Babypig

you wanna try lift two heads at the same time? Plus i don't think they would clear the locating studs

Bumpin' Yota

Oh im past all that. I removed the crossover pipe from the backside of the driver's side manifold, then removed the downpipes bolts from the drivers side manifold. I then unbolted all the studs from the passenger sides manifold (leaving the crossover attached. Via this route I was able to pull the driver's and passenger's head thus leaving the passengers side and xover there.

jeepboyny

just small locating tabs sticking out of the block. I had no problem doing it this way. They are little ole aluminum heads. Don't weigh much. It's not like this thing is a big block chevy with cast iron heads. Why fuss with extra bolts and nuts under the hood if you can wait and do it on the bench? I left the crossover and both exhaust manifolds on the heads and it lifted out with no problem.

Babypig

I didn't realize they were so light. I just rermember pulling the heads on a 455 olds rocket and your right they were not so light.

Ganoid

Not to burst your bubble but mine still had all the crosshatching at 180k but upon inspection at the machine shop it to .020 over to get the taper out of the cyl walls. At least new pistons where cheap...

Bumpin' Yota

Well the s2s cams ARE IN THE BUILDING!!!

Now i have to find time to pull the other head, install em, then ship em off to engine builder to do his magic to my heads!

Pics of the cams coming. They look like they are a longer duration than oem, not sure about lift, but Id wager a small amount more lift too.

kevin444

cough cough 5vz time!!! jk jk = D good stuff there mang that some crazy rebuild. port and polish

Bumpin' Yota

Ok the S2Stuning camshafts came in!!! Here's what they look like compared to the OEM unit seen behind.





Dont let this pic fool you, the duration is longer and the lift is the same from what I can tell in person





Here are the washers that are used to space your shims up:





Can you say carbon deposition?!? This is cylinder #5 on the good side.




Cylinder #3





Cylinders 5, 3, and 1 from right to left...

Bumpin' Yota

Here's what the block looks like:



Remember those special washers that come with the cams? They go underneath your shims in the buckets. Here you can see me using a VW shim puller to extract the shim.



Shim removed on this one and placing the washer in:


washer in! Now place shim over top of the washer and yer done!

ovrrdrive

Good to see you making progress again man...

Bumpin' Yota

damn fotothing is down again...oh well justwanted to let everyone know the heads are on their way to Ted and his son Tod at engine builder to do their thing with!

I soooo cant wait!!

TNRabbit

Good to see you back at it, Bumpin'!

DANG! Those heads are CRISPY! I wonder if mine look like that on the inside...??

What exactly are the washers that go under the shims FOR??!?

Keep the pics coming....

Bumpin' Yota

Thankfully that peeling black stuff is just carbon deposits. Those things glow super hot in your combustion chambers and cause pinging and detonation. Im hoping that those things were the reason my truck only liked 93 octane from the one hess station down the road....lol

The washers are machined washers under the shims to make up for what was machined off of the cams. The base circle has been reduced by the thickness of that shim. But by doing it that way you can completely change the profile without having to reweld the cam lobes.

I think...lol Thats just from me thinking about it after looking at em...hehe

Bumpin' Yota

Well the heads should be on their way back now. Im not sure Ted wants me divulging prices here but Im a 100% satisfied customer already and the heads arent even back yet!!

What's coming:
1 100% rebuilt heads
2. Street Port n Polish of the heads
3. Oversized intake and exhaust valves
4. Reshimming of the valve train for the new cams
5. Weasy's cams in there. (www.sea2skytuning.com)
6. Grade 10.9 Headbolts
7. Headgasket set

As far as what I paid for the things coming, it's significantly less then I have found ANY reman'ed engine for!!

I cant WAIT for this thing to get running agian!!

Morphine

Man I remember you walking me through most of this. i'm just glad time and work have allowed me to hop back on here and see your progress. I need to start working on my yota again. So far lookng good.

HAVOC

I've never done headgaskets on a 3.0 in a truck/4runner.
I know on the engines at work (Lexus) there is a spot on the cam where you can put a large wrench to keep it from turning while loosening the cam sprocket bolt.
Yes, an impact wrench works but only if space permits (longitudinal) engines. Transferse mounted engines (Camry's and ES300's) don't have a lot of room.

Bumpin' Yota

i ended up just making a jig to hold the cam sproken still with a 36" long bar to hold it still while i went to town iwth a 24" breaker bar. They broke loose at about the same kind of torque as the crank bolt did.

CanadianToy

Do you have a graph or approximate HP #s from the Weasy2k cams?

Let me know if the shim spacers put the valve clearance within spec even after the valve job.

I'd love to see Dyno or G-Tech results when you are done.

CT

Bumpin' Yota

part of what I paid for in the head rebuild was reshimming the valves with the new cams and those spacers. So honestly I have no idea how close it was but it should have been pretty darn close...

The cams have 0.020" more lift and engine builder's profiler listed something in the 270* duration range, but there are LOTS of different ways of measuring the duration. Official duration is 262* though .

ill have to do some digging to find those graphs though....post back later

Bumpin' Yota

This is with a 100% stock 3vze before and after cams. So I should see even better results with the PNP and oversized valves! Red is OEM, blue is with cams. These cams also provided a 10% increase in fuel economy!