LookingforMyToyota

Here is the bolt head.

Lumpy

That there my friend is what we here call a mess!!!

mt_goat

Yeah that's pretty rounded.

LookingforMyToyota

lol, so those sockets are metrinch sockets? should i buy a 18mm or 19mm. If i get a 8 foot pipe to break it off, would shoving a wood block in the crank shaft be the best way to stop the engine from moving? The clutch will not hold it.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

This is what I did. Take a ~24" piece of wood(just cut a 2x4 down the middle or a piece of pipe...something), jam it between the brake pedal and the hump in the floor board right where the front seat mount bolts are. NOW you have ALL four wheels LOCKED. Put your tranny in 5th gear. Now, like was mentioned either hammer a smaller socket onto the bolt or weld something on there and use a LONG length of pipe with a breaker bar or ratchet. I actually used my old exhuast tubing as the lever arm...

Lumpy

^^2X wow you sound all smart an nat...

LookingforMyToyota

when I am reinstalling the new one should i put on some anti seize compound before i torque to 116 ft lbs? I dont think I will be using loctite after going through this. any body want to share how they reinstall these?

mt_goat

I think that's too rounded now for even Metrinch sockets. That's the problem with using air tools, it must have spun 50 revs before the guy stopped it.

Is that a big flange on the bolt head or a big washer under it?

Here's some ideas on how to get leverage on the crank bolt, on an engine stand:

snobdds

The delear bolt came with some green stuff on the threads, I assume was some loctite type stuff. I actually took that off and put some antisieze on the surface of the washer. Like I said before, that's a spring washer and that is what is actually holding the bolt on so tight. The threads really are not the problem here. If I have to do this again, I don't want to struggle like I did my last time.

mt_goat

I'd use blue Loctite or anti seize. Your's is probably rusted on there.

snobdds

Mt. Goat

It is a big flange on the bolt, I call it a washer for lack of a better term...untill now.

That flange must be 1/4 inch thick.

mt_goat

I think I'd try welding a 1/2" drive or bigger socket to that flange. Not sure what the heat might damage though. Worse case you might have to cut the bolt head off and drill the bolt out until a thin shell is left and use an easyout or knock the remainder out with a punch. The trick to that is start drilling as close to the center as possible (use a center punch) with a small bit and slowly work your way up in size.

LookingforMyToyota

I attached a photo, if the flange is whats really holding the bolt on, can i use my sawzall to cut behind the second pulley, through the bolt and then use a puller to pull off the last pulley and then use a pipe wrench to remove whats left of the bolt? does this sound like i would create a much bigger problem then I allready have?

LookingforMyToyota

Is the metal going to destroy my metal sawzall blades?

Lumpy

That does not sound like a good plan to me...but what do I know?

LookingforMyToyota

lol, well im sure you know more than me so i will avoid that i suppose

Lumpy

Just cuz I have an angry flower does not mean I know more than you!!!

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

You could try drill the head of the bolt off...

LookingforMyToyota

yeah, but your not the guy who rounded off his bolt head when he was redoing his timing chain

Matt16

My best suggestion would be to drill a hole down the centre of the maybe 1/4" then weld another head on the bolt removing the centre of the bolt might relieve some pressure between then crank and bolt. The heat from welding will also help free it up. I haven't tried drilling out the centre before as I haven't needed too, research that first.