danxthexman

Ok as of now i have a 92 extended cab 4x4 v6. It has absolutely no compression on the number 1 cylinder. Blown head gasket? Its going to cost me a ton just to fix this POS 3vze (head work =/ ). I recently found a 92 4x4 with a 4-banger in it. I know the 22re is a much better motor. I can probably get the truck for about 2200 and its in way better shape. Runs good but has a small exhaust leak...pretty sure from the manifold. It will also need a clutch, and has no AC.

So I am basically looking for advice here. Fix 3.slow? Or buy the 4 banger and fix it.

Also wanted to know if the AC stuff from the 3vze will bolt up the the 22re?

I appreciate all feedback, positive or negative. Thanks! =)

If anyone needs more info just ask.

87TurboYota

I would buy the 22re they are better engines. Do you have to have AC where you live? If so I'd just wait and try to find a 22re with AC.

If you want to fix the 3.0 I would get rid of it and do the 3.4 swap.

algranger

i think the guy selling it is here on yt he was asking about it's value yesterday he had an early 90's that neededa clutch i dont remember the year. that aside, i would definitely buy the 22re but you shouldtry and find out the problem, might make more money selling the truck with a good runnning 3.

danxthexman

I dont absolutely have to have ac here....but it sure is nice to have here in Vegas haha.

Ive done a little research into the 3.4 swap. Would be cool. But way expensive.

danxthexman

I figure its gonna be around 2 grand to fix the 3.0. And thats if it doesnt have a ring problem and its just the head thats messed up....no sense in machining one head ya know? The head gasket had already been replaced once back in 99 by toyota due to the recall.

abecedarian

Question-
buy running 22re for 2200
or
fix broken 3.0 for 2000??

Answer, buy 22re and sell 3.0 to finance installing AC on the 22re.
But everything between the evaporator (under the dash) to the condensor (behind the grill) should be the same. The only differences should be the compressor and the hoses from the compressor to the evaporator and from the condensor to the compressor.

danxthexman

Thing is...I gotta get the clutch done on the 22re...guessing thats gonna be a good amount? Clutch kits a couple hundred...then a few hundred in labor. Then I gotta swap the exhaust manifold too...another 60-100 there no?

thook

Clutch kit doesn't cost that much, IIRC. Have you considered doing the work yourself? The clutch, that is?

The 3.0 could be just a burned valve. Fairly common. Still means top end rebuild. But the bottom end may be clean enough for a while. Top end rebuilds are not that hard....really. And, 2k for head work? Hmmm...mine was less than that.

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

just my 2 cents...
bought my truck and the clutch gave up the ghost about 5 miles from the guys house... called toyota and they quoted me 850$ in parts and labor... instead paid 300 for a clutch kit, and had it installed at a buddy's shop for 150$... then about 2 months later, the truck wouldnt pass smog... ended up being the #3 exhaust valve was stuck open... with a complete top end rebuild i spent close to 1600$... so i guess your looking anywhere from 2000 - 2500 dollars... sorry bro, but theres no clean way out...

danxthexman

How hard is it to do the clutch? Is there a write up somewhere I could follow? I have never done a clutch, but Im sure I could do it with good direction. I figure like 5-700 just to get the heads done. Then I few hundred in misc other tensioners and pulleys. Then like 5-600 in labor. Also again, is there a write up on replacing the heads and head gasket? My guess is that its just a burnt valve. Truck has 116,000 miles.

mt_goat

I'd cut my losses with the 3.0, sell it or part it out, but don't rebuild it. But that's just me. Glad to be rid of mine, will never buy another one.

danxthexman

Haha yeah. But I figure I can sell it for more if it runs good. Not gonna get much for it as it sits now, even though it does run. Just no power. If I do the labor I would be ahead.

But I know the 22re's better. Just gotta read up on how to do the clutch. Trying to sell my bug at the moment to fund the purchase =)

danxthexman

Have a quick question about the clutch situation on the 22re. When I drove the truck it seemed to shift just fine. 4wd work fine. No grinding or noises. It just seems to engage way late. Pedal is almost all the way back and it slips a little. Does this mean clutch replacement? Or could it be something simpler?

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

you may just need to adjust the clutch... but from what you said, sounds like the clutch is shot...

abecedarian

"pedal is all the way back?"
does that mean you have your foot off the pedal and it has just a slight slippage?
it's possible that the clutch master cylinder and pedal aren't adjusted properly and are holding the clutch slightly released. maybe an adjustment would remedy the situation.
even if it doesn't, the clutch wear is just really starting to make itself known and this is the best time to catch it because the disc hasn't started to wear on the flywheel.

danxthexman

Basically what was happening is this. The truck shifts just fine...but when letting the clutch out the clutch pedal was almost all the way back. Then it seems like it would slip a little, RPM's would go up a sec, and then it would be ok.

abecedarian

so after the clutch fully engaged, no amount of throttle would cause it to slip?

danxthexman

Well it drove just fine when my foot was off the clutch. When letting my foot off the clutch and my other foot went to the gas was when the RPM's went up.

Sorry if what Im saying is very helpful. Im just now really getting into this whole motor thing.

forbiddenera

Clutch isn't too hard to do.. Just time consuming. I would recommend air tools to save some time, you're going to have to get a tranny jack or have a friend to stablize the tranny on a floor jack for removal.. That was about the hardest part of the whole job..

gte718p

If its going to the floor, but still engageing and disengaging properly it may just need ti be bleed.

I paid 150 something for my clutch from TG. I'll eventually get round to installing it. I think the slave cylinder is $80 from parts america.