Chassis Swap - Progress Thread *56k warning
#41
Registered User
thank you, ive been thinking my ideas for my frame swap in and out for weeks, and ive finally figured the steps im gonna take, the only thing that has me stumped is the brake lines, but ill probably have to put new ones in anyway. my truck has the solid axle, so that should be esier then ifs. im goin to lift my engine and tranny up at the same time as the cab to try and prevent problems and confusion. i hope im not gonna bite of more then i can chew lol
#42
Registered User
sorry to post on an old thread, but im just curious, could you have just pulled the engine/tranny/t-case as a whole, or is there a reason you seperated them?
#43
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Join Date: Jul 2008
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An engine leveler (requires even MORE lift) will also let you angle the dangle, get it up to the rad support and un-dangle the angle so you don't have to clear the lowest point, you just level it out and take it out level.
Plus it helps to be able to lower the truck. If you take the rims and tires off, it'll lower to the brake rotor which helps A LOT.
It also helps if you remove the half diff.
Dang Cruisers have a bolt-on front clip, with an engine escape hatch...
You just remove the rad and move or remove the AC condenser, unbolt the trap door and you don't have to clear the top of the rad support anymore...
Should be easy to mod a truck to that with a spare top rad support.
Last edited by tried4x2signN; 01-13-2011 at 07:10 PM.
#44
Registered User
Yes. It's just heavier and you need to lift it really, really, high... (Mucho dangerous too)
An engine leveler (requires even MORE lift) will also let you angle the dangle, get it up to the rad support and un-dangle the angle so you don't have to clear the lowest point, you just level it out and take it out level.
Plus it helps to be able to lower the truck. If you take the rims and tires off, it'll lower to the brake rotor which helps A LOT.
It also helps if you remove the half diff.
An engine leveler (requires even MORE lift) will also let you angle the dangle, get it up to the rad support and un-dangle the angle so you don't have to clear the lowest point, you just level it out and take it out level.
Plus it helps to be able to lower the truck. If you take the rims and tires off, it'll lower to the brake rotor which helps A LOT.
It also helps if you remove the half diff.
Nonsense.
I've pulled whole engines and transmissions out at a time.
You don't have to lift it major high, maybe an extra 4", and then you use a ratch strap or something from a top point off the jack, to the back of the trans to lift the back of the trans over the front core support..
I did this on an 81 with a 4" lift and it was fine when we pulled the whole engine/trans out. In fact, i recall it being EXTREMELY fast to do it this way. Easily seperated the engine and trans, and then easily put the engine on the stand for cleaning..
Didnt even lower the truck.
#45
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Location: Nashville TN. I can help you if you're close BUT NOBODY CAN HELP YOU IF YOU DON'T FILL YOUR LOCATION IN!
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Yeah, you only really have to lift it to the balance point...
But you have to have a way of balancing it b/c that's a lot to sit on the rad support to adjust...
I can remove a 22R from a truck with a chain and w/o removing the hood...
With an engine leveler on it, forget it. Hood has to come off.
4 inches? At least...
Hence the "vary dangerous" and me not recommending it...
ahhhh.... You were prolly outside or in a high roof area...
The roof in my shop is almost head high... I guess 6 or 7 feet...
Last edited by tried4x2signN; 01-13-2011 at 07:44 PM.
#47
Registered User
Thread Starter
Haha old thread indeed. I chose to separate because it was safer and easier. Our 2wd I pulled Eng and tran as one.
To each their own method. I still have all my fingers.
To each their own method. I still have all my fingers.
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