TNRabbit

You GO girl--great job thus far!

I have a similar thread in here on my teardown for a blown head gasket: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/crap-head-gasket-giving-up-ghost-108156/

Unfortunately, I don't have another body to take pics while my hands are dirty! A word of advice; spring for the 1000 pack of rubber gloves & save yourself and lot of nicks/cuts & easy cleanup for a date that evening!

I agree on replacing the idler pulleys for the timing belt. Mine were both shot. The FSM gives a simple check for the tensioner to tell if it's OK or not.

It looks like you had a significantly leaking gasket where your EGR connected to the plenum...?

I'm sorry but I have to ask; WHAT THE HELL WAS ALL OVER YOUR INTAKE MANIFOLD?!?!?!? Looks like Squirrel Central...

Where did you get your engine hoist?

justinking060310

L33T35T - I cant tell you too much there - this truck was not running when i bought it so --

ebin - forgive me but the hyd tensioner - is that the one that is connected to the front of the water pump or a different one? -- I am going to be giving Ted at ENGNBLDR a call next week to order the rest of the rebuild kit and may just do the timing chain while i am there - would this be included with a replacement timing chain kit(i assume it would)

TNR - thanks for the compliment and tip - I have been watching your thread as well

the engine hoist pictures is from NorthernTool - got it with the balancer on sale for 129 a couple of months ago - (normally i think it goes for 199) and it was worked flawlessly thus far -- We are going to strain it this week when we unload a 700 lb Jointer(woodworking) with it and get it to the shop

Justin

TNRabbit

Can we assume it's your boyfriend taking the pics?? *Flirt*

TNRabbit

Do yourself a favor & look into a more robust alternator while you have everything apart; check out: http://www.alternatorparts.com/Toyot...tors.htm<br />

If you're planning on any type of audio system (separate amps, etc.) the wimpy factory 60 amp won't cut it.

Also, did you have to pay significant shipping on the engine hoist? (weighs 278 lbs!!!)

justinking060310

You could assume that, but my husband might be offended if I had my boyfriend taking the pictures!

EDIT*** I will tell you that diamonds and grease don't get along, therefor i take them off


and thanks for the correction on chains verses belts(i could say something else here, oh n/m)

also, does that pulley come come with the timing BELT kit?

and I probably should look at the alternator idea as I have a RF Power 1000 25 to Life amp going in once i get it running

Good Looking Out~
kat

TNRabbit

OOPS!

The belt tensioner & pulleys do NOT come with the engnbldr kit; they are dealer items. Pulleys are @ $40 each, tensioner I don't know.

I'm running a Kenwood Excelon 1,000 watt x1 amp into 1 ohm (1000 REAL watts, not the b/s wattage claimed by many) for my subs & a Kenwood 280 watt x2 for my main speakers (two Klipsch KB 3.1 bookshelf speakers). It pretty much beats the crap out of my poor ol' Yota alternator with no capacitor installed...my lights dim like a big dog everytime the bass hits. I've just ordered the 170 amp alternator.

Check Bumpin' Yota's posts for details on his kick@$$ incredible audio system! I think he's running @ 8,000 watts total!

jriebe

Oh come awwn man, just anty up and get a capacitor.

My buddy ran a 2200 watt system in his camaro with a 383 and 170 watt GM alternator and the thing still dimmed out everytime the bass hit.

Just be careful moving the capacitor around when it has a charge...lots of spark capability....

Jon

TNRabbit

I have a cap as well...

justinking060310

Back on topic --

here are some progress pictures for the day --

1. Can someone verify(see bottom picture) that i understand how to measure the rod thrust clearance - yes this is the first time i am breaking down a short block.

I am following the FSM on page EG2-99

2. If i understand correctly, if it is within spec the ROD is good? 3. if not I have to replace the ROD? 4. How do you know whether it is the crank or the rod that needs to be replaced?

I think mine are all good(they only move a fraction of a hair) but I am trying to follow directions explicitly for simplicity.

