Rebuilt motor: White smoke and water in oil :(
10-26-2009, 08:29 PM
#41
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Was your bore gauge a snap gauge, or a dial bore gauge?
Deck plates are over rated. They are great to have used, but if the person operating the honing machine does not keep the hone adjusted properly as the honing proceeds it gets loose and you end up bell mouthed. You would
have been able to spot this sort of trouble with snap gauges, however, so I presume that this is not the problem.
I hope it works out, it generally sucks to have an engine build go south.
Regards,
Eugene
Deck plates are over rated. They are great to have used, but if the person operating the honing machine does not keep the hone adjusted properly as the honing proceeds it gets loose and you end up bell mouthed. You would
have been able to spot this sort of trouble with snap gauges, however, so I presume that this is not the problem.
I hope it works out, it generally sucks to have an engine build go south.
Regards,
Eugene
Thanks for the advice Eugene, really good. I do have a bore gauge and mic set, I did measure everything up prior to assembly however the machine shop I used only bored w/ the main caps torqued, they didn't use a deck plate or bore/hone while hot so I am unsure how my 70 degree F head-less measurements would actually have ended up with the head torqued down at operating temp. My measurements were at least within spec, but hardly perfect with some slight tapering evident (though no out of round evident).
I will put a rubber o-ring around the dip stick to get a seal for the mean time until I can find a better one.
Will put another few hundred miles on it and re-inspect plugs + compression.
I will put a rubber o-ring around the dip stick to get a seal for the mean time until I can find a better one.
Will put another few hundred miles on it and re-inspect plugs + compression.
10-26-2009, 09:06 PM
#42
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I once had a 71 vette with a high compression 327 engine; well I still have the 71 vette with a different 350 engine now. It ran like crazy with four spark plugs hammered shorted by the 11:1 piston domes. The place that I had bought it from had installed incorrect plugs. It did tend to keep running a while after the ignition was turned off, it turned out that the spark plugs were kind of optional for this level of compression on the gas available. I suppose that a couple of good plugs got it going, and then the compression took care of the rest of the cylinders because it ran like a demon.
When I finally got tired of the strange antics on shut down and tore it down, several pistons had broken rings, but only one broken ring on any given piston. Compression measurements were fine, and in fact quite out of sight as it was an 11:1 motor after all. After that, I never thought that one broken ring would do you in, and I had learned that a motor could run a long time with a broken ring[s] if there was only one broken ring on any given piston.
I bought my Toyota truck in 91 to take the vette motor to the machine shop, so to speak, and learned the joys of four wheeling as a side effect. One of these days I will put the third motor that I have built for the vette into the car. Those motors just don't last a long as a good Toy motor and the clutch and tires have an even shorter life. Short exhaust valve life on the 3VZE has kept my seat grinding equipment busy.
I would go 1500 miles before I wrote off your rings. If you broke one on assembly, you would know it in because that one piston did not slip in nice and smooth and you had to coax it with a mallet much more than the rest. It is easy to have happen, but I would not assume that it happened in your case. I did that to a BMW 325e I gave to my son for high school and college and had to buy a second complete ring set to get the one ring I broke. It must have been my 10th motor, but It was part of life's experiences. I knew that the one piston had not gone as smoothly as the rest and pulled it out (just my paranoia) to find the broken ring.
Popped out of the groove is really hard to imagine, but they can crack.
If you had all your pistons go in nice and smooth, you only have a seating problem.
Regards,
Eugene
When I finally got tired of the strange antics on shut down and tore it down, several pistons had broken rings, but only one broken ring on any given piston. Compression measurements were fine, and in fact quite out of sight as it was an 11:1 motor after all. After that, I never thought that one broken ring would do you in, and I had learned that a motor could run a long time with a broken ring[s] if there was only one broken ring on any given piston.
I bought my Toyota truck in 91 to take the vette motor to the machine shop, so to speak, and learned the joys of four wheeling as a side effect. One of these days I will put the third motor that I have built for the vette into the car. Those motors just don't last a long as a good Toy motor and the clutch and tires have an even shorter life. Short exhaust valve life on the 3VZE has kept my seat grinding equipment busy.
I would go 1500 miles before I wrote off your rings. If you broke one on assembly, you would know it in because that one piston did not slip in nice and smooth and you had to coax it with a mallet much more than the rest. It is easy to have happen, but I would not assume that it happened in your case. I did that to a BMW 325e I gave to my son for high school and college and had to buy a second complete ring set to get the one ring I broke. It must have been my 10th motor, but It was part of life's experiences. I knew that the one piston had not gone as smoothly as the rest and pulled it out (just my paranoia) to find the broken ring.
