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Inspired to Dive Into 3VZE!

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Old 08-10-2006, 06:51 PM
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Thats A Lot Of Work, Cant Wait To Here How It Turns Out, Buy The Way Has Anyone Ever Had Problems With Their Spark Plugs Working Thier Way Out, Unthreading?? Im A Mechanic And Have Torqued Them Properly A Couple Of Times W/ Different Torque Wrenches To Be Sure. The Threads Are Not Damaged Or Stretched. I Havent Heard Of This Problem W/ The Yotes But Maybe Im Missing Something. Its A 92 Truck 3.0.
Old 08-10-2006, 07:39 PM
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What plugs are you using? Plugs are supposed to have a crushing washer that isn't that great after the inital torquedown. I haven't had that problem with my Yota, but I had a Nissan p/u that they worked loose on all the time. I also currently have a 2000 Honda Civic EX I bought with 91k on the ODO. I couldn't figure out why it was so danged anemic (automatic tranny) until I found ALL the plugs were loose & THREE of them had backed out at least a full turn and a half! Runs MUCH better now!! hahahaha.
Old 08-11-2006, 08:55 AM
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Man, if I NEVER have to pull another starter, it'll be too soon! By far the most difficult part I've ever had to remove/install, even considering the water pump! If you ever have to pull one, TAKE OFF the exhaust heat shield (I didn't remove it to take the starter off but had to pull it to get it back in) and invest in a LONG (24") ratchet extension! My big darned hands didn' help any, either.

As a special note, the EGR pipe that runs into the plenum was COMPLETELY plugged with black crap. I wonder if it was even functional. I'm getting excited to see what difference this will all make with the engine performance!

Also, I'd definitely recommend sending your injectors out to:

http://www.witchhunter.com/index.htm

for cleaning as it is so dang cheap you can't do them yourself for less! (the grommets, o-rings, & seals cost almost as much as having this place do them!) Plus, you get a cool before/after flow analysis! They also check the electrical viability of the injector & electrosonically clean them.
Wish I'd known this before.... ....duh!

Pics tonight!

BTW, here's what they do in the injector cleaning process: http://www.witchhunter.com/process2.htm

How the heck can they do all this for only $15 each?

Last edited by TNRabbit; 08-11-2006 at 08:59 AM. Reason: add info
Old 08-12-2006, 01:57 PM
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thanx for the info, what plugs do you run, i have been running a/c delco's
Old 08-12-2006, 05:12 PM
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I had regular Denso's before but I just put in NGK Iridiums. I'm working on posting the latest pics but since I'm on dial-up, they take FOREVER to load....
Old 08-12-2006, 06:13 PM
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Regarding the plugs working loose....It happens on some of the 3.0's and skips others. I've never had them work loose but a few of the guys on here have had them loosen up and explode out. According to my favorite dealership, the plugs should be installed with oiled threads...no anti-seize compound, as is used on the 3.4.
Old 08-12-2006, 06:32 PM
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Hey TNRabbit, so you are tuning up your rig, thats nice so how far have you done so far?, a mechanic would of fix all the above work in a day? ok about your Iridiums plugs would they burn very hot inside the cylinder? I have use Autolite XP and they work fine but a friend said that it will burn hotter inside so its best if use the stock NGK V-Power? I am thinking of getting those type of plugs too, but I would'nt want that $12.00 plug to damage my engine so I'll just stick with the V-power for now (don't listen to GS, use what ever you want), Oh and you should use some spray paint from Plasti-Kote (Aluminum) on your manifold it look nicer, so GL man.

:complain: But I'll lookup for that information on those spark plugs if it make any effect on these engine.
Old 08-13-2006, 07:51 AM
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OK, finally got the pics loaded up, plus a short video at the bottom!

Here's the starter all back together:


AISIN hubs installed:


Fuel rails installed:


New distributor cap & wires:


Fuel Filter:


Oh @h!t! don't forget the coolant hoses that connect to the TB; they are a PITA to get on afterwards!


And here's pics of all the hose connections for anyone who, like me, didn't label them when they took them off (I AM a dumbass!)--I was overconfident in my ability to remember!:





And here's the finished engine:


Last but not least, a short video of the first startup/idle:

Click here to watch First-Idle


(Guardian_Saint: BTW, *eff u*--I did this as I had time after work, thank you very much...) [img]images/smilies/flame.gif[/img]

Images hosted by PutFIle:
Upload Video and Images - Putfile

Last edited by TNRabbit; 08-13-2006 at 07:58 AM. Reason: add Putfile credit
Old 08-13-2006, 02:54 PM
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I posted an O2 sensor question in a new thread (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/o2-sensor-permanently-rusted-92409/).

