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odd tires blew rear diff...advice?

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Old 03-02-2008, 07:35 PM
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odd tires blew rear diff...advice?

My complements on your forum...

I am looking to buy a 95 4runner, 160,000mi. AT. $1600. New engine 30k ago. The girl that owned it had a flat, ran an odd sized spare until she wound out the rear diff. She had been driving it in 4wd-hi (presumably running on the front drive only and presumably on pavement...who knows).

Besides replacing the rear diff assembly (V6 turbo 8"???) what else might be wrong with it. I can see it being ok to run on the front as long as the rear isnt grabbing.

What are the signs that the front diff is going? Allignment problems?

Could this damage the transfer case or tranny?

What costs am I asking for here?

Would it be cheaper to just swap out the whole rear end/axel assembly?

Any advice is appreciated.
Old 03-02-2008, 07:37 PM
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i did the same thing, but i drove it on 2wd for a few days til i could get a tire and the dif blew the next week. cost like 500 and i had the ring and pinion set by a shop and did the labor of taking it in and out myself
Old 03-02-2008, 07:43 PM
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Ill admit to being not so savvy in terms of terms. You basically removed your rear diff and brought it to the shop then you did the reinstall?

What do you think...should I go for it?...maybe talk her down a bit?

Anything else you think I should look at closely before I drive it home?
Old 03-02-2008, 07:44 PM
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well she couldnt run it on front drive only since it doesnt have twin sticks and a disconnect for the rear driveline. Sounds like you may just need a new rear diff. Thats the first thing I would fix. You can get rebuild open diffs build and chipped for about 500 to 700. I would recomend if you can installing it in yourself saving labor costs of 90+ and hour. Not hard to do just time.

As for driving in 4hi it would put most stress on steering parts while turning.
Old 03-02-2008, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by halebopp
Ill admit to being not so savvy in terms of terms. You basically removed your rear diff and brought it to the shop then you did the reinstall?

What do you think...should I go for it?...maybe talk her down a bit?

Anything else you think I should look at closely before I drive it home?
Talk her down a bit and do the install work yourself. Check out northwest offroad and west coast differentials for build 3rd's/ Marlin sells good rebuild/seals you may also want to replace while tearing it down
Old 03-02-2008, 07:48 PM
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check the fluids and why is she selling it is a good question for her.
Old 03-02-2008, 07:52 PM
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Thank you for the advice. I kind of suspect that all I need is a rr diff. Ill quiz her on how long she drove it on the front...and Ill be sure to check the quality of the stearing...
Old 03-03-2008, 07:43 AM
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Im sure any other damage will be pretty noticable.

I would look for a used rear third. They can be had cheap - If this new runner came stock with 31" tires then you will have the factory 4.88 gears. This means you would have to get another third member if you wanted to use aftermarket gears.
Old 03-03-2008, 08:55 AM
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Could be a good deal IF thats all thats wrong. If I was sure I wanted that truck (and it's problems), I'd buy it as cheap as possible and replace the rear diff, commonly called a "3rd member", or "3rd", with a used 3rd. Used 3rd's are pretty cheap and usually serviceable. Any 8" 3rd will fit and work in the rear of an early, non Tacoma, '95 mini truck. Be sure to get the right ratio. Look in the classified section of this forum.
Good Luck
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Old 03-06-2008, 07:58 PM
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Well I purchased the truck. I paid the full price (1650) and didnt even have a chance to bargain her down as people started showing up and making noises about outbidding me. I was there first thankfully but these vultures just hung around even after I said I was definately buying the truck...Oh well. I still think I did ok. It runs really nicely but the allignment is way off and it pulls to the side after bumps. Getting it home was no problem. I drove it in 4wdhi for about 35 miles at 50mph. I will be going to a pick n pull on Sat. to get a rear third. I think I can figure out the repair on my own.

Also needs a CV boot replaced, and sometime down the road...the rear main seal is going to need some attention...
What is the best repair manual...Hanes or Chilton?
Old 03-06-2008, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by halebopp
What is the best repair manual...Hanes or Chilton?

TOYOTA factory
Old 03-06-2008, 08:36 PM
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What is the best repair manual...Hanes or Chilton?[/QUOTE]

Look in the faqs or search, there's a link to the FSM (factory service manual) on this site. Forget hanes and chiltons forget they even exist especially when you can get accurate information on your truck from the maker for free. Oh did I mention you can get it for free? Good luck.
Old 03-08-2008, 07:00 PM
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Well, I have learned a hell of a lot by reading through this forum...I still have a couple of questions...

So I called around to some pick n pulls locally and there seems to be some confusion regarding what third member is factory equipment.

1. I deciphered the vin and according to that it is a 4.875...(4.88). Suposedly these are rare factory ratios for a 95 AT with unknown stock wheel sizes. (I am also afraid that a prior owner changed gearing for whatever reason and if I go with what the vin says then Ill blow up my tranny when I use 4wd) My question now is how to tell what the ratio is in the front without pulling the rear out and counting (I will be working in the street so I cant leave things hangin...I need to get in and out). Can I use the old 'lift the front wheel off the ground and spin/count drive shaft revs' trick?

2.Assuming I find the correct third member...Does it just slide in and out?...is it that easy to install? Is there some tricky mechanics awaiting me? What exactly is the process once you undo the bolts to the housing? Is this on the easy scale of things?

3. With respect to the history of the problem...driving around on odd sized tires then further driving in 4wdHI...isnt there a chance that the damage has spread beyond the diff to the side gear shafts (?termanology?) themselves at the diff/axel junction? Especially since all that metal is swirling around in there.

4. I found a 4.88 for $325 It seems like I should be able to get one cheaper. Is there a special consideration regarding what years I can use and locking vs non locking 4wd models? Can I really use any 4.88 from any toyota truck?

Last edited by halebopp; 03-08-2008 at 07:20 PM.
Old 03-08-2008, 07:04 PM
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Oh, and I found a hanes manual in the jack storage rear cubby! I also checked out the FSM...I see what you guys mean.

Last edited by halebopp; 03-08-2008 at 07:11 PM.
Old 03-08-2008, 08:01 PM
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Yes !! You really can use any 4:88 from any Toyota truck,,,,as long as it's a Toyota 8". $325 seems a bit high to me too, but they are a popular ratio. Still a lot cheaper than havin yours repaired. Should be able to find a used one with a locker for that price. Keep watchin the for sale sections of the Toyota boards. Took me a month to find my first one.
The side gears are part of the diff. Changin the diff changes all moving parts except the axle's. Rear 3rd's are not hard to change. Most guys can do it in under 2 hours. Some guys do it in half an hour. No special tools. FSM or Haynes should explain how to change it. One manual is never enough. Each manual explains things a little different. You will find some manuals easier to understand.
Hope this helps.

turtle jim
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