Popped out of the groove is really hard to imagine, but they can crack.
If you had all your pistons go in nice and smooth, you only have a seating problem.
Regards,
Eugene
Umm also just wondering, if there was a catastrophic issue with the rings e.g., broken or somehow popped out of the groove (is that even possible?) wouldn't that cause catastrophic problems immediately and be very evident on a static compression test? I am assuming at this stage "yes" and the only possible problem I could have with rings right now is whether they have/will seated in properly or not during/after the first 1000 miles.
Last edited by eugenedbrooksiii; 10-26-2009 at 09:10 PM.
10-27-2009, 01:46 PM
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I once had a 71 vette with a high compression 327 engine; well I still have the 71 vette with a different 350 engine now. It ran like crazy with four spark plugs hammered shorted by the 11:1 piston domes. The place that I had bought it from had installed incorrect plugs. It did tend to keep running a while after the ignition was turned off, it turned out that the spark plugs were kind of optional for this level of compression on the gas available. I suppose that a couple of good plugs got it going, and then the compression took care of the rest of the cylinders because it ran like a demon.
When I finally got tired of the strange antics on shut down and tore it down, several pistons had broken rings, but only one broken ring on any given piston. Compression measurements were fine, and in fact quite out of sight as it was an 11:1 motor after all. After that, I never thought that one broken ring would do you in, and I had learned that a motor could run a long time with a broken ring[s] if there was only one broken ring on any given piston.
I bought my Toyota truck in 91 to take the vette motor to the machine shop, so to speak, and learned the joys of four wheeling as a side effect. One of these days I will put the third motor that I have built for the vette into the car. Those motors just don't last a long as a good Toy motor and the clutch and tires have an even shorter life. Short exhaust valve life on the 3VZE has kept my seat grinding equipment busy.
I would go 1500 miles before I wrote off your rings. If you broke one on assembly, you would know it in because that one piston did not slip in nice and smooth and you had to coax it with a mallet much more than the rest. It is easy to have happen, but I would not assume that it happened in your case. I did that to a BMW 325e I gave to my son for high school and college and had to buy a second complete ring set to get the one ring I broke. It must have been my 10th motor, but It was part of life's experiences. I knew that the one piston had not gone as smoothly as the rest and pulled it out (just my paranoia) to find the broken ring.
Popped out of the groove is really hard to imagine, but they can crack.
If you had all your pistons go in nice and smooth, you only have a seating problem.
Regards,
Eugene
When I finally got tired of the strange antics on shut down and tore it down, several pistons had broken rings, but only one broken ring on any given piston. Compression measurements were fine, and in fact quite out of sight as it was an 11:1 motor after all. After that, I never thought that one broken ring would do you in, and I had learned that a motor could run a long time with a broken ring[s] if there was only one broken ring on any given piston.
I bought my Toyota truck in 91 to take the vette motor to the machine shop, so to speak, and learned the joys of four wheeling as a side effect. One of these days I will put the third motor that I have built for the vette into the car. Those motors just don't last a long as a good Toy motor and the clutch and tires have an even shorter life. Short exhaust valve life on the 3VZE has kept my seat grinding equipment busy.
I would go 1500 miles before I wrote off your rings. If you broke one on assembly, you would know it in because that one piston did not slip in nice and smooth and you had to coax it with a mallet much more than the rest. It is easy to have happen, but I would not assume that it happened in your case. I did that to a BMW 325e I gave to my son for high school and college and had to buy a second complete ring set to get the one ring I broke. It must have been my 10th motor, but It was part of life's experiences. I knew that the one piston had not gone as smoothly as the rest and pulled it out (just my paranoia) to find the broken ring.
Popped out of the groove is really hard to imagine, but they can crack.
If you had all your pistons go in nice and smooth, you only have a seating problem.
Regards,
Eugene
I will say that a couple of the pistons needed a very light tap with the wood end of a mallet, but nothing heavy. Not enough to hurt your thumb if you were hitting it. The other two I pushed in with my hands, though they definitely didn't "slide in" without effort. My ring compressor is just one of those ty ratcheting types. Maybe I shouldn't have cheaped out on that particular tool...
