Getting ready to do the HG repair, checklist
#1
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Getting ready to do the HG repair, checklist
Well with the encouraging words from you guys I decided to try a HG repair on my own to save some money and also gain knowledge about working on my truck and autos in general. So, I'm getting ready to order all the parts required for my head gasket repair. While cruising some of the previous threads on the matter, I've read that replacing these other parts would be a good idea. My truck is a 93 4runner 3.0 with auto transmission. 187K miles on the odometer.
Water pump
Timing belt
Knock sensor wire-Is it necessary to replace the knock sensor too?
Head bolts
Am I missing anything that should be replaced or serviced? I read that putting headers in at this time is a good idea, I'm still researching the topic.
Water pump
Timing belt
Knock sensor wire-Is it necessary to replace the knock sensor too?
Head bolts
Am I missing anything that should be replaced or serviced? I read that putting headers in at this time is a good idea, I'm still researching the topic.
#2
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i'm just about done with the HG job on my 93. get the top-end gasket kit from engnbldr. good deal, quality parts.
you should look into replacing the timing idler pulleys and tensioner. it would also be wise to replace all the crush washers in the fuel system and if you haven't gotten your injectors tested/cleaned in a long time, now is the time to do it.
you'll probably come across more parts to replace on the way but this list is a good start.
you should look into replacing the timing idler pulleys and tensioner. it would also be wise to replace all the crush washers in the fuel system and if you haven't gotten your injectors tested/cleaned in a long time, now is the time to do it.
you'll probably come across more parts to replace on the way but this list is a good start.
#3
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The knock sensor is somewhat expensive to replace. I did not replace mine and it seems to work just fine at 210K miles. As I broke my brittle plastic knock sensor wire connector locking clip.. I did replace just the wire.
In additons to Blurr's good suggestion...
Consider replacing your valve guide seals if you're using much oil between changes. You'd have to take your cams and valve lifters out to do this, but once you've taken the first valve out, the rest are easy repeats. I had been using some oil prior to replacing my headgasket and having my valves done including new seals. I believe that the new seals are what corrected the oil consumption.
Replace all the nuts to your exhaust manifold, EGR connection to the manifold and the PAIR Reed valve connection to the manifold. Use quality parts. Consider replacing the mating studs as well.
In additons to Blurr's good suggestion...
Consider replacing your valve guide seals if you're using much oil between changes. You'd have to take your cams and valve lifters out to do this, but once you've taken the first valve out, the rest are easy repeats. I had been using some oil prior to replacing my headgasket and having my valves done including new seals. I believe that the new seals are what corrected the oil consumption.
Replace all the nuts to your exhaust manifold, EGR connection to the manifold and the PAIR Reed valve connection to the manifold. Use quality parts. Consider replacing the mating studs as well.
#4
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Thanks guys. I have the head gasket set and bolts coming from engbldr.
For the water pump, timing belt, tensioner, and idler should I be going with Toyota parts or will these ebay specials be good?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWA:IT&ih=012
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...141374523&rd=1
For the water pump, timing belt, tensioner, and idler should I be going with Toyota parts or will these ebay specials be good?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWA:IT&ih=012
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...141374523&rd=1
#5
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Thanks guys. I have the head gasket set and bolts coming from engbldr.
For the water pump, timing belt, tensioner, and idler should I be going with Toyota parts or will these ebay specials be good?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWA:IT&ih=012
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...141374523&rd=1
For the water pump, timing belt, tensioner, and idler should I be going with Toyota parts or will these ebay specials be good?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWA:IT&ih=012
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...141374523&rd=1
#6
There are some low quality parts on Ebay so be careful. Engine Builder is good and I recommend his stuff and advice. USE PAPER TOWELS OR AIR TO REMOVE THE OIL FROM EVERY HEAD BOLT HOLE IN THE BLOCK. If not, you can get a false torque and be replacing head gaskets again real soon. I would send the heads to the shop. #6 valves will be cooked and most all of your exhause valves will be severely pitted. Label every line removed. Don't be in a hurry. Very unfriendly and PITA engine to work on. Get several cans of PB blaster and soak all bolts for a day before starting job.
My $0.02
My $0.02
#7
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Thanks for the tips SEAIRESCUE. I do plan on sending the head to a shop. As for the valves, is the standard procedure to send them out to be inspected/adjusted or should they be replaced?
