Nuyota

I have a 1987 4runner sr5 22rtec with the auto tranny and the flex plate cracked yesterday. This is a kind of sort of common issue it seems with the auto tranny 4runners. I already had it replaced before maybe 5 years ago and maybe 15,000 miles. I am aware that it has do be put together correctly by the book for everything to line up properly. I'm gonna have an experienced tranny shop do the work, just wanted to check my info to see if anybody has any suggestions.

Last time I used an aftermarket flexplate, this time I think I'm gonna go oem (price difference is around $125 vs. $240), the two little spacer shims come with it. Think it will make a difference?
I was thinking about replacing the flexplate bolts too, anything else I should replace while I'm in there?
I have a rebuilt starter that has been in there for about 8 years. (I'm wondering if that might cause excessive stress on the flexplate) Should I replace the starter too?
The whole tranny and transfer case has to be removed to do the work. Gonna have them pull the pan and do a tranny service. Are there any upgrades like better torque converter I can do or any other services?
Let me know if you have any other suggestions. Other than the FSM the best thread I seem to have found with info about this issue was here under the title "1997 4runner 3.4 auto flex plate nightmare"

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

there are companies that can build you a custom torque converter, but for the money, why? id suggest getting a trans go shift improver kit installed while its out of the truck. flywheel bolts should be fine since they arent TTY. MAKE SURE THEY INSTALL THE FLEXPLATE CORRECTLY. I literally just installed mine backwards and now i have to pull the transmission out. also might think of a B&M or Hayden Trans Cooler. Help the trans last as long as possible. As for the starter, it should be fine. that SHOULDNT be causing cracks. Ive heard that these flex plates are just thin. Other than that, maybe replace the trans/transfer case mounts while youre there. you know, full service stuff. And have it filled with a good fluid. Im going to be using Redline synthetic. Its pricey, but nothing but good reviews and it will compliment the other upgrades well.

Nuyota

Thank you very much for the info. I know about cars and engines and turbos and suspension and stuff but nothing about 4x4 and auto trannys, that’s why I was gonna pay professional to do it. I do not want to spend lots of money for a torque converter, I’m not gonna be boosting it that much more than stock. I searched for the transgo kit, is it a340h for a 1987 4runner 22rtec? Happen to know a source or part number for those transfer case mounts? I like the idea of a tranny oil cooler, at the least I can get the connections in place. Are there stock places to put fittings for in and out or do you have to tap into the pan or something? Funny you mention the fluid as I had just drained and filled the tranny with synthetic, but I’m not gonna try to re-use it. In some older auto tranny cars switching to synthetic can cause issues or leaks do you think that is an issue with toyotas? I appreciate the help.

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

Dont boost more than stock. the ECU cant compensate. 1-8 PSI MAX unless you go standalone FMU.
Only 1 kit for all the A340 toyota transmissions. - http://www.transgo.com/products.php?category_id=149&parent_id=45&product_ id=254
B&M Trans Cooler. You put it in line after the stock trans cooler. - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-70264?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-b-m&gclid=CkUKEQjw2fLGBRDopP-vg7PLgvsBEiwAUOnIXMhXRLdn_-cSyMAGQIHcC_eG2zwYSrIvzLSYd-f7IWHNhuROh1vtmhoCER4QAvD_BwE
Talk to your local Toyota Dealership Parts Department for the mounts.
I have never heard of trans issues when switching to synthetic, but maybe google that or ask your trans guy.

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

would also help if your posted where youre from so maybe local guys could help you out more. also, go into yotatech.com/f199/ and make a build thread. post up pictures and keep yourself a log of everything youve done. and plan on doing.

Nuyota

Thanks for the help space. I'm just about ready to get the truck towed to the shop. I got a new oem flex plate # 32101-20050. Inside the package there was a diagram and note referring to two guide pins on the back of the engine. I talked to my dealership and they could not find any guide pins for the bellhousing. The FSM only refers to the torque converter guide pins and nothing else, anybody know exactly what parts are specific to aligbnment and balancing when putting the flexplate, torque converter and tranny together? They show two guide pins for the torque converter, 6 bolts for the flexplate, and 1 bolt plus 5 bolts for the torque converter. I believe the 1 single bolt is the one that seats differently for alignment. Should I replace all this hardware just for good measure? It would add about $100 so I think I might as well while I'm in there.

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

FWIW, i reused my torque converter bolts. they didnt have the 1 different bolt. the only reason that is there is so you dont have to torque everything twice. its like a marker of where you started. as far as alignment pins, i dont recall there being any on my runner. the flex plate can go on forward, backwards, sideways, basically any way you want. but i suggest putting it on correctly. saves having to remove the trans later.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

There are two dowel pins that go between the engine and bellhousing. They align the engine and trans, and hold the dust cover iirc.

Make sure you have the two "stiffener brackets" that attach to the side of the engine. That the line pressure cable that attaches to the throttle linkage from the transmission is properly adjusted if it is pulled to right you get really harsh downshifts. You also might want to start putting the transmission into power mode verses normal mode with the button on the console, this will make it shift about 500 rpm later and not be as rough on the flex plate.

Nuyota

Yeah I got as much new hardware as I could. There are two guide pins that go on the torque converter, 6 outer bolts, and 5/1 inner bolts. There is one different bolt that seats differently than the other 5. The outer oem spacer is still available, but the inner is not. Those are not wear items so as long as they are present it's fine. FYI for all new oem parts that I mentioned it cost me approximately $325 total. The shop got it all together but a new issue was discovered regarding the TV/kick down cable. I don't have eyes on it but apparently it goes from throttle body actuator arm down to tranny and affects fluid pressure. It is no longer available new. If anybody has one for sale or knows how to fix it please let me know. Thanks.

Nuyota

Oh yeah, and apparently the issue regarding why the flexplate cracked again is because the "nipple" on the torque converter broke off, so I got a replacement torque converter. This is all word of mouth from the shop, haven't gone in and looked at anything.

Nuyota

I looked into it and the part I need is tranny kick down or detent cable. Nothing is available OEM or aftermarket. I still can't find pics of the actual part but can I use one from another model with same length?

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

www.car-part.com

search there. call around to some wrecking yards.

Nuyota

Thanks. I searched that link and didn't find the specific part but got some yard names I can call and check. I already searched around my area on craigslist and the local truck yards with no luck. The one thing I would like to confirm is if this cable is specific to only 22rtec with auto tranny or if it the same for all first gen trucks and 4runner with auto tranny. Pretty sure I recall that the auto tranny in the sr5 4runner with 22rtec is specific for that and different from the NA models.

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

no. the auto is the same as the 22re and 3vz trucks. just different bellhousings. the cable should be the same for all 22re models through 89, and maybe even 95.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

The cable length is probably different due to were the throttle body sits.

Try a Toyota specific salvage yard Like yotajims in Denver. Or fab your own, have the mechanic use a generic type custom cable, or a bike shop can hook you up either with a custom control cable or vendor.

Nuyota

So got a chance to check out the issue and the outer sleeving cracked off at the metal collar by the throttle body. It is jury rigged temporarily to work but I like to do things right so definitely want to find a replacement. The shop will do the work to replace the cable at no additional charge, and they have exhausted their options, so that's why I'm reaching out to the forums. I'm sure I could find a shop that could make one but since I don't have one in hand it might be hard to make it to exact same specs. Any thoughts?