5. What will I see that will indicate that the crank needs to be turned?

6. If i am replacing the bearings, do i still need to plastigage them? short of the practice i do not think i need to...

7. does anyone know what size hose fits a rod bolt tightly(this will save me a trip)??

8. Is there a way around me buying a ridge reamer in order to get the pistons out of the top of the block while the crank is still in the block? The top of my cylinders is pretty rough ... If not, does anyone have a brand recomendation(keep in mind i only like to buy a tool once

Heres the pictures! Lots of Sludge, but no metal or anything else whatsoever







Also, If anyone has other considerations i should look at please let me know.

Kat

95RunnerSR5

is sludge holding your engine back? couldn't resist

breknraj

Katie,

I did the Permacool oil relocation on mine, and ended up siezing the engine due to the cheeseball hose connections failing (and I had just checked them a couple of weeks previously).

When I did my 3.4 swap, because of this, I did re-install the remote filter set up, but I re-did the system with full hydraulic hoses and fittings to prevent a repeat performance. 3,500 miles later, and so far, so good.

I put my filter adapter under the driver's side fender, forward of the wheel, on an angle to maintain good wheel clearance, but be able to put a catch pan under it easily. It is roughly level with the original location.

I like the new location (much easier to do a clean oil change), and the increased oil capacity, but make sure that you put hoses on that are actually up to the task!

justinking060310

BREK- thanks for the heads up -- i have been looking at getting downey's relocation kit -- I will probably go for braided stainless and AN fittings -- sorry to hear you had a motor go because of it -- I learned my lesson a while back too

mt_goat

Oh my, that's not looking too good. Unless you're going for a learning experence or something, I'd consider trashing the whole engine if it were me.

justinking060310

goat- i am replacing everything on it? why would you say that?

im going to go with engnbldrs master kit -- along with new oil pump, strainer, and everything else mentioned in the beginning of this post....

elaborate please

Bumpin' Yota

Inuendo about chains, whips, belts, handcuffs, AND engine teardown pics?! lol *drooool*

Kat - Im impressed! Not too many girls I know would even dirty their hands with an impact wrench much less know how to use it in the process of yankin the bellhousing from the block! Do you have a single sister?

I kinda scanned over the thread in the begining, but I do hope you are putting 1mm larger valves in it right now? Those plus a mild port and polish + headers will gain 30 rwhp in a 3vze. There are also 2 manufacturers of cams that will work to. Personally my HG popped 9 months back and I have a HUGE thread with an arseload of pics. I still think my engine has issues though as my rebuild was a top end jobbie only with 276,000 miles on the clock. Ill be doing a compression test to determine this on friday. I dread doing a FULL shortblock rebuild....*shudder* But yes, this is the PERFECT time to do some mods to gain power for the anemic 3.slow.

And THANK YOU for the pics! Ive always wondered if the 3vze had a windage tray and Im very glad it does!

Can you post pics of measuring the thrust rod clearance? I may end up going down this road myself. Also might want to investigate the option of a 3vzfe crank in our sister engine found in 90-91 v6 camrys. Rumor has it that they are forged and are a perfect match to the 3vze's crank.

Capacitors will NOT work in that situation. Even the largest 50Farad caps will discharge completely in under 1 second (being GROSSLY conservative) and then become an additional load to the system, thereby making the problem of dimming even worse. The BEST solution is a new, more powerful alternator and a 1/0ga big 3 upgrade. I was running a 190amp alt from www.hoalternators.com and was VERY pleased with it.

Are you bragging about my system again? lol Well it was 8800w rms, but im "down" to 7200w rms with a change in amp brands....but that number will soon double to 14,400w rms....my BIGGEST problem is finding a place to locate a total of 8 20" long amps (aside from the $$$ aspect), keep the rear seats functional and keep everything under the window line.

Im with Kat, what makes you say that, the sludge or the slightly burnt look of the oil on the rotating assembly?

mt_goat

Well I said that because it looks like you'd have to replace everything on it, but if you were planning on doing that anyway, that's cool. I was just going by the subject "Head gasket job" and this was looking like a lot more now. I'm no engine builder though, so take it with a grain of salt.

