Engine Miss, dealer gave up on it...
10-26-2006, 05:56 PM
#21
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Check the timing on it... Mine was doing it and I checked the belt and it was way off only because the the pulley bolt became a little loose... Just my .02
10-26-2006, 08:58 PM
#23
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I have the same issue. I have replaced the sparkplug wires twice, plugs, cap and rotor, tps (and set it twice), plugged of the hose to the egr, checked the timing and it was perfect, and bought a k&n filter. It actually seems if I am giving it slight gas and I hit a bump... the truck gives slight bucking. With the roads this far north they are all real bumpy so it's hard to say. I know my transfer case oil seal is leaking. I am getting to wonder if it's not something in the drive line and not the engine. My engine has never sounded better or more power when I really step on it. Please if anyone knows a solution or has had this problem please help.
Last edited by mrpenaltybox; 10-26-2006 at 09:06 PM.
10-27-2006, 08:04 AM
#25
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timing and compression are fine, I have went over every single vacuum hose are they are not dryrotted or burnt anywhere, I will to clean the IAC as soon as the battery finished charging, I forgot to mention it also has something draining the battery down with the key off and out of the ignition 
10-27-2006, 09:30 AM
#27
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When I had my 3.O, I removed the plenum to replace a leaky injector. While apart, I replaced the pcv valve & hose, cleaned the plenum, cleaned the throttle body. After that, it ran much smoother and quieter.
Mine also decided to drain the battery; it was the brake lights staying on continously. I forget what fixed it though.
Mine also decided to drain the battery; it was the brake lights staying on continously. I forget what fixed it though.
10-27-2006, 09:56 AM
#28
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Ok got the battery drain problem fixed, pulled the neg cable, clipped my test light to a good bolt for ground hit the other end to the neg cable and it lit up so I knew I had a drain somewhere, started pulling fuses when I pulled the 15 amp EFI fuse the light went off, put it back in it came back on, I wiggle the EFI relay and it went off again so I pulled the relay, used the sharp end of my test light to tighted where it plugs in and no more power drain. So with that behind me I sprayed and cleaned the IAC and took her for a test drive, there is still a miss in it somewhere....
10-27-2006, 10:13 AM
#29
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I have a 92 4runner V6, It havs a miss/stumble/sputter at low rpms especially under a slight load. Dealer replaced coil, plugs, wires, TPS, fuel filter, fuel pump and it is still there. It is not throwing codes and the service MGR basically told me without throwing alot more money at it he couldn't fix it because the techs don't know what it is....HELP!!!
This would also explain the "stumble" at low rpm's, slight load. I'm assuming it does not miss when you are under normal acceleration, after the original stumble point is passed, right?
10-27-2006, 10:28 AM
#30
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If the rpm's at idle after warmup are around 500, you should consider the TPS. That is the rpm the ECU shuts you down to, if your TPS is not showing an idle position to the ECU. It's counterintuitive, but accurate.
This would also explain the "stumble" at low rpm's, slight load. I'm assuming it does not miss when you are under normal acceleration, after the original stumble point is passed, right?
This would also explain the "stumble" at low rpm's, slight load. I'm assuming it does not miss when you are under normal acceleration, after the original stumble point is passed, right?
10-27-2006, 05:58 PM
#31
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I checked all of mine as well, and found no holes, or cracks, but they can collapse if they are old and the vacuum is too much for them. They can also be clogged or full of liquids, like oil, which isn't so good for rubber. Mine wear easy to remove in some places, and some were stuck fast so I was thinking the loose ones were leaking. I just replaced them out of desperation, and it made a big difference.
10-27-2006, 09:58 PM
#32
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If you did everything for a tune-up.You might want to check into the sensors.My wife's Camry got the major tune-up only to change the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.I also changed the two Oxygen Sensors at 134,000 miles.So far the power is back.
10-28-2006, 11:22 AM
#35
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Random Rant: It kills me how so few people know the person(s) that work on their vehicles by name or know anything about them. What other thing that you possess is as important as the safety and proper function of your vehicle?
My service manager probably hates to see me coming, but I dang sure get my vehicle fixed properly when I take it to the dealer. 
And knowing my mechanic by face/name has been very beneficial many times and I do not mind paying for excellent service.WOW. I wish I had one customer a week who thought and felt this way. Usually I get a lot of them that "think" they know about cars. Those are the worst, they nickel and dime you to death and don't understand that all the mechanic wants is to put out good work. It really makes my day when I get a customer who actually knows a little about their vehicle and wants it CORRECT not just cheap. I hate it when people skimp on parts and then complain about the quality of the work.
About the hose, replace them if they are old. I have had problems with various vehicles over the years and can tell you from personal experience they can collapse a LOT and severely restrict or block themselves.
Last edited by rezrunner92; 10-28-2006 at 11:26 AM.
10-28-2006, 11:35 AM
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recently i got my 4runner back on the road. it had been running crappily for a couple of months. its a second vehicle and isn't driven much. i replaced the cap, rotor and looked at the plugs. they were fine looking. after all of that it still ran crappy so i replaced teh plugs and it ran great after that.
10-30-2006, 08:44 PM
#37
I know most of the Vacuum hoses were checked, What condition is the ISR tubing and connectors all the way?, Evev to the reedvalve ISR canister.
Does the VAFM move easy?
Are the VSV's (relays on the passenger fender, Blue, green and red) clean and working right.
I know this gets missed alot but there are 2 larger vacuum hoses going from the plenuum to the powerstering pump, Make sure those are not warn through at the fender area and cracked on the ends at the PS pump.
Does the VAFM move easy?
Are the VSV's (relays on the passenger fender, Blue, green and red) clean and working right.
I know this gets missed alot but there are 2 larger vacuum hoses going from the plenuum to the powerstering pump, Make sure those are not warn through at the fender area and cracked on the ends at the PS pump.
11-03-2006, 07:52 PM
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Mine was doing the same thing, after I replaced the air filter and cleaned all the air intake hoses. I put the hoses back on at the throttle body and at the air filter housing. Started it up and it was running like you described.
So I rechecked everything and noticed that the air intake hose at the throttle body was kinked at the bottom (6 o'clock) position and was allowing in more air than usual. I pulled it back off and made sure it went on correctly and that fixed the problem.
Good luck.
So I rechecked everything and noticed that the air intake hose at the throttle body was kinked at the bottom (6 o'clock) position and was allowing in more air than usual. I pulled it back off and made sure it went on correctly and that fixed the problem.
Good luck.
