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issues with 22re idle, violent misfires, and backfiring.

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Old 08-10-2014, 06:27 PM
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issues with 22re idle, violent misfires, and backfiring.

I know this has been covered and ive done alot of research on it. Just mainly looking to tell my story and findings and receive input on what my next step should be. This may be a long read.

This all started about 6 months ago. I was a GM mechanic and I took on the occasional side job. A friend of a friend brought me 92 pickup with the 22re and 5spd, A/c, PS, PB. It was leaking coolant into cylinder 4 and I was to replace the headgasket. I drove it and it ran great besides the occasional miss and high idle. Well as I tore into it I found it had a heap of problems. There was no timing chain guides left and the chain had nearly ate plum through the cover. The high idle turned out to be bad injector seals and 1 injector missing the tip. Also found number 4 exhaust valve burned badly. After I broke the news to the owner he decided to not spend the money required on a truck with 620k miles on it. So he signed the title over to me and this is where I am at.

I tore it all down and dropped the head off at the machine shop and had it reworked to factory specs. I cleaned the bottom end to rid it of all the guide debris, nearly needed a shovel to get it all out of the pan, I think this was the second timing set this motor had eaten but the first time anyone bothered to drop the pan, as evidenced by the warped forward portion of the flange. I replaced the timing set and cover, new oil pump, new water pump. Installed reworked cylinder head, new fuel filter, new flamethrower injectors, and new NGK plugs. Now all this took quite some time to do with life and all and a career change. Well I finished it up this past saturday and I cannot get it to idle, its missing on multiple cylinders, and occasionally backfires through the intake. If I hold my foot to the floor I can manage 2500 rpm and 10 miles an hour while riding the clutch. It will stall right out with a load, even with the pedal floored.

Here is what I have and have not done. Correct me if my presumptions are wrong as I am kind of a newb when it comes to toyotas, especially their electronics.

Dry compression check all between 160-180
Tested for injector pulse with noid lites, all firing
Checked for spark on all 4, fire is there but is a little weak with the spark color closer to a light yellow orange, - thinking coil is week but it was fine when I parked it 6 months ago.
Double, triple, and quadruple checked ignition timing after realizing #1 needed to be at 5* and not 0* like I had originally stabbed the distributor
I have not messed with the TPS, CSI, or AFM, since they all worked when I started this project and none of them were removed.
All spark plugs come out semi wet and black after about 5 mins of run time

There is no CEL but its missing bad enough that you think the motor is going to self destruct. It does smooth out some around 1300 rpms. It had about 5 gallons of stale fuel in it so I added 12 fresh gallons and a triple dose of some fuel restore hoping it was low volatility of the fuel, but no change. I replaced all the ground wires on the engine while I was assembling it and now have 5 between engine and chassis. Right now it will only run with the timing at about 28*.

With all this said, would I be safe to assume that its as easy as needing a new coil? Do you think it is a combination of the lower volatile fuel mixed with the semi weak spark that is giving me these symptons? Is the spark just getting quenched leaving my plugs wet? Or should I be looking for a hanging injector or CSI even though the injectors are brand new? How picky are these 22res about the intensity of the spark? My 88 GMC 1500 with the 5.7 will run on just about anything.

Sorry for the long post, just ready to get this project off my shoulders and on the road as my DD.
Old 08-11-2014, 04:17 PM
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It's no fun when a guy put's all that work and engine doesn't want to run. As a mechanic myself, I feel your pain. First thing that came to mind that you haven't mentioned is the timing chain. Did you check to see if the crank and cam are still lined up where they should be? If you say that it only run's at 28* on #1, that's pretty far off. It sounds like the symptoms of a timing chain that jumped a tooth.
Old 08-11-2014, 06:40 PM
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Timing set is all new.

Its fuel related. I can spray gas through the throttle body and it runs like a champ with the correct ignition timing. I seem to have plenty of fuel by volume but not pressure. Im leaning towards the FPR. But I am unsure of a good way to test this.

Also it runs fine under its own power for the first few seconds. Which im guessing is because its running off the CSI.
Old 08-14-2014, 02:52 PM
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Working on getting fuel pressure checked after I finishing rounding up parts for a pressure tester. Anyone else have any other ideas? Do I possibly need to adjust AFM for the new injectors?
Old 08-14-2014, 06:11 PM
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These trucks do not like vacuum leaks. Are all of your hoses routed correctly? I had one last week backfiring and I had knocked a hose loose.
Old 08-16-2014, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Terrys87
These trucks do not like vacuum leaks. Are all of your hoses routed correctly? I had one last week backfiring and I had knocked a hose loose.
To be honest, no. But I was pretty careful in making it where they would only go back a certain way. I cannot seem to find the correct vacuum diagram for my engine either.
Old 08-19-2014, 06:08 AM
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I'm in the same situation the only thing i have done that you haven't is the TPS, with no change.
Old 08-23-2014, 10:09 PM
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Man,I feel for you. I was mr. Good wrench for 12 years before going to a Nissan shop. As you probably know, if it's backfiring out the exhaust, it's probably ignition related. Also, the old gas concerns me. If it was mine, I'd drain the tank, clear the lines and put on a new coil and wires. I can't tell you how many times I've crossed plug wires even though I was sure they were right. It never hurts to go back to basics. Good luck
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