Rune did you order your Toyota parts online or did you get them from the local dealer? My local dealership tends to charge on the high side.
Rune did you order your Toyota parts online or did you get them from the local dealer? My local dealership tends to charge on the high side.
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#8
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Thanks for the tips SEAIRESCUE. I do plan on sending the head to a shop. As for the valves, is the standard procedure to send them out to be inspected/adjusted or should they be replaced?
Rune did you order your Toyota parts online or did you get them from the local dealer? My local dealership tends to charge on the high side.
Rune did you order your Toyota parts online or did you get them from the local dealer? My local dealership tends to charge on the high side.
#9
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The knock sensor is somewhat expensive to replace. I did not replace mine and it seems to work just fine at 210K miles. As I broke my brittle plastic knock sensor wire connector locking clip.. I did replace just the wire.
In additons to Blurr's good suggestion...
Consider replacing your valve guide seals if you're using much oil between changes. You'd have to take your cams and valve lifters out to do this, but once you've taken the first valve out, the rest are easy repeats. I had been using some oil prior to replacing my headgasket and having my valves done including new seals. I believe that the new seals are what corrected the oil consumption.
Replace all the nuts to your exhaust manifold, EGR connection to the manifold and the PAIR Reed valve connection to the manifold. Use quality parts. Consider replacing the mating studs as well.
In additons to Blurr's good suggestion...
Consider replacing your valve guide seals if you're using much oil between changes. You'd have to take your cams and valve lifters out to do this, but once you've taken the first valve out, the rest are easy repeats. I had been using some oil prior to replacing my headgasket and having my valves done including new seals. I believe that the new seals are what corrected the oil consumption.
Replace all the nuts to your exhaust manifold, EGR connection to the manifold and the PAIR Reed valve connection to the manifold. Use quality parts. Consider replacing the mating studs as well.
The camshafts have to come out to replace the HG's, as you can't get the heads off without removing the cams.
I would use Engnbldrs Top end kit and then I would use one of the venders on this site for REAL Toyota parts. I would also say that the KS does not need to be replaced but some of the factory techs that post on this site have told us that they have seen an unusually high number os KS's go bad after reinstalling the top end - That said, I replaced mine(106k).
I would really consider putting headers on it. They do make it sound a bit stronger and I am sure they gain a little power, as well as move the heat away from the #6 cylineder - That said, I am having some concerns about the headers being so close to the fuel lines(about 1/4") and I am getting ready to relocate the fuel lines on mine.
other things to consider would be ::
o-ring for the distributor
rebuild kit for your oil cooler
fluch your radiator
fuel injector o-rings and/or grommets that sit on the lower intake
I would def get the fuel rail/ cold start banjo orings
I got a box of factory oil filters for 26 bucks when I made my order(2.60 each is a great deal)
That is what I can think of for now, but skim my HG thread for more -- I dont think I put an original part back in my motor when I did it -- LOL
Katie
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I would like to replace all the exhaust manifold nuts on my rebuild too - where do you buy/order these nuts from? From dealership?
Also - what/where are the 'crush washers' for the fuel system?
Thanks
Also - what/where are the 'crush washers' for the fuel system?
Thanks
#12
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when you look at the two fuel rails(that hold the injectors) look at the front and rear of the rails and you will see a hard line connecting the 2(1 on each end) with a banjo bolt on either side(so a total of 4 banjo's). Now each banjo bolt has 2 crush washers on them for a total of eight.
and then you have the incoming fuel line in the middle of the passenger side rail that needs 2 more washers.
and then if you want to do all of them, you can do the cold start injector which is another 2
So all told, there are 12 washers that you need.
and then you have the incoming fuel line in the middle of the passenger side rail that needs 2 more washers.
and then if you want to do all of them, you can do the cold start injector which is another 2
So all told, there are 12 washers that you need.
#13
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user TNRabbit PM'd me the list of part numbers for the crush washers that need to be replaced when taking it all apart:
Gasket: 90430-12026 (10)
Gasket: 90430-08012 (2)
Gasket: 90430-18028 (2)
the only washers not included in this are the ones for the cold start injector, you'll need two for the banjo fitting.
hope this helps!
Gasket: 90430-12026 (10)
Gasket: 90430-08012 (2)
Gasket: 90430-18028 (2)
the only washers not included in this are the ones for the cold start injector, you'll need two for the banjo fitting.
hope this helps!
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