Also, I'm still having the same issues that prompted me to go into the engine in the first place:

It ran good except for a significant miss that occured only above @ 2k and below 4k rpms. Idle is rock solid and there are no misses above 4k. 2300k is the worst, with a lot of buuuu-bubuuuuuu-bububububuuuuuuu going on.

Also, it appears to be experiencing some type of airflow starvation @ 5100+ rpms (!) at full throttle. Half throttle continues to climb, but if I put my foot in it above 5k it "bogs" down like someone shoved a grapefruit in the intake....?????!!?

I DO NOT customarily rev to these extremes, but in trying to find out what my first problem was I found the second one... ;-)

I suspected the TPS, but it checked out on an ohmeter and it is properly adjusted.

Also, the idle is a little high (1k rpms+) and won't come down below that with the Idle Air Control screw on the TB....any suggestions?

Last edited by TNRabbit; 08-14-2006 at 03:37 AM. Reason: typos; add sentence
Old 08-15-2006, 05:20 PM
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Here's the final hurdles:










This is after a week of PB Blaster & steel brushing! Next up: DREMEL!

Last edited by TNRabbit; 08-15-2006 at 05:21 PM. Reason: add text
Old 08-22-2006, 05:13 PM
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AHAH!! I finally figured out the reason for my perpetual miss between 2k & 4k rpms--HERE is the culprit:





VSV hose had a pretty significant hole in it. What a PITA to find! it was on the bottom of the hose where it attaches to the VSV. Glad I got THAT sorted out!

Still awaiting an opportunity to cut the O2 Sensor bolts off...
Old 08-23-2006, 06:32 AM
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BIG difference on the drive to work this morning; it was MUCH more responsive & had more power at a lower rpm than before...

Now if I can just figure out why it's "bogging" at 5400 rpms, I'll be SET!
Old 08-23-2006, 09:52 AM
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are you sure the 3.0 is supposed to be revved up that high? could it possibly just be the rev limiter/fuel cut?
Old 08-23-2006, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by yota_krazy
are you sure the 3.0 is supposed to be revved up that high? could it possibly just be the rev limiter/fuel cut?
Rev limiter doesn't kick in until a little over 6k. It will continue higher if I am at half throttle but when I have my foot all the way in it, it is as though the intake tube is collapsing or something similar (it isn't, I checked).

I pulled the air filter and when I listen to the VAFM with it pulled up where I can see it, at those rpms it makes a godawful sound that is ear-splitting! I'm wondering if it is getting some sort of high-speed oscillation....?

NO, I do not customarily rev to those speeds! But it didn't do this in the past...
Old 08-24-2006, 02:30 AM
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Wow; I can already tell the difference in fuel consumption with the vacuum leak fixed! Power is NOTICEABLY better...I may get another speeding ticket!
Old 08-24-2006, 04:52 AM
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Originally Posted by yota_krazy
are you sure the 3.0 is supposed to be revved up that high? could it possibly just be the rev limiter/fuel cut?
Yes. I took my 3vze that high and higher (redline is 5,800rpm) every day of its long, 276,000 mile life. I doubt any GM engine could do that!
Old 08-25-2006, 02:47 AM
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CRAP! My exuberence with the rpms may have backfired; I'm getting serious pre-detonation @ 4800 rpms under load (3rd gear or higher)...any suggestions as to what this might be? I wondered at first if I'd blown some chunks of carbon off of something and they had collected in a cylinder. It sounds like this is only happening in one cylinder...

???
Old 08-25-2006, 03:15 AM
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ive been scanning and not reading, did you check your timing? You may have to back down to 10* BTDC. Also what is the heat ranges on those plugs?
Old 08-25-2006, 03:25 AM
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I've never moved the timing (should be 10*). Plugs are standard heat range for the 3VZE. This problem just appeared out of nowhere.
Old 08-25-2006, 03:38 AM
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Let's assume you're right about the pinging occurring in only one cylinder. If so, it could be a dirty/fouled injector, carbon buildup, timing or bad plug. Try filling up the tank with some good Chevron with Techron, add some more Techron yourself and try a Seafoam/Marvel Mystery Oil treatment. It also could be the lovely 3.0 crossover pipe reducing any scavenging effect at those RPMs.

And I rarely touch 4000 rpm. The 3.0 has a reputation for throwing rods in addition to blowing headgaskets. It's a great truck engine....good low end grunt, but mine has no power 4000 up, which is fine since I drive on the low end. I get 19 mpg down there.


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