Lysmachia

Check out BoyleFuture Technology for your alternator....

Boyle Future Technology
12325 Locksley Lane, Auburn, CA 95602

phone: (530) 888-6290

(From TTORA)
Hope that helps! Looking forward to seeing what you do!

justinking060310

Bumpin - I have followed your thread very closely. I couldnt help but look at my short block sitting there that easy to pull and at the small cost (i figure a max of about $800) and not pull it out and the plan was to change the rear main but we all know how that works -- plus i wanted to make sure my pan was clean....

**EDIT** I have the O/S valves from ENGNBLDR and I also will shortly have my cams back from Johnny AKA Weasy2K -- I will be having the heads machined, ported, and polished(this is a street only 2wd truck, so i dont care to much about the low end) at the machine shop once the cams get here - They are only charging me 500 for all the machine work plus parts and they do all the local Toyota dealerships 3.0 work -- so I am confident with them. Also, as a teaser, I will put it on the truck on the Dyno for you when I am done - Local speed shop charges $75 for three pulls. Not that it will help most of you guys with a transfer case in the mix but hey, at least we will know whats getting to the ground.
**EDIT**

I will take pictures of measuring the clearances -- My indicator gauge is on the way.

I will be running some 1/0 for the big three and amp while i am in there

I am also going to research the alternator issue. I am curious if i have mine rebuilt, if there is any kind of warranty? is it proper etiquitte to clean my alternator before sending it to them? lol



GOAT - yea, that was the "original" idea -- lol -- funny how deep this goes...

Just to throw this out there, is there another crank out there that we can use SIMPLY as a "stroker crank" ? We made a 4.6 stroker in our Jeep with a 258 crank in a 4.0 block.... Curious if Toy has a similar situation?

Kat

PS - some pictures of me sandblasting -- ahhh i still have sand everywhere and look - I used protection

Ganoid

I had the 100 amp mobi-arc alternator upgrade and it lasted about a year. It never really had much usable output at idle either. My latest attempt at cheap power is a GM CS144 out of a 97 Caddy Eldorado rated at 140 amps (over 100 of which are available at idle). The only modification I made to the alternator was to remove the screw's on the case and rotate the back 180* for better access to the wires. This thing is a beast compared to the Toyota or even the modified Toyota alternators. I have had no problems keeping up with my warn 9k winch running only 1 red top optima. Total cost with no core was only like $130 at auto-zone with a lifetime warranty.

It fits with very little modifications and a 2" longer belt.

justinking060310

Ganoid - is that the toyota pulley on there?forgive me for not recognizing it as mine is under a pile of parts not to mention it is at another location...
I like that idea a lot - It will work well with my blue top Optima

I am going to put up my notes for the night for other peoples future reference...

oil relocation part numbers:
$19.99 summit ----permacool 2791 - spin on adapter 3/4-16" thread (comes with 2 plugs) --- 1/2 NPT ports

$22.99 summit******permacool 1701 (left side ported) 1/2 NPT ports 3/4-16" threads
not using -- permacool 1711 (right side ported) 1/2 NPT ports use with Fram PH8a or equiv filters

$20 summit ---- i will need (4) 1/2"NPT to -6 an male adapters 4.95 each from summit
$13.12 I will need (4) straight -6an female to hose connections 3.28 each used from musclemotorsports.com
$12.30 I will need (2) 3 foot sections of -06an stainless steel 2.05 a foot(used) from musclemotorsports.com

I am trying to determine the size of the tranny ports in order to get my AN fittings ordered at the same time. I also am going to measure the length of hose needed to reach from the trans to radiator tomorrow. Anyone see a problem with putting a hose clamp on stainless steel hose at the radiator end? not my favorite idea but that is what i have to work with.

I am going to order an electric autometer water temp gauge and wire it with a toggle so i can switch between trans temp and water temp(redundant, yes i know)....

I know a lot of this is useless to you guys but I know i would like to be able to pull one or two posts and get most of the info i am looking for, so i am sure someone in the future will appreciate it(i hope) - (Snapon and Bumpin's threads come to mind for me)

Katie