Will give it a 1000 more miles and do some basic diagnostics. Definitely think this thing is running rich, very easy to smell fuel when blipping the throttle at a standstill (which is incidently the only time any smoke can be seen now, and only for the first "blip"). Am now debating with myself whether to fork out the retarded $$ for a new AFM or spend the same on a megasquirt setup... arrrr.
If I have to redo the rings, it will need to wait until the spring/summer. Fortunately I can buy individual rings from Total Seal rather than spending another couple hundred on a full set. I think I would go with forged pistons if I had to take the rotating assy out again too... one day it will see FI
10-27-2009, 04:19 PM
#44
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Then you are set for measuring bores and clearances. You set the mic on the piston for the bore at the right spot, lock it, and then zero the bore gauge to it. The bore gauge then reads the clearance directly as you check the bore. Unless the pistons are all measure the same size to 1/10000 inch you custom fit each bore. If you had a problem with the bores you would have not missed it with your bore gauge.
Forged pistons may require different clearances, FYI.
Given your experience installing the pistons, I don't think there is any chance that you damaged a ring. Pushed in by hand is as slick as it gets, and a light tap from the handle end of a hammer is normal. A leakdown test if easy to do if you have the device for it and compressed air, and the equipment is a good thing to have, but I think that you will get another null result.
If things settle down over a few hundred miles and you can then hook up the PCV with no oil coming back to the plugs this was a short term thing with ring seating.
Good Luck
Eugene
Forged pistons may require different clearances, FYI.
Given your experience installing the pistons, I don't think there is any chance that you damaged a ring. Pushed in by hand is as slick as it gets, and a light tap from the handle end of a hammer is normal. A leakdown test if easy to do if you have the device for it and compressed air, and the equipment is a good thing to have, but I think that you will get another null result.
If things settle down over a few hundred miles and you can then hook up the PCV with no oil coming back to the plugs this was a short term thing with ring seating.
Good Luck
Eugene
I have a digital bore gauge & mititoyo mics FWIW. Used the mics to calib the gauge.
I will say that a couple of the pistons needed a very light tap with the wood end of a mallet, but nothing heavy. Not enough to hurt your thumb if you were hitting it. The other two I pushed in with my hands, though they definitely didn't "slide in" without effort. My ring compressor is just one of those ty ratcheting types. Maybe I shouldn't have cheaped out on that particular tool...
Will give it a 1000 more miles and do some basic diagnostics. Definitely think this thing is running rich, very easy to smell fuel when blipping the throttle at a standstill (which is incidently the only time any smoke can be seen now, and only for the first "blip"). Am now debating with myself whether to fork out the retarded $$ for a new AFM or spend the same on a megasquirt setup... arrrr.
If I have to redo the rings, it will need to wait until the spring/summer. Fortunately I can buy individual rings from Total Seal rather than spending another couple hundred on a full set. I think I would go with forged pistons if I had to take the rotating assy out again too... one day it will see FI
I will say that a couple of the pistons needed a very light tap with the wood end of a mallet, but nothing heavy. Not enough to hurt your thumb if you were hitting it. The other two I pushed in with my hands, though they definitely didn't "slide in" without effort. My ring compressor is just one of those ty ratcheting types. Maybe I shouldn't have cheaped out on that particular tool...
Will give it a 1000 more miles and do some basic diagnostics. Definitely think this thing is running rich, very easy to smell fuel when blipping the throttle at a standstill (which is incidently the only time any smoke can be seen now, and only for the first "blip"). Am now debating with myself whether to fork out the retarded $$ for a new AFM or spend the same on a megasquirt setup... arrrr.
If I have to redo the rings, it will need to wait until the spring/summer. Fortunately I can buy individual rings from Total Seal rather than spending another couple hundred on a full set. I think I would go with forged pistons if I had to take the rotating assy out again too... one day it will see FI
10-27-2009, 09:26 PM
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Just thought that I would note that there is another thread
where someone is having oil issues on a 4 cylinder rebuild.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...engine-151855/
where someone is having oil issues on a 4 cylinder rebuild.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...engine-151855/
10-28-2009, 08:16 AM
#46
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Quick update, 500 miles on the clock now and here is the #3 and #1 plugs respectively. #3 looks like running rich, #1 looks like something worse again 
I will note that I tried the water-sucked-up-by-vacuum trick to clean out the combustion chambers but it did not make an appreciable difference.
Exhaust definitely smells of fuel when running it hardish, definite "soot" to the exhaust when initially getting on it. Installing O2 wideband + gauge this week... Going to try to source a new AFM while I'm at it.
