Running rich and poor acceleration - running like crap
06-25-2010, 08:05 AM
#47
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Sorry about the delayed response. She is still in the shop. Two of the injectors were bad. My mechanic got a great deal on a whole new set of them, as opposed to remanufactering them - so he put the new set in. We are now running on 6 cylinders, but he says it is still running a bit rough. He is going to do some more diagnostics today and he suspects there may be a vacumme leak somewhere. Looks like there was definitely more than one issue going on...
06-29-2010, 11:22 AM
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Just talked to my mechanic. He says that cylinder 3 is not properly firing at idle. He says the cylinder has good compression, the plug and wires are good and the injector is good. He mention something about testing the egr valve and that was also good. The only thing left he suspects is that there might be a leak in the manifold. Any other ideas?
He said it drives great - the only issue is the idle. He said something about how it will flood the cylinder if it idles for too long.
He said it drives great - the only issue is the idle. He said something about how it will flood the cylinder if it idles for too long.
Last edited by 4runner316; 06-29-2010 at 11:23 AM.
07-05-2010, 01:41 PM
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Got her back - an abosolute night and day difference from when I dropped her off. I'm now running on all 6 cyliders, yay!!! Remanned injectors, new plugs, wires, cap and rotor. He also said some of the vaccum lines for the EGR valve were messed up, so he fixed those all up. The tune up stuff was just supposedly replaced 8000 miles ago according to the receipt that the previous owner gave me, but my mechanic said he has serious doubts as to if it really was or not. It is still running a bit rich at idle. My mechanic said that cylinder 3 is not properly firing at idle and he cant figure out what is causing that. He said to drive it for awhile and bring it back to him. Well now I seemed to mess something up while doin some "urban off-roading" today - see my newest post entitled "wheel bearing lock up?"
07-06-2010, 11:56 PM
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Well alright........good news! Cyl 3 not firing at idle? I guess at this point, it's gotta be something mechanical. Sticky valve?
10-02-2011, 08:02 PM
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hey guys. im a new user but not a new yota owner. i have a problem that im hoping someone can help me with.
i have a 1990 4runner with the 3.0 v6. the engine was filthy so i decided to take it to a self serve carwash and washed off the engine. it started and ran fine on the way home. i parked it for about and hour and when i came back to go to the store it wouldnt start. starter was turning over fine but it just wouldnt kick over. i pulled off the distributor cap and dried out the little amount of water that was in there. it would now start but runs like crap and then dies. any ideas on what i messed up or what i can do to fix this problem? thanks in advance.
i have a 1990 4runner with the 3.0 v6. the engine was filthy so i decided to take it to a self serve carwash and washed off the engine. it started and ran fine on the way home. i parked it for about and hour and when i came back to go to the store it wouldnt start. starter was turning over fine but it just wouldnt kick over. i pulled off the distributor cap and dried out the little amount of water that was in there. it would now start but runs like crap and then dies. any ideas on what i messed up or what i can do to fix this problem? thanks in advance.
04-09-2015, 06:53 AM
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hope this helps someone
1990 4 runner, 3.0, auto, 4wd. After replacing fuel pump, vehicle ran fine, except when "flooring it," then it would sputter. Hence began the process. Replaced the TPS, knock sensor, and the MAF sensor...none of which solved the problem. FINALLY, when dropping the tank again and re-checking the pump, discovered the rubber section of the fuel line (located on the top of the tank) was collapsing under pressure...hence restricting flow intermittently. Replaced the line, and it now runs like new.
02-25-2017, 11:56 AM
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Alright guys, I think I might have narrowed it down to the AFM. I just want to run this by you guys before I dump the money to get it fixed. I tried "slapping it", but it doesn't resolve my problem. It looks like mine was modified at one time or something, there is somekind of sealent all around the top. I'm guessing it was either replaced or remanufacted at some point and they didn't put in a new gasket, so they just sealed the top off with sealant. Here is a pic.
According to the Haynes manual, the ohms are off and needs to be replaced. If I measure terminals "Vs and E2" I get nothing. Can somebody confirm that theirs DOES measure an ohm reading at these terminals? There are 7 prongs. The fifth and sixth prongs would be "Vs and E2".
I almost had a heart attack when I got a quote from the dealer for a new one of these. Yeah... Almost $1000!!!! Autozone has a remanned for $200.
Thank you!
According to the Haynes manual, the ohms are off and needs to be replaced. If I measure terminals "Vs and E2" I get nothing. Can somebody confirm that theirs DOES measure an ohm reading at these terminals? There are 7 prongs. The fifth and sixth prongs would be "Vs and E2".
I almost had a heart attack when I got a quote from the dealer for a new one of these. Yeah... Almost $1000!!!! Autozone has a remanned for $200.
Thank you!
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