Going on for 4 months and still havnt figured it out. any ideas
01-20-2009, 02:50 PM
#21
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I look at it again when its a bit warmer but from what i have read and even in the fsm that the throttle open .5 mm it should read less than 2.3k ohm. and that at .8 mm it should for sure read open. but what i got was that it went open as soon as i opened the throttle i meen even just taping it open. but the only way I can be sure is if I pull the TB and unless some one out there has an insolated garage i could use then it will be a while before i can do that.
01-24-2009, 12:41 PM
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just pulled the throttle body. and I am having trouble unscrewing the tps screws, any advise? I dont want to strip them. also, I am now convinced the sensor is shot but still want to loosten it up to make sure.-
01-24-2009, 01:05 PM
#26
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Maybe try tapping the screwdriver lightly with a hammer as you apply counter clockwise pressure. When you get it loose and or replace the sensor you might be interested in this from a fellow YotaTech member:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...S_ScrewKit.jpg
Hope you get it figured out.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...S_ScrewKit.jpg
Hope you get it figured out.
01-26-2009, 07:02 AM
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ok so Im going to break it down so I can include every detail.
The Problem:
First the engine will not rev under load past 2200 rpm.
It idles(in park) at about 1500 rpm, when I put it in drive it goes down to 1k rpm.
when the engine is cold and I put it in park I cant get it past 1500 rpm. If i try pushing the gas past that or all the way to the ground the needle on the tack starts jumping anywhere from under 1k to as high as 2000 rpm. at the same time a kind of popping or backfiring can be heard coming from the engine compartment.
When the engine warms up I can get it up to the 2200 rpm under load but only when I find a "sweet spot" in the throttle, that is if i push on the gas lightly and to a certain point. if I have it in park and find this "sweet spot" I can get it up to 5k rpm If I push the gas passed this "sweet spot" the rpms go down and I start to lose speed. needless to say I cant drive very fast and I am getting horrible gas millage 10 mpg or less.
The Problem:
First the engine will not rev under load past 2200 rpm.
It idles(in park) at about 1500 rpm, when I put it in drive it goes down to 1k rpm.
when the engine is cold and I put it in park I cant get it past 1500 rpm. If i try pushing the gas past that or all the way to the ground the needle on the tack starts jumping anywhere from under 1k to as high as 2000 rpm. at the same time a kind of popping or backfiring can be heard coming from the engine compartment.
When the engine warms up I can get it up to the 2200 rpm under load but only when I find a "sweet spot" in the throttle, that is if i push on the gas lightly and to a certain point. if I have it in park and find this "sweet spot" I can get it up to 5k rpm If I push the gas passed this "sweet spot" the rpms go down and I start to lose speed. needless to say I cant drive very fast and I am getting horrible gas millage 10 mpg or less.
The clue here is that You're getting a "popping or backfiring" under load.
It's popping thru the intake because the fuel mix is LEAN.
Your mechanic checked the FP and said it was OK......Did He check it under load?
Heres a simple way to cut the diagnosis in half, since You have an automatic trans. Start engine, place trans in drive, hold brake down firmly, apply light throttle untill motor begins to pop, take a can of carburator cleaner and spray into AFM. You are adding fuel this way.
If motor smooths out, it's lean, if it does'nt You have an IGN problem.
Report back.
Kiwi
02-03-2009, 03:33 PM
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well the damn thing is undrivable now. i was messing with somthing while the engine was on and noticed that 2 of the spark plug wires are loose at the cap, one is arcing, i found all this out in fact by getting shocked. anyway seems like I should fix this before i try anything else.
Last edited by joehill; 02-03-2009 at 03:41 PM.
02-03-2009, 03:51 PM
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All your problems remind me of the Corvette I had before this, all kinds of weird running/electrical issues. Got rid of it for my Toyota. All I can say is good luck!
02-07-2009, 02:09 PM
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a quick update on the spark plugs. I finally took them all out, getting to that #5 was a beast. all the plugs look the same. they all have a black almost soot liked coating on them. looks pretty thick. ill be putting in the new ones in tomorrow.
