should be problem free

90inworks

sorry for not clarifying i ment after the manifold where it meets the pipe

AxleIke

.

That is damn funny right there. A pot and kettle come to mind. LOL. Just giving you a hard time.

Buy a header. Use plenty of high temp gasket sealer. Mines been leak free for 50k.

EWAYota

Weld it

toytech76

ohh ok. well make sure you have new donut gaskets and new nuts on it. Shouldn't be a problem after that. make sure the pipe isn't cracked. They are notorious for doing that. They usually crack right in the welded Y section of the pipe

90inworks

well ill search around for a good header i guess and seal it up good when i can afford one.....
wrenchs went flyin today thats all i gotta say

90inworks

even after new gaskets and new nuts and lock washers it still comes loose. its been broke and welded after the Y 3 times but is strong now

toytech76

Do you have a bracket thats bolted to the bellhousing that holds that pipe in place? Maybe too much eng flex it working it loose?

90inworks

no but good guess. And i cant hardly get a damn wrench in the motor compartment any ways

olharleyman

Try lock nuts and locktite that should stop them from loosening up

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

LCE has a fix for you.

Elton

x2 i went with there header on my 22re never leaked again and made good power with a new 2.25'' exhaust

idanity

not loctite.
use locking washers.
nylon nuts will melt, and loctite will freeze the nuts on forever.
orange-high temp silicon (mentioned above) is on my headers, and after i went through 3 sets, the silicon held up (on 4k now).


goo up the flanges, and let it cure for about a beer, when its slightly tacky, set it all back in place, and allow it to cure another 24hours.

hope that helps.

My99

If it makes you feel any better I've paid a muffler shop over $100 now with multiple attempts to fix mine. They've failed each time. Irritates the heck out of me. Luckily the muffler's about shot and it's now drowning out the header leak.

ATA_Spiffy

I've had the same problem with my 94' still trying to find a fix. I might try the silicone idea this evening and see what happens. I've already went through countless sets of new donut seals and they never last more than a few weeks before the problem is back again. Oh yea and also the muffler bracket on the bell housing is still in place so I don't think it is the engine movement. The welding up solid has been tempting me lately as well...lol.

spdjnky

I have the same problem and mine still leaks from time to time after trying all of the above. So I am saving my pennies for a header or waiting for someone on here to sell one cheap!

Flash319

The manifold cracks as well. I have 2 of them. They crack at the back where you can't see it.

loacyota

From the start they have those lock nuts, and after you take them off it usually gawls up the thread on the studs. Take the studs out using the double nut technique, or they make stud removing tools. Get new studs and nuts or use bolts that are the same length. When I rebuilt my 22r I did the same thing, It wouldnt tighten up enough. dont reuse the donut gaskets even if they are semi-new, when you tighten down the nuts, it crushes them. one time use only. put the new ones on and some high temp sealer and you should be good to go.

Matt16

Hi-temp (orange) RTV will turn to ash, but it seems to still help a bit. Locktite will be useless, as it will burn off.

The only thing that worked for me was to use anti-seize on the stud and really crank the bolt on. I've heard anti-seize triples the effective clamping force and I believe it.