One thing that occured to me in a dream (don't ask) is whether going to studs w/ nuts on the intake to head interface requires a different torque spec? My understanding is that torque specs are for the fasteners to stretch appropriately as much as anything else. Perhaps these fasteners I have used are significantly higher grade, perhaps that was a mistake... I will recheck to see if any are loosening... it came to me last night for some stupid reason ... arg. Dreaming of this thing now... not good.
I will note that I tried the water-sucked-up-by-vacuum trick to clean out the combustion chambers but it did not make an appreciable difference.Exhaust definitely smells of fuel when running it hardish, definite "soot" to the exhaust when initially getting on it. Installing O2 wideband + gauge this week... Going to try to source a new AFM while I'm at it.
One thing that occured to me in a dream (don't ask) is whether going to studs w/ nuts on the intake to head interface requires a different torque spec? My understanding is that torque specs are for the fasteners to stretch appropriately as much as anything else. Perhaps these fasteners I have used are significantly higher grade, perhaps that was a mistake... I will recheck to see if any are loosening... it came to me last night for some stupid reason ... arg. Dreaming of this thing now... not good.
10-28-2009, 06:43 PM
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Cool, great advice. It would appear that my AFM is jacked up as it is not giving anywhere NEAR an increasing reading from 20-1000 ohms over the full vane travel. More like 300-1600 and flopping back and forth between 400 and 1200+ 5 or 6 times across the travel. I busted it open and noticed if I applied very light pressure to the copper contacts the resistance would drop noticably at all points, so pulled it apart and bent the copper a little downwards. The resistance is now between ~120 and 1000, but it is still going up and down in steps, and not really increasing either... definitely seems bung compared to what I have read.
It runs, but smells rich. I am not seeing the same smoke while running/idling anymore, I am starting to believe this may have been a ring seating issue (e.g., seeing oil burning before rings had seated, and while I had the apparent blow by issue). I am seeing a darker smoke when blipping the throttle, which goes away if the throttle is held at some engine speed (e.g., 3k rpm).
Are you saying take the PCV off as well as the front breather? I just took the front cap off (just have a breather filter on the PCV right now) and don't feel air blowing out (or sucking in).
It runs, but smells rich. I am not seeing the same smoke while running/idling anymore, I am starting to believe this may have been a ring seating issue (e.g., seeing oil burning before rings had seated, and while I had the apparent blow by issue). I am seeing a darker smoke when blipping the throttle, which goes away if the throttle is held at some engine speed (e.g., 3k rpm).
Are you saying take the PCV off as well as the front breather? I just took the front cap off (just have a breather filter on the PCV right now) and don't feel air blowing out (or sucking in).
10-28-2009, 07:00 PM
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If your AFM is not behaving like the manual says it should, replace it.
If your plugs are not uniform in color, the ones you showed certainly are not, and you have port injectors, they need to go to the WitchDoctor.
Homeless is right with regard to checking for blowby. If you plug all the crank case holes, except for one, and run the motor with no gas output, you don't have any blowby.
Do you still have oil in your intake runners, after isolating the crank case from the intake?
Eugene
If your plugs are not uniform in color, the ones you showed certainly are not, and you have port injectors, they need to go to the WitchDoctor.
Homeless is right with regard to checking for blowby. If you plug all the crank case holes, except for one, and run the motor with no gas output, you don't have any blowby.
Do you still have oil in your intake runners, after isolating the crank case from the intake?
Eugene
10-28-2009, 07:04 PM
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If your AFM is not behaving like the manual says it should, replace it.
If your plugs are not uniform in color, the ones you showed certainly are not, and you have port injectors, they need to go to the WitchDoctor.
Homeless is right with regard to checking for blowby. If you plug all the crank case holes, except for one, and run the motor with no gas output, you don't have any blowby.
Do you still have oil in your intake runners, after isolating the crank case from the intake?
Eugene
If your plugs are not uniform in color, the ones you showed certainly are not, and you have port injectors, they need to go to the WitchDoctor.
Homeless is right with regard to checking for blowby. If you plug all the crank case holes, except for one, and run the motor with no gas output, you don't have any blowby.
Do you still have oil in your intake runners, after isolating the crank case from the intake?
