Guardian_Saint

What? $2500 for HG repair? Should of buy mine... I would of sale my engine for $2,000, just for you...

Squiddy

Uh huh! The $2500 was for a complete upper rebuild, basically -- HG, valves, polish heads, timing belt, water pump, etc. However given the rotten head bolt holes mentioned above, we are on to a reman engine from ATK. Pictures to follow when in...maybe I'll make a calender of it.

Squiddy

New engine in! Long block plus needed parts plus labor for 4400. PURRS like a kitten. Had no idea how damn loud the old one had gotten. Only issue, aside from all that MobilOne I'll be swapping out over the coming year, is the A/C doesn't seem to be working (whole deal has 2 year warrantee, so covered)

flashkl

Sweet! I am very very happy for you. I'm waiting for the oil seal for behind the oil pump, then I can put all my shenanegans back together....

Squiddy

Thanks

abecedarian

darn... wish I'd have been paying attention to this thread....
option D- helicoil and use studs instead of head bolts....
oh well.

anyhow, why the mobil 1? You can break it in with delo....

Squiddy

No, the issue with the helicoil and studs was that while it might well work, he said he wouldn't/couldn't guarantee the work. Interestingly, he said he's also seen 4 toyota blocks over the past few months with the same thing...and yeah, nothing special about mobile 1, the mechanic just partial to synthetic.

abecedarian

The mech. just doesn't have confidence in his work. Helicoil and studs is VERY different than helicoil and normal head bolts. But I digress....
Mobil says something to the effect of "if it needs broken in, worn down, it will do so regardless of regular or synthetic oil"... and Redline recommends breaking in with regular petroleum based oil and switching to synth after 1000 miles.
One synth dealer says one thing, another says something different.... Call me hesitant, but when one says 'use our oil to break in the engine' and another says 'use regular oil', and the difference between the two amounts to costing two if not three times as much...
... you're happy, no?

I don't mean much by what I write, but just think about it... when dealing with a 20 year old engine design, new tech isn't always the best thing for an old engine.

Squiddy

1500 miles later, engine running great. Issue now is following. My aftermarket oil pressure gauge is pegged at 100 all the time. Wires/leads/grounds seem fine. Sending unit is in the most forward hole in the block (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ensors-153167/). In past pressures were OK, tho perhaps a bit high -- was suggested this was because the sender was right near the oil pump. So may be able to fix by moving to "next hole back," but would appreciate thoughts.

TNRabbit

I find it odd the block won't hold the bolts; NEVER heard of this before....??

Squiddy

Well, I have seen on other threads similar issues. I think that when the first head gasket was done, the Yota dealership did a sloppy job --> not torqued enough --> loose --> stripping. Either that or it had been blown for a while and bolts got a bit loose?