03-21-2009, 12:55 PM
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Well its been a while since I have done anything to the 4 runner. Since I changed the plugs and wires it has been sitting in my garage. I purchased a 95 toyota pickup with a 22re engine. its a bare bones truck but it works. Still have the runner. Today since its a beautiful day i decided to pull out the runner and tool around. I was expecting to have to jump it to get it started. but it started right away and It drives fine. like really fine. engine rev's, can get it to highway speeds and every thing.
I dont think the problem is solved, I still think it was weather related. now that i do have a working car and the weather is nice I can go back to trying to track down the cause of the problem. any ideas what could be so affected by cold weather that would cause the runner to run the way it did?
I dont think the problem is solved, I still think it was weather related. now that i do have a working car and the weather is nice I can go back to trying to track down the cause of the problem. any ideas what could be so affected by cold weather that would cause the runner to run the way it did?
03-21-2009, 01:12 PM
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Did you ever get the TB off and the TPS adjusted to spec? When I adjusted my TPS i stripped one of those screws, a trip to the stealer had a replacment in hand...
IIRC black on the plugs means you are running rich/ sign of unburned fuel.
IIRC black on the plugs means you are running rich/ sign of unburned fuel.
Last edited by Jay351; 03-21-2009 at 01:15 PM.
03-21-2009, 03:19 PM
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yeah i changed the tps and at the time there was no change in the condition of the truck. as I said the I drove it today and its running fine, like it did before I had the problem which makes me think it might have somthing to do with the cold. but I have no idea how the cold could affect it in such a way.
03-21-2009, 05:06 PM
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don't look a gift horse in the mouth. 
but if it's weather / temp related, only a few things respond to temperature: the coolant temp sender, the air temp sensor, the EGR temp sensor, the cold start time switch and the idle-air-bypass / auxiliary-air-valve under the TB.
but if it's weather / temp related, only a few things respond to temperature: the coolant temp sender, the air temp sensor, the EGR temp sensor, the cold start time switch and the idle-air-bypass / auxiliary-air-valve under the TB.
03-21-2009, 09:48 PM
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don't look a gift horse in the mouth.
but if it's weather / temp related, only a few things respond to temperature: the coolant temp sender, the air temp sensor, the EGR temp sensor, the cold start time switch and the idle-air-bypass / auxiliary-air-valve under the TB.
but if it's weather / temp related, only a few things respond to temperature: the coolant temp sender, the air temp sensor, the EGR temp sensor, the cold start time switch and the idle-air-bypass / auxiliary-air-valve under the TB.
I will be looking into all those things you mentioned to make sure they are up to spec.
03-21-2009, 10:41 PM
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Not sure what you need but if you find anything you need i might have it..
I just took out my 3.0 and im trying to part it out...
Be willing to send you most of the things abe listed for just shipping..
I just took out my 3.0 and im trying to part it out...
Be willing to send you most of the things abe listed for just shipping..
04-11-2009, 05:24 PM
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Well as it has contined to get warmer I have noticed a trend in the condition I am trying to figure out. that is that as it gets progressively colder it gets progressively worse. so that at 60 degrees the engine runs fine at 45 degrees it runs better than dead of winter but not 100%, lets say I can get it to 5krpm and then bellow freezing i have the problem described above.
since i replaced the VAFM i can only assume that the intake air temp sensor is fine. but ill check that in the morning when its still in the 30's.
as far as i can tell the TB on my truck does not have a idle-air-bypass / auxiliary-air-valve attached under it. there is a coolant bypass. but i can look again.
and i will continue to look at those other things. esp the ECT as I have read that it plays a main role in how the ecm calculates spark timing and all that jazz. i will continue to keep this updated till I solve it. I have just been waiting for it to get a bit warmer. and tomorrow will be a perfect day.
since i replaced the VAFM i can only assume that the intake air temp sensor is fine. but ill check that in the morning when its still in the 30's.
as far as i can tell the TB on my truck does not have a idle-air-bypass / auxiliary-air-valve attached under it. there is a coolant bypass. but i can look again.
and i will continue to look at those other things. esp the ECT as I have read that it plays a main role in how the ecm calculates spark timing and all that jazz. i will continue to keep this updated till I solve it. I have just been waiting for it to get a bit warmer. and tomorrow will be a perfect day.
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