edeslaur

This is one of those "You don't know what to ask when you don't know anything." threads.

I've been trying to search for ways to cut my fenders, but then create the factory-style lip in a way that doesn't damage the paint. I watched the Eastwood fender rolling video and got the "heat it up to 120-150 degrees" for the paint.

But I am NOT looking for the Eastwood fender rolling tools, I actually need to cut a few inches out of the back of the front fenders, then bend it over like it comes from the factory.

I found something about hand seamers, but I'm not finding any detailed "how-to" that goes with it.

This is the closest I've found and is pretty good for eHow (which is usuall pretty lame).

Thanks!

85gijunk4x4

i'm not sure how close your tires are to the bottom on the fender, but i'm guessing not close...you probably cut the fender to clear larger tires right?

but anyway, if its close, drive real slow and get a buddy to stick a baseball bat inbetween the tire and fender....

91muddog

x2 on the baseball bat

edeslaur

I'm actually going to cut the lip entirely out, so there won't be a need to roll the fender edge after I'm done.

I'm going to cut them similar to what this fellow did, but I want to finish it off with a lip instead of a straight edge.

The bat trick won't work.

When I'm done, I want a 90 degree lip just like the factory, but to the new, bigger opening.

SoCal

You want the lip like factory I assume you have some good metal working skills. So a torch and a good hammer.

xxxtreme22r

what size tire are you trying to clear? 35's? Cus my 33 12.50's clear on stock suspension and a tbar crank with just flattening the pinch welds and cutting the lower valence support by the bumper caps.

slacker

iTrader: (1)

old school way is with a hammer and dolly , and a streatcher shrinker . this definatly takes skill to master , or .. if you have a welder and a bit of sheet metal weldind skills , you can just weld a lip on


.

edeslaur

Blazeland extended arms with 285/75r16 on stock steelies (took some mods). They hit in the back when compressed and turned because they stick 3" further out. They fit better before the lift. LOL Dont get me wrong, the lift is worth it.

I just want to make the fender safe against cut fingers, but without cheap plastic trim n And look good too. . Carved out my fenders on my 88 K5 for 36s, but I had some nice aluminum trim that came with that covered the cuts. There's about 3+ inches out of the back of the fender.

Here I want to be even more sano.

85gijunk4x4

1. heat, and metal working tools

2. good set of sheet metal pliers and a steady hand

3. throw some tires that barely fit on there and slide a baseball bat in between.

4. instead of cutting the bottom of the fender, cut out the center and weld the bottom to the top

5. just find some fender flares to put on where the actual flare should be and pretend that the fender is flared.

6. French wheel

scuba

http://ttora.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177902

rattlewagon

I used a pair of pliers and an hammer. Haha. Not the straightest and defiantly cracked the paint a little, but it worked. 2-3 inches removed front and rear.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

^^easy way and good method.
Another good idea is to bend& weld a tube along the seam. I think Volcom did it on his 4Runner

yotarover

if you have access, use a english wheel . see the highschool kiddies, just now in college doing it all the time

85gijunk4x4

oops....got my countries mixed up

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Lots of pics front and rear on my WabFab FaceBook page.
Link under avatar
<------

:wabbit2:

BlazeN8

I cut the bottom rear portion of the fender with a jig saw and then used a cresent wrench to fold a new lip. I also hammered the firewall body seam flat. With Blazeland Long arms and a 2" body lift, I clear 35's.

edeslaur

Good tip. I've seen some of Volcom's threads, chasing it down!

edeslaur

Yep, lotsa pics. Want to know what paint you used on those hubs, look great.

edeslaur

Oooh.... 35s are in the future. Me likey this tip.

edeslaur

Yeah, like that, but pretty.