pappatoad

well got it into shop today... got the pipe that was leaking replaced and a new cat...just to be safe...so I plan on retesting on monday. I can say for sure it seems to have more pep.. and I am not smelling anything... nor am I hearing the puf...puf ...of the exhaust leaks. I will post monday night after I retest.

thook

Oh, goodie.....<<<<clap, clap!>>>>>

pappatoad

well got it to emissions today and failed again. results of this test:
HC Failed 3.1612 readings 3.0000 Limit
CO Failed 120.2183 readings 25.0000 Limit* constantly getting worse everytime
CO2 N/A 298.5241 Readings No limits marked
NOx Passed .7388 readings 5.0000


So after adding new Cat and fixing all exhaust leaks... improved... but still running way too rich. Now only things I got left I can think of ... are the 02 Sensor (since not bought from toyota) and Injectors.. .they are 6 years old... and could be leaking. I took advice after the 1st failure from a friend to fill tank 3/4 with mid grade fuel then last 1/4 with E85.. said to burn it out fast since the E85 doesn't like plastic..my thought is leaving the fuel in after the first failure and not using it up could have damaged the injectors.

Any other ideas? I am about out... engine timing is spot on... no jumps... no vacuum leaks found... engine runs smooth... no sputtering or hesitations...so not sure.

Have not replaced plug wires yet just remembered.... last time replaced was 4 years ago with toyota wires.... but would this cause that much fuel to not be burned? Do I need to replace the coil too?
I am leaning on the injectors as I have noticed over the last week that I have used quite a lot a fuel

tried4x2signN

Plugs, heat range, check...


Different engine altogether, but it's a short read... Check it out.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota...some-help.html

bkubisht

I don't think plug wires are going to help your problem, you are still running rich. Check that coolant temp sensor. The ECU goes off a different one than the dash gauge, and the FSM has resistance specs for it at various temps. Try checking on truck, or take it to the kitchen and put it in HOT water.

Is there any chance when you are getting it tested, you drop it off, it sits for a while, and they are testing it cold?

Injectors were changed 6 years ago.... What color are your injectors? Verify here that they are the ones with correct flow for 22RE: http://www.toysport.com/webpages/tec.../injectors.htm

1990yota-pickup

dump about 5 bottles of injector cleaner into your tank..

while they are doing the test spray a entire can of carb/injector cleaner into the intake..
while i was out in california and doing smog test.. thats what mechanic would do to get my 89 camaro to pass.. you may need the same treatment..

your going to spend 40 bucks for all new injector orings for 22re from toyota..

run 92/93 oct. in your tank..

bkubisht

Sounds like you were running lean, he has the opposite problem. And how would the mechanic do that while in the cab maintaining 15 or 25 mph?

Again, if this was necessary then you may have been running lean causing high NOX. Higher octane will help this a bit. Last time I was in Colorado high country the octanes available were 85, 87, and 89. That was in Colorado Springs.

1990yota-pickup

honsetly i couldnt tell ya, and i really didnt even care.. i just had to get the ol camaro taken care with the dmv...

maybe the had it on the car lift or something ?

thats what the guy told me so..

tim a.

you should have listened to your toyota parts guy.You need a fuel pressure regulator.When they fail fuel pressure goes up,which in turn runs rich due to loss of fuel control.Thats a test question on the L7 emissions exam

1990yota-pickup

ya, i hear ya..

pappatoad

ok...I will look into that... I know a good yoda bone yard that might have them... from what the parts guy told me... it has two... I just bought new injectors today to try...but if it is the regulators... I will look at that and maybe save myself some money... injectors bought at Import Parts Warehouse in Denver.... they are actually reman Beck/Arnley injectors #155-0053 they have a dark blue/gray color. Now... does anyone have a good way to test the fuel pressure regulators? I want to be sure before buying more band-aid parts.....

pappatoad

this is probably a dumb question.. I have a FlexLite electric fan on it and since my infrared temp reader died I have not reset the temp switch for the fan again...I know it is coming on when the temp gauge on the dash is just above halfway. if I need to increase the temp that it turns on... does anyone know what temp I should set the sensor at to turn on the electric fan?

pappatoad

last test it sat for 10 minutes... I dont think it is running that cold... but my fan may be cooling it off as it is set low.... but I dont think that it would dump that much fuel into the system. I am going to look at the regulator tomorrow and see if it is bad... but as in an earlier post.. I need some suggestions on how to test it... I have spent the last 45 minutes staring at various google searches and finding nothing really useful. Could also use a temp range to set the electric fan at.

Flash319

Have you let the ECU sit bat disconected for a while after fixing all your stuff? There is a long and short term fuel trim that may need to be reset. This may explain the getting worse problem. When I have a hard time passing I check TPS, O2 and put on a new cat. Then I reset ECU and drive to work a few times then retest. This will reset the trim settings.

As you have stated I would make sure my vacuum lines are in the correct spot mainly the fuel regulator line. Also test your temp sensors as per the FSM

thook

Provided the vacuum line is routed correctly*, pinch off the line and disconnect it from the regulator. The idle should swing up because the regulator has shut creating higher fuel pressure. If there's no differenc in idle, this usually indicates a bad regulator as it means it's not responding to vacuum to begin with.

On the other hand, I can think of a couple of instances where "no response" could mean something else. For one, if the fuel return line was obstructed and always creating high pressure. Or two, the fuel pressure up switching valve is stuck open........again, creating high pressure. Not sure of a way to check for an obstruction, but if you don't notice an RPM change by disconnect the FPR from vacuum, you can try spraying ether into the filter end of the VSV, or connect the FPR directly to the manifold and run the disconnecting test that way.

Flash319.........I was under the impression that by disconnecting the ECU power supply it only erased short term fuel trim. But, the same thing is accomplished once the key is shut off.......relay no longer allowing power supply to the ECU? Long term, however, is stored in the ECU memory and remains even in the event power is disconnected, and that by disconnecting one only erases DTC memory? Not challenging, Flash. I read things, but I can also sometimes misunderstand what I read. Maybe there is a definite time factor involved, ie. power gone + definite time period = LTFT erased?

Note*: vac line runs from three way splitter on manifold, to VSV on valve cover....first port furthest away from air inlet, and then to the regulator from port closest to air inlet.

Flash319

You may be right about the long term trim thook. But I would think that there must be a way to reset it. I thought I read somewhere a time thing but could be wrong. I have found through my own experience that when I change the O2 sensor that I don't see much of an improvement until I do a reset of the ECU. Then drive for a while and the milage comes back after a few tanks.

thook

Well, from what I understand, I'd have to say it was the driving around for a while with a better functioning O2 unit that reset the programming. Have a look at this, if you like..........

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h44.pdf
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h58.pdf

sjb87PU

Have you checked your EGR

tim a.

Let me get these one at a time.EGR=NOx.We have a rich run condition,so not applicable.Correct me if I am wrong but this truck is pre obd2,so there is no fuel trim to adjust,just basic fuel and timing control.To test the regulator you should have a gauge in the fuel line,but I always use a handheld vac tester.If you cant feel the regulator pull lean{and hear it bog}you have found the problem.Not to be a peckerhead,but you picked a helluva time to stop throwing money at it.Dont get a used regulator,look at rockauto for new.The emmissions sysytems on these trucks is so basic that with a little knowledge anyone can fix them.Now a Cummins with a bad EGR pressure sensor is another story....

tim a.

Just to add to the above,if you had an injector problem your hc would be higher