Eugene
Don't know about the runners, have to take the plenum off to check (I presume? Don't have a boroscope to wiggle down one of the plenum vac ports)
10-28-2009, 07:34 PM
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It is curious that there is such disparity on the plugs, then,
but if the AFM is bad you need to get it out of the equation
and then see what you have. Pot wipers go bad.
Then, any oil in the intake runners is a tell, since it
must be coming from the guides when the crankcase
is isolated.
Eugene
but if the AFM is bad you need to get it out of the equation
and then see what you have. Pot wipers go bad.
Then, any oil in the intake runners is a tell, since it
must be coming from the guides when the crankcase
is isolated.
Eugene
10-28-2009, 08:42 PM
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It is curious that there is such disparity on the plugs, then,
but if the AFM is bad you need to get it out of the equation
and then see what you have. Pot wipers go bad.
Then, any oil in the intake runners is a tell, since it
must be coming from the guides when the crankcase
is isolated.
Eugene
but if the AFM is bad you need to get it out of the equation
and then see what you have. Pot wipers go bad.
Then, any oil in the intake runners is a tell, since it
must be coming from the guides when the crankcase
is isolated.
Eugene
I will bring my multimeter in tow...
Gee a borescope would be nice to take a look into things right now... what's a good one?
10-28-2009, 09:02 PM
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The part number for the AFM changed in Aug 88, so I would stay
with 89, 90, 91. These years all have the same part number.
A borescope is one thing I don't have.
I guess I enjoy ripping them apart too much...
Eugene
with 89, 90, 91. These years all have the same part number.
A borescope is one thing I don't have.
I guess I enjoy ripping them apart too much...
Eugene
Yep, have found a couple of junk yards with some AFMs from these trucks. Am I correct that any in the 85-91 year models would work? Or do I need specifically an 89 (my truck being an 89).
I will bring my multimeter in tow...
Gee a borescope would be nice to take a look into things right now... what's a good one?
I will bring my multimeter in tow...
Gee a borescope would be nice to take a look into things right now... what's a good one?
10-29-2009, 06:51 AM
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Gotta pay for it somehow though...I have to say, after trying to fix my AFM, while it's clearly not perfect, it does seem to be running better and I didn't see sooty exhaust when gunning it after my drive into work this morning... I think the mix is "better" but no way to tell if its really good until I get this LC1 o2 sens installed... maybe tonight...
Really liking the look of a MegaSquirt DIYPNP setup right now... eff this stupid VAFM thing, what's a hokey piece of crap...
10-29-2009, 06:59 AM
#54
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I've been watching this thread. Sounds tough. Have you excluded the water mixing into the oil aspect of this? you saw my mess, that's why i was so much into saying you didn't have water issues.
10-29-2009, 09:10 AM
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What was "white smoke" is thus far attributable to oil that was getting into the intake, apparently via the PCV (although the jury is still out on that as a definite, as I need to inspect the intake runners again after several hundred miles w/ a breather on the PCV and no connection between crankcase/valvetrain and the intake).
Definitely have never had the pea soup mess you did, I just worried a bit much about the darkness of my first two oil changes. I changed oil about 100 miles ago (3rd oil chg on the new motor) and it has stayed golden thus far... indicating to me this was only an artifact of rings that had not yet seated fully.
Well, I guess I'd rather overreact than there actually be a major problem... We will see how things go as I put more miles on it and fix my rich mix issue.
10-29-2009, 11:59 AM
#57
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GNARLS
i'm miles behind these guys....probably sould not have opened my truck up without the proper funding in place 1st. But the knowledge I'm gaining in the interim is priceless (SNIFF!). I don't mind if people learn from my mistakes, as long as I learn too. If it's at my expense, good for you, bad for me, but that's not exactly how I feel. If I make a mistake twice, I should have known better, to make it once is a mulligan as far as I'm concerned.
As far as having issues with a fresh build, OY! You have every right to be 2nd and 3rd guessing everything and "over reacting".....(no such thing when it comes to this stuff). over reacting would be pulling the engine and throwing it off a bridge.....short of doing that is just protecting your investment of time and money.
YOTATECH is the best therapy for me and all my questions and concerns.
i'm miles behind these guys....probably sould not have opened my truck up without the proper funding in place 1st. But the knowledge I'm gaining in the interim is priceless (SNIFF!). I don't mind if people learn from my mistakes, as long as I learn too. If it's at my expense, good for you, bad for me, but that's not exactly how I feel. If I make a mistake twice, I should have known better, to make it once is a mulligan as far as I'm concerned.
As far as having issues with a fresh build, OY! You have every right to be 2nd and 3rd guessing everything and "over reacting".....(no such thing when it comes to this stuff). over reacting would be pulling the engine and throwing it off a bridge.....short of doing that is just protecting your investment of time and money.
YOTATECH is the best therapy for me and all my questions and concerns.
10-29-2009, 12:46 PM
#58
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Hey 92,
Well... there will always be someone "miles ahead" of you and me and most of us. Just keep in touch... Cell phone... CB.... Yotatech.... email....
Remember, not all things posted *anywhere* on the net can be trusted as the truth or facts. There are lots of comments that are simply BS or just plain mis-information.
Pay attention... take notes, and share.
gNARLs.
Well... there will always be someone "miles ahead" of you and me and most of us. Just keep in touch... Cell phone... CB.... Yotatech.... email....
Remember, not all things posted *anywhere* on the net can be trusted as the truth or facts. There are lots of comments that are simply BS or just plain mis-information.
Pay attention... take notes, and share.
gNARLs.
tanx........I trust all of yas....hell I just told everybody to come to my house on a different thread.
10-29-2009, 07:54 PM
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I think this is now pretty much case closed w.r.t the minor smoke I am seeing:
Installed a wideband o2 sensor tonight:
Here's where it goes through the firewall:
Here's the interior, yes this is ghetto right now... Those L brackets are for a case I'm welding up which will contain all of this + provide a mounting face for various gauges:
Here's what I think is the root cause (notice the gouges in the VAFM):
So, now for the interesting part:
Anywhere below 3/4 throttle and 3800RPM, I am seeing very slightly rich of stoch around 14.5. This is good.
However, when I get into the throttle past 3/4, this quickly nose dives to 11.8-12.0! Likewise when the motor is spinning past 3800+, suddenly nose dives to high 11's low 12's (regardless of throttle input). This would explain why the thing seems to "not go any faster" past 3800 rpm and also feels to have "dead throttle" for the last inch or so of travel... Sheesh! Also I sat in the driveway and blipped the throttle (only way I am seeing any smokey out the back) and watched the gauge at the same time; suddenly drops to 12.0ish for the blip right as I see a little puff of smoke out of the tailpipe...
BAH!
P.S. $5 to whoever first spots my ing annoying coolant leak...
Installed a wideband o2 sensor tonight:
Here's where it goes through the firewall:
Here's the interior, yes this is ghetto right now... Those L brackets are for a case I'm welding up which will contain all of this + provide a mounting face for various gauges:
Here's what I think is the root cause (notice the gouges in the VAFM):
So, now for the interesting part:
Anywhere below 3/4 throttle and 3800RPM, I am seeing very slightly rich of stoch around 14.5. This is good.
However, when I get into the throttle past 3/4, this quickly nose dives to 11.8-12.0! Likewise when the motor is spinning past 3800+, suddenly nose dives to high 11's low 12's (regardless of throttle input). This would explain why the thing seems to "not go any faster" past 3800 rpm and also feels to have "dead throttle" for the last inch or so of travel... Sheesh! Also I sat in the driveway and blipped the throttle (only way I am seeing any smokey out the back) and watched the gauge at the same time; suddenly drops to 12.0ish for the blip right as I see a little puff of smoke out of the tailpipe...
BAH!
P.S. $5 to whoever first spots my ing annoying coolant leak...
10-30-2009, 05:12 AM
#60
I had the same problem, and it was my head gasket. I was loosing Radiator water and blowing white smoke with water in my oil. That was because the water and oil was mixing and going into my number one cylinder after they passed by the head gasket. When the truck was running the oil pressure overpowered the radiator pressure at about 40ibs, therefor it would push oil into the radiator. When i would cut the truck off, the oil pressure dropped to 0 (as it should) but the radiator stays at about 10ibs and slowly goes down, This means that the water from the radiator is now over powering the oil pressure, and was able to seep into the oil pan, therefor mixing water with the oil.
I know it sounds like its not possible with a newly rebuilt motor, but its possible the head gasket was damaged when you put it in, or damaged while putting it in, A small bend in the gasket will mess you up. Let me know how it goes. Hope it works out for you.
I know it sounds like its not possible with a newly rebuilt motor, but its possible the head gasket was damaged when you put it in, or damaged while putting it in, A small bend in the gasket will mess you up. Let me know how it goes. Hope it works out for you.
Last edited by Bojangles; 10-30-2009 at